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a. Mclean. 



A Circuit of the Globe 



A SERIES OF LETTERS OF TRAVEL ACROSS 
THE AMERICAN CONTINENT, THROUGH THE 
HAWAIIAN REPUBLIC, JAPAN, CHINA, THE 
STRAITS SETTLEMENTS, BURMA, INDIA, 
CEYLON, AUSTRALIA, EGYPT, PALESTINE, 
SYRIA, TURKEY, GREECE, ITALY, SWITZER- 
LAND, GERMANY, SCANDINAVIA, FRANCE 
AND ENGLAND. 



by a. "Mclean, 

Corresponding Secretary of the Foreign Christian Missionary Society. 



WITH AN INTRODUCTION 

BY J. H. GARRISON, 

Editor of the Christian - Evangelist. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



JAN 171! 



ST. LOUIS: 
CHRISTIAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. 

1897. 




•^ter of Co?- 



: 



\*%f\%- ^ I 



2123 



Copyrighted, 1897, 

BY 

CHRISTIAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. 



tfl 



,|A 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



A. McLean, 


Frontispiece 


' 


Facing page 


Arnold, T. J., 




169 






240 


Arab School, an, 




309 


Armenian School in Constantinople, 


321 


Armenian Patriarch, 




329 


Armenian Catholicos, 




341 


Armenian Patriarch, 




341 


Bentley, "W. P., and Family, 


Shang- 




hai, China, 




152 


Boys' School in Chu Cheo, 


China, 


165 


Butehart, Dr., 




169 


Bungalow in Hurda, India, 




197 


Beggars in Hurda, India, 




197 


Bungalow, in Mungeli, India, 




205 


Bungalow in Bin a, India, 




229 


Burgess, Miss Mattie, Bina, 


India, 


233 






240 


Boyd, Miss, 




240 


Bungalow in Mahoba, India, 




244 


Boys' School in Bilaspur, Indi 


a^_ . 


248 


Benares, India, 




265 


Bardsley, John, . 




289 


Bardsley, Mrs. John, 




289 


Burford, Wm., 




289 


Brooks, J. A., London, Eng., 




365 


Bates, T. H., Cheltenham, 


Eng., 


365 


Black, H. M., Liverpool, Eng 


, 


365 


Biddle, Dr. H. N., . 




368 


Class in English, Tokyo, 


Japan, 


80 


Christians and Missionaries 


in To- 




kyo, Japan, 


. 


89 


Chinese Mandarin, 




121 


Chinese Pagoda, 




128 


Chinese Priest Begging, 




128 


Chinese Gambling, 




176 


Coffman, G. W., Damoh, Indi 


a, 


253 


Colbourne, J., 




289 


Coliseum, The, 




352 


Durand, Dr. C. S., 




200 


Davies, J. A., 




277 


Davies, Mrs. J. A., 




277 


Dunn, F. G., . 




289 


Dancing Dervishes, 




305 



Facing page 

Devoid, Niels, .... 356 

Ewers, D. A., . . . . 289 

Four Generations in China, . . 185 

Frost, Miss Adelaide G., . ■ . 209 
Farrar, Miss Bessie, . . .209 

Franklin, Miss Stella, . . 212 

Franklin, Miss Josepha, . . 212 
First Church in Honolulu, Sandwich 

Islands, . . . . 216 

Faris, E. E., 368 

Garvin, T. D., . . . . 33 

Garst, C. E., 57 

Garst, Mrs., and School, Tokyo, 

Japan, .... 65 
Guy's, Mrs., Charity School, Tokyo, 

Japan, 113 

Garrett, Mrs. Frank, . . -. 136 
Garrett, Frank, . . . .136 

Graybiel, Miss Mary, . . . 209 

Girls' Orphanage, Bilaspur, India, 221 

Girls' School in Bilaspur, India, 221 

Gordon, E. M., Mungeli, India, . 225 

Gordon, Dr. Anna M„ Mungeli, India, 225 

Great Mosque, the, Delhi, India, 265 

Gore, T. J., .... 277 

Greek Patriarch, .... 341 

Gow, L. H., Southampton, Eng., 365 

Hearnden, Mrs. E. P., . . 136 

Hong-Kong, . . . . . 145 

Hearnden, E. P., . . . 169 

Hunt, W. E., 169 

Hunt, Mrs., .... 169 

Hospital in Bilaspur, India, . . 229 
Hoick, Dr., and Family, Copenhagen, 

Denmark, . . . . 361 
Hawk, Jeu, and Family, Portland, 

Ore., .233 

Indian Prince, an, . . . 257 

Indian Maharajah, an, . . . 257 

Johnson, Miss Kate, Tokyo, Japan, 97 

Judson, Miss Hattie, . . . 200 

Jackson, Mrs. H. L., . . . 200 

Jerusalem, ..... 312 

Johnson, A., ..... 356 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Facing 
Jain Priest, .... 

Kelly, Mary, .... 
Kerr, Dr. J. O, Canton, China, 
Kinsey, Miss Ida, Bina, India, 
Kingsbury, Miss, 
King of Siam and Children, 
Kutub-Minar, Delhi, India, 
Kevorkian, Dr., Garabed, 
Li Hung Chang, ... 
Lyon, Miss, .... 
Lohr, Mrs., .... 
Lepers in Hurda, India, 
LeoXIIL, . . . . 
Larsen, K., 
Madden, Mr. and Mrs. M. B., 
Meigs, Mrs. F. E., . 
Memorial Hospital in Nankin, China, 
Macklin, Dr., Miss Daisy, Nankin, 

China, .... 

Mission Buildings in Nankin, China, 
Macklin, Dr., .... 
Molland, C. E., .... 

Meigs, F. E., 

Macklin, Mrs., .... 

McGavran, Mrs., 
McGavran, J. G., 
Mitchell, Ben, Bina, India, 
Mitchell, Mrs. Ben, Bina, India, 
Merrill, Dr., .... 

Miller, Dr. A. C. and Dr. Lillian B., 

Bilaspur, India, 
Mohammedan University, Cairo, 
Maori Warrior, .... 
Maori Chief, .... 
Maston, A. B., . 
Nilsen, Enid, .... 
Oldham, Miss, 
Oxer, Dr. Rose, 
Orphanage in Damoh, India, 
Pandita Ramabai, Poona, India, 
Preparing to Burn the Dead, 
Parsee Girls, . . . . . 
Pyramids, the, . 
Parthenon, the, 



page 
237 
136 
188 
233 
240 
269 
272 
345 
121 
169 
240 
261 
329 
356 
57 
136 
145 

152 
160 
169 
169 
169 
169 
212 
212 
233 
233 
240 

253 
305 
281 
281 
289 
356 
80 
209 
212 
188 
261 
269 
296 
352 



Facing 
Rioch, Miss, .... 

Robinson's, Sue A., Grave, Hurda, 



Railway in China, a, . 


176 


Rioch, Miss Mary, and Class of Girls, 




Tokyo, Japan, 


192 


Rambo, Mrs., .... 


212 


Rambo, W. E., . . 


212 


Rapkin, Geo., Margate, Eng., 


365 


Rankin, A. C, 


277 


Stileman, Lieut., 


33 


Stevens, Dr. Nina, .... 


57 


Stevens, E. S., . 


57 


Smith's, Josephine, Grave, 


104 


Smith's, Josephine,Memorial Chapel, 




Akita, Japan, 


104 


Saw, A. F. H., .... 


169 


Saw, Mrs., 


169 


School Chapel in Hurda, India, 


205 


Spradlin, Miss Alice, . 


209 


Selby, Isaac, 


277 


Suez Canal, .... 


296 


St. Peter's, Rome, .... 


312 


St. Sophia, Constantinople, 


' 321 


School in Constantinople, 


337 


Shishmanian, Mrs., 


345 


Shishmanian, G. N., 


345 


Stockford, Jesse, . . . 


365 


Taj Mahal, . . 


244r 


Thompson,. Miss Mary, 


200 


Temple in Southern India, . 


272 


Todd, E. M., Chester, Eng., 


365 


Verbeck, Dr., .... 


57 


Verco, Dr. Joseph, .... 


277 


Wirick, Miss, .... 


57 


Ware, James, ..... 


169 


Williams, E. T., . 


169 


Williams, Mrs., .... 


169 


Wharton, G. W., and his Helpers, 




India, .... 


216 


Water Carrier. .... 


237 




356 


Xavier, Francis, .... 


188 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 





PAGE 

7 


I. 


Across the Continent 


9 


II. 


A Plea foe Missions in America 


13 


III. 


From San Francisco to Honolulu 


17 


IV. 


The Evangelization of the Hawaiian Islands 


23 


V. 


The Hawaiian Islands 


29 


VI. 


" The Isles Shall Wait for His Law" 


38 


VII. 


From Honolulu to Yokohama 


43 


VIII. 




50 


IX. 


My First Sunday in Japan . 


56 


X. 


A Trip to the North of Japan 


63 


XI. 




75 


XII. 


Missionary Methods in Japan 


83 


XIII. 


The Work of the Disciples of Christ in Japan 


90 


XIV. 


Christianity in Japan 


96 


XV. 


Trampling on the Cross .... 


101 


XVI. 


Some Curious Things in Japan 


107 


XVII. 


From Tokyo to Kobe 


112 


XVIII. 




119 


XIX. 


A Glimpse of Shanghai .... 


124 


XX. 


From Shanghai to Nankin 


131 


XXI. 


Nankin and Round About .... 


137 


XXII. 


Chu Cheo and Lu Hoh . 


143 


XXIII. 


Hankow, Wuhu, Nankin and Shanghai 


148 


XXIV. 


Peking and the Great Wall and Return 


154 


XXV. 


From Shanghai to Hong Kong and Canton 


161 


XXVI. 


Christianity in China ..... 


166 


XXVII. 


The Work of the Disciples of Christ in China 


172 


£XVIIL 


Some Curious Things in China . . . 


179 



(5) 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 

XXIX. China and the Chinese .... 186 

XXX. From Hong Kong to Calcutta . . . 193 

XXXI. India and Her Peoples .... 201 

XXXII. Calcutta and Serampore . . . . . 207 

XXXIII. India and Christianity . . . . 212 

XXXIV. The Work of the Disciples of Christ in India 217 
XXXV. Benares ........ 228 

XXXVI. Cawnpore and Lucknow . . ' . . 232 

XXXVII. Delhi and Agra 236 

XXXVIII. Bombay, Poona and Nellore . . . 241 

XXXIX. From Madras to Colombo .... 245 

XL. Large Ingatherings in India . . . 249 

XLI. Things Indian 255 

XLII. From Ceylon to Australia .... 262 

XLIII. Adelaide 266 

XLIV. From Adelaide to Sydney .... 270 

XLV. The Victoria Missionary Conference . .275 

XL VI. A Brief Campaign in Melbourne and Vicinity 280 

XL VII. From Melbourne to the Ship . . . 284 

XLVIII. Concerning the Australian Churches . : 288 

XLIX. From Adelaide to Ismailia . . . ■ 292 

L. From Ismailia to Alexandria .... 298 

LI. From Alexandria to Jaffa .... 308 

LII. From Jaffa to Jerusalem and Eeturn . . 313 

LIII. Things Palestinian 323 

LIV. From Jaffa to Constantinople . . .328 

LV. Constantinople, Giol Dagh and Bardezag 332 

LVI. Missions in Turkey 336 

LVII. Constantinople and the Turks . . . 342 

LVIII. From Constantinople to Copenhagen . . 349 

LIX. In Scandinavia . . . . . . 354 

LX. From Cohenhagen to London . . . 359 

LXI. From London to Cincinnati . . . .364 

LXII. Some Impressions — Conclusion . . . 369 

Index . . . . . . . . . . 377 



INTRODUCTION. 



He who goes abroad to visit strange lands and peoples, and 
comes in contact with strange scenes, customs, laws and lan- 
guages, if he but have eyes to see and a mind to understand, 
can tell many things to interest and instruct those who are denied 
the privileges of such a journey. When the traveler who is to tell 
us the story of his travels is a man of cultivated mind, enriched by 
wide reading, and with a consecrated heart and life, who under- 
takes "A Circuit of the Globe," not from idle curiosity, but on a 
high and holy embassy, connected with the extension of Christ's 
kingdom in the world, and as the official representative of a great 
missionary society, his report of what he saw and heard, and his 
reflections thereon, possess a special and peculiar value. There are 
many globe-trotters in these days who go around the world without 
seeing or hearing anything that is of any great value to anybody. 
But this volume is the record of one who had been sent by his 
brethren to investigate the problem of missions in other lands, and 
especially to note the condition, progress and needs of our own 
missions in the Old World. 

It was at the national convention at Richmond, in 1894, that 
Prof. B. C. Deweese, at a proper place in the proceedings, pre- 
sented a preamble and resolutions setting forth Mr. McLean's long 
and faithful service to the society, his unstinted labors and sac- 
rifices to further its interests, his need of a rest, the encourage- 
ment that a visit from him would impart to our missionaries in 
foreign lands, and resolving that the society send him on a visit 
to our foreign mission stations, the details respecting time of 
departure, duration of tour, etc., to be left to his discretion after 
conference with the executive committee. 

This preamble and resolution were received by the Convention 
with a spontaneous applause that left no doubt as to the sentiment 

(7) 



8 INTRODUCTION 

of the delegates on the subject. It was unanimously adopted and 
in a few moments a large sum was raised to cover the expense of 
his journey. The journey was begun in the following August and 
occupied over a year. 

During the absence of Secretary McLean, the financial secre- 
tary, F. M. Rains, who had heartily forwarded the movement to 
send his associate around the world, cheerfully assumed the extra 
work which this arrangement involved, and carried it on with such 
energy and ability as to increase the receipts of the society in spite 
of the hard times. 

The readers of our various papers which published these letters, 
not only read them as they appeared, with the deepest interest, but 
they have demanded their publication in permanent form. This 
demand was anticipated by the publishers, however, who requested 
the Secretary to arm himself with a kodak and bring back some per- 
manent impressions of places and persons he might see in his travels. 
Many of these, with other pictures, appear as illustrations in the fol- 
lowing pages, and form an interesting feature of the book. The 
faces of the faithful missionaries and the buildings in which they 
live and carry on their work will serve to strengthen the links that 
bind these brave workers abroad to the churches at home in an 
indissoluble fellowship of sacrifice, of joy and of triumph. 

It can scarcely be doubted that the publication of this volume 
of Missionary Letters, written from the field while the author was 
in living contact with the work and its needs, and pulsing, as they 
do, with the mission spirit, will deepen the interest in the cause of 
missions among the churches, and thus help to hasten the subju- 
gation of the world to the reign of Jesus Christ our Lord. That it 
may accomplish this beneficent mission, while serving as a memorial 
to our faithful and beloved Secretary, when he has finished his use- 
ful labors on earth, will be the hope and the prayer of all who have 
followed him in his "Circuit of the Globe." 

J. H. Garrison. 

Rose Hill, St. Louis. 



A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 



i. 

ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 

At the Annual Convention of the Foreign Christian Missionary 
Society, held in Richmond, Va., in October, 1894, it was decided 
that I should make a circuit of the globe in the interest of world- 
wide missions. It was thought that I would learn much about the 
nature and needs of the work that I could never learn by cor- 
respondence; that I would cheer the hearts of the workers on the 
fields, and that I would return built up in mind and in body, and 
prepared for more efficient service. A handsome sum was raised 
to defray expenses. 

The tour mapped out is as follows: From Cincinnati to San 
Francisco; thence to Japan, by way of Honolulu; from Japan to 
China, and from China to India; from India to Australia; thence 
through the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea to Egypt; thence to 
Jaffa, Jerusalem and Beirut; thence to Cyprus, Smyrna, Constanti- 
nople, and other points in Turkey; thence to Athens, Corinth and 
Rome; thence across Europe to Copenhagen and several cities in 
Norway; thence to Hamburg, Cologne, Paris, London, Liverpool, 
New York, and home. I go to Australia because some of the 
churches there are co-operating with us in India. They support 
Miss Mary Thompson and two native helpers. This tour will 
occupy about a year, and will cost about $2,000. 

Before starting on this long journey good friends arranged 
several receptions. The first was in the Mt. Healthy Church, on 
the evening of July 2t, 1895. This is the church I served for ten 
years. The house was tastefully decorated. Brief and eloquent 
addresses were made, appropriate songs were sung, and earnest 
prayers were offered. The memories of that hour will go with me 
around the world; they will abide with me forever. Mt. Healthy 
is noted as the home of Alice and Phcebe Cary. Here they were 
born and educated, and here they did much of their best work. 



10 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

The trees they planted, the well from which they drank, the house 
in which they lived, are objects of interest to their innumerable 
admirers. At the edge of the village David S. Burnet had once a 
famous school for girls. There he and Benjamin Franklin lived 
and published The Reformer and The Christian Age. The Mt. 
Healthy Church is first and last and always a missionary church. 
The good people of this place have found by actual experience that 
there is that which scattereth and yet increaseth. The name of 
this church is known in every field and by every missionary. In the 
corner-stone of the building there is one thing, and only one, 
namely, a Bible. This church stands for Biblical Christianity. 
On the next Sunday evening the churches in and about Cincinnati 
abandoned their regular services. A thousand people assembled. 
Some came from quite a distance. The exercises throughout, the 
songs, the Scripture lesson, the prayers and the talks were pre- 
eminently missionary. The great commission was emphasized, the 
workers were tenderly and lovingly remembered, some of the diffi- 
culties and needs of the work set forth. No one went away with- 
out a better knowledge of missions and a deeper interest in the 
missionaries. Cincinnati has been intimately connected with our 
missionary work from the beginning. Here the American Chris- 
tian Missionary Society was organized. The Foreign Society was 
located here because Isaac Errett, W. T. Moore, W. S. Dickinson, 
Jacob Burnet, James Leslie and Dr. E. Williams lived here. 
Here, too, was the home of the Christian Standard. Its editor 
had been Corresponding Secretary of the American Society for four 
years. Nearly every number contained some missionary informa- 
tion. The editor made his appeals to the hearts and consciences of 
his readers, and his appeals were not in vain. On Monday H. M- 
Hickok gave a farewell banquet. He invited the leading spirits in 
our missionary societies and in our journalism and some personal 
friends to meet him at the Grand Hotel. Twenty guests sat down 
with him. After partaking of the good things provided, some 
admirable speeches were made. It was a delightful occasion. The 
spirit of the Lord was present. The cause of missions was helped 
by this banquet. 

On Wednesday morning a group of personal friends came down 
to the station to see me off. E. E. Faris, the bright young Texan, 
who goes to Africa as our pioneer, was my traveling companion that 
day. On reaching St. Louis we found a number of friends on the 
platform waiting for us. That night the churches gave up their 
prayer- meetings and came together to manifest their interest in 



ACROSS THE CONTINENT II 

world-wide missions. After an hour's service in the auditorium, 
we adjourned to the parlors for social intercourse and for refresh- 
ments. Nothing was left undone to make the stranger feel at home. 
To the Disciples of Christ St. Louis is an interesting city. Here 
the Christian-Evangelist is published. Here W. W. Dowling edits 
Our Young Folks and the Sunday-school supplies sent out by the 
Christian Publishing Company. Here is the Christian Orphans' 
Home. Here Mrs. J. C. Black, the superintendent of Children's 
Work in connection with the "Woman's Board, lives. Here O. A. 
Bartholomew carries on his work. In seven years he has built 
seven churches in St. Louis, and many others in different parts of 
the country. From this city, Dr. A. W. Hitt and Miss Sue A. 
Robinson went to India. 

The next morning I left St. Louis for Kansas City. E. S. and G. 
W. Muckley and Judge Clarke came down to the depot to meet me. 
They refreshed my spirit. I was hungry and they fed me. While 
talking about the work in that city and other places the time passed 
rapidly. Kansas City is the seat of the Missouri Board of Missions. 
Here, too, the Board of Church Extension has its principal place of 
business. Here G. W. Muckley has his home. From this city he 
goes out to inform the churches about the work and to bring back 
their contributions to its support. The next stop was made at Den- 
ver, the Queen City of the Plains. At its gates W. S. Priest was 
waiting to extend a cordial welcome. That night the churches, 
with their ministers, met in the South Broadway Temple to speak 
words of good cheer and to listen to a brief account of the progress 
of the work. J. W. Ingram, W. S. Priest, Judge Barnum and Mel- 
ville Putnam spoke for the churches and spoke hopefully and 
impressively. Denver has suffered greatly from the panic. Thou- 
sands are out of employment. Many of those who had saved 
something in other years have had to live on their earnings, and 
now have nothing. The churches are making heroic struggles to 
meet their obligations and to help in the regions beyond. With the 
return of better times the debts will be paid, new churches will be 
established, and thousands will be given to help the work in other 
fields. The hard times are not without their advantages. They 
consolidate the membership and drive them closer to God. Let the 
good men in Denver take heart and hope and hold on until the day 
dawns and the mists and shadows flee away. The night is far spent, 
the day is at hand. 

From Denver to Salt Lake City is a distance of seven hundred 
and sixteen miles. The Denver and Rio Grande Railway is the 



12 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

scenic line of the world. For several hours Pike's Peak is clearly 
seen in the distance. This giant lifts his snowy head over fourteen 
thousand feet above the level of the sea. There is no more mag- 
nificent scenery in the Alps or the Himalayas than in the Rocky 
Mountains. Denver is a mile above the sea. The highest point on 
the road is nearly a mile above Denver. The train is scheduled to 
make the distance between Denver and Salt Lake City in twenty- 
nine hours. B. F. Clay was on the platform waiting for me, and 
drove me to the parsonage, where Mrs. Clay and Master Sam 
repeated the welcome. That night I spoke to a large audience in 
the Endeavor Church. The building is convenient and beautiful. 
A ride of eight hundred and seventy-one miles through Utah, 
Nevada and California, brings the traveler to the city beside the 
Golden Gate. Galen Wood preaches in Ogden. J. E. Denton 
preaches in Sacramento. I understand that there is no church 
between these two cities on the Central Pacific Railway. In San 
Francisco I spent some time in the hospitable home of H. H. Luse. 
No missionary passes through San Francisco without being enter- 
tained by this family. E. W. Mathews, editor of the Pacific Chris- 
tian, went with me to Santa Cruz to attend the State meeting. No 
Secretary ever had a more royal welcome. Nothing was lacking to 
make my visit pleasant and effective. The large audience listened 
intently for an hour. At the close of the service they gave me the 
right hand of fellowship and sent me away with their prayers and 
good wishes. Nor was that all. At the suggestion of A. C. Smither, 
they made a generous offering toward the expenses of my long jour- 
ney. This was the culmination of a series of ovations, beginning in 
Boston and extending across the continent. This afternoon I go 
aboard the City of Peking and sail out through the Golden Gate 
toward Honolulu. Now, our Lord Jesus Christ himself and God 
our Father, who loved us and gave us eternal comfort and good 
hope through grace, comfort our hearts and establish us in every 
good word and work. 



n. 

A PLEA FOR MISSIONS IN AMERICA. 

Yeaks ago, so the story runs, a band of skeptics crossed the Mis- 
sissippi near where St. Louis now stands; they sang unclean songs; 
they drank wine and beer, and vowed that Jesus Christ should 
never cross that river. If one will start from St. Louis and go 
west till he reaches the Golden Gate, he will see and know that 
Jesus Christ has crossed the Mississippi. Or if he will go south 
through Arkansas and Texas and Arizona and New Mexico, or 
north through Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, Montana, Washington, 
he will see indubitable evidences all the way that our Lord is 
trusted and served in all this western country. On the crest of 
the Rockies and the Sierras, and in the fertile valleys between, 
wherever two or three are gathered together, there He is in the 
midst. Christian people are going everywhere; churches, schools, 
and Christian institutions of all kinds follow. No power can 
exclude Christ and the Gospel. Japan and China and India tried 
to do that, and failed. As well try to keep out the sunshine and 
the dew; as well try to keep out the sweet influences of spring 
and summer. Skeptics may join hearts and hands in such an 
attempt; He that sits in the heaven shall laugh. The West no 
less than the East belongs to Christ, and he shall have it. 

Let no one think that everything has been done. The fact is, 
there remaineth much land yet to be possessed. Here and there 
forts have been established, but the victory is far from being com- 
plete. The saloon is omnipresent. Beer cars are seen in every 
train. Gambling runs riot. Many who were active in the churches 
at home have lost their faith, and are in haste to get rich. What 
then? Those who have the truth must carry it everywhere, and fill 
all hearts and homes and institutions with its spirit. Everything 
opposed to Christ must give place, as the wolf and the bear give 
place to civilization. In order to do this, the churches must arouse 
themselves and put forth such efforts as have never been witnessed. 
For be it known that the powers of darkness are mustering and 
marshaling themselves for the conflict; they are entrenching them- 
selves in the great West. The strong man armed keeps his house 

13 



14 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and his goods; one stronger than he must come and bind the strong 
man and take away the armor wherein he trusted, and spoil his 
goods. This is a critical period in the history of the West, for it is 
a formative period. 

Great populations are pouring in. The nation gains more from 
immigration than from all her mines of gold and silver. Capable, 
energetic and ambitious men come here to better their condition. 
In 1835 there were not 5,000 white inhabitants in all the vast region 
between Lake Michigan and the Pacific. Now there are in this ter- 
ritory Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Minneapolis. In 1840 
Chicago had a population of 4,500; now it has 1,438,000. In 
1834 there were two log houses where Milwaukee now stands; the 
present population numbers 204,000. In 1842 a trading house was 
built on the site of St. Paul. A small community of whites and 
half-breeds engaged in barter with the Indians and trappers. In 
1850 St. Paul was in the wilderness; wild animals and Indians 
haunted the grounds about it. St. Paul has now 133,000 people 
within her borders, and Minneapolis has 164,000. In 1870 Duluth 
was laid out on speculation in the woods. Duluth is now "the 
zenith city of the unsalted seas," and has a population of 33,000. 
San Francisco in 1844 had a population of fifty souls; now she has 
300,000. Kansas City, Denver, Seattle, Tacoma and Portland have 
grown in the same way. The time to reach these immigrants is on 
their arrival. They are then free to listen to the plea we make. 
In ten years it will be tenfold more difficult to reach aud win them. 

"We hear of "the wild and woolly West." In a ride of two 
thousand miles I did not see one prairie dog, or one jackrabbit, or 
one coyote, and only a score or two of Indians. The West is 
neither wild nor woolly. The people are as intelligent and enter- 
prising as in the East. Some one said to Knowles Shaw that the 
people of the West were "the scum." He said they are like the 
scum that rises on milk. The papers of San Francisco, Salt Lake 
and Denver contain all the news found in the great dailies of 
Chicago and New York. San Francisco in many respects reminds 
one of Boston. The streets are wider, and are not suffering from 
curvature of the spine. But the schools, and, churches, and shops, 
and homes, and sidewalks, and street cars are not much, if any, 
behind those of "the Hub of the Universe." There is poverty and 
there is vice on the Pacific Coast, but these things are found on the 
Atlantic Seaboard as well. Preachers say it is harder to build up 
churches in the West than in the East. The spirit of the men who 
crossed the plains in 1849 is still here. The people want wealth, 



A PLEA FOR MISSIONS IN AMERICA 15 

and they want it at once. Solomon said, "If the axe is dull, one 
must put forth more strength." So if it is harder to make con- 
verts and build up self-supporting churches, we must work the 
harder. At Reno, Nevada, we saw a few Indians. They were 
dressed and acted like white folks. Some were smoking cigars or 
cigarettes, thus showing that they are bone of our bone and flesh of 
our flesh. Of the 300,000 Indians of the West, 66,000 pay taxes. 
The noble savage, so-called, is cultivating the arts of peace. He 
has been created anew in Christ Jesus. 

One who has not traveled over this country has only a faint con- 
ception of its extent and resources. Texas alone is considerably 
larger than the German Empire, California is larger than Turkey, 
Oregon is larger than England and Scotland and Wales. I have 
traveled from ocean to ocean, and from the lakes to the gulf. The 
more I travel the vaster the country appears. There is room 
in this magnificent domain for a thousand millions of people. 
Then our population will not be as dense as that of Britain. The 
Gospel must be carried into every city and hamlet of this broad 
land. Wherever the beer keg can go the Bible must go. If the 
Bible could go in advance and keep out the accursed thing forever 
it would be better. Wherever men go to mine gold or silver or 
copper, or to raise corn or wheat or fruit, or to engage in any form 
of work, there the ministers of the Gospel must go and preach the 
unsearchable riches of Christ. It will avail 'nothing that we have 
three-fourths of all the coal in the world within oar borders, that 
we have wide and fertile fields, that we raise more hogs and cattle 
than any other nation, that in manufactures and mechanical appli- 
ances we lead the world, that we are the richest of nations, if we 
are not a righteous people, and if our God is not the Lord. Let us 
know and remember that it is righteousness that exalteth a nation. 

We are well able to do the work which the Lord requires of us. 
We must plan and work on a larger scale than in former years. 
We must spend hundreds of thousands of dollars where we have 
been spending tens and fifties. There are mines in the Rocky 
Mountains with machinery that cost a million dollars. See what 
vast sums have been invested in railroads! Capitalists pour out 
money like water. They spend any amount in the sure and certain 
hope of profits in the years to come. We must go at this work as 
men go into great business ventures. We must capture the great 
cities. What has been done in Kansas City, in Des Moines, in St. 
Louis, can be done anywhere. It can be done in Chicago, in New 
York, in New Orleans, in Boston, in Cincinnati, in Indianapolis. 



16 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Greater triumphs can be won if we will do our whole duty. God 
says of each of these great centers of population, as he did of 
Corinth, "I have much people in this city." We cannot do the 
Lord's work without a very much larger expenditure of money and 
a much larger evangelistic staff than we have thus far dared to 
even dream about. In Salt Lake City our people were offered a lot 
in a most desirable section if they would erect a building upon it. 
They could not accept the offer. There are hundreds of such 
opportunities in the new and growing West. We ought to be 
ready to seize every one. We are playing at this work; we are 
trifling with a great trust. We need to hear the voice of God like 
a fire-bell at midnight, "Awake, thou that sleepest, and arise from 
the dead, and Christ shall give thee light." 

There is not only room for the Disciples of Christ, but there is 
urgent need of them. Our growth in Missouri shows this. The 
fact that we have increased in fifty years from almost nothing to 
130,000 amounts to a demonstration. The great churches in 
Mexico, Columbia, Sedalia, Warrensburg, Holden, Harrisonville, 
St. Joseph, Liberty, Lexington, Springfield, Kansas City, Topeka, 
Salina, Denver, Salt Lake City, Sacramento, Oakland, Los Angeles 
and San Francisco, could not have been called into existence if we 
had no vital truths for this generation. While recognizing all the 
good there is in other communions, we must hold to our conviction 
that in some important matters they are at sea in a fog. It is for 
us to publish the truth which God has revealed to us till all shall 
see it. It is high time for us to understand what God would have 
us do. We must make the spread of the Gospel of the glory of 
Christ our first and supreme concern. This is a time for heroic 
giving. It is a time for men to go out without purse or scrip or 
two coats, assured that God will supply their need according to his 
riches of glory. If we do this we shall have such a measure of 
prosperity at home as shall cause the scoffer to say, "God is in 
these people of a truth." The churches thus planted and watered 
will be missionary from the first, and will do their utmost to send 
the Gospel into all the ends of the earth. The Lord help us to see 
our duty and to perform it. 



III. 

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU. 

On the third of August, at three p. m., the City of Peking left her 
dock for Hong-Kong. She is to touch at Honolulu, Yokohama, 
and Nagasaki, on the way. Honolulu is 2,100 miles from San Fran- 
cisco; Yokohama is 3,478 from Honolulu. As we steamed down 
the Bay and saw the enormous docks and the number of ships going 
in all directions, and saw the crowded city stretching away for 
miles, it seemed incredible that half a century ago San Francisco 
was a village of fifty people living in log huts and bartering food 
and clothing for tallow, hides and horns. San Francisco is now one 
of the great cities of the world. What New York is to the East, 
that San Francisco is bound to be to the West. She must always 
be the chief port of entry to the commerce of the Pacific. In an 
hour and a half we were beyond the Golden Gate and the Seal 
Rocks. Here the pilot left us, and we felt that our voyage was 
fairly begun. Gradually the land faded from our sight. There 
was a tinge of sadness in this thought. It was like leaving home 
for the first time. America now leads all nations. What she is 
now is nothing compared with what she shall be. Her welfare 
means the welfare of the world. " Blessings brighten as they take 
their flight." So our country seems more and dearer as we leave 
it for a season. 

"Great God, we thank thee for this land, 
This bounteous birthland of the free ; 
Where peoples 'from afar may come 
And breathe the air of i liberty. 

"Still may her flowers untrampled spring, 
Her harvests wave, her cities rise ; 
And yet, till Time shall fold his wing, 
Remain earth's loveliest paradise." 

Before we left the dock a group of people sang "All Hail the 
Power of Jesus' Name" and "God be With You Till We Meet 
Again." It was plain that there were missionaries on board. 
Probably no ship leaves this port for the Orient without having 
some missionaries among her passengers. God is thrusting out 
young men and women of culture and consecration into his harvest. 

2 17 



18 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

As the spiritual life of the churches is deepened, workers will go 
out in ever-increasing numbers. H. H. Luse and Jeu Hawk came 
down to bid me farewell. The first represented the Occident; the 
second, the Orient. The first was born in Pennsylvania; came 
West and settled in Oregon, and afterwards removed to San Fran- 
cisco. Jeu Hawk was won to Christ by Miss Sue A. Robinson, one 
of our missionaries to India. He was educated in Drake, and now 
is in charge of the Chinese Mission in Portland. The San Fran- 
cisco workers were at Santa Cruz, else a large number would have 
been on the dock. I thought then of the great host of Disciples of 
Christ who are interested in this trip, and who assured me that 
they would pray for me, and I was comforted. May their prayers 
bring down blessings upon their own heads, like rain upon the 
mown grass and like the showers that water the earth. 

Our ship was built in 1874. She was a fast boat in her time. She 
makes three hundred and thirty-five miles a day, burning seventy 
tons of coal. The greyhounds of the Atlantic consume over four 
hundred tons and cover five hundred miles. The officers are 
Americans; the crew is made up of Chinese and Japanese. The 
officers are gentlemanly fellows. They give civil answers to 
proper questions. They take an interest in the passengers, and 
try to make them feel at ease. The chief steward, Mr. W. S. 
Chandler, was especially kind. I crossed the Atlantic twice, 
and found the bearing of the officers there very different. Civility 
adds much to one's comfort. On the train as we passed through 
Nevada, I asked a Pullman official how many large places there 
were between Ogden and Sacramento. He drew himself up and 
said with crushing force, " If I were to enumerate all the large 
places between Ogden and Sacramento, I would not have time for 
much else to-day." As there is not one large place between the 
points named, something I discovered after, it would not have taken 
his lordship long to give me the information I sought. As it was, I 
wilted and said no more. Not only this ship, but the entire fleet 
is manned with Orientals. One of the officers spoke of the crew in 
high praise. They are polite, sober, willing and efficient. 

We have few passengers, less than twenty in the cabin, and not 
over fifty in the steerage. This is more enjoyable to the passengers 
than profitable to the company. Our ship will carry a hundred 
cabin passengers and a thousand steerage. With a small list every 
one can have a state-room. At table one receives more attention. 
On deck there is ample space to walk and sit. The passengers are 
pleasant people. One is an officer in the German Army. One lives 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 19 

in Honolulu, and is full of information respecting the islands. Sev- 
eral represent large business houses. The missionaries interest me 
most. Three of these four are women. It is a significant fact that 
more women are offering than men. Robert Cust says we shall 
soon have to change Wellington's famous order and say, "Up 
ladies, and at them." Mrs. Nevius goes to Chefoo. She has been 
in China forty years. Her illustrious husband died recently. She 
is going back home. A medical missionary is going out for the first 
time. She goes to Chinkiang. One of the group has been in Japan 
six years. She and her parents had been traveling extensively in 
the East. She became interested in missions and remained in 
Japan. She is now on her way back after a year's furlough. An 
ordained minister is going to Amoy. They are the happiest people 
on board. Their faces shine. They have heard the joyful sound, 
" Jesus saves." They are going out to publish glad tidings. Their 
faces illustrate their message, and commend it to the sad-hearted 
peoples of the East. There is no suggestion of the ascetic or the 
Pharisee' about them. They are as full of mirth and as ready for 
any innocent games as any on board. The ladies wear no jewelry, 
dress very simply, and look remarkably attractive. Dr. Goodell,of 
the Turkish mission, was one of the happiest of men. His asso- 
ciate rebuked him for his mirth, and asked him if he expected to 
enter heaven laughing. He said he would rather enter heaven 
laughing than crying. He was incorrigible. There was no more to 
I)e said. Missionaries have obeyed the Lord's command, and they 
have entered into his joy. — There are some Chinese passengers in 
the cabin. The women wear bloomers and smoke cigarettes. Are 
these the harbingers of the coming woman? Their dress may be 
more comfortable, but to the eye of an amateur is less comely than 
the present style. There is one thing lacking in our list. There is 
not a bride on board. The captain states that he has had twenty- 
one in a single voyage. The raw material is here, but not the 
sweet, finished article. This is quite a loss. A bridal party on a 
train or on a boat is as good as a play. The fact that there should 
be a superabundance of brides on one voyage, and none on the next, 
constrains one to believe with John Calvin in total depravity. 

The Chinese passengers in the steerage are not without interest. 
They play cards and dice early and late. The Chinese are a race of 
gamblers. They stake their money as long as it lasts. When it is 
gone they stake themselves or their children. Rice is their princi- 
pal article of food. The way they shovel the rice into their mouths 
with their chopsticks is a marvel to the uninitiated. In addition to 



20 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

rice they eat dried fish, fresh and salt meat, and vegetables. They 
have a common bowl containing some liquid resembling vinegar. 
Into this they dip their meat or vegetables, as the disciples did at 
the last supper. This is to make their food palatable. Their diet 
does not seem very inviting, but it makes great, brawny and athletic 
fellows. There is no cabin passenger, notwithstanding all the 
savory food and all the delicacies served to him, that can compare 
with some of these Chinese in muscular development. So life has 
its compensations. The rich have more than heart can wish for, 
and dyspepsia besides. The poor have little, but they have good 
appetites and superb digestion. In point of comfort, the upper 
class has not much advantage over the lower. 

On board ship we have every comfort and every convenience that 
we could have on shore. The state-rooms are spacious, and are 
supplied with everything needed. They are lighted with electricity. 
Every day you can have a bath in salt water. Pow Sing will call you 
at any hour you may wish. The table is excellent. The bill of fare 
must have been designed for epicures. Meats and vegetables and 
fruits and milk are kept in huge ice-chests. Fowls and sheep are 
kept on deck waiting their doom. No one need go hungry. The 
first evening the chief steward explained the arrangement for 
meals. You can have coffee in your room when you wish it. 
Breakfast is served at half -past eight; tiffin at one; dinner at seven. 
If you should feel famished between breakfast and tifiin, or between 
tiffin and dinner, or before turning in for the night, you can have 
tea and cake and fruit. The cooks are artists. They would do 
credit to any hotel. The service cannot be excelled. The "boy," 
Ah Hee by name, is intelligent and obliging. In his soft slippers he 
moves as noiselessly and as swiftly as a cat. He anticipates your 
wish and hastens to supply it. He does not address you as "Sir" 
or as " Boss." He offers you the bill of fare, and inclines his ear. 

When the voyage began I thought I would get out of it all I 
could. I proposed to play high jinks at sea. The first morning I 
touched an electric button with my toe, and Ah Sam, a bright-faced 
Celestial, with a queue reaching down to his heels, appeared. I 
ordered coffee. In the twinkling of an eye it was before me. Hav- 
ing partaken, I turned over like a door on its hinges, and fell 
asleep. An hour later another Celestial appeared and announced 
that the bath was ready. I felt conscience-smitten at first, but soon 
became reconciled to it. The "boy" was paid for this service. 
Besides, he was so affable and acted as if he were receiving a favor 
rather than conferring one, that conscience soon ceased to smite. 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU 21 

After three or four days, however, I found that this arrangement 
was notj satisfactory. Heretofore, when urged to eat more than 
three times a day I have pleaded the statute of limitations. I found 
it expedient to return to the old order. Capacity for eating is 
like capacity for singing or speaking. It is a gift; it cannot be 
acquired. Coming down the Sierras a girl of some thirty sum- 
mers sat opposite me at the table. She began with a drink 
that to an innocent prohibitionist looked suspiciously like a 
cocktail. Then she had a bottle of Apollinaris water, then a 
pot of tea, meanwhile drinking several glasses of ice-water. She 
ordered and inclosed a breakfast such as would have satisfied Sam- 
son or Goliath, or both. She read while eating, to improve her mind. 
When she was done she wiped her tapering fingers and her rosy lips, 
and looked as if she had been sipping nectar and tasting ambrosia. 
An omnivorous girl amuses me. Such an appetite here would be 
a treasure. 

Life on a ship is a lazy life. There is nothing to do, and all day 
and all night in which to do it. Carlyle said that every man is as 
lazy as he dare be. Who has not found it so? The first few days 
one chafes a good deal. The demon of work still possesses hiim 
When Charles Lamb was retired on a pension he did not know what 
to do with himself. His desk and his soul had grown together. He 
wanted to be back again. So one feels for a time. I work eight 
hours a day, and am getting a reputation for industry. But eight 
hours compared with the hours I worked for twelve years are child's 
play. Sometimes I long to be back in the Mission Rooms, sharing 
in the work and in the joy. But my prophetic soul tells me that I 
shall soon feel like joining the society spoken of by Ian MacLaren, 
"The Amalgamated Sons of Rest — a society with conscientious 
objections to work between meals." We get no letters and no 
papers, we know nothing and care little about what is going on in 
the great world. This is a season for rest and for storing energy. 
After it is over one will feel like a race horse. He will enter upon 
his work rejoicing in it, as a strong man to run a race. 

Birds have followed us all the way. Where do they build their 
nests? How do they live? They sow not, neither do they reap, nor 
gather into barns; God feedeth them. He will care for us. We 
are as safe on sea as on shore. There are watchful eyes in every 
part of the ship day and night. If a fire should break out it can be 
extinguished. Twice a week there is fire practice. In case of a 
storm the ship would ride the waves like a duck. In case of a 



22 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

wreck there are boats enough to carry all on board. We lie down 
at night and sleep feeling as secure as if we were at home. 

In 1888 I crossed the Atlantic twice. The days and nights were 
cold. Passengers sat on deck wrapped in heavy rugs. They wore 
their winter clothing. We have had warm weather from the first. 
There has been no need of an overcoat or of a rug. One can sit 
on deck for hours and watch the play of the waves and listen to 
their music. Their glory and beauty remind one of the words, 
"The sea is his, and he made it." On the Atlantic you see ships 
every day. We have seen one only since we left. What does that 
mean? This, that the bulk of the commerce of the world belongs 
to Christian nations. As China and Japan receive the Gospel, the 
Pacific will be covered with ships as is the Atlantic. 

On Friday night we dropped anchor before Honolulu, and waited 
for the day. We have had a delightful passage. There has been 
no fog, no storm, and no sickness. On Monday the screw lost one 
of its blades. This accident broke up the monotony and was a 
positive refreshment. The captain and engineer decided to go on. 
By using all the sails we have made as good progress with three 
blades as otherwise we would have made with four. One passenger, 
evidently a son of Belial, insists that the accident was because of 
the psalm-singing before leaving the dock. Whatever the cause, 
we have lost no time and are nearing port with thankful hearts. 
God is good. He has given us a prosperous voyage. He has 
answered the prayer we offered when starting, "Keep us, Lord, 
for the ocean is so wide, and our boat is so small." Blessed be his 
glorious name forever, and let the whole earth be filled with his 
glory ! 



IV. 
THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

In 1809 a native of these Islands sat on the doorsteps of Yale 
College and wept. His name was Henry Obookiah. In a civil war 
his father and mother had been slain; he had been taken prisoner. 
Escaping, he made his way to New Haven. He thirsted for knowl- 
edge, and went to the college buildings hoping that his thirst might 
be slaked. Hope failing, he sat down and wept. A resident grad- 
uate found him and took him as a pupil. That autumn Samuel J- 
Mills visited New Haven to awaken an interest in missions. Oboo- 
kiah told him his story. "The people are very bad; they pray to 
gods made of wood." He longed to be able to read the Bible that 
he might go back and teach them to pray to God up in heaven. 
Mills wrote Gordon Hall, "What does this mean? Bro. Hall, do 
you understand it? Shall he be sent unsupported to reclaim his 
countrymen? Shall we not rather consider these Southern Islands 
a proper place for the establishment of a mission?" Other 
Hawaiian lads came to America, and after their conversion wished 
to go back and preach Christ to their own people. Obookiah did 
not live to publish the glad tidings in his own land. He died 
before completing his college course. A sketch of his life was pub- 
lished. It created a profound and widespread interest. It called 
forth legacies from the dying, tears, prayers and donations from 
the living. Two years later the American Board sent a band of 
missionaries to evangelize these Islands. In the band there were 
three Hawaiians and seven Americans and their wives. They 
sailed in the brig "Thaddeus." * 

The ten Islands of this group have an area of a little less than 
Massachusetts. The people were in the lowest depths of bar- 
barism. They were a race of thieves, gamblers and drunkards. 
Children wore no clothing; men and women almost none. The 
king visited the missionaries on board ship. He wore a narrow 
scarf about his waist, a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, a 
string of beads arouud his neck, and a wreath of feathers around 



* See "The Hawaiian Islands," by Anderson; "The Hawaiian Mission," by 
Bartlett and Hyde, for further information. 

23 



24 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

his head. Polygamy and polyandry were prevalent. A man could 
marry as many wives as he could feed; he could turn them adrift 
at pleasure. A woman could have as many husbands as she chose; 
she could turn them off and take others. The king had five wives. 
Each one had her day of service, when she followed her lord with a 
spit-dish and a fly-brush. Parents prostituted their daughters, and 
husbands their wives for gain. Two-thirds of the children were 
either strangled or buried alive. Aged parents were buried alive, 
or left to die of neglect. Maniacs were stoned. Captives were 
tortured and slain. Government and religion were oppressive. 
There was no law but the will of the chief. The people were ruled 
with a rod of iron. They had no rights that the chiefs were bound 
to respect. The land and all its products and the people belonged 
to the rulers. It was a crime punished with death for a common 
man to let his shadow fall on a chief, or for a woman to eat with 
her husband, or to eat fowl, pork, cocoanut, or banana. When a 
chief died the people knocked out their front teeth, shaved their 
heads, burned themselves, broke through all restraints, and prac- 
ticed all manner of crime, as if it were a virtue. All ages and both 
sexes gave scope to the vilest passions, of self-torture, robbery, 
licentiousness and murder. Whatever the priest wanted for the 
god — food, a house, land, or human sacrifice — must be forth- 
coming. When the people built a temple, some of them were 
offered in sacrifice at its dedication. It was among such people 
that the missionaries were to live and work. So dark was the pros- 
pect that a clergyman said to them before sailing, "Probably none 
of you will live to see the downfall of idolatry." But God is 
better than our fears, better than our hopes even. 

After a voyage of five months the missionaries caught a glimpse 
of Hawaii. In a few hours a boat put off and soon returned. 
One of the native workers was seen swinging his hat in the air and 
heard shouting, "The idols are no more." He learned that the old 
king was dead, and that his son succeeded him; that the images of 
the gods were all burned; that the men ate with the women; that 
but one chief was killed in settling the affairs of the government, 
and he for refusing to destroy his gods. The missionaries wrote, 
"Sing, O heavens, for the Lord hath done it." What was pre- 
dicted they should not live to see was done before their arrival. 
Surely God had anticipated them with the blessing of goodness. A 
council of chiefs was called to decide whether they should be 
allowed to remain. The king, seeing that the strangers had one 
wife each, objected that if he received them he would have to 



THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 25 

content himself with one. Some foreigners did not want them 
to stay. They said: " They have come to conquer the Islands." 
The chiefs replied: "In that case they would not have brought 
their women." The decision was favorable. Not only the king, 
but the high priest threw his weight into the scale. The missiona- 
ries began work at once. The king and the chiefs were the first 
pupils. In three months the king could read English; in six 
months several chiefs could both read and write. The first convert 
was the king's mother. She was the daughter of a race of kings, 
the wife of a king, and mother of two kings. Her person was 
sacred. There were times when no one might see her. When she 
walked abroad at the close of day, whoever saw her fell prostrate 
to the earth. Several of the high chiefs followed her example. 
"Within five years after the missionaries landed it was decided to 
recognize the Lord's day, and to adopt the Ten Commandments as 
the basis of government. It was made unlawful for women to visit 
ships for immoral purposes. In eight years the converts numbered 
fifty, and the Sunday-school scholars 26,000. The workers made 
repeated tours of the Islands, and pressed home the claims of the 
Gospel. The effect was wonderful. The natives came in compa- 
nies to inquire what they should do to be saved. Ten or twenty 
would be in the mission house conferring with the missionary, and 
as many more would be outside waiting their turn. The inquirers 
numbered 2,500. They were kept waiting for a year, and then 
admitted to the church only on the strictest examination. So 
inviting was this field that the American Board sent out thirty-two 
new workers, male and female, making a total staff of sixty-four. 
Scarcely had they reached the field when one of the most remarka- 
ble awakenings in the history of the Church began. The congrega- 
tions were immense. They numbered from four to six thousand. 
Men preached from seven to thirty times a week. There were 
conversions at almost every service. From 1838 to 1843 there 
were 27,000 admitted to the churches. The next twenty years there 
were over 20,000, making the whole number added about 50,000. 
In a little book entitled JEshcol, the story is told of the work 
of Titus Coan. He labored at Hilo. His parish was from one to 
three miles wide, and a hundred miles long. He had 15,000 people 
in his charge. They were vicious, sensual, and shameless, living 
like wild animals. Under his preaching nearly the whole popula- 
tion turned out to hear the Word. The sick and lame were 
brought on litters, or on the backs of men; the infirm crawled to 
the trail where the man of God was to pass, that they might catch 



26 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

some word of life. The interest deepened. It was found that the 
missionary could not go to the people; so they came to him. Two- 
thirds of the entire population left their homes and built their 
cabins near the mission house. The village of Hilo saw its popula- 
tion of one thousand increase to ten thousand. For two years this 
camp-meeting lasted. There were meetings daily for prayer and 
preaching. Mr. Coan once preached three times before breakfast. 
Often he had no leisure; no, not so much as to eat. In twelve 
months he admitted 5,000 to the church. Among these were men 
and women who had been idolaters, unclean, robbers, sorcerers, 
thieves and drunkards. In his ministry he had 12,000 conversions. 
As many people can read in that district in proportion to the 
whole population as in Illinois, and the Lord's day is better 
observed than in New England. The institutions of civilization 
have taken the place of the old savage life. These people were not 
content with having the Gospel ; they wanted to send it to those 
who had it not. They have sent workers to the Marquesas, to the 
Marshall, and to the Gilbert Islands. In 1870, when the American 
Board withdrew from this field and left the churches to maintain 
and to manage the work, it was reported that the natives gave 
$30,000 that year for Christian objects; thirty per cent of their 
ministers were foreign missionaries; twenty-two per cent of 
their contributions were for the foreign field. Their church build- 
ings are worth $250,000. Such is an outline of what forty ordained 
workers, their wives, and their lay helpers, under the blessing of 
God, accomplished in fifty years. Had Obookiah been alive he 
would have said, "Behold, what hath God wrought! " He would 
have seen Honolulu, once a village of grass huts, a substantial 
city; a race of once naked savages clothed and in their right mind; 
a nation of readers, whereas he left them without an alphabet; 
Christian marriage instead of polygamy and polyandry; property 
secure everywhere, whereas once it was safe nowhere; hundreds of 
churches and common schools; two female seminaries; a normal 
and a high school; a theological seminary; twenty-nine native 
preachers, beside eighteen male and female missionaries; some 
20,000 living church members, and a government with a settled 
constitution, a legislature, and courts of justice. 

Are no deductions to be made? Yes. The converts are not all 
just men made perfect. They do not rank as high as do the people 
in the United States. It would not be reasonable to expect that 
people removed only one generation from barbarism would show 
the stability, the culture, the moral excellence of those who have 



THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 27 

had the Gospel for a thousand years. It would be fairer to com- 
pare them with the churches in the apostolic age. Here as there 
the tares grew among the wheat. In Corinth a crime was com- 
mitted that was unknown among the heathen. Yet this very 
church was enriched in all utterance and knowledge so that it came 
behind in no gift. In Hawaii there were those who were living 
epistles known and read of all men. They were the joy and crown 
of the workers. If some were babes when they ought to be full 
grown men, and if some apostatized, we need not marvel. Such 
things have happened before and will again. Besides, it should 
be borne in mind that these people have been exposed to peculiar 
temptations. During the whaling season the foreign population 
equals one-half the population of Honolulu. Their influences are 
not good. Before the Gospel came women swam out to the ships. 
When the missionaries interfered, they imperiled their own lives. 
The house of Mr. Richards was twice assailed by men from English 
and American ships. They threatened to destroy the property and 
to take the lives of the missionaries if the laws interfering with 
their lustful indulgence were not abrogated. Had it not been for 
the natives they would have executed their threats. The popula- 
tion of the Islands is declining. Before the missionaries came, 
war, infanticide and licentiousness cut down the people as the 
reaper cuts down grass. Since then drink, measles, small-pox, 
leprosy, and vile diseases introduced by seamen, have increased 
the mortality. The use of clothing has had its disadvantages. 
The natives dressed heavily and then undressed and sat in the 
draft and took cold. Cold developed into rheumatism and con- 
sumption. When they drank they drank to excess. A savage peo- 
ple know nothing of moderation. At one time the king and the 
people formed a great temperance society; what was drunk on the 
Islands was for the most part by foreigners. There is cause for sad- 
ness in the thought that the Hawaiian people are dying out. But 
the work done among them was not in vain. Thousands were born 
into the kingdom. A whole race was uplifted and ennobled. The 
missionaries established free schools in every district. They gave 
the people a literature in their own tongue. Children were taught 
to read, write, sing by note; they were taught arithmetic, grammar 
and geography. They were given the open Bible, the Magna 
Oharta of all our liberties, the source of all our blessings. If the 
nation should cease to exist, the work done has been worth many 
times what it cost. From first to last, about a million dollars was 
spent on this mission. That would not pay for one-fourth of an 



28 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

iron-clad. It would not defray its current expenses for a year. It 
is a paltry sum when eternal issues are at stake. The Indians near 
Boston and near Philadelphia perished; but the labors of John 
Eliot and David Brainerd were not in vain. The churches that 
Paul planted on his missionary tours have disappeared, but he did 
not live and die to no purpose. God has been honored and obeyed. 
The power of the Gospel was demonstrated when demonstration 
was needed. A good work was done. One competent witness 
said: " The deeper I pushed my inquiries, the stronger became my 
conviction that what had been on your part necessarily an experi- 
mental work in modern missions, had, under God, proved an emi- 
nent success. Every sunrise brought me new reasons for admiring 
the power of divine grace, which can lift the poor out of the dust 
and set him among princes." He found the Bible in almost every 
hut; prayer a popular habit, and the Lord's day more strictly 
observed than in New York. Richard Henry Dana states that in 
no place in the world were the rules which control vice and regu- 
late amusement so strict. They are reasonably and fairly enforced. 
He found no hut without its Bible and hymn book in the native 
tongue ; and the practice of family prayer and grace before meat, 
though it be no more than a calabash of poi and a few dried fish, 
and, whether at home or on a journey, as common as in New 
England a century ago. Dr. A. P. Peabody said: "Fifty years 
ago the half-reasoning elephant or the tractable and troth-keeping 
dog might have seemed the peer or more of the unreasoning and 
conscienceless Hawaiian. From that very race, from that very 
generation with which the nobler brutes might have scorned to 
claim kindred, have been developed the peers of saints and angels." 
This is the Lord's doing, and it is marvelous in our eyes. 



V. 
THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Our ship reached her moorings in Honolulu on Saturday morn- 
ing, August 10th. We remained there three days for repairs. T. 
D. Garvin came on board and invited me to his home. W. C. 
Weedon was on the pier to repeat the welcome already extended. 
Mrs. Garvin had a hot breakfast waiting. She knows the direct 
route to the heart. Miss Wirick had arrived on the Belgic the 
night before, and was domiciled with the Garvins. She was on her 
way from Tokyo to Des Moines. Miss Harrison and Miss Beard 
and the gentlemen who are members of the preacher's family 
showed me much kindness. This brief stay enabled me to see the 
place and the people, and to learn some things that otherwise I 
should never know. . 

The Hawaiian Islands lie between the Tropic of Cancer and the 
Equator. They extend from northwest to southeast a distance of 
three hundred and eighty miles. They are in the track of com- 
merce between the United States and Australasia, and Panama and 
China. They are now, and must continue to be, an important com- 
mercial center. They are not a group, it has been said, but a string 
of islands, or rather a string of pearls in the sapphire center of the 
great American seas. They are of volcanic origin. They contain 
many extinct craters, while on one island there are two craters still 
active. On the Island of Maui there is the largest extinct crater in 
the world. The mountain is ten thousand and thirty feet above the 
sea. The crater is twenty miles in circumference and two thousand 
seven hundred feet deep. London and New York could both be 
placed in it. The Island of Hawaii has the two largest active vol- 
canoes on the globe. One is as high as Pike's Peak. Oahu is the 
most important Island, since it contains the capital, Honolulu, and 
possesses the best harbor. Hawaii is much the largest, and gives 
its name to the group. Though the Islands are within the tropics, 
the weather is mild. The average temperature for the year is 74°. 
The average of the coldest months is 69°, the average of the warm- 
est is 78°. The trade winds and ocean currents moderate the heat. 
The weather consists of sunshine and breezes. 

29 



30 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Captain Cook discovered and brought these Islands into connec- 
tion with the rest of the world in 1778. He called them the Sand- 
wich Islands, after his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, but the official 
name is the Hawaiian Islands. Cook left goats and pigs and seeds 
of melons, pumpkins and onions with the natives. He left, too, 
diseases unknown before, which spread and caused misery and 
death. For a time Cook was worshiped as a god. Pigs were offered 
and prayers were recited to him. He was installed as an incarna- 
tion of the god Lono. He moved among them as an earthly deity, 
observed, feared and worshiped. His men were looked upon as 
supernatural beings. The messengers sent to the other islands said: 
"The men are white; their skin is loose and folding; their heads 
are angular; fire and smoke issue out of their mouths; they have 
openings in the sides of their bodies into which they thrust their 
hands, and draw out iron, beads, nails and other treasures; and 
their speech is unintelligible." On his second visit Cook was killed. 
The natives grew weary of the conduct of his crews. Quarrels 
arose and several perished. George Vancouver, a captain of the 
British navy, visited the Islands three times, in 1792, in 1793, and in 
1794. He introduced orange trees and grape vines and cows and 
sheep. He refused to sell firearms or ammunition. He was a friend 
of the natives, and his name is held by them in grateful and loving 
remembrance. Horses were introduced by Captain Cleveland in 
1803. Some of the men that visited the Islands were kind and cour- 
teous and did what they could to uplift and ennoble the natives. 
The most were not so. They debased and debauched them; they 
outraged and robbed and shot them without cause. The king that 
was on the throne in Cook's time and Vancouver's time put an end 
to petty wars and feudal anarchy and consolidated the Islands under 
one government, and thus prepared them in part for Christianity 
and civilization. 

The first missionaries landed in 1820. Some Botany Bay convicts 
had preceded them and circulated all sorts of evil reports about 
them. It was a question whether they would be allowed to remain. 
God decided the issue in their favor. It was not long till the term 
missionary became one of honor. If a man -was decent and paid his 
debts quarterly he was set down as a missionary, though he might 
have no more to do with the spread of the Gospel than Claus 
Spreckles has to-day. The missionaries found the idols abolished. 
But although idolatry was formally and legally done away, its 
superstitions were destined to survive for generations to come, and 
to blend with and color their conceptions of Christianity. In the 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 31 

first group of missionaries there were two clergymen, five laymen 
and their wives, and three natives that had been educated in 
America. The names of the clergymen were Hiram Bingham and 
Asa Thurston. To some the whole enterprise seemed the very acme 
of folly. A ship owner said: "These women are fools. They 
cannot live there, and will, everyone of them, be back within a year, 
and I have given my captains orders to give them their passages 
whenever they apply." He had more of the milk of human kindness 
in him than faith. These women were neither fools nor cowards. 
They did live there, and many of them died there. The first ser- 
mon was preached April 25, 1820, by Mr. Bingham, from the text: 
" Fear not, for behold I bring you good* tidings of great joy." The 
first church was built the next year. It was a thatched house. In 
course of time a second was built on the same site. It was of 
thatch and seated 2,000. Some years later a large stone building 
was erected. The stones were carried for about a mile on the 
shoulders of the men. Trees were cut on the mountains and 
dragged to the sea and floated around to Honolulu. This house 
still stands. A slab of marble in memory of Mr. Bingham states 
that he preached there for twenty years, taught confiding kings and 
queens and chiefs, faced dangers, bore calumny from abroad, aided 
in reducing the language to writing, translated the most of the 
Bible, composed books, hymns and tunes, baptized a thousand con- 
verts, planned this edifice, and with his loving people, on June 8, 
1839, laid the adjoining corner-stone, beneath which, was placed a 
Hawaiian Bible, which was first published May 10, 1839. From 
here, amid loud wailings of many of his flock, he sailed on August 
3, 1840, to visit his native land; but never returning was not with 
them when on July 12, 1842, with joyful acclamations they thus dedi- 
cated this church to Jehovah our God for ever and ever. More 
than once his life was in peril. A drunken sailor brandishing his 
knife said, "You are the man every day." Another aimed a blow 
at him with an ugly club. His pupils interfered and saved his life. 
He had interfered with their passions and lusts; that was the head 
and front of his offending. The first printing was done in 1822. 
The first marriage was solemnized the same year. The relations 
between the sexes had been very loose in the dark days. Almost 
everything connected with the lives of the people had to do with 
religion, except marriage. The missionaries introduced a new order 
of things. The original workers were strongly reinforced from time 
to time. The good work spread all over the Islands. The whole peo- 
ple were gathered into churches and schools and Christian homes. 



32 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

They were clothed and in their right mind. Missionaries were sent 
to the Gilbert, to the Marshall, and to Marquesas Islands. When the 
Jubilee was observed the motto seen everywhere was this: "The 
life of the land is perpetuated by righteousness." Back of the old 
stone church is the graveyard where the missionaries and their fam- 
ilies are buried. Under royal palms and firs they rest from their 
labors. This is holy ground; it is God's acre. I saw the mauso- 
leum where the ashes of kings and queens repose, but no place in 
Honolulu stirred my soul so deeply as this. 

Next to the churches the most interesting place in Honolulu is 
the Bishop Museum of Polynesian Ethnology and Natural History. 
This museum is the most extensive and the most complete of its 
kind in existence. It contains between fifty and sixty thousand 
curiosities. Every group in the Pacific is represented. In this 
museum we can see how the natives lived. Here are models of their 
houses, and specimens of their furniture and clothing and orna- 
ments. We can see how they prepared and served their food. 
Here are their canoes and fishing tackle and surf boards and weap- 
ons of war. Here are the tools they used and the gods they wor- 
shiped. Here are specimens of the animal life of the Pacific, — birds, 
fish, snakes, kangaroos, insects and shellfish. The Curator, W. T. 
Brigham, A. M., is a very intelligent and interesting gentleman. 
He took us through and explained everything. It was a rare treat. 
The houses of the people were of frame" and thatched with straw. 
The king's palace looked like a haystack. The building of a house 
was a religious act. The priest must select the timber and decide 
the time for cutting it. He must select the site. A man must be 
sacrificed and placed under the main post. After the building was 
thatched the priest must locate the door. A raised portion of the 
floor served for a bed. There was no chimney; the smoke got out 
as best it could or stayed within. The thatch soon got full of ver- 
min, and the house, being poorly ventilated, became musty and 
unwholesome. The furniture was simple. It consisted of a few 
calabashes to hold food and clothing, some dishes for pig, dog or 
fish, some water bottles, a few rolls of mats and bundles of cloth. 
The mat could be used for a bed, or for a coat, or for a sail. The 
chiefs used no spoon or fork. The greasy nature of roast pig or 
dog or the sticky nature of poi made finger-bowls a necessity. Slop 
basins were used to receive the refuse of the food, such as fish 
bones and banana skins. These were often inlaid with the teeth or 
bones of slain enemies. We saw one that must have had two hun- 
dred teeth in it. A chief when dying would strictly charge his 




T. D. Garvin. 



Lieut. Stileman. 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 33 

friends to see that his bones were buried where no enemy could find 
them to make of them arrows to shoot mice, or fish-hooks, or to 
adorn his slop basin. Clothing was made from the bark of a tree. 
It was beaten out thin on a wooden anvil. They had a method of 
coloring it. Some patterns are quite pretty. The principal source 
of food was the taro plant. This was beaten in a wooden dish with 
a stone pestle. When it fermented it was called poi. It is palat- 
able and nourishing. It was man's work to prepare food; it was 
woman's work to prepare clothing. Their ornaments consisted of 
bracelets, fans, anklets, bangles, necklaces, ear-rings and combs, 
made of beautiful shells. Their canoes were well made. Their 
weapons of war are poor things compared with Krupp guns, but 
they answered their purpose. The stone adze was their chief cut- 
ting tool. With it they felled trees and made canoes and paddles 
and spears and idols. They had gouges 1 and chisels which wer& 
made of sharks' teeth and drills made from shells or lava splinters. 
They used lava and corals of various surfaces to polish with. With 
these simple instruments they accomplished surprising results. 
They made bowls as round as if they had been turned in a lathe. 
Among the thousands of things seen were pillows of quaint designs, 
sandals, scratchees, stone lamps, loving cups, spittoons, bone needles, 
large tureens in which human flesh was served at cannibal feasts, 
coats of armor, cloth shields, swords, fish-nets, mirrors, pipes. One 
curious thing was a chief's belt with one hundred and twenty 
human teeth fastened to it. The teeth indicated that he had killed 
and eaten that number. The teeth were trophies and were worn as 
an Indian savage wore his scalps. The idols do not resemble any 
thing in heaven above or on earth beneath. No doubt these gods 
are still worshiped by a few. We saw in one case an offering that 
was made in June of the current year. It consisted of two bottles 
of whisky. Each had a corkscrew for the convenience of the 
spirits, who have no teeth. 

In one room are portraits of all the kings and queens, beginning 
with Kamehameha the Great (1737-1819) down to the present time. 
Not only so, but there are portraits of many distinguished people 
who were connected with the Islands in some way. The Curator 
pointed out Princess Euth. She weighed about four hundred 
pounds. It took five men to help her into the saddle when she 
went out for a ride. She measured around the waist sixty inches. 
Once she proposed to compress her waist as foreigners do. She got 
a corset and got a number of court flunkies to assist. She emptied 
her lungs and asked them to haul in the slack. She repeated this 



34 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

process two or three times, but when she began to breathe every- 
thing broke, and she was as large as before. She despaired of a 
wasp waist. Once the Curator tried to waltz with her. He might 
as well have tried to get his arm around a hogshead. He wished 
he had been able to take Sydney Smith's advice and dance 
with her by sections or read the riot act and disperse her. There 
are books of all kinds in this room relating to the Islands. The 
one that interested me most was a copy of the Hawaiian Bible pub- 
lished in 1839. It contains 2,331 pages. In addition there are 
Bibles in the following tongues : Tahitian, Malagasy, Karotongan, 
Tongan, Maori, Gilbert Island, Marshall Island. The Curator 
pointed out a cannon ball that was fired at Mr. Richards' house to 
compel him to permit the women to visit the ships as they did while 
in their heathen blindness. "Mr. Richards did not scare] a bit," 
was the only comment. One of the blackest chapters in human 
history is that which records the deeds of some British and Ameri- 
can seamen in their dealings with the natives. It would have been 
better for them if a millstone turned by an ass had been hung about 
their necks and they cast into the sea. 

We visited the Palace and saw several members of the Cabinet. 
As we drove up ex-Queen Liliuokalani came out on her balcony. 
She is a state prisoner, and is not allowed to receive visitors. We 
found the Legislature in session. The question before both 
houses was that of a subsidy toward a cable between the Islands 
and the United States. In the lower house an interpreter repeated 
every speech; the Senate needed none. The government is a 
Republic in name. In some important respects it differs from our 
American notion of a Republic. For example, the Constitution 
^vas " promulgated; " it was not adopted by the people. The Con- 
stitutional Convention elected a President to serve six years. His 
successor will be elected by the Legislature. But in his election 
there must be a majority of all the Senators. The aim seems to 
be to keep all the power in the Senate. No man can be a Repre- 
sentative unless he owns property in the Republic worth not less 
than one thousand dollars over and above all incumbrances, or has 
received a money income of not less than six hundred dollars dur- 
ing the year preceding the election. To be a Senator one must own 
property worth three thousand dollars, or have been in receipt of 
twelve hundred dollars during the year just before the election. 
And no one can vote for a Senator who has not real property worth 
fifteen hundred dollars over and above all incumbrances, or per- 
sonal property worth three thousand dollars over and above all 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 35 

incumbrances, or has actually received a money income of not less 
than six hundred dollars the year before the date of the election. 
The franchise is in the hands of the property-holders very largely. 
There is no such thing as manhood suffrage. All agree that the 
government is wisely and honestly and economically administered. 
It is by far the best government the Islands have ever had. 

The commerce of the Islands is constantly increasing. In 1893 
the imports and exports amounted to $16,089,467.08. In ten years 
(1884-1893) they aggregated $157,815,052.77. There are eighty-one 
corporations registered with an actual paid-up capital of $21,937,- 
160. The gross income for the year ending July 1, 1893, was 
$10,004,187. The cultivation of sugar-cane is the chief industry. 
In 1893 the crop was 150,000 tons. This at seventy dollars a 
ton represents $10,500,000. The rice crop is estimated at 30,000,- 
000 pounds. The raising of cattle comes third. The coffee indus- 
try is yet in its infancy, but 5,000 acres being planted. The people 
claim that it is the best coffee in the world. The real and personal 
property is assessed for taxation purposes at nearly $40,000,000. It 
is said that all the tropical trees and fruits will flourish on the 
Islands. At the present time one can see the orange, lemon, 
citron, bread-fruit, mango, persimmon, almond, cocoanut, pine- 
apple, banana, fig, lime, tamarind, plum, algeroba, grape, pear, 
banyan, and almost every variety of palm. Beside these the soil 
produces yams, potatoes, beets, carrots, onions, peas, beans, corn, 
melons, cabbage, cauliflower, squash and tomatoes. Taro is largely 
grown and used. The revenue from all sources amounts to $1,625,- 
000. The public debt is $3,400,000. The government pays for free 
schools $240,000 a year. Practically every man and woman and 
child on the Islands can read and write. The government pays 
$170,000 for the support of the lepers. They are segregated on the 
Island of Molokai. They have 5,000 acres set apart for their use. 
On three sides they are surrounded by the sea, and on the fourth 
there is a precipice over 2,000 feet high. It was there that Father 
Danrien did his work and won immortal fame. 

The natives are dying out. Captain Cook estimated that there 
were 400,000 people on these Islands. This estimate was too high. 
In 1832 there were 130,313. Between 1850 and 1884 there was a 
decrease of 62,385. The population in 1894 was 100,044. Of this 
number 41,736 are Hawaiians; 15,000 are Chinese; 21,600 are 
Japanese, and 21,708 are Americans or Europeans. The property 
is now for the most part in the hands of the whites. The indus- 
trial development of the Islands has changed the character of the 



36 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

population. On the street one sees people from all parts of the 
world. Honolulu is cosmopolitan. There are on the streets 
Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, South Sea Islanders, Scotch, 
English, Germans, Canadians, Americans, and Hawaiians. The 
population being changed, there is now a new religious problem. 
The American Board felt that it could withdraw from the field 
thirty years ago. But new peoples are coming in. As this indus- 
trial development continues, more and more will come. A walk 
with W. C. Weedon through the Chinese and Japanese quarters 
near midnight shows that there is room for all who wish to work. 
The Hawaiian Evangelical Association is doing a great work; still 
there are thousands whom the Gospel has not touched. The 
Roman Catholics entered the Islands in 1827. Their claims were 
backed with French cannon. They have now a strong staff and 
many adherents. The Church of England sent some workers here 
in 1862. They have not made much headway, so far as I could 
learn. 

For several years there have been a number of Disciples in Hono- 
lulu. Their homes and their business interests are here. They 
are incurable Disciples. They want their children to grow up in 
the faith. Nearly two years ago they invited T. D. Garvin to settle 
among them and to organize a church. One year ago a congrega- 
tion of eleven members was organized. They number now thirty- 
five. Nine others were added, but these were organized into 
another church on board the British ship of war, The Hyacinth. 
Lieutenant Stileman is their minister. A Sunday-school was 
organized last December. There was then one scholar ; now there 
are fifty. A chapel is in course of erection, and will soon be ready 
for use. It will not be as fine as the Union Central Church, which 
cost $137,000, but it will answer all purposes just as well. Last 
year six men assumed all the expenses of this enterprise. It was a 
brave thing to do, but they did it. Miss Harrison is at work among 
the Japanese. The day I was there one was baptized in a pool that 
once was used only by the great chiefs for bathing purposes. Dr. 
Garvin has baptized a hundred Japanese since he came to Hono- 
lulu. Many of these are scattered far and wide. Some of them 
will carry the good seed into their new homes, and God only can 
foresee the results. On Sunday I spoke twice in Harmony Hall, 
and once to the Japanese through Miss Harrison. The audiences 
were good and attentive. Among them were Hon. A. S. Willis, 
American Minister, and his wife and son. They invited us to break 
bread with them on Monday. Under their hospitable roof we 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 37 

forgot time and space, and fancied we were back in an old Ken- 
tucky home. There was some feeling at first against our people 
organizing a church in Honolulu. But that feeling is giving way. 
Dr. McArthur told the pastors that if the Disciples had not begun 
a work, he would urge the Baptists to send a man there at once. 
As it is, there is 'no need. 

In 1820 Honolulu had a population of 4,000, living in grass huts; 
a few cocoanut trees, no flowers, no greensward, no water, no 
horses or carriages. All around was a barren waste. Now it is a 
well-built town, with beautiful groves and flowers of every kind, 
carriages and horses without number, electric light, water-works, a 
kindergarten, schools for boys and girls, a college and seminary, 
a public reading room, a Young Men's Christian Association, 
eighteen papers and magazines, the Queen's Hospital, with its 
magnificent grounds, the Lunalilo Home for the aged poor, elegant 
mansions occupied by men who have made colossal fortunes, the 
Palace and the Temple of Justice, the telephone, and all the 
appointments of modern civilization.. W. M. Hopper took me to 
the Punchbowl, an extinct volcano back of the city. One might go 
over the world and not see a finer view. At the foot of the moun- 
tain is the beautiful city; far away in one direction is Pearl 
Harbor; in another direction is Diamond Head; back of you are the 
mountains ; before you is the wide ocean. It was a glorious sight. 
While there the thought was suggested, suppose Captain Cook 
could revisit this place, what would he think? He would think he 
had lost his bearings, and was borne by wind and wave to the 
" Paradise of the Pacific." 

My visit in Honolulu was exceedingly pleasant. The friends 
there did everything in their power for my comfort and for my 
profit. Miss Beard and Mrs. Hopper placed their carriages at 
my service. Dr. Garvin went with me everywhere. I saw more 
than 1 could have seen in a month had I been alone. The native 
women wear their Mother Hubbard dress on the street and to 
church, but I soon forgot that. Even the mosquitoes were better 
than their reputation. Only one thing disturbed my equanimity. 
W. C. Weedon gave my shoes to his Japanese servant to clean. 
He looked at them in dismay, and said, "Big! Me could live in 
them." Aside from this unfeeling remark of the diminutive 
Asiatic, all my memories of Honolulu are delightful. 



VI. 

"THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOE HIS LAW." 

As we steam out from Honolulu towards Japan, we cannot but 
think of the islands lying to the south of us. A glance at the map 
of the Pacific will show how numerous these are. "The whole 
ocean is studded with ocean gems, as if the mirror of the starry sky 
above it." Three hundred of these islands have been evangelized, 
and are centers of light and life. 

The Hawaiians felt at an early day that they ought to carry the 
Gospel to those sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death. 
They rightly felt that only thus could they retain the truth which 
they had received, and become strengthened and established in the 
faith. In 1853 two native pastors and their wives, in answer to a 
call from the Marquesas Islands, volunteered for that field. Rev. 
P. W. Parker, an American, accompanied them that he might 
counsel and encourage them. A Roman Catholic priest demanded 
that these missionaries should be sent away, on the ground that 
these Islands belonged to the French. One of the chiefs said: 
"No; the land is not 3 r ours. It belongs to this people. There never 
was a Frenchman born here. These teachers must not be sent 
back." Some years afterward a native was invited to dine on 
board a whale-ship. He would not eat anything until he had asked 
a blessing. In his broken English he said: "O Great Fader 1 
Got no fader; got no moder; got no broder; got no sister! Make 
first the sea; make first the dry land; make first the moon and 
stars; make first the trees; then he make man. And now Great 
Fader, give man his belly full. Amen." This might have been 
couched in smoother language, but it would be difficult to make it 
more expressive or more appropriate. Once an American whale- 
ship touched at these Islands for supplies. The mate, on going 
ashore, was seized and dragged away to be killed. Some young 
men had been stolen by another ship to be sold as slaves. The day 
of vengeance had now come. The mate was in their power. 
Through the interposition of a Christian girl and one of the mis- 
sionaries the mate was saved and sent back to his ship. President 
Lincoln, hearing of this, sent two gold watches and two silver 

38 



THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOB HIS LAW 39 

medals, and other gifts, costing five hundred dollars in all, to be 
distributed among the deliverers. The missionary wrote to the 
President, "When I saw one of your countrymen ill-treated, and 
about to be baked and eaten, as a pig is eaten, I ran to deliver him, 
full of pity and grief at the evil deed of those benighted people. 
As to this friendly deed of mine, its seed came from your great 
land, and was brought by certain of your countrymen who had 
received the love of God. It was planted in Hawaii, and I brought 
it to plant in this land and in these dark regions, that they might 
receive the root of all that is good and true, which is love.'" When 
this letter reached Washington, the President was dead and the 
nation in mourning. 

Other workers were sent to the Marshall Islands and to the Gil- 
bert Islands. In the last named group there are nine Hawaiian 
missionaries and their wives. One of the most precious incidents 
of my stay in Honolulu was a visit to Dr. Hiram Bingham and his 
family. He is a son of the pioneer missionary of the same name. 
His wife' is a born linguist and a born missionary. She is a 
descendant of the Brewster of the Mayflower. His sister is the 
wife of the sainted Titus Coan. His son, the third Hiram Bing- 
ham, is a student in Yale, and expects to go to China as a medical 
missionary. Dr. Bingham now lives in Honolulu, but he has given 
his life to the Gilbert Islands. He and his wife were left alone 
with God among a savage people. Those who think that the 
natives without the Gospel are innocent and happy, would do well 
to interview Dr. Bingham. They began the study of the language 
at once. As none understood English, this was slow work. They 
picked up one word after another till in six months they were able 
to address the people on Gospel themes. They visited the Islands 
and preached Christ wherever they found an open door. They 
took their own food and cooking utensils and bedding with them. 
They heard from the great world beyond only once a year. They 
undertook to reduce the language to a written form. There are 
only thirteen letters in this language. In 1859 Dr. Bingham began 
the translation of the New Testament. In fourteen years it was 
completed. In 1883 he began the Old Testament. This was com- 
pleted in seven years. Mrs. Bingham greatly assisted him. Two 
natives aided him on the Old Testament. When they came to the 
last verse a photographer took a picture of the translators and 
their tools. Dr. Bingham gave me a copy. No other gift could be 
so highly prized. Mrs. Bingham has written a book of Bible 
stories. They have also prepared a hymn-book. 



40 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

The London Missionary Society, the Wesleyan Missionary Soci- 
ety, the Church Missionary Society, and the United Presbyterian 
Society of Scotland, have sent workers to these islands. It was in 
Fiji that John Hunt and James Calvert did their work. John Will- 
iams and his associates labored in the Hervey and Samoan groups 
and won them to Christ. Norfolk Island was the scene of the 
labors of Patteson. Marsden and Selwyn did their work farther 
south among the Maoris. The New Hebrides were evangelized by 
Geddie, Gordon and Paton. Several efforts were made to drive 
Paton away; he would not go. He would stay at any cost. They 
sought to kill him; he would not be killed. He lived to see four- 
teen thousand converts. He still lives, and may see as many more. 
He tells of his effort to print the Bible. He was not a printer, but 
by persistence he got the types in their proper place. When the 
first page was printed, he went out and threw up his hat and 
shouted and danced for joy. It was long after midnight; the 
natives were sound asleep; and he was a missionary. But his dance 
was like David's when he brought back the ark; it was an act of 
worship. When water failed, he proposed to dig a well. The peo- 
ple thought he was insane. They had seen the water come dowu 
from the clouds, and never heard of it coining up from the heart of 
the earth. When they did strike water, they changed their minds 
and regarded him as a god. He describes the dress of a bride. 
Over her grass skirts she wore a man's overcoat, buttoned from her 
chin to her toes. Over that she wore a man's vest. To each 
shoulder she fastened a man's shirt; one was red and the other was 
striped. When she walked these moved like wings. Then she 
took a pair of man's pantaloons and placed the body of them over 
her head and allowed the legs to hang down her back. Her head 
dress was made of a red shirt, and one sleeve hung over one ear, 
and the other sleeve over the other ear. In this apparel she came 
to the altar in a July day. The humorous is blended with the 
heroic. 

On Savage Island all captives and strangers were sacrificed for 
their inhuman feasts. A number of Society Island converts deter- 
mined to make an effort to introduce the. Gospel among them. 
The effort cost the participants their lives. Some three years later 
a native convert, named Luke, sought permission to make another 
trial. He was taken in a ship as near the island as was thought 
prudent for it to go. Luke took a bundle of clothes and a New 
Testament, and fastening them on his head leaped into the sea and 
swam ashore. He was seized and was about to be sacrificed. He 



THE ISLES SHALL WAIT FOB HIS LAW 41 

made himself understood and was allowed to deliver his message. 
The people were interested and spared him till the next day. 
Having gained their ears he soon gained their hearts. Two or 
three years later the missionary ship ventured near these shores. 
They found, to their astonishment and delight, the whole island 
revolutionized. Savagery had been renounced, and the whole peo- 
ple wanted to be taught the Christian way. In course of time some 
workers from this island went to New Guinea. They were all mas- 
sacred. The question was asked, Who will take their place? 
Twenty arose and offered themselves for this desperate service. 
So the work spreads from island to, island. The Gospel must 
propagate itself. Those who have it cannot keep the good news to 
themselves. The natives of the Friendly Islands were so ignorant 
they did not know of fire. They ate everything raw. They did not 
know that water would boil. One missionary says: "When I 
kindled a fire and boiled some water, I could scarce restrain them 
from worshiping me as a god. You can imagine how they mar- 
veled when myself and wife reduced their language to writing, and 
printed the word of God on our little printing press." This man 
lived to see thirty thousand converts on this group. Montgomery 
wrote : 

"The immense Pacific smiles 
Round ten thousand little isles, 
Haunts of violence and wiles; 
But the powers of darkness yield, 
For the Cross is in the field, 
And the Light of life revealed." 

It is even so. War and waste are giving place to fruitful strifes 
and rivalries of peace. These islands that once produced nothing 
now produce figs, limes, oranges, bananas, bread-fruit, guavas, 
melons, pineapples, yams, sweet potatoes, peanuts, tea, coffee, 
hemp, leather, silk, wax, timber, copper, tin, gold. And people 
who once were as stupid as death, and as indifferent as the grave, 
are now intensely interested in the Word and work of life. 

The Lord, speaking through the prophet, said: "The isles shall 
wait for his law;" "The isles shall wait for me, and on mine arm 
shall they trust;" "Surely the isles shall wait for me." These 
prophecies have been largely fulfilled. The Gospel has ' reached 
Madagascar, Formosa, Java, Sumatra, Celebes, Borneo, New 
Guinea, New Zealand. Over the door of the postoffice in Hong 
Kong are the words: "As cold water is to a thirsty soul, so is 
good news from a far country." In Ceylon a Brahman was asked 



42 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

if he worshiped the gods. He said, "The gods worship me." A 
traveler saw some trees marked "X." He asked what this mark 
indicated. He was told that every X tree was devoted to the Lord. 
He saw a woman throw a handful of rice into the pot for every 
member of the family, and then two handfuls into a pot near the 
fire. She said, "This is the Lord's rice pot, and I remember him 
when cooking each meal." So on every continent and every island 
of the sea the Gospel is having free course and is being glorified. 
So it must continue, for the promise confirmed with an oath is this, 
"As I live, saith the Lord, all the earth shall be filled with my 
glory." 



VII. 
FKOM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA. 

The Hawaiians are passionately fond of music and flowers. The 
Royal Band plays when ships arrive and when they depart. Friends 
cover those about to leave with wreaths and garlands. The ship 
and officers and passengers are decorated. Mr. and Mrs. W. M. 
Hopper, W. L. Templeton and W. C. Weedon, drove me to the 
ship and arrayed me in becoming style, and stood on the pier wav- 
ing good wishes and farewells as long as they could distinguish one 
passenger from another. Their wreath made my room fragrant for 
a week; their kindness will be precious for all time. 

There is another Hawaiian custom that is not so beautiful. When 
a ship comes in or goes out, scores of boys swim out and call on the 
passengers to throw a nickel or a dime into the sea that they may 
show how they can dive and get it. These lads are "tolerably 
amphibious." They swim like fish. When a coin is thrown they 
dive instantly and some one catches it before it reaches the bottom. 
It would be better if passengers did not encourage this somewhat 
demoralizing practice. The boys earn a precarious living. The 
strong and swift succeed fairly well; the weak and slow get little or 
nothing. It would be better for these stout lads to earn a living in 
some other way. 

When our ship was across the bar we looked about a little. It 
was plain that our passenger list was greatly increased. We took 
on four hundred Japanese in Honolulu. The Government imports 
Japanese and Chinese and Portuguese, and leases them to the 
planters. They come on a three years' contract. When the con- 
tract expires they can remain on the Islands or return home. The 
Government sees that the rights of these people are conserved. 
Truant officers see that all children of a certain age are in school. 
A portion of their wages is deposited in the Savings Bank every 
month to their credit. This is paid over to them in bulk when the 
contract has been fulfilled. With this amount of capital they can 
start in business in a small way on the Islands, or they can return 
home and buy a small property or go into business there. Those 

43 



44 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

that took passage on the City of Peking had finished a term of 
three years. As times are dull on the Islands, and as the fare was 
reduced to ten dollars or less, this large number decided to return 
to Japan. The Japanese are warmly attached to the land of their 
birth, but not so much so as the Chinese. The Japanese take their 
wives with them; the Chinese do not. If a Chinese dies on board 
ship or in a foreign land his body is embalmed and sent to the 
Flowery Kingdom. Should the annexation of the Hawaiian Islands 
ever become a live question in the United States this system of con- 
tract labor would have to be dealt with. The planters say they 
would be ruined if they had to pay American prices for labor. 

The list of cabin passengers has been more than doubled. As 
usual, we have people of all kinds. Some are going on business 
and are sensible people. Some are making the grand tour just 
because it is the thing to do. They have struck oil or pay dirt or 
something else, and can afford to go. They are well-dressed, have 
as many diamonds as they can display, and look as if they did not 
need to offer the Scotchman's prayer for a " good conceit of them- 
selves." When they open their mouths and expose their minds, 
and set forth their plans and purposes, the disenchantment is com- 
plete. Coleridge met a handsome man at a dinner party. His head 
was covered with great knobs as if the brain was too large for the 
skull. He seemed to be Solon and Solomon and Aristotle and 
Bacon in one. " I wish he would speak," thought Coleridge. " In 
his capacious mind are treasures of knowledge and wisdom by which 
we all might profit." Toward the close of the banquet he did 
speak, and this is what he said: "Pass me them dumplings; 
them's the jockies for me." It was enough. The poet and philos- 
opher was satisfied. There are people who cross the Atlantic and 
the Pacific every year ostensibly to improve their minds. The real 
reason is, it is the thing to do. It requires more than a letter of 
credit and a vulgar display of diamonds and an extensive wardrobe 
to make such a trip with profit. A ride from Sleepy Hollow to 
Frogtown and return would do them as much good. The steamship 
and railroad companies, the hotels and dealers in bric-a-brac make 
something out of them. The rustics among whom they dwell will 
regard their trip as a nine days' wonder, but that is all. If they 
were willing to deny themselves and use this money to give some 
boy or girl an education, or to aid some worthy enterprise, they 
would make far better use of their time and their means. How is 
the world advantaged by any number of people carrying their low 
aims and vulgar conceptions of life and their bad grammar around 



FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA 45 

it simply because they have more money than they can use at home? 
There are men and women who travel, and every day is a feast to 
them, and when they return they make good use of what they have 
learned, but they are not, as a rule, the people who make a display 
of their wealth. 

When we started from San Francisco I thought we were on a 
temperance ship. No one would think so now. It is astonishing 
how many respectable people drink, and the amount they drink. 
Women drink as much as men. A man orders a quart of cham- 
pagne for dinner. He and his wife drink every drop of it. He has 
a quart of beer or claret for lunch, and as much Apollinaris for 
breakfast, and a bottle or two during the day. Christian men and 
women drink on board ship on the plea that the water is bad. The 
water is not bad, but even if it were it would still be more whole- 
some than the villainous stuff with which they saturate themselves. 
On this ship, years ago, a European clergyman was accustomed to 
take a class of wine before going to bed. One good woman saw 
him and took the glass from his hand and threw it overboard and 
gave him a piece of her mind besides. I wish she were with us now. 
The human appetite is a curious thing. It got our first parents into 
trouble in Eden, and it has been getting their offspring into trouble 
ever since. Now, as in Paul's day, there are those whose stomach 
is their god. 

Four days out from Honolulu we crossed the one hundred and 
eightieth meridian and dropped a day. Had we been going the 
other way we would have added a day. We woke one morning and 
called it Friday; we woke the next morning and called it Sunday. 
We lost one whole day and can never find it unless we retrace our 
path. The Captain told us that he crossed the meridian once on his 
birthday. He had no birthday and did not count that year. The 
ladies exclaimed, "Wasn't that lovely! I would like to cross on 
my birthday." In going east he once had two Easter Sundays 
together. Some cannot understand this yet. It is a great mystery. 
We have had all sorts of diagrams and explanations. To most it 
will remain an insoluble problem. 

Captain Ward asked me to conduct service on Sunday. On Brit- 
ish ships the captains, I believe, read the Episcopal service, unless 
there is an Episcopal clergyman on board. When I crossed the At- 
lantic in 1888, there were on board Dr. Noble, Dr. Gladden, Dr. El- 
linwood, and many others, but the captain read the service. He was 
not a religious man. On the way back there were several ministers 
among the passengers, but no one was asked to lead. The captain, 



46 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

a profane man, took the service. Our ship is under the American 
flag, and every captain is at liberty in such matters. We met for 
worship under some disadvantages. The social hall had been 
swept away by a typhoon a year ago. The books and seats went 
with it. We met on deck in the open air. Some books were found. 
The passengers brought their chairs together. The ship rolled and 
tossed not a little. But we got along very well. The text was: 
"Ye know that the rulers of the Gentiles lord it over them, and 
their great ones exercise authority over them. Not so shall it be 
among you: but whosoever would become great among you shall be 
your minister; and whosoever would be first among you shall be 
your servant: even as the Son of man came not to be ministered 
unto, but to minister, and give his life a ransom for many." The 
pagan thought that the great man was the man that was served, and 
the larger his retinue of servants, the greater the man. Christ 
taught that the great man is the man who does most to serve and 
save. The world has called Cyrus, and Alexander, and Pompey, 
and Frederick, and Constantine, and Napoleon great. This appel- 
lation was given by court flunkies and flatterers. The men whose 
names shall be held in everlasting honor and love are the men who 
have done most to help and bless their kind. It is not by self-asser- 
tion, but by service and self-sacrifice, that greatness and eternal life 
are won. The audience was most respectful. A reference was 
made to George the Fourth. At that point one auditor bobbed up 
and strutted off in high dudgeon. Perhaps he was related to George 
and resented any allusion that was not complimentary. In the 
afternoon a service was conducted in Japanese by S. R. Sasaki. He 
spoke from the thirteenth chapter of First Corinthians. In the 
evening Rev. A. D. D. Fraser conducted a service of song. This ser- 
vice closed appropriately with the hymn, "Jesus, Saviour, Pilot 
Me." It was a good day. It was the most pleasant day of the voy- 
age. Several were thankful for the services, which they spoke of 
as helpful. 

The conversation at the table and on the deck is of the most 
trivial character. I have not heard a bright remark, or a noble sen- 
timent, or an anecdote worth remembering since I came on board. 
The talk is about the run, or about the food, or about the prospect 
of reaching land. Passengers are giving their mind a rest. They 
must be. They think with their teeth. What is lacking in thought 
is made up in strong language. The soup is "perfectly lovely; " 
the hash is " perfectly beautiful; " the baked beans are " perfectly 
delicious;" mangoes are "horrid; " and onions are "dreadful." 



FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA 47 

One man sleeps "magnificently." I have listened to tittle-tattle 
and extravagant expressions till my soul is sick. There is some 
advantage in being deaf and dumb. I wish we had some savage 
chief here to pronounce these misused words tabu for the next 
ninety days. Some things have been said that would be important 
if they were new or true. " Prohibition does not prohibit; " "Pro- 
hibition is a stupendous failure in Kansas and Iowa; " "Prohibi- 
tionists are fools and fanatics;" "Missionaries are on the wrong 
track; if they would teach the natives to sewer their cities and 
observe sanitary laws they would do thein good; but to send them 
the Gospel is casting pearls before swine." Some "chestnuts" 
have a tough life. The nine lives of a cat are not a circumstance in 
comparison. Men and women who know no more about these ques- 
tions than a mule knows about metaphysics talk as dogmatically as 
if they were omniscient. One passenger maintains that there are no 
gentlemen in America. There are none who came over with the 
Conqueror and fought at Hastings; there may be none that came 
from the castles on the Rhine or on the Danube. But there are 
men who have done things far nobler, and things that fairly entitle 
them to be called gentlemen. 

"Kind. hearts are more than coronets, 
And simple faith than Norman blood." 

The way American girls are being changed into Countesses and 
Duchesses and Marchionesses and Princesses shows that the nobility 
of the Old World does not consider itself essentially superior to the 
people of America. 

The books read are novels and guide-books. The novels as a 
rule are poor stuff. They indicate the caliber and culture of their 
readers. I have read "Beside the Bonnie Brier Bush" twice. I 
gave it to a Scotch missionary. He devoured it at a sitting. This 
is a noble book. No one can read it without being made better. I 
have read Froude's " Oceana," and some other solid works. I can 
understand how Stanley threw away book after book till his Bible 
only was left. The more one reads, the more this Divine Book 
becomes to him, and the more evident its immeasurable superiority 
becomes. It is at once the newest and the oldest of books. It is 
the most fascinating book to read on train or ship, in the wilder- 
ness or in the city. We are supposed to be on a vacation, 
"There is nothing but space and color and breath of the sea; no 
soil, no mail, no rail, nothing but rest and God." We drink in 
ozone from every wave and every breeze. The mind is being fer- 



48 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

tilized and invigorated. Let us hoj)e that because of this season of 
inaction it will give expression to thoughts that will shine and 
sparkle, to truths that will wake to perish never. 

A daily walk about the ship is not without interest. The sheep 
and chickens and turkeys have nearly all disappeared. They have 
found their way into the pot, and then into the human stomach, the 
final receptacle of so many things. Man claims to be "lord of the 
fowl and the brute." It would be interesting to know what 
the fowl and the brute think of this omnivorous being. The 
Japanese sleep on the upper deck. There are berths below, but 
they are stifling hot. They spread their blankets and pillows on 
the deck and lie down by the hundred. An awning keeps off the 
sun and rain. Their clothing is very simple. An average outfit 
does not cost over seventy-five cents. They wear no hat. Their 
sandals are worth about five cents a pair. They eat rice and vege- 
tables and meat, and drink tea. They smoke cigarettes or pipes. 
Women and men smoke. They gamble as continuously as the 
Chinese. No one would think from these that cleanliness was a 
national trait. One is reminded rather of the man who said he 
made it a rule to wash once a year, whether he needed it or not. 
Their babies are like babies elsewhere. They would look sweeter 
if their parents would wash them instead of shaving their heads. 
These coolies are bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh. It would 
be interesting to look into their minds and learn their hopes, fears, 
yearnings. The barrier of language keeps a stranger afar off. It 
is interesting to watch the machinery that never sleeps and never 
tires, the officers taking the log and observation, and the Chinese 
scouring the deck and polishing the brass and iron, so that the ship 
is clean and bright throughout. A cat and dog below are great 
pets of the seamen and of the passengers. Two men are in irons. 
They are partially insane, and are tied to keep them from doing 
mischief. The cabin passengers sit on their easy chairs, and read 
or flirt as they feel inclined. The married women do more flirting 
than the widows or the maidens. Only one man has been seriously 
sick, and he made no end of fun for the others. He was a fool to 
go to sea. If he gets ashore alive, he will not venture again. He 
berates the company for tossing him about, and then charging him 
for it. That is adding insult to injury. The purser told him as 
long as he could smoke he was not very sick. That was the straw 
that broke the camel's back. That made him appear a pretender. 
He got angry and got well. For two days the ship rolled a good 
deal. The passengers went tobogganing about the deck. But no 



FROM HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA 49 

one was hurt. We are as safe as if we were on shore. Our ship is 
practically unsinkable. We are in God's care and keeping. He is 
the confidence of all the ends of the earth and of them that are 
afar off upon the sea. No sparrow falls to the ground without his 
permission. Day after day we sail on, seeing no ship and no land. 
We are impressed with the vastness of this wide ocean. "It is," 
as Byron said, "boundless, endless, and sublime, the image of 
eternity." As we watch and think we are reminded of Faber's 
sweet lines: 

"There is a wideness in God's mercy, 
Like the wideness of the sea; 
There is a kindness in his justice, 
That is more than charity." 

As we approach Japan letters are written. Trunks are packed. 
The passengers are in commotion. Everybody is alive and alert* 
Those who leave the ship in Yokohama and those who do not ar& 
alike in earnest. The long voyage is over. We are safe in port. 
We have heard nothing from the great world since the 3d of 
August. We shall soon know what has happened in the meantime. 
Some will hear good news, and some doleful tidings. But God is. 
good and makes all things work according to the counsel of his own: 
will. 

4 



VIII. 
JAPAN. 

We cast anchor in the Bay of Tokyo, August 24. This is the 
bay into which Commodore Perry steamed in 1853. Then there 
were a few junks to be seen; now the Bay is covered with ships from 
all parts of the globe. It was not long before a hundred boats came 
out to take the passengers ashore. Most of the men in these boats 
wore only a loin-cloth. It was a strange sight. We felt that we 
were in a different world from the one we had left. In one of the 
boats I saw H. H. Guy and two Japanese Christians. They had 
been waiting for us for three days. A familiar face in a strange 
land is a pleasant sight. It is like rivers of water in a dry place; 
like the shadow of a great rock in a weary land. They took charge 
of me and my baggage, and in a few minutes we were on the pier 
in Yokohama. We were not detained long in the Custom House. 
The officers did not ask me to open anything. They took my word 
that I had no dutiable goods in my possession. Some did not fare 
so well. Some wealthy people had to open their trunks and display 
all their finery. 

Yokohama is the chief commercial port of Japan. Ships pass- 
ing between Australia and China and Japan and America call here. 
Yokohama is the port of Tokyo. Both cities are situated on the 
same Bay. Seventy- five years ago Yokohama was a village of 
eighty-seven houses; now it has a population of 110,000. The for- 
eign part resembles an English city. The streets are narrow; the 
buildings are solid and unattractive ; the business for the most part 
is conducted by Englishmen. The merchants are not there for 
their health or for any benevolent purpose. They are there for the 
money they can make. They charge much more for their goods 
than men do at home. Some of them are warm friends of missions 
and illustrate in their own lives the truths of the Gospel, but not 
all. If all who come here from Christian lands were Christians in 
deed and in truth, the work of evangelizing Japan would be much 
easier than it is. At the same time it is admitted that these men 
have made a substantial contribution to the advancement of Japan. 
They have introduced new methods and new appliances, and have 

50 



JAPAN 51 

insisted on the rights and the worth of the individual as the Japa- 
nese did not. Yokohama has its temples and churches and art 
stores and other places of interest. In one temple an idol sits on a 
rock amid flames of fire, having a two-edged sword in the right 
hand and a rope in the left. The meaning is said to be this : It 
cuts asunder vile thoughts with the sword, purifies the mind with 
the fire, ties up passions with the rope and keeps them completely 
under the sway of reason. How many worshipers understand this 
is not stated. 

A ride of two miles in a jinricksha brought us to the railroad 
depot. A jinricksha is a little wagon hauled by a man. The two 
wheels are about four feet high. It has a cover for rainy weather. 
The jinricksha was invented by a missionary who had a sick wife. 
This is now the chief means of going about in Japan. A man will 
run along at the rate of six miles an hour. The passenger is 
expected to get out and walk up steep hills. The fare is three and 
a half cents an hour. The jinrfcksha men form a guild. This is 
their life > work. For a young man this seems well enough, but 
when a man gets past sixty or seventy it does seem that he ought to 
have a lighter task. These little carriages fill the streets. There 
are thousands of them in every city. They have the right of way. 
The Japanese seldom drive horses. You see a few hauling carts or 
serving as pack-horses. But they are slow, sad brutes. They do 
not look as if they had a spark of ambition in them. Their harness 
is cumbersome and uncouth. It is enough to make a self-respect- 
ing animal wish he could hide or kill himself. The weight comes 
on the collar and on the saddle. The horses used by the police and 
in the army are fine animals. Oxen are used in the same way. 
They draw by a rope fastened about their necks. If the load was 
heavy it would choke them. Horses and oxen are sometimes shod 
with straw shoes. Most of the hauling is done by human beings. 
You can see them hauling timber, stones, rice and charcoal in bulk, 
iron castings, and supplies of every kind. The jinricksha makes 
good time, but it is not a comfortable carriage, and a passenger is 
glad when he reaches his destination. A stranger cannot help but 
think of and pity the coolie who bears him along. 

A ride of eighteen miles on a railroad brought us to Tokyo. 
The railroad is of the English pattern. The cars are divided into 
compartments. One can go first, or second, or third class. The 
fare is very reasonable. One can travel third-class for half a cent a 
mile; second-class for less than one cent; or first-class for less 
than two cents. We passed through rice, millet, sugar-cane and 



52 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

cotton fields; along pear orchards and lotus beds ; past temples and 
picturesque villages of Old Japan. Reaching Tokyo, we took a jin- 
ricksha for our home, a distance of four miles. There is a street 
railway in this city, but it did not go our way. We were glad when 
we reached the mission premises. We were most cordially wel- 
comed by Mrs. Guy. Tokyo is a city of over a million souls. It 
covers one hundred square miles. Since the Revolution of 1868 it 
has been the capital. 

Japan is called the Land of the Rising Sun. The Empire con- 
sists of four large islands and three thousand small ones. It has an 
area of 147,000 square miles. It is about as large as California. 
The greater part of Japan is covered with mountains. Only about 
twelve per cent of the land is cultivated, or can be cultivated. 
These islands are of volcanic formation. The earthquake shocks 
number about five hundred a year. Rice and cotton are raised in 
great abundance on the main island. Tea and silk are also raised. 
One-half the value of all the exports comes from raw silk; and the 
larger part of the remainder comes from tea. In the southern 
islands cotton, rice, tobacco, sugar, sweet potatoes, oranges, yams 
and other fruits of a warm latitude flourish. In the Shinto tem- 
ples in early times prayers were offered for the growth of rice, 
millet, barley, beans and sorghum. Millet, barley and beans are the 
principal articles of food among the country people ; with the city 
people rice is the great staple. The land is always made to bear 
two crops a year. 

Little is known about the origin of the Japanese people. The 
authorities are not agreed. One man thinks they are the descend- 
ants of the Ten Tribes. Another thinks they are of the same stock 
as our North American Indians. The more probable view is that 
they are Mongols. It is likely that they are a mixed race. The 
Ainu were the aborigines of Japan. They live now in the northern 
part of the Empire. They are a hairy people. Their food and 
clothing and houses are of the most primitive character. They sel- 
dom wash themselves or their clothes. They worship rocks, rivers, 
and mountains. They are afraid of the spirits. The Mongolians 
reached Japan, so it is thought, by way of Korea. They drove out 
or exterminated most of the aborigines. In some cases they inter- 
married. The Japanese in the main have "yellowish skin, the 
straight hair, the scanty beard, the broadish skull, the more or less 
oblique eyes, and the high cheek bones, which characterize all well- 
established branches of the Mongol race." But some have full and 
long beards. Some are as fair as if they were Caucasians. It is 



JAPAN 53 

with some difficulty that they can be distinguished from them. 
The average height of the Japanese men is 5.02 feet; of the 
women, 4.66 feet. It will be seen that they are a small race. 
Yet some of them are fine, large fellows. The population of the 
Empire is nearly 41,000,000. Most of the people live in cities and 
villages. 

For more than a thousand years the government was an absolute 
monarchy. The Mikado was a descendant of the Sun-Goddess, and 
held in his hand the supreme authority. He selected some one of 
his own sons or some prince of the imperial family to succeed him. 
It was customary for Mikados to abdicate and go into retirement. 
Thus one began to reign when he was nine and abdicated when he 
was twenty-six. Another began to reign at eight and abdicated at 
twenty-three. Another began to reign at five and abdicated at 
twenty. Another still began to reign at two and abdicated at four. 
There were as many as four or five Mikados living at the same time. 
The Mikado that resigned was said to ascend to the rank of an abdi- 
cated, Mikado. It often happened that the Mikado had no choice 
in the matter. The men who had the power wanted to keep it in 
their own hands. If a Mikado began to assert his independence, he 
was forced to give way to some one who would be more obedient to 
his masters. Nominally, the Mikado was supreme; really, he was a 
puppet in the hands of his ministers. One family monopolized all 
the important offices of the government for four hundred years. 
The wives and concubines of the emperors were taken from that 
family. Other families were jealous of this one. As a result, there 
were plots and counterplots, and wars and rumors of wars. Fur- 
thermore, it was customary for men who had reached middle life to 
retire. It was not deemed becoming for a man to engage in the tug 
for wealth and power till old age. The abdicated Mikados some- 
times had their wives and court, and exercised far more influence 
than while they were on the throne. 

For seven hundred years the government of Japan was dual. 
There were two Emperors, one a spiritual and one a tem- 
poral. The Mikado lived in seclusion and was seen by no one but 
his wives and ministers. He was taught that it was unfitting that a 
descendant of the gods should mingle in ordinary earthly affairs. 
The administration of the government was left to the Shogun. In 
theory the Mikado was still the source of all authority, but the 
Shogun wielded all power. The Mikado lived in Kyoto ; the Sho- 
gun lived in Yedo. Sometimes the Shogun was dealt with as was 
the Mikado. All power was taken from him and was exercised by 



54 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

his chief retainers. At such times the government was a triple 
one. But the Shogun was not a son of the gods, and could be dis- 
placed by a successful general of another clan. This happened 
several times. There grew up around the Shogunate a feudal sys- 
tem. The land was divided by the Shogun among his followers. 
By so doing he bound them to his house. The feudal barons gov- 
erned their own provinces. They assessed and collected taxes, 
made roads and bridges, promoted education, punished crime, 
enforced contracts. In Japan there was no such thing as law ema- 
nating from the capital. Below these feudal barons were the 
Samurai. They were the fighting class. Below these again were 
the farmers, artisans and merchants. 

Japan was "the land of the gods." Other peoples were bar- 
barians, and the sacred soil must not be polluted with their pres- 
ence. This could not continue. China and California being 
opened to trade, Japan, lying between, must be opened also. 
There must be ports into which ships couldgo in a storm, and into 
which they could go for coal and provisions in time of need. The 
shipwrecked must be cared for. The opening of Japan became a 
necessity. Commodore Perry visited Japan in 1853. He bore a 
letter from President Fillmore to the Emperor. He had four ships 
in his squadron. Such a force had never been seen in Japanese 
waters. The officials wanted him to leave, but he would not till he 
had executed his commission. He was determined to exhaust every 
peaceful resource before resorting to coercive measures. A Japan- 
ese writer says that it was fortunate that Japan was not brought 
into contact with the world earlier than it was. Had it been, it 
might have fared as did Mexico and Peru. He regards Perry as 
one of the greatest friends of humanity the earth has seen. Unlike 
Cortes and Pizarro and Clive, he woke up a hermit nation without 
wounding its pride. The next year Perry returned for an answer to 
the President's letter. The upshot of this expedition was that a 
treaty of peace and amity between the two nations was formed. 
Two ports were opened for trade; coal and provisions were to be 
furnished American ships when they needed them ; the shipwrecked 
were to be cared for, and Consuls or agents of the United States 
were to be allowed to settle in Japan. The Empire being opened 
to our nation, it must open its gates to all. In dealing with the 
foreigners the right of the Shogun to make treaties was called in 
question. The conservatives gathered about the Mikado in Kyoto. 
The blame of admitting the hated foreigners and making treaties 
with them was laid at the Shogun's door. Japan was awakening; 



JAPAN 55 

from the slumber of ages. A dual government was felt to be an 
anachronism. Feudalism was felt to be a thing of the past. 
Embassies were sent to Europe and America. They reported what 
they saw and heard. The Shogun was urged to resign. He did so, 
and the office was abolished. The feudal barons surrendered 
powers which they had held for centuries. The Mikado emerged 
from the seclusion in which he had lived, and took part in the 
affairs of the nation. To emphasize the change that had taken 
place, he removed his capital from Kyoto to Yedo, and changed the 
name of the city to Tokyo. 

The change could not stop with the termination of the Sho- 
gunate and the feudal system. If Japan was to preserve its inde- 
pendence, it must have a modern army and navy; it must have 
schools of all grades; it must have a postal system, the telegraph, 
railways; it must disestablish Buddhism and cease to persecute 
Christianity. All this has been done, and much more. Once all 
ships over fifty tons were burned. Only the junks remained. 
Japan has now as fine ships of war as any other nation. Her postal 
system is unexcelled. Nor is this all. Absolutism has granted a 
constitution. The Emperor has sworn to forego many of the 
powers claimed by his predecessors. This ruler, desiring to pro- 
mote the welfare of, and to give development to, the moral and 
intellectual faculties of his subjects, and hoping to maintain the 
prosperity of the state, gave the constitution. In this document it 
is said that no Japanese shall be arrested, detained, tried or pun- 
ished, unless according to law. The right of property of every 
Japanese subject shall remain inviolate. Except in special cases no 
house shall be entered or searched without the consent of the owner. 
The constitution is not perfect, but it is a great stride in advance. 
The Emperor exercises the legislative power with the consent 
of the Imperial Diet. He declares war, makes peace, and con- 
cludes treaties. He and his successors shall rule in an unbroken 
line for eternal ages. The suffrage is based on property and not on 
manhood. This disfranchises the bulk of the nation. But making 
all deductions and abatements, it must be conceded that a new day 
has dawned on Japan. A.nd as revolutions never go backward we 
may feel sure that what has been accomplished is only an earnest of 
what is to come. 



IX. 
MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN. 

The morning was cool and bright. After breakfast and worship 
Mr. and Mrs. Guy took me to see the first Sunday-school. The 
hour of meeting was eight o'clock. The school met in one of the 
buildings used for the charity schools. The first piece sung was 
Knowles Shaw's noble hymn, "Bringing in the Sheaves." Imagine 
my feelings on listening to a hymn written by one of our own illus- 
trious men ! It was like meeting an old friend in a strange land. 
In his youth, Knowles Shaw was wild and wayward. He went to 
balls, and played the fiddle while the others danced. This wild lad 
gave his heart to God. His was a thorough and genuine conver- 
sion. He preached and won thousands to the faith. His sweet 
songs have been naturalized in every land, and are sung round the 
globe. He died in the prime of life, but his work abides. The 
Scripture was read and prayer offered. Kodaira San, Mrs. Guy's 
Bible woman, taught the children. The lesson was " Christ Send- 
ing Out the Twelve." The children responded to the questions as 
promptly and as heartily as at home. This was my introduction to 
the work in Japan. Here, in a non-Christian land, children were 
being taught of God. My soul was deeply stirred. One little girl 
was pointed out by Mrs. Guy. Her father was a soldier and was 
killed in the war. Her mother was left with several children. 
Because of her poverty she feels that she must sell this child. God 
only knows all that that means. If she is sold, she will be doomed 
to a life of shame and sorrow. Such things are not uncommon in 
this land. But when a child that we have known and loved is thus 
sold, we feel differently. Mrs. Guy hopes to be able to take this 
girl into her own home, and bring her up in the nurture and admo- 
nition of the Lord. 

At nine o'clock we went to another school. The singing and 
the responses were as hearty here as at the other. The lesson was 
"The Transfiguration of Christ." Some of the children had faces 
as bright and as full of interest as one can see in the schools of 
America. They sang "Jesus Loves Me," and "When He Com- 
eth," as if they understood and believed them. Others were there 

56 




1. Dr. Nina Stevens. 
5. Dr. Verbeck. 



3. Mr. and Mrs. M. B. Madden. 

4. C. E. Garst. 

TOKYO, JAPAN. 



2. Miss Wirick. 
6. E. S. Stevens. 



MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN 57 

for the first time. Their faces were blank and dull. They did not 
know what to expect. A few were suffering from some disease. 
Their heads were covered with blotches and knobs. Evidently the 
sins of the fathers are being visited upon their children to the third 
and fourth generations. One of the workers testifies that he is sur- 
prised in finding how much Bible truth has been sown by the chil- 
dren taught in the Sunday-schools. They carry the essence and the 
aroma of the Gospel into homes that are closed to the Bible 
women. Parents say that their children tell every night what they 
have learned in the Bible. The mother of one of the smallest and 
most uninteresting girls told the missionary that she had heard 
about Christ from her little girl, and wanted to hear more. So the 
Scripture is fulfilled — "A little child shall lead them." 

At half past ten there was a preaching service; Nishioka San 
spoke. He urged his hearers to bring forth fruits meet for repent- 
ance. He set forth what the Lord required of them as his 
redeemed children. After the sermon we had the communion. 
We sat together in heavenly places in Christ, and partook of the 
emblems of his broken body and shed blood. I trust we drank 
deeply into his spirit at the same time. The service was orderly 
and impressive. The audience gave earnest heed to the words that 
were spoken. Though I did not understand what was said, I felt, 
" Surely God is in this place. This is none other than the house of 
God, and this is the gate of heaven." We were separated by race 
and by language, and by habits of thought and life, but we were 
one in Christ. For in one Spirit were we all baptized into one 
body, whether Japanese or American, and were all made to drink 
of one Spirit. I was asked to say a few words. Emai San inter- 
preted for me. After the benediction I was introduced to all 
present. I was assured over and over again that I was a welcome 
visitor. The people of Japan do not shake hands. The women do 
not kiss each other. They salute by bowing low and bowing 
repeatedly. Each strives to go lower than the other. 

In the evening we had a sermon from Emai San from the text, 
"Blessed are they that mourn : for they shall be comforted." At 
this service a young man made the good confession and was bap- 
tized. The audience came forward to congratulate him. They did 
this by bowing low and speaking a few appropriate words. So the 
Gospel runs and is glorified. The good seed is sown at all hours, 
according to the Divine command: "In the morning sow thy seed, 
and in the evening withhold not thine hand; for thou canst not tell 
which will prosper, either this or that, or whether both will be 



58 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

alike good." Some may fall on rocky ground, or among thorns, or 
by the wayside, but some will surely fall on good ground and bring 
forth fruit a hundred or a thousand fold. God's word shall not 
return to him void, but shall accomplish that which he pleases, and 
prosper in the thing whereunto he has sent it. There is in the 
grounds of one of the temples in Japan a young tree growing out of 
a mammoth stump. One is alive and vigorous; the other is dead, 
and must give place and feed the new life that has grown out of its 
heart. One must increase ; the other must decrease. So it is with 
the Gospel in Japan. It must prosper and prevail, for it is alive 
and has in it the power of an endless life. At the close of each 
service the audience sat down and engaged in silent prayer for a 
few moments. This was better than if they had slapped each other 
on the back, or proceeded to light their cigars, or to talk about the 
baseball score, or any other irrelevent topic. There was no flirting 
or writing of notes. The young men did not take the young ladies 
to church or escort them home. There is no courtship in Japan. 
Marriage is arranged for by middlemen, and not by the parties most 
deeply concerned. The young people get married, but they miss a 
deal of fun. 

The audience was a study. It was evident that some were with- 
out Christ. Their faces were hopelessly sad. How could these 
people be happy? Life with them is an incessant struggle after 
food and raiment. The catechism which they repeat every morning 
is this: "What shall I eat? What shall I drink? And where- 
withal shall I be clothed? " There is nothing in their experience or 
in their horizon to fill them with hope and joy. Their worship in 
the temples does not elevate and spiritualize them. The priests are 
no better. There is as much animation in the face of a mummy as 
there is in theirs. They have blank, leathery faces. The faces of 
the Christians are very different. The face of Mrs. Guy's teacher 
shines as the face of Moses did when he came down from the 
mountain. She has seen the glory of the Lord. She is busily 
engaged in his service and she has entered into his joy. The Gospel 
makes beautiful faces. So it is said, " But we all, with unveiled 
face reflecting as a mirror the glory of the Lord, are transformed 
into the same image from glory to glory, even as from the Lord the 
Spirit." The first convert in Japan has a handsome face. It is 
intelligent and spiritual. The same thing is seen at home. People 
come into the church, and their faces have no expression and no 
illumination. They look as if they were carved out of a turnip. 
After they are in harness for a season they are transfigured. Their 



MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN 5» 

faces look like porcelain that has a light within. In the church 
and on the street I have watched the faces of the people. The 
young are pretty. This is especially true of the girls. They marry 
young and they age young. It is said that there is no word in 
Japanese for "oldniaid." All of a marriageable age are married. 
Mothers do not wean their children till they are six or seven years 
old. Sometimes a woman nurses three children at the same time. 
Their vitality is sucked out of them. Small wonder that they fade 
early in life. As they grow older they lose the beauty of youth, 
and there is no other to take its place. One sees few handsome 
faces among the old in Japan. In Christian lands this is not the 
case. Nor is it the case here among the believers. As Christians 
advance in years they grow more handsome and more attractive. 
The hoary head when found in the way of righteousness has a 
glory and a beauty far surpassing anything that youth can show. 
As the outward man perishes, the inward man is renewed day by 
day. 

The oldest man I met in the Tokyo church has a fine face. He 
has been ennobled and glorified by the Gospel. Some of the 
women in the audience had black teeth. That signifies that they 
are married, and that they are not believers. It is not known how 
this abominable custom originated. Perhaps some jealous husbands 
compelled their wives to black their teeth, as in other lands they 
cut off their wives' noses so that their neighbors would not fall in 
love with them. The present Empress and the missionaries use 
their influence against this practice. It is doomed to disappear. 
There were some Buddhist women present. The workers hope that 
they will yet be won to the faith. They are kept back by the ties 
that bind them to the graves of their kindred and by their associa- 
tions with the temples. They are a part of a great system, and it is 
not easy to prevail upon them to come out and take the conse- 
quences. Many have done this already, and many more will cer- 
tainly do so. 

As we went to church and as we returned we saw that there is 
no Sunday in Japan. That is an infallible proof that we are in a 
non-Christian land. The schools, banks, government offices, and 
some stores in the Foreign Concession are closed, but the people as 
a whole work away as usual. There is no difference on the streets 
or in the workshops and stores. In the temples one day is like 
another. The only difference is in the feast days. The people feel 
that they cannot afford to rest one day in seven. They think they 
would starve if they did. Oue of the serious problems the mission- 



60 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

aries have to deal with grows out of the non-observance of the 
Lord's day. If a convert is employed by an unbeliever, his employer 
may, and often does, insist on having his service every day in the 
week. Should the servant lose his place he may lose his good name 
at the same time. The Japanese work not only every day in the 
week, but early and late as well. They think they could not live if 
they worked only ten hours a day. Merchants are at their place of 
business at three or four in the morning and remain there till nine 
or ten in the evening, or even later. The same is true, to a great 
extent, of mechanics. True, they do not work under our high 
pressure. Flesh and blood could not stand that. They are poor 
and they keep working constantly, hoping thereby to keep the wolf 
from the door. With all her industry Japan is a poor nation. She 
cannot compare with the nations that observe the Lord's day, and 
that labor ten hours or less a day. " It is vain to rise up early and 
sit up late, and to eat the bread of sorrows, for so he giveth his 
beloved sleep." On Sunday night the streets were unusually full 
of people, and the merchants were selling more goods than in the 
day. The explanation given was that women of the middle class, 
not having servants, were ashamed to be seen buying and carrying 
home their purchases by day. They wait till it is dark, and then go 
out and buy what they need and carry it home. 

The cholera officers swarm everywhere. Already 17,000 have 
fallen victims of this disease this year. In Tokyo one hundred die 
a day. The people are poor and half starved. They have no 
strength to withstand the plague. If they had robust constitutions 
and superabounding vitality, the rate of mortality would be very 
much lower. The lack of proper sanitary conditions has con- 
tributed to the ravages of the cholera. In some respects the Jap- 
anese are the cleanest people in the world; in other respects they 
are far from this. They bathe themselves several times a day. 
They wash and scour their houses continually. They think Ameri- 
cans and Europeans extremely filthy. But an American city is far 
cleaner and far [more wholesome than a Japanese. A city with few 
or no sewers can not be clean. The stenches in certain parts of 
Japanese hotels and homes are insufferable. Where all the filth 
and offal are kept rotting under the same roof as that which covers 
the family and the guests, the place can not be healthy. It is not 
strange that the Japanese fall beneath this pestilence as grass 
before the reaper. It would be strange indeed if they did not, 

That night several thoughts were suggested by the experiences 
of the day. As in the first Christian century, so now the wise and 



MY FIRST SUNDAY IN JAPAN 61 

noble and great, as a class, stand aloof. They were not in the Sun- 
day-school nor in the church. They glory in their wisdom and 
power and station. They feel that they are rich and need nothing. 
A few of the highest class have been won to the faith. Among 
these are the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, several judges of 
the Court of Appeals, a Cabinet Minister, the Vice-President of the 
Lower House and several members of the same. But now, as then, 
God chooses the things that are not to bring to naught the things 
that are, that no flesh should glory in his presence. The things 
that are hid from the wise and prudent are revealed unto babes. 
"Even so, Father, for so it seemed good in thy sight." It is easy 
to see why our Lord likened the kingdom of God to a child. It is 
the humble and teachable spirit that enters therein. 

Man and beast need one day in seven for rest. They do more 
and live longer in consequence. Man needs bread, but he does not 
live by bread alone. He has a stomach to feed and a back to clothe, 
but he is a soul. We need time for thought and memory and hope. 
We cannot be profitably engaged from youth to old age in "the 
tug for wealth and power, the vain low strife that makes men mad 
and wastes their little hour." We are made in the image of God 
and capable of entertaining thoughts that wander through eternity. 
Who can tell how much the Lord's day has been worth to Scotland, 
to England and to America? Who can tell how much it has been 
worth to himself? We need to be admonished frequently, for we 
forget so soon. "This is the day the Lord has made; we will 
rejoice and be glad in it." 

"Thou art a port protected 

From storms that round us rise; 
A garden intersected 
With streams of Paradise." 

Japan has taken long strides in the right direction, but Japan is 
yet very far from being a Christian nation. Some thought at one 
time that by the close of the present century the work of the mis- 
sionaries would be done. Some expected that Christianity would 
be adopted as the national religion. This expectation is not likely 
to be realized. Government offices and banks and schools may be 
closed on Sunday by an imperial edict or by an Act of Parliament, 
but not thus can the heart of the nation be touched and renewed. 
The presence and services of the missionaries will long be needed. 
While Japan is not yet Christian, there are forces at work that are 
destined to effect this great change. In the Roman Empire there 
were numerous groups of believers. The statesmen of that day did 



02 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

not think them worthy of notice. If a historian spoke of them it 
was with a sneer. Christianity was to the wise of that time " a 
detestable superstition." But from these little groups of believers 
influences went forth that changed customs, literature, laws, wor- 
ship, life and everything. So shall it be in Japan. As we bowed 
that night around the family altar we thought of our Lord's words, 
"I beheld Satan as lightning fall from heaven." The victory was 
prospective, but it was as certain as if it had been an accomplished 
fact. 

" Jesus shall reign where'er the sun 
Does his successive journeys run, 
His kingdom spread from shore to shore 
Till moons shall was and wane no more." 



X. 

A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN. 

In order that I might see Japan to the greatest advantage and 
in the shortest time practicable, it was thought by the missionaries 
that it would be well for me to visit the churches in the north of 
the Empire first; after that, see the work in Tokyo and Yokohama; 
and after that again, see the leading cities of the South, namely, 
Kobe, Osaka, Kyoto and Nagasaki. The first thing to do was to 
secure a passport. This can now be had for the asking. No one 
can travel in Japan or live outside the Foreign Concessions without 
a passport. There is a reason for this. If a foreigner should com- 
mit any crime, he cannot be tried in a Japanese court. If a native 
has a claim against a foreigner the same is true. He can be tried 
only before the Consul of the nation to which he belongs. The 
Japanese Government can not try him in its own courts for violat- 
ing its laws, but it can recall his passport, and thereby compel him 
to live in the Foreign Concession or leave the country. Every for- 
eigner in Japan is located. He is constantly under police surveil- 
lance. Before you are in a hotel five minutes a policeman calls and 
asks to see your passport. The proprietor of the hotel records your 
name and number. So before you can buy a railroad ticket you 
must produce your passport and thus convince the agent that you 
have the Emperor's consent to travel within his domain. A child in 
arms, no less than his parents, must have a passport in order to go 
anywhere. When the new treaties go into effect in 1899, this nui- 
sance will be abated. Then foreigners can go and come at will. 
Then, too, Consular courts will be abolished, and foreigners and 
natives must appear before the same tribunals and answer for any 
charges preferred against them. Ten years ago it was a difficult 
matter to get a passport.^ It took weeks and months and no small 
amount of pressure to secure this document from reluctant officials. 
Now it can be had in a few minutes and without any charge or any 
condition. 

It was arranged that Mr. and Mrs. Guy should act as my escorts 
part of the way. They are most agreeable traveling companions. 
The baby went along and added immensely to our joy. A little 

63 



64 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

child makes the whole world kin. Dignified judges and lawmakers 
unbent and noticed us because of the pretty boy. When you are in 
a strange land and do not understand a word of the language, and 
the people do not understand a word of what you say, you are in a 
helpless and pitiable condition. At such a time you find it hard to 
entertain a very high opinion of those men whose misconduct in 
building the Tower of Babel caused the confusion of tongues. I 
have not been left for an instant without an interpreter, and so 
have gotten along smoothly enough. Had I been left without a 
guardian I should have fared differently. Our first stop was at 
Nikko. Here I had my first experience in a Japanese hotel. The 
proprietor and his wife and chief clerk and all the servants in sight 
bowed their heads to the earth as we approached. They assured us 
that we did well in coming. After removing our shoes we were 
shown to our rooms. There was neither chair nor table in sight. 
The only furniture in the room was a recess with a scroll hanging in 
it. Some mats were brought in and we were asked to sit down. I 
tried to sit on my feet, but it was not a brilliant success. Either 
my feet are too large, or my backbone is too long, or my joints are 
not constructed properly. Perhaps if my ancestors had been accus- 
tomed to sit on their feet for " ages eternal," to borrow a Japanese 
phrase, I could do it as easily and as gracefully as the natives, but 
with all my efforts and good intentions, I must confess that I can 
not. My guardian apologizes for me when guests are in the room. 
The first thing brought in is a tray containing a little fire and a spit- 
toon. Smoking is universal in Japan. The priests in the temple 
and the teachers in the schools and the people in the theaters 
smoke. The pipe holds only a pinch of tobacco. Four or five 
jDuffs exhaust it. The cost of smoking on this scale is not more 
than two cents a week. They could not smoke as Americans do on 
their incomes. The next thing brought in is another tray contain- 
ing tea and sweets. The cups hold a tablespoonful. The tea is 
served without cream or sugar. In a Japanese hotel there is no 
dining-room where all the guests eat. You eat in your own room. 
The bill of fare is different from that served in American hotels. 
It has no bread, no butter, no cheese, no potatoes, seldom any meat, 
no tea or coffee, no pepper or salt. Rice is the main dish, and is 
cooked and served without seasoning. Besides rice, you have fish, 
soup, eggs in some form, and vegetables, either fresh or pickled. 
These last are intended to be relishes. Each guest has his own 
food on a lacquered tray. This tray is placed before you on the 
floor. You find no knife or fork or spoon; chopsticks answer all 



A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 65 

purposes. It is astonishing to see how deftly a native can dispose 
of any dish with chopsticks. I tried mine. I got them by the 
wrong end, and could not make them lift anything. When I got a 
piece of food so that I could move it I could not find my mouth. 
The little maid, with all her inborn and inbred politeness, could not 
help laughing outright. In her own mind she set me down as a 
full-fledged barbarian. The food is clean and palatable and digesti- 
ble. You look about for a washstand and find none. You are 
expected to carry your own soap and towel and to go to the public 
wash-room whenever it suits your convenience. Travelers carry 
their own pillows, sheets, mosquito bar, and insect powder. The 
hotel supplies the floor and some rugs. The mats and thatched 
roofs of Japanese houses afford fleas a superb refuge. If you wish 
to sleep in peace you must protect yourself. With all this protec- 
tion a bed on the floor is not quite to the taste of a pampered 
American who has been accustomed to a mattress with springs 
under it. The bath is a curiosity. The water is kept at a point 
near boiling. One water lasts the whole day. The family and 
the guests are expected to use it. Some fastidious persons object 
to this feature of a Japanese bath. Knowing that we were 
likely to have some scruples on this point, the clerk came to us and 
told us that the bath was ready. We asked him if it had been used 
since it was filled. He said that it had not. He added that a 
Korean had been in it, but a little thing like that did not count 
with him. Before lying down to sleep you try to lock your room. 
You can not lock it. Three sides are screens and can be lifted out 
bodily. The screens are made of paper. There is no door with 
hinges that you can lock. A burglar or a rat could walk in any 
hour of the day or night. You put your valuables inside your fly- 
net and sleep the sleep of the weary. The people about the hotel 
are all politeness. They bow when we go out, and assure us that we 
shall be welcome when we return. We come back, and they bow 
again and thank us for our kindness. Fancy an American hotel 
clerk bumping the floor with the top of his head whenever a guest 
went out or came in ! When we left, each one received a present 
and a letter of recommendation to other hotels. For our food and 
lodging we paid sixty cents a day. In other hotels in the interior 
we paid twenty-five cents. Aside from this difference in price, one 
hotel is like another hotel. All have the same bill of fare. 

The Japanese have a proverb to the effect that no one ought to 
use the word " magnificent " till he has seen Nikko. Chamberlain 

says of this place that it has a double glory — a glory of nature and a. 
5 



G6 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

glory of art. "Mountains, cascades, and monumental forest trees, 
liad always stood there." Japanese artists have produced there the 
most perfect assemblage of shrines in the whole land. One of the 
greatest of the Shoguns, the founder of a dynasty that swayed 
the destinies of Japan for two hundred and fifty years, lies buried 
above the temples. His grandson, a man almost equally renowned 
in Japanese history, is also buried there. Their family and friends 
spared neither pains nor money to make the grounds and buildings 
near their tombs as magnificent as possible. The temples are square 
wooden buildings. Externally there is nothing striking or beautiful 
about them. They do not compare in either size or grandeur with 
the cathedrals of Europe. They were not built to accommodate 
great audiences. Men and women go to Nikko to worship, but not 
in our sense or according to our method. They pray for a few 
seconds in one place, and then hasten on to another place, and so 
continue till they have made the rounds of every temple and pagoda 
and shrine within the inclosure. People do not visit this place to 
hear words of instruction or admonition from the lips of some elo- 
quent preacher. For this reason no vast auditorium is needed. 
The glory and the beauty of these buildings are seen within. In the 
Buddhist temples there are numerous idols. You may see the 
Buddha in pure gold, and the Goddess of Mercy, and Fudo, and 
many others. On the walls and on the ceilings are the works of the 
most famous Japanese artists. They have carved lions, tigers, 
dragons, cats, flowers and trees of almost every kind, birds and 
sages. In one group there are three monkeys. One has his hands 
on his eyes, another on his ears, another on his mouth. The lesson 
is that a good man should have neither eyes nor ears nor mouth for 
evil things. In one shrine we saw the sacred horse. One of the 
gods of the place rides on him when he goes out. We inquired as 
to his pedigree and age and record and value, but could get no 
answers. He is selected because he has four white feet. More 
magnificent than the temples and the grounds are the trees in and 
about Nikko. There is an avenue of white cedars which extends 
for twenty miles toward Tokyo. Along this avenue the mighty Sho- 
guns were borne by their retainers when they went to Nikko to 
worship the gods and to make offerings to the spirits of their ances- 
tors. There are tens of thousands of those noble trees about the 
grounds. They lift their massive trunks a hundred feet or more 
into the air. It is a most glorious vision. We stayed there a day 
longer than we expected because we heard that some friends were 
on their way to Nikko to see us. 



A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 67 

Our next stop was at Hanobuchi. The Garst family were 
•spending a few weeks there. Miss Alice Miller and W. K. Azbill 
were visiting them. We had a warm welcome. The house in 
which we ate and slept and talked cost only sixty dollars, but we 
were as comfortable and as joyful as if we had been in a palace. 
Several missionaries from Sendai and the region round about were 
spending their vacation at this place. They asked me to speak to 
them on Sunday afternoon. After the service we walked over to a 
Shinto temple and some shrines in a grove about a mile distant. 
This temple is said to be two hundred and fifty years old. In one 
small shrine there is a wooden horse. His worshipers have thrown 
in beside him about fifty pairs of straw shoes. The rice placed in 
his manger supplies the mice and rats with food. On the way 
home we walked through the village. The people are fishermen 
and farmers. The children ran about the streets naked. The men 
and women wore scant clothing. The dogs barked at us as if we 
were intruders. On our return we canvassed the situation. It was 
agreed that Mr. and Mrs. Garst should go with me to Akita and the 
adjacent towns. They had lived in the North, and knew the people 
and the roads. 

Monday morning we were off. That night we reached the point 
where we were to leave the railroad. On reaching our hotel a 
policeman called to inspect our passports. He had hardly gone 
when the hotel clerk came in and asked permission to record the 
same. He spent twenty minutes examining the outside of the 
envelopes. Not finding what he wanted, he touched the floor with 
the top of his head, and asked if he might examine the contents of 
the envelopes. He asked our ages and caste. He was told that we 
belonged to the heavenly caste. After an hour or so he took his 
leave. About midnight he was back again. He begged to see our 
passports once more. The names of the Garst children were on 
both passports, and the children were not present. That fact must 
be reported to the authorities in Tokyo. 

The next morning we were in our jinrickshas at six. We 
reached our destination a little after midnight. We made fifty 
miles that day. We had two men each, and changed men eight 
times. Most of the day we were climbing the mountains. The 
scenery is as fine as can be found in West Virginia. The roads 
are well made. The bridges are narrow and slight. No heavy 
loads pass over them. At one town on the way we met two 
believers, and had a service with them in the hotel. One is a trav- 
eling merchant. They were urged to be ready for every good work. 



68 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Opportunities are constantly presenting themselves; they were 
taught to be prepared to make the most of them. The day was the 
Shinto "All Saints' Day." It was the day for making offerings at 
the graves of their ancestors and for feasting and for attending the 
temples. Such a day usually ends with a general spree. For this 
reason we found it difficult toward evening to get men. By patient 
and persistent effort we succeeded. We reached our hotel a little 
weary, but thankful that no evil had befallen us, and that this was 
the point for which we started. On Wednesday we left Yuzawa 
for Innai, a town twenty miles distant. We visited the public 
school of this place. One of the Akita Christians teaches here. 
When she was studying the claims of Christianity, she sat up late 
on winter nights without any fire. Her father asked her why she 
did so. She said she would go to sleep if she was warm. As long 
as she was cold she would keep awake. There are seven teachers- 
and four hundred pupils in this school. As long as we were in 
sight the children yelled with all their might. Probably we were 
the first Caucasians they had seen. Our visit was an event in their 
lives. We were introduced to the principal and to several of his 
assistants. He smoked his pipe and drank his tea, and paid very 
little attention to us. He bowed very slightly when we entered and 
when we left. He feels as large as the Mikado. Perhaps he is. 
Innai is a mining town. Kudo San is the evangelist. Besides 
preaching, he has a school of seventy scholars. The audience at 
this point was made up mostly of young men. They were really 
fine-looking fellows. The address was based on the words, "I 
have written unto you, young men, because ye are strong, and the 
word of Grod abideth in you; and ye have overcome the evil one." 
In the midst of a rough population these young men live so that 
their lives commend the Gospel to the people. As one result, the 
community is becoming more favorable to Christianity. As- 
another result, believers are being added to the Lord. We are told 
that the church is made up of young men, because the young are 
more easily won than the old. It is made up mostly of men, 
because no Bible woman has been here to work among the women. 
After the service we returned to Yuzawa and had a second service 
there. The teacher whom we saw in the morning came back with 
us. She traveled forty miles that she might join in the service. 
There are two or three believers in this place. They meet to break 
bread. Yuzawa is a dark place. The believers were exhorted to let 
their light shine. The next morning we were on the road before 
sunrise. We wanted to make fifty miles, but fell short five. It 



A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 69 

was election day, and the politicians were about. Many of the men 
were still drunk, and we could not go as far as we wished. 

On Friday we went to Arakawa. The church in this place has 
quite a history. A Christian from Akita went there to work in the 
mines. By his zeal and devotion he led another to Christ. These 
two won others. They built a little chapel. The owner of the 
mine is a zealous idolater. He is a plutocrat and owns the place. 
They were obliged to build outside the gate. The most zealous of 
these men was dismissed on account of his preaching. He was 
gone a year, but is now back again. We had a service here. The 
address was based on the words, " Be thou faithful unto death, and 
I will give thee a crown of life." That evening we left for Akita, 
reaching it about nine o'clock. 

On Saturday morning we visited the school and spoke a few 
words to them. In the afternoon we went down to the seaport of 
Akita and spoke in the chapel. The audience was large. Noto 
San is the evangelist. He is a baker and lives near by. On the 
way home we visited the cemetery where Mrs. Josephine W. Smith 
is buried, and scattered some flowers on her grave. This saintly 
woman was born in Nova Scotia, and died here. In her life of 
purity and devotion we see the best imitation of the Christ. In 

her case 

"Love took up the harp of life 

And smote the cords with might ; 
Smote the cord of self that, trembling, , 
Passed in music out of sight." 

At night the church gave us a reception. 

The next morning we went to Sunday-school. Afterwards we 
had a preaching service. The sermon was suggested by the text, 
"Be perfected; be comforted; be of the same mind; live in peace: 
and the God of love and peace shall be with you." There was a 
meeting for women in the afternoon, led by Mrs. Garst. In the 
evening Mr. Garst preached. At both services I spoke briefly. 
We had a good day. Akita is the place in which our work in 
Japan began. Here the first church was organized. Here the 
children built the Josephine W. Smith Memorial Chapel. From 
this point the work branched out into other centers. 

Monday morning we took our leave of Akita and started for 
Honjo. Our road was between the mountains and the Sea of 
Japan. The country is poor; the people are chiefly fishermen. 
Part of the day we rode in an omnibus. The horse was emaciated. 
A boy went along to hold his head steady and to help him up hill. 
We walked most of the way. This outfit is inspected and approved 



70 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

by the government every month. We were over four hours making: 
twelve miles. We saw this horse fed. His dinner consisted of 
dirty water tinctured with meal. The owner does not know that a 
horse cannot thrive on a cold bath and on such thin gruel. If this 
company could see a horse at his best estate, and know what he is 
in strength, in speed, and in beauty, they would not send out such 
animals as they now have to distress their patrons. In Honjo, 
Tashiro San is in charge of the work. He is a man of good repute, 
and deservedly so. The church here has had some trouble. An 
evil-minded man sought to get possession of the property. He was 
defeated in the courts, but the fact that a suit was brought dam- 
aged the work. The believers were urged to hold fast the begin- 
ning of their confidence unto the end. We were assured that a 
better day is dawning. It took us a day and a half to reach Shonai. 
Here we had a service in the chapel. Here the Garst family spent 
four happy years. Their former friends were delighted to see 
them. The work at this point received a great impetus from the 
conversion of a drunkard. The people said that a religion that 
could work such a change must be true. It took us two days more 
to reach Sendai, and one day more to reach Tokyo. 

On this long trip into the country we got a better knowledge of 
Japanese life than we could have gotten had we stayed in the large 
cities. In the cities the people are adopting foreign ways. They 
dress and live in many respects as Americans and Europeans. 
Where we were they live very much as they did before the advent 
of Commodore Perry and the entrance of foreign ideas. We were 
able to get a more accurate view of mission work as a whole than 
we could have gotten otherwise. We saw many proofs of the fact 
that the leaven of the Gospel is at work. Ten years ago the hotels 
would not entertain a missionary. They pretended that they were 
full. Now they are anxious for his patronage. A priest in a 
remote village told one of our men that his temple and its services 
were a part of the Jehovah worship. An old man in the same 
place was asked if there was any prospect that the people would 
soon give up the worship of the Fox-god. He said: "If you will 
come and preach a few sermons, I think they will." The Bible is 
read in all parts of the Empire. The people are glad to get a copy. 
At nearly every place Ave visited we heard of some who are inquir- 
ing about Christianity. We met and talked with several of this 
class. We learned of some baptisms at different points. The 
Japanese move from place to place a great deal. Many of them 
exemplify the Gospel in their own lives and press its claims upon 



A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 71 

their associates. Beyond question the truth is spreading. The 
picture is not all bright. We heard of some who have gone back. 
Iniquity abounds, and it is not strange that the love of some grows 
cold. Nothing saddens the heart of a missionary like the apostasy 
of his own children in the faith. This trial is not peculiar to 
Japan. - 

In the farming districts the people do not live on their farms, 
but are grouped in villages. They go out to their work in the 
morning, and return to their homes in the evening. . As rice is the 
main crop, and as rice grows in water, perhaps this arrangement is 
a necessary one. One of the hindrances to the spread of the Gos- 
pel among the farmers grows out of this fact. The village is a 
unit. There is almost no individuality among the people. If a 
man does not join in the worship in the temple and in the grave- 
yard, and participate in the feasts, he is in danger of being boy- 
cotted. If each man lived on his own farm, he would be more 
independent. This is one reason why so few farmers have been 
won to the faith. In the cities it is different. There one's circle 
of acquaintances is small. There even neighbors know very little 
and care almost nothing about each other. Nevertheless, among 
the farmers there are some who have heard and believed and have 
been baptized. One of our evangelists is at work among this class. 
He is a man of uncommon earnestness. Once he was dissipated. 
After his conversion he resolved that he would serve the Lord with 
as much zeal and fidelity as he had served the devil. He is a burn- 
ing and shining light. His field is a large one. His reports are 
encouraging. Under the preaching of the Gospel these farming 
communities will be reached as a whole. Then they will abandon 
idolatry, and accept Christianity in a body. 

We saw and heard something of the poverty of the people. 
Miners earn not more than fifty dollars a year. This is not a large 
sum if one has a family to support. Thousands of skilled laborers 
earn no more than this. Rice is cheap, to be sure, and many have 
little else. The money used shows the same thing. There are 
coins representing a tenth of a cent. In the hotels and temples and 
elsewhere we saw great quantities of copper. It would seem as if 
most of the business was done with this kind of currency. In Cali- 
fornia at one time the smallest coin in use was a quarter of a dollar. 
Money was abundant. The community was prosperous. The 
houses, as a rule, are small and cheap. They did not cost more 
than two hundred dollars on an average. Many of them did not 
cost a third of that sum. In some large towns most of the shingles 



72 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE 

on the roofs are held in place by cobble-stones. The roofs are 
paved and resemble streets. One man said to us that in time of 
flood these stones held the house on its foundation; but in an 
earthquake they were a source of peril to the family. We called to 
see one family. We found three old people living in a shed five 
feet wide and eight feet long. How they live at all is a mystery. 
Thousands must lie down hungry every night. 

In Akita we saw a class of people that interested us exceedingly. 
They were once called Eta. The word signifies non-human. They 
were supposed to be below the level of humanity. They were said 
to be the descendants of Korean prisoners. They made their living 
by digging the graves of criminals, and by killing and skinning cat- 
tle. In 1871 there were nearly 300,000 Eta in the Empire. Then 
they were raised to the rank of human beings by an imperial edict. 
Their political disabilities were removed, but they are still socially 
ostracised. Men are not restored to their original position in this 
way. At the time of the Revolution there were about a million out- 
casts in Japan. For these Christ died, and to them the Gospel of 
his grace comes with its offer of peace and joy and eternal life. 

The land is full of idols and superstition. In the treaty ports 
the people have lost faith in the old religions, and have not yet 
accepted the Gospel. This is true especially of the student class. 
But in the interior this is not the case. The present condition of 
Japan reminds one of the times in Israel, when on every high place 
and under every green tree there were idols of some kind. We saw 
temples and shrines and images of the Buddha, and sacred tablets 
everywhere. The Fox-god seems to be exceedingly popular. We 
met some women going to a distant temple. We learned that they 
felt that they would not be human beings at all if they did not make 
a pilgrimage to this place. We met a man carrying a shrine on his 
back. The people could make offerings without leaving their 
homes or their work. He would recite a prayer for a money con- 
sideration. One man carried about a lion's head to eat up the 
cholera germs. He would save any family if they would pay his 
price. In the temple we found some eating rice and drinking sake 
and gossiping. Others were beating drums and repeating prayers. 
There is much yet to be done. Those who have no faith and those 
whose faith is erroneous must be guided into all truth. 

The Japanese eat little animal food; in former days they ate 
almost none. This abstinence is one of the fruits of Buddhism. 
The founder of this system used to sweep the ground before he sat 
down lest he should kill or injure some living creature. He taught 



A TRIP TO THE NORTH OF JAPAN 73 

his followers that it was wrong to take life to supply man's need. 
Fish was allowed for the hardness of man's heart only. In the tour 
through the country, extending over ten days, we saw many horses, 
only two or three cows, a few chickens, but no pig and no sheep. 
In one place we inquired for beef, and were told that we could not 
have any for two days. That was in a town of ten thousand peo- 
ple. In another place we tried to get a chicken, but failed. Until 
recently, chickens were kept as time-keepers. Their crowing 
announced the dawn. The only sheep and pigs I have seen in 
Japan are in the zoological gardens in Tokyo. 

Living apart so long the Japanese know nothing of the progress 
made by other nations. They do not use animals and wind and 
water and steam and electricity to bear their burdens and to do 
their work. They have horses now, but they are not used exten- 
sively. Away from the railways the mail is carried in a hand-cart 
or on a man's shoulder. Charcoal, rice, sand, stone, timber, and 
almost everything else is transported in the same way. It is not an 
uncommon thing to see two men or a man and his wife hauling a 
load of some kind. We met a man and a woman hauling stone. The* 
woman pulled with a breast-strap and carried her infant on her back. 
We saw men and women carrying fire-wood, and hay and vegetables. 
We traveled three hundred and fifty miles in wagons propelled 
by human strength. The men sweat as if they were in a furnace. 
All the while one feels disposed to get out and walk. This is a 
painful method of travel. Cheap as coolie labor is, one can ride on 
the best railway in the world for a third of what it costs to ride in 
these little wagons. The worry is considerable. You reach a place 
and are told that there are no men. You are asked if you are in a 
hurry, and if you wish one man or two. If you are in a hurry, you 
will be told that if you are willing to pay for two men you can get 
one. If men are present they must have time to think whether they 
will go on to-day or wait till to-morrow. One would think that 
they would be glad to go at once. But these men are never in a 
hurry. Haste is undignified. At every turn you must pay extra. 
The foreigner is rich and can be " squeezed." Give one man a tip 
and you must give every man a tip. The news will be passed all 
along the line. It would seem that these men would be ambitious 
to make a reputation for promptness and efficiency. What do they 
care for reputation! They have lived from hand to mouth all their 
days. Years of oppression have taken all heart and all hope out of 
them. Several times Mr. Garst told them that a traveler from 
across the seas was present, and that they owed it to Japan to con- 



74 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

tribute to his progress and comfort, so that he might get a favor- 
able impression of the country. Strange to say, this appeal to 
their pride succeeded when everything else failed. Sometimes we 
had to resort to the police. They wear the chrysanthemum, the 
badge of the Emperor, and their word is law. We felt relieved 
when we reached the railroad, and realized that the "squeezing" 
was over. 

There were many pleasant things about this trip. The believers 
came out to meet us, and to see us off. They were glad we came, 
and assured us that our visit would do good, and that their prayers 
and good wishes would follow us all our days. My companions left 
nothing undone that could add to my comfort. C. E. Garst, by his 
knowledge of the people and their language, by his unfailing good 
humor and patience, helped me much. On a long journey like this 
one, a woman that can speak and pray and sing and interpret and 
cook and make the best of everything, is a treasure indeed. One 
thing tried me. I have sat on my feet and looked happy when suf- 
fering torture; I have eaten soup with chopsticks; I have parboiled 
myself in hot baths; I have touched the ground with the top of my 
head a hundred times in a day; but nothing has tried me so much 
as speaking while sitting on the floor, and through an interpreter. 
It is as natural for a man to stand up when he has anything to say, as 
it is for him to sit down when he is through. The human organism 
is a galvanic battery, and the mind works best when it has two 
ground connections. The audiences were so attentive that speak- 
ing in any posture was not so difficult as otherwise it would have 
been. We reached Tokyo late Saturday night in good health and 
in good spirits, and thankful that we had been permitted to make 
this trip. 



XI. 
A WEEK IN TOKYO. 

On the Sunday after returning to Tokyo from the trip in the 
north, I worshiped in three places. In the early morning I visited 
the chapel in» which J. M. McCaleb preaches, and spoke briefly. 
He has a neat and convenient place of worship, and is doing a good 
work. There was a feast in that part of the city at the time. 
Lanterns and banners were hung out in front of almost every 
house. The streets were full of people. The boys were as noisy as 
at home on a national holiday. The people within were reverent 
and attentive. Each had a Bible and followed the leader when he 
read or referred to passages. After an hour spent there we went to 
the chapel in charge of H. H. Guy. This is the building that Miss 
Wirick erected with money saved out of a modest salary. Here I 
spoke on the new life in Christ. One of the evangelists interpreted 
for me. In the evening I went to the chapel in charge of E. S. 
Stevens. In nearly every ward of this great city the Gospel is 
jjreached every week. The buildings, as a rule, are neither large 
nor costly. They do not begin to compare in these respects with 
the temples. But in them the message of salvation is proclaimed, 
and therefore they are worth more to the Japanese than all their 
Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. One is a savor of life unto 
life; the other is a savor of death unto death. Strange feelings 
come over one while sitting in one of these chapels in this great 
city. Outside the people are engaged in their secular occupations. 
The majority do not know and do not care to inquire concerning 
the new faith. But Jesus Christ is destined to reign over Tokyo, 
and over Japan. The institutions of this Empire shall be filled 
with his spirit, and the people shall serve him. 

The next day we called to see Miss Kioch's work. She has 
charge of the Girls' Home. There are nine girls under her care. 
They are being educated to serve as Bible women. Should they not 
devote their lives to this work, they will become Christian wives 
and mothers. Some of these girls are from Christian homes, and 
some are not. They themselves are all Christians, most of them 
having turned to the Lord since they entered the Home. For their 

75 



76 / A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

secular education they go to the government schools. In the Home 
they are under Christian influence and receive Biblical instruction. 
At present they are studying the Life of Christ. They do all their 
own work, the matron overseeing and giving instruction when nec- 
essary. They learn to cook, sew, wash, nurse the sick, and many 
other things. In this way they are prepared to become good house- 
keepers, and while serving as Bible women they will be prepared to 
turn their hands to almost anything. They dress and live in 
Japanese style. No attempt is made to denationalize them. They 
are Christians, but not American Christians. Their field of work 
is here, and it is for it they are prepared. In her work Miss Kioch 
is aided by Mrs. Garst, Miss Johnson, and Messrs. Guy and 
Stevens. Each one teaches an hour a week. The course of study 
at present is the Old Testament in Outline, the Life of Christ, 
Geography, Church History, and Methods of Work. Under the 
last head the girls are taught how to approach the people, and how 
to answer their objections to the Christian religion. All the more 
advanced girls teach classes in the Sunday-schools. Thus every day 
in their school life they are influencing those around them for good, 
and when they can they tell them of the Savior who died for 
them. When the new building is completed, this work will be 
enlarged. 

On Tuesday morning we visited, by request of W. K. Azbill, one 
of the famous schools for girls in Japan. At his suggestion the 
President and Faculty invited me to deliver an address before the 
whole school. President Iwamoto is a man of ability, culture, 
position and moral worth. He is justly regarded as one of the fore- 
most teachers in the Empire. He is not only a teacher, but a 
preacher, and an editor as well. His school is one of the best of 
its kind in Japan. It is a Christian school of high grade. The 
President is an earnest advocate of self-support in all such institu- 
tions. He could easily get foreign aid in case he was willing to 
place the school under foreign control. This he is not willing to 
do. The teachers work for very small pay. If any can donate their 
services they cheerfully do so. W. K. Azbill, Miss Alice Miller and 
K. Ishikawa are on the staff of teachers. ' We had a very pleasant 
visit with the President and his accomplished wife. She has trans- 
lated some of the works of Charles Dickens into Japanese, and has 
done much other literary work. She conducts a department in the 
Japanese Evangelist. Professor Azbill took us through the build- 
ings and over the grounds. He showed us the rooms in which he 
lives, and the chapel in which he and his associate preach every 



A WEEK IN TOKYO 77 

Sunday. He took us to the lot which he has purchased, and upon 
which he hopes to build a chapel in the near future. 

On the way back we called to see Dr. D. C. Green of the Ameri- 
can Board. He has been in Japan since 1869. He was here three 
years before the first Protestant church was organized in Yokohama, 
and four years before the edicts prohibiting Christianity were taken 
down. He has a great story to tell, and the heart beats faster 
while listening to him. He spoke of some of the changes that had 
taken place since his arrival. Those who visit Japan now can have 
no adequate conception of the greatness of these changes. The nation 
and its institutions are essentially different from what they were at 
that time. He spoke of the triumph of the Gospel in Japan. He 
confessed that the enthusiasm of a few years ago has abated. The 
outlook for the immediate Christianization of Japan is not as bright 
as it was then. But this, in his opinion, is only a temporary lull. 
The great movement has slackened ; it has not ceased. Dr. Green 
accounted for the present condition by saying that it is owing partly, 
if not mainly, to the readjustments which have followed the general 
acceptance of the theory of evolution. Many men who would 
otherwise be leaders of evangelistic effort, are giving themselves to 
the solution of the new problems in theology. Some are at sea in 
respect to doctrine. They are in doubt, and a doubtful mood is not 
a victorious mood. He referred also to the. intense nationalistic 
spirit as hindering the progress of the Gospel. This spirit mani- 
fests itself in Russia, in Germany, in Australia, and Japan. It is 
different in different countries, but in every case it emphasizes the 
national as against the universal. Christianity being a foreign 
religion has suffered in common with everything else that is for- 
eign. As to the future, Dr. Green has no doubt. Year by year 
substantial gains are being made. There are many indubitable 
proofs that the worst is past, and that a better day is dawning. 

In the afternoon we visited the Imperial University. Dr. 
Yoshida volunteered to be our guide. He is one of the teachers in 
the Nobles' School, and does some work in the University. In 1856 
a place was opened for the Examination of the Barbarian Writings. 
This was the germ of the present University, with its Colleges of 
Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science and Agriculture. 
The staff of professors is quite large. The lectures are in various 
languages. The Medical College is manned by Germans. Several 
of the professors are men of world-wide renown. Gradually the 
foreigners are giving place to Japanese. The Government sends a 
number of the most promising young men to America and Europe, 



78 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and supports them while prosecuting their studies under the ablest 
specialists. There are in all departments 1,300 students. This is 
now the greatest school in the East. The Japanese are determined 
that it shall not be surpassed by any school in the world. One of 
the interesting pieces of apparatus shown us was that for register- 
ing earthquakes. As there are about five hundred earthquakes a 
year in Japan, it will be seen that this instrument has much to do. 
It records the motions of the earth in all directions, and the dura- 
tion of the same. Dr. Yoshida showed us a piece of wire bent so 
as to represent the movements of the earth in a severe shock. It 
was bent in all directions. Seeing this, one can readily believe the 
reports of the destruction caused by earthquakes. The scientific 
men are making experiments from which they expect good results. 
For example, they are building houses that will best withstand the 
shock of earthquakes. They are sinking a well 3,000 feet deep. 
They hope to learn something from this. In the evening the Japa- 
nese Christians gave me a reception. Several addresses of welcome 
were made. They charged me to assure the churches in America of 
their gratitude for what they have done for them. One man came 
three hundred miles to the reception. He is a country evangelist. 
He is not a great scholar, but he has apostolic faith and zeal, and 
is doing a good work. 

The next day we visited the Presbyterian College, and saw the 
President and several of the professors and some of the work. 
The buildings are spacious and suitable. In the Theological 
Department there are fifty students; in the Literary Department 
about the same number. There is no lack of schools in Tokyo. 
Nearly every society has felt that it must train its own workers and 
must educate the young people connected with the churches. There 
are schools representing every variety of doctrine. In one of these, 
so it is said, there are no text-books, only lectures and essays; the 
faculty is composed of Christians, Buddhists, Shintoists and Con- 
fucianists. All have the same object in view — search for truth 
wherever it may be found. The men connected with this school 
do not build churches, impose creeds, nor pay salaries to preachers, 
nor import foreign organizations, nor reproduce foreign cults. 
They wait for and help along native effort, which is honestly directed 
toward gaining the highest truth and securing the best life in relig- 
ion and morals. It is a poor way to search for truth to overlook 
Him who said, " I am the way, the truth, and the life." 

Most of Thursday was devoted to a conference with the mission- 
aries. We had accounts from all as to the present condition of the 



A WEEK IN TOKYO 79 

work and the outlook. The work in the schools and the meetings 
for women and the work in the several chapels were reported. 
Plans for enlarging the work were discussed. The need of a school 
in which evangelists shall be trained was emphasized. The general 
feeling is that no college for literary or scientific training is needed, 
because the Japanese schools are excellent, and this work can be 
done in them more economically. In answer to a petition from the 
believers in Akita for a missionary family Mr. and Dr. Stevens 
volunteered to go to the North. They will be more than three 
hundred miles from Tokyo, and far removed from any Americans, 
but they go joyfully because they feel that the Lord's work there 
requires their presence and service. That day we visited the 
Imperial Museum near by and saw many things relating to Japanese 
antiquities, art, manufactures, mineral and agricultural resources. 
We had a bird's-e} 7 e view of Japan. In the park we saw the tree 
General Grant planted and some of the camels captured at Port 
Arthur. 

The following day was devoted to a conference in the home of 
Miss Scott and Miss Hostetter. All the workers in Tokyo repre- 
senting the Disciples of Christ were present. Mr. and Mrs. Madden 
reached the city the night before, and were on hand to be intro- 
duced to the workers and the work. After a brief address by Pres- 
ident Guy, E. S. Stevens read a paper on "Entering upon the 
Work." He dwelt upon the need of a holy life, and enlarged upon 
some missionary methods. It was a thoughtful paper. The dis- 
cussion was lively and profitable. Prof. Azbill called attention to 
the use of such phrases as "Our Church," "Our Plea," and "Our 
Position." He prefers to speak of Christ's position, and plea, and 
church. Miss Scott read a paper on "Charity School Work." 
She gave an account of her own school, as she knows that better 
than any other. Her school is in one of the poorest quarters of the 
city. Here are lepers and people with other terrible diseases; the 
blind and the lame; children clad and unclad, looking hungry and 
wretched. When the people get up in the morning they carry off 
and pawn their bed for enough to buy food or drink. If they can 
earn enough in the day to redeem the bed, they have it to sleep on 
during the night. The boys called the workers "foreign fools" 
and "foreign cats." They threw stones into the houses and made 
noises about the place, or abused and teased the children coming 
out of the school. Buddhist priests circulated falsehoods about 
Christians. But the work grew and prospered. She has now over 
one hundred children. They are in three grades. They are taught 



80 A CIECUIT OF THE GLOBE 

reading, writing, composition, geography, arithmetic, physiology, 
and practical Christianity. The Bible is taught every morning, and 
Christian songs are taught once a week. A new spirit has crept 
over the valley. The policeman speaks of the children as quiet and 
orderly, whereas they had been the bane of his life. The teachers 
are known and respected. C. E. Garst read a paper on "Indus- 
trial Work in Missions." Great care must be taken not to pauper- 
ize the people by doing too much for them. The better plan is to 
give them some work while in school, so that they may pay their 
own way. At the creation every tree had its "seed in itself." So 
Christianity is intended to be self-propagating. At the close I 
spoke about the work at home, and my impressions of what I had 
sean since reaching the field. We had a good day together. The 
workers in Japan are of one heart and one soul. They keep the 
unity of the Spirit in the bonds of peace. 

On Saturday morning the Advisory Committee held a session for 
business. Later in the day we visited the Garst family. One of 
the many joys of this visit was a talk with Dr. Verbeck. He was 
born in Holland and educated in a Moravian school. After coming 
to America he entered Auburn Seminary. On his graduation he 
was sent to Japan. That was in 1859. He was one of the first 
four to enter Japan as soon as the doors were opened. He could 
not preach publicly, but, like Paul, he dwelt in his own hired 
house, and received all that came in unto him, preaching the king- 
dom of God, and teaching those things which concern the Lord 
Jesus Christ. An old priest brought three young men to him. He 
said he was too old to begin the study of Christianity, but asked 
him to take his young friends and teach them. An old doctor came 
by night to talk and to get many books for friends in the country. 
Dr. Verbeck baptized the second convert in Japan. He told us 
about it. The first convert died a few hours after his baptism. 
The commander of an army found a copy of the New Testament in 
Nagasaki Bay. Through an interpreter he learned that it was a 
good book, and that he could get a copy in Chinese in Shanghai. 
Being ordered to return home, he kept up the study of the Bible, 
and got four others to join him.' He sent to Dr. Verbeck, and 
asked him if he would give him instruction in this book. Once a 
week he sent a trusty messenger to Nagasaki with an account of his 
progress, and with a request to explain some difficult passages. He 
sent, because he could not leave home himself. This went on for 
over two years. One day the commander appeared before his 
teacher and asked for baptism. After due examination he was 



A WEEK IN TOKYO 81 

baptized. Then he told of the New Testament that he had found 
twelve years before. The baptism was private. The commander 
was ready to die for the faith, but if it was known that he was a 
Christian, his whole family would have been exterminated. At 
that time Christianity was "the vile doctrine," and its acceptance 
was a capital crime. This man kept the faith till the last. Every 
day he took his family into a private room and read and expounded 
the Scriptures. Fourteen years later a daughter and a female 
servant sought baptism. Dr. Verbeck had much to do with educa- 
tion in Japan. Two young men came to him to study the English 
Bible. About a year after they came to him bringing two sucking 
pigs as a thank offering for his teaching. They had been examined 
that morning and had carried off the highest prizes. The success 
of these young men led the government officials to seek Dr. Ver- 
beck's services in an English school to be opened in Nagasaki. 
Afterward he was invited to Tokyo. Here he became the adviser 
of the government in all matters pertaining to education, and in 
other matters as well. He was principal of a school that had over 
a thousand pupils. This school is now part of the Imperial Uni- 
versity. His influence for good has been immeasurable. Several 
years ago he severed his connection with the school and returned to 
the work of an evangelist. He is in great demand as a preacher 
and a lecturer. He is called for in all parts of the Empire. One 
of his greatest works was his share in translating the Scriptures 
into Japanese. Dr. Verbeck is a hale and joyous old man, and a 
fine specimen of the Christian gentleman. He is as young in spirit 
and as full of fun as a boy. He has seen the Empire opened, and 
has seen the day when 40,000 souls believe that Jesus Christ is 
Lord of all. In recognition of his great services to the nation, the 
government has granted him and his family a special passport, giv- 
ing them the right to trade, sojourn and reside in any part of the 
Empire. Dr. Verbeck's life is an illustration of the words, 
"Always abounding in the work of the Lord." To meet such a 
man and to hear him talk makes one feel proud of his race. 

At the request of the General Secretary, I delivered an address 
before the Young Men's^ Christian Association. There were over 
three hundred present. In that audience there were more brains 
and more promise than in all the priests and worshipers I had seen 
in the temples. Most of them could understand English. For the 
sake of those who could not, the Secretary interpreted for me after 
I had finished. All our own workers were present. The Associa- 
6 



82 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

tion has a fine building. It cost $30,000, silver. Most of this 
money came from America. A number of eminent men, among 
them the Chief Justice of Japan, are among the directors. 

It was a busy and happy week. I saw all the charity schools, 
and some of the work in the meetings for women. I met the Chris- 
tians for conference and visited the workers in their own homes. 
As scarcely any two live within five miles of each other, this took 
time. There were many callers at the home where I was enter- 
tained. They came early and late. Sometimes there was no leisure, 
no, not so much as to eat. I think 1 saw and heard about every 
side of the work. The week closed with a service of song and 
thanksgiving to God for his loving kindness. 



, , XII. 

MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN. 

The work of a missionary is clearly defined. He is to make 
disciples and teach them to observe all things that Christ com- 
manded. This task is not so simple and so easy of accomplishment 
as many suppose. The people are not standing on the shore wait- 
ing for the evangelist, and eager to hear and obey his message. 
They are not hungering and thirsting after righteousness. Our 
Lord said, "No man having drunk old wine desireth new; for he 
saith, The old is good." Myriads are satisfied with what they have, 
and do not wish any change. In other minds there is an inveterate 
prejudice against a foreign faith. To secure a favorable hearing 
for the message requires wisdom, tact, patience, and love. The 
work of a missionary is a many-sided work, and it needs a many- 
sided soul. I wish to give an account of some of the methods 
employed in Japan. 

I. PREACHING THE GOSPEL. 

A missionary is to go and preach. It is God's good pleasure 
through the foolishness of preaching to save them that believe. 
Our Lord was a preacher. He went about all Galilee and Judaea 
teaching in their synagogues and preaching the Gospel of the king- 
dom. His apostles were preachers. They filled the Empire with 
their doctrine. There is no substitute for the living voice of the 
living man. The presence of an evangelist challenges attention and 
calls out inquiries. At once the people become curious as to his 
appearance and business and motives. It is for him to take advan- 
tage of this natural curiosity and supply the information desired. 
A missionary is not long on the ground before he begins to preach. 
He begins with an interpreter. As soon as he is able he begins to 
speak without this aid. Dr. McAll began with two sentences: 
" God loves you; I love you." The work may be begun in his own 
hired house, or in a hotel, or on the street, or in a chapel, or in a 
temple. Wherever people are found who wish to learn something 
about the faith of Christ, he is ready to speak. Paul made several 
long missionary tours. He said that from Jerusalem and round 

83 



84 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

about, even unto Illyricum, I have fully preached the Gospel of 
Christ. The world was his parish. His example is followed to-day 
in Japan. No missionary remains in one spot, like an oyster. His 
labors are not confined to one neighborhood. Confucius said: "A 
philosopher need not go abroad to proclaim his doctrine ; if he has 
the truth, the people will come to him." A missionary must go out 
on preaching tours. He may be gone a month or two at a time. It 
is not difficult to get a hearing. By announcing that he is going to 
speak in some temple or in the theater, he can call from five hun- 
dred to a thousand people together. The audience is in no hurry to 
go home. He can preach for an hour, or for five hours, as he pre- 
fers. In this way he advertises Christianity. Many will call upon 
him at his hotel to hear more. They will come before he is awake 
in the morning, and will remain till long after he ought to be 
asleep. Some may be drawn by the idlest curiosity. They may be 
like the Athenians, eager to hear some new thing. Some may come 
to oppose. A few may come to inquire what they must do in order 
to be saved. In any event, he has the chance to apply the truth to 
the heart and the conscience, and to make clear what in his address 
was not understood. An audience at home has a thousand years of 
Christian history behind it. The hearers understand allusions to 
Biblical history, geography, and social customs. Not so here in 
Japan. One man inquired of a speaker if John the Baptist was a 
place or a person. Such misconceptions are not uncommon. On 
these tours the evangelist is brought face to face with multitudes 
who otherwise would never care to inquire concerning Christianity. 
He has thus unrivalled opportunities of disarming prejudice, of 
explaining difficulties, and of publishing far and wide the message 
of salvation. 

II. SUNDAY-SCHOOLS AND WOMEN'S MEETINGS. 

The children are gathered on Sunday in the chapels or in the 
buildings used by the charity schools. Some of the workers have 
two and others three schools a week. The exercises are conducted 
as at home. The same lessons are studied and the same songs 
sung. The results can not fail to be good. On the seats are small 
children with babies strapped to their backs. The parents are busy 
and can not come; the children are glad to attend. Once a week 
each of the ladies of the mission has a meeting for women. This 
meeting is held either in their homes or in the chapels. In the two 
that I attended the women were studying the "Life of Christ." 
Songs were sung, prayers were offered, the Scriptures were read 



MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN 85 

and explained. There is more need of such meetings here than in 
America. The reason is this: The women do not use the same 
language as the men. A woman may go to church and hear the 
sermon and understand very little of it. If the preacher wishes to 
display his learning and uses Chinese words freely, the women will 
not be edified. In the meetings for women the leaders use Japanese 
words and phrases, and their explanations are clear to all. 

III. CHARITY SCHOOLS. 

In Japan there are public schools in all parts of the Empire. 
The intention of the Government, as stated in an Imperial edict, is 
that education shall be so diffused that there may not be a village 
with an ignorant family, nor a family with an ignorant member. 
But the schools in Japan are not free. It is true that the tuition fee 
is small, but a fee of fifteen or twenty cents a month is more than 
many families can pay. Hence the need of charity schools. In 
these no fees are charged, as a rule. Sometimes a small fee is 
charged ; this is done only when the families are able to pay it. In 
these the course is substantially the same as in the Government 
schools. The difference is that the Bible and Christian songs are 
taught. By this means distrust and dislike are broken down, and 
hearts and homes are opened to the Gospel. For centuries the peo- 
ple of Japan were taught that foreigners were no better than the 
beasts of the field. It was said that missionaries were sent out to 
teach the people to disobey the laws. This care for the children of 
the poor attracts attention. Persons that engage in such a work, 
with no promise or prospect of reward, cannot be so very bad at 
heart. The strongest evidence our Lord could give that he was the 
Messiah was this: "To the poor the gospel is preached." This 
evidence is as cogent and convincing now as it was then. Acquaint- 
ance with the teachers dispels many foolish notions about them. 
They are seen to be possessed of ability, culture, refinement; they 
are kind and gentle and patient. It is impossible to hate or despise 
such workers. By their consistent lives and unselfish conduct they 
commend the Gospel to all who know them. The good seed is 
sown in the hearts of their pupils. Bishop Hughes said: " Give 
me the children till they are eight years of age, and I don't care 
who has them after that." Some of the children are won to the 
faith. All are more favorably disposed towards Christianity and 
Christian people than otherwise they naturally would be. Whole 
communities have been changed by a charity school. The pupils 
were brought into a new atmosphere. The boys were taught to 



8G A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE 

serve their country and to grow up into good men. They were pre- 
pared to be heads of households. The girls were better daughters, 
wives and mothers because of the instruction and inspiration 
received. These schools build up the nation; they contribute to 
the advancement of the Lord's work in this land. One boy taught 
by one of our workers sends his mother to the meeting for women. 
He keeps the baby in her absence. Once his mother was going to a 
temple to pray that her sore eyes might be healed. The lesson that 
day was, " Thou shalt worship the Lord thy God, and him only 
shalt thou serve." He urged her not to go. She did not. After- 
ward she wanted to unite with the church, but her husband 
opposed. 

IV. TEACHING ENGLISH. 

The demand for this is not so strong as it was once, but it is 
strong enough to tax the energies of the missionaries. Once it was 
proposed to adopt English as the national language. That was 
a dream of the Restoration. No one thinks of that now. Then 
every man that could speak English was employed as a teacher. 
Men smoked and swore in the class-rooms. One article in the con- 
tract made with W. E. Griffis was that he should not get drunk. 
There was a reason for this clause. There is yet a great demand 
for English among the students. This helps the work. I think it 
was Duff that said that no one could get a knowledge of the English 
language without getting a knowledge of Christianity. No one can 
read Shakespeare, or Emerson, or Tennyson, or Lowell, without 
discovering many of the concepts that are peculiar to the Gospel. 
English literature is saturated with Christian thought. One can 
not read long without learning of God as a personal Being, of Jesus 
Christ as the Savior of men, of the worth of every human soul, 
of the value of freedom. No man can read English without coming 
to know that it is a shameful thing for men to lie ; that it is a noble 
thing to be pure, and just, and generous, and self-sacrificing. 

V. BIBLE CLASSES. 

These are taught in the Sunday-schools and elsewhere. Young 
men come to the homes of the missionaries. The principal of one 
of the great schools of Japan said to his pupils, "You can not 
understand English civilization without a knowledge of the English 
Bible." Many read it for this purpose. They do not regard it as a 
revelation from the Father. They do not read it to make it the 
rule of their lives. They read it as they would read Longfellow, or 



MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN 87 

Hawthorne, or Milton, or Burke. No matter what the motive, if 
only they do read it. Dr. Gordon took a class of Buddhist priests 
through a course in the New Testament. That so many want to 
study the English Bible is a hopeful sign. It is a great and effec- 
tual door. Nothing but good can come from such classes. Many 
may not be convinced that it is the Word of God, but their erro- 
neous views will be corrected and their mental attitude changed. As 
they read they will become familiar with some of the great truths 
and eternal principles that underlie Anglo-Saxon civilization. They 
will learn that, not the Emperor only, but every man is a son of 
Heaven; that all men are equal befoje God; and that all are 
sinners; and that Jesus the Christ is mighty to save. 

VI. BIBLE DISTRIBUTION. 

The people are glad to get a New Testament or a Gospel. 
After a large meeting in a theater many are willing to buy. Their 
interest is excited, and they are eager to know more. One of our 
workers at the close of such a meeting disposed of five hundred 
portions of the Bible. As they read they are convinced that this is 
not "the vile doctrine" reputed, and that it cannot corrupt the 
people. They are convinced that it cannot fail to do them good. 
It is the basis of ethics and the foundation of good government and 
of the greatest material prosperity. The distribution of the Script- 
ures cannot fail to bring forth good fruit. The printed page can go 
where no evangelist has ever gone. In connection with this work 
is that of tract distribution. Workers usually carry an assortment 
with them while touring. They give them to pilgrims in the tem- 
ples, to passengers on the trains, to coolies on the street, to those 
who attend the services in the chapels. Some keep a supply on 
their desks, and give a copy to every caller. Some may be wasted, 
but all cannot be. The Japanese are great readers, and will make 
good use of any literature that comes into their possession. 

VII. TALKING WITH THE PEOPLE. 

The missionary may call to see a man by appointment, or a man 
may call to see him. At home people know their duty. They have 
no doubt about the inspiration of the Scriptures, or about the 
validity of Christ's claims. The one thing to do is to urge them to 
accept Jesus as Lord. It is not so here. Christianity is a new 
faith and has a foreign aspect. Much of it they do not understand. 
They hear of the resurrection and of miracles, and they are per- 



88 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

plexecl. They want to learn more. One morning in Tokyo a 
policeman called to make inquiries. He was from the country. He 
had heard several sermons, and he brought four friends and a list 
of questions. Mrs. Garst called to see a man dying of consump- 
tion. She urged him to put his faith in Christ. He was troubled 
about miracles and wanted help. There is not a question of Bibli- 
cal criticism or a theological vagary in Europe or America which is 
not repeated here, and often in an aggravated form. Men are 
troubled and they call to talk the matter over. It may take a 
month or a year, or a series of years, to satisfy the heart and the 
reason. The missionary gives days and weeks to this work. He 
takes time from reading, and from meals and from sleep for this 
purpose. 

On the trains missionaries talk to the passengers. They are 
surprised and pleased that foreigners can talk Japanese. They are 
affable and easily approached. They talk with the priests in the 
temple. Dr. Neesima urged a Cabinet Minister to confess Christ. 
They talk to men anywhere and everywhere. They sow beside all 
waters. They have one work on hand. The methods may vary, 
but the end in view is the same. They are fishers of men. They 
may have to change the net or the bait, but they must catch fish, or 
the nets and the bait avail nothing. Paul preached sometimes. At 
other times he held dialogues with the people. Whatever the form 
of speech, his aim was that by all means he might gain some. It is 
so now. 

Other methods are employed. Thus schools are opened for 
girls. The higher education of women is not popular now. It is 
thought that it causes them to be less modest and more self- 
assertive than formerly. There are those who think differently, 
however. One statesman said: "Give me the women of the coun- 
try, and you may have the army, and the navy, and the police, and 
all the rest." A daimyo said to a missionary: "If you have the 
best welfare of our country at heart, the best thing you can do is to 
educate our women." Medical work is still carried on in the inter- 
est of evangelism, but there is not the need of this that there once 
was. There are some mission hospitals in Japan. In connection 
with these nurses are trained. Orphanages have been established. 
The children in them are brought up in the nurture and admonition 
of the Lord. In the recent war with China, missionaries went into 
the hospitals and served the patients in every way they could. 
The missionaries feel that the people must be reached and won to 




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MISSIONARY METHODS IN JAPAN 89 

the faith. If one method will not answer the purpose, another 
is adopted. 

It will be seen, I think, that missionary work is more difficult, 
and calls for men and women of greater ability, than is generally 
believed. Savage people are ready to accept what they hear. A 
missionary digs a well in a dry season, and they regard him as a 
supernatural being. They never heard of a well. They are ready 
to say, "The gods have come down in the likeness of man." In 
Rome it is said that two priests could not meet without laughing at 
the way they were fooling the people. The Gospel spread like 
wildfire. In Japan it is different. Here are ancient and venerated 
religions, magnificent temples, and priests without number. Chris- 
tianity was under the ban for centuries. Its advocates were said to 
be barbarous and devilish. The missionaries have to show that it 
is a rational faith, and that it is worthy of all acceptation. They 
have to present its claims so that men and women, born and bred in 
Buddhism, Shintoism and Confucianism, may be convinced, and 
may confess that Jesus Christ is Lord to the glory of God the 
Father. 



XIII. 
THE WOEK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHKIST IN JAPAN, 

The Indianapolis Convention of 1881 urged that Japan be occu- 
pied as a mission field. George T. Smith and Charles E. Garst and 
their wives were the first missionaries. Mr. Smith was born in 
Cincinnati; served in the army; was in Libby Prison for a time; 
was severely wounded. He was educated in Bethany College; 
preached in Svyampscott, Bucyrus and Warren. Josephine W. 
Smith was born in Cornwallis, Nova Scotia, and was married in 
1874. Mr. Garst was born in Dayton, Ohio; was educated in the 
Iowa Agricultural College, in the Military Academy at West Point, 
and at Butler University. M. D. Todd, who baptized him, urged 
him to devote his life to the ministry of the Word and to prayer. 
For some time he directed his studies by mail. Laura De Laney 
Garst was born in Hopedale, Ohio ; was educated at Union Springs 
and Rochester, New York; was married in 1881. After their mar- 
riage Mr. and Mrs. Garst thought much of mission work. At one 
time they thought of going to Africa at their own expense. The 
Society heard of their thoughts and plans, and asked them to go to 
Japan. 

These four workers sailed from San Francisco for Yokohama 
September 27, 1883. On their arrival they engaged rooms at the 
Temperance Hotel, and within a few days began the study of the 
language. They were kindly received by the missionaries on the 
ground. Among those to whom they were under special obligation 
for advice and assistance were Mr. Goble, who had been in Japan 
thirty years ; Mr. Loomis, of the Bible Society, and Mr. Bennett, of 
the American Baptist Union. They remained in Yokohama till 
they mastered the language sufficiently to be able to take care of 
themselves in the interior. They found that the treaty ports were 
occupied. There were more missionaries in the Concession of 
Tokyo than in the same area anywhere else in the world. After 
looking over the whole country they decided to begin work in 
Akita, the capital city of the province by the same name. Akita is 
on the northwest coast. It has a population of about 40,000, while 

90 



WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN JAPAN 91 

the province has a population of 600,000. At that time there were 
no Christian workers, either native or foreign, in that province. 
Most of the people had never heard of the Christ. For several 
months the missionaries lived in a Japanese house as one family. 
Mrs. Garst was the first American woman to live in Akita, Mrs. 
Smith having remained behind in Yokohama on account of sick- 
ness. The people were greatly amused when she and her husband 
walked the streets arm in arm. They had never seen anything like 
that before. Many called to inquire about their purpose, and 
about the faith which they came to preach. The neighbors used to 
come in to attend family worship. 

Four months after their arrival in Akita there were two bap- 
tisms. Two months later there were four more. A church was 
organized and the ordinances were observed. The services were 
conducted in Japanese. In the autumn of that year Mr. O. H. 
Gulick, of the American Board, visited Akita. The theater was 
engaged and meetings were held. Messrs. Gulick, Smith, Garst, 
and Kudo, the Japanese teacher and evangelist, spoke. The audi- 
ences were large and attentive. They listened from two to three 
hours. In this way the missionaries were able to get the claims of 
the Gospel before the minds of the Japanese. The next spring 
Mrs. Smith died. Her patience and goodness caused her to be 
greatly beloved. She was possessed of that meek and quiet spirit 
which is of great price. A chapel was built by the children in 
America as a memorial to her. The bell rings out several times 
every week and invites the people to hear the Gospel. The day 
Mrs. Smith was buried Dr. Macklin reached Nagasaki. He had 
received his medical training in Toronto and in New York. Ascer- 
taining that there was no special need of a medical missionary in 
Japan, owing to the proficiency of the Japanese physicians, he went 
to China and opened a mission in Nankin. The next year Miss 
Kate Johnson and Miss Calla Harrison joined the band in Akita. 
They had been efficient teachers in Madison, Indiana. They began 
the study of the language and taught in the school which had been 
opened. Soon after they reached the field almost the whole of 
Akita was destroyed by fire. The school building was opened to 
receive the homeless. The mission fed the people and did all in its 
power to relieve distress. Their conduct in that crisis was not 
without good effect. That summer the work was hindered by 
cholera. More than 200,000 died in Japan that season. All meet- 
ings were discontinued for a time. 

While carrying on the work in Akita, the missionaries did not 



92 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

neglect the regions beyond. They made evangelistic tours into the 
surrounding country and towns. Honjo was the first out-station. 
Here was a town of 30,000 people without any Gospel privileges. 
Here a number of believers were gathered into a church. About 
the same time some work was done in Tsuchizaki, the port of 
Akita. At Arakawa a church was established by a Japanese Chris- 
tian. He had been a cook in Mr. Smith's family. There he 
became a believer. He went to Arakawa to work in the copper 
mines. He had little culture but much zeal. He talked the Gos- 
pel to his associates and led several of them to Christ. With some 
help from the mission they built a small chapel. Here they meet 
and observe the Lord's Supper and exhort one another. Churches 
were established at Innai and at Shonai. Meanwhile believers were 
added to the Lord in Akita. Regular preaching services, Sunday- 
schools and other services were held about the city. Bible-classes 
were organized for women, and were productive of good fruits. 
The women were poor and ignorant, but the Spirit helped their 
infirmities. Some died in hope of eternal life ; some live and adorn 
the Gospel of God their Savior. 

In 1888 G. T. Smith returned from America, whither he had 
gone the year previous. He had been married to Miss Candace 
Lhamon, and she accompanied him to the field to assist in the 
work. Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Snodgrass came with them. P. B. 
Hall came out that same year. He remained in Japan till failing 
health compelled him to resign. After these arrivals it was deemed 
expedient to scatter the forces. C. E. Garst and Eugene Snod- 
grass and their families, and Miss Johnson, removed to Shonai. 
This was a city of 25,000 people, and the center of a vast and neg- 
lected district. Here a chapel was built at an expense of $300. 
One man had been a notorious drunkard. He accepted Christ as 
his Savior, and became a wonder to all his neighbors. They said 
that if the Gospel could work such a mighty change, it is worthy of 
all acceptation. 

Two years later it was decided to make Tokyo the central 
station. It was a good thing in many ways that they went to Akita 
in the beginning of the work. Mr. Greathouse, American Consul- 
General to Japan, said that this was one of the causes of the more 
general dispersion of missionaries over the Empire that took place 
from that time forward. It was a good thing for the workers them- 
selves. The experience gained was invaluable. They were able to 
preach sooner than if they had remained in a large city where the 
audiences are more critical. Nevertheless, Tokyo was the natural 



WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN JAPAN 93 

center of the work in Japan. People are constantly going there 
from all the provinces. From Tokyo they could go out in all direc- 
tions. The fact that they came from the capital would give them a 
standing that they could not have otherwise. Before leaving the 
north they placed .the work in the hands of Japanese evangelists. 
At the present time Saito San has charge of the work in Akita. 
Noto San lives and conducts services at Tsuchizaki. Kudo San is 
at Innai. Yokotsura San is at Arakawa. Tashiro San is at Honjo. 
Shonai is vacant, but expects to be supplied soon. Kawamura San 
is at Akodzu. There are chapels at all these points except Innai 
and Akodzu, and they are arranging to build. The workers in 
Tokyo visit these churches from time to time. Lately Miss Johnson 
spent forty days on such a visit and addressed many people. Mrs. 
Garst spent two weeks, and so spoke that ten were baptized. 

Several of the workers sent out are no longer on the field. 
Those in Tokyo and their work are about as follows: C. E. Garst 
preaches in the city and makes tours into the country. He pre- 
pares tracts for general circulation, and does whatever else he can 
to advance the interests of the kingdom. Mrs. Garst teaches the 
women and the children and assists in all the services. Miss John- 
son has a charity school, a meeting for women, a Bible-class, and 
goes out on tours. E. S. Stevens, Dr. Nina A. Stevens, Miss 
Lavinia Oldham, and Miss Mary Rioch reached Japan three years 
ago. Mr. Stevens has charge of one chapel, teaches a Bible-class, 
teaches English in the Young Men's Christian Association, and 
studies the language. Dr. Stevens teaches a Bible-class and carries 
on her medical work. Miss Oldham conducts three Sunday-schools, 
two charity schools, two Bible meetings for women and one English 
Bible-class. Miss Rioch has charge of the Girls' Home and Train- 
ing School, conducts a charity school and a Bible meeting for 
women. Mr. and Mrs. Guy came out two years ago. He has 
charge of one chapel, teaches a Bible-class, teaches English in the 
Young Men's Christian Association, superintends the buildings in 
course of erection, and studies the language. Mrs. Guy has charge 
of a charity school and a Bible meeting for women. Three Japa- 
nese evangelists aid the work, namely, Nishioka San, Imai San, and 
Yoshida San. 

Other workers have served in Japan. Five years ago Miss 
Loduska Wirick was sent out by the Belle Bennett Band of Drake 
University. She is now at home on furlough. She did a good 
work, and her praises are heard on all sides. Nearly three years 
ago W. K. Azbill, J. M. McCaleb and wife, Miss Lucia M. Scott, 



94 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Miss Carmi Hostetter and K. Ishikawa came out. Mr. McCaleb 
has built a chapel and preaches in it and at a station out in the 
country, publishes a Sunday-school paper and tracts, and conducts 
a Bible-class in his own house. Miss Scott assists in the Sunday 
services, teaches English ten hours a week, conducts a large charity 
school, teaches the children singing, assists in the meetings for 
women, and gives some time every day to the language. Miss Hos- 
tetter has a day school and conducts meetings for women. A suit- 
able building has been erected. She teaches in the Sunday-school 
and has a Bible-class for young men in her own home. In addition, 
she teaches English ten hours a week in a large school. Ishikawa 
San teaches in a college for girls; teaches English to several, and 
aids in preaching. Mr. Azbill returned to America within a year. 
His purpose was to secure more workers. He is in Japan again. 
He has a preaching place where meetings are held three times a 
week. He gives lessons to two Bible-classes in connection with the 
Meiji-Jo-Gakko, and gives instruction three times a week to a gen- 
tleman who is making a special study of Christianity. As he can 
find time he engages in literary work. He has in preparation two 
small volumes — one on Baptism and one on the History of the New 
Testament Books. With the assistance of Miss Scott and Miss 
Hostetter, he is arranging to put up a chapel. Miss Alice Miller 
reached Japan last April. She teaches three Bible-classes a week; 
lias a class in English in the Sunday-school; with the help of sev- 
eral Christian girls conducts an afternoon Sunday-school, and 
teaches English four hours a week in the Meiji-Jo-Gakko. If the 
time needed for correspondence and entertainment and the study of 
the language is considered, it will be seen that these workers have 
their hands full. 

The Disciples of Christ stand for precisely the same thing in 
Japan that they do at home, namely, the union of all believers to 
the end that the whole world may be evangelized. It is true that 
most Protestant missionaries cooperate. Still there are differences 
in faith and in practice that can not be hid. It is no answer to say 
that Buddhism has many sects. Then there are the wider differ- 
ences between Protestants and Roman Catholics and Greeks. If all 
who call upon the name of the Lord could unite, the chief hin- 
drance to the spread of the Gospel would be taken out of the way. 
The Japanese want the very thing for which we plead. They want 
the Christianity of Christ, and not the creeds, or dogmas, or theolo- 
gies, or customs of men. One of the ablest men in Japan says that 
there are hardly any of his countrymen who are loyal to the creeds 



WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN JAPAN 95 

and dogmas which constitute the foundations of the several denom- 
inations. Common believers, he adds, have been ignorant, from 
the beginning, of sects and denominations; but never before have 
these been so coldly disregarded by the ministers and officers in the 
churches as now. One prevailing current throughout all denomina- 
tions is church union, and this current is growing stronger and 
higher and swifter. Leading men in the churches pay most diligent 
attention to the practical question of church union, and utterly 
none to the preservation of the denominations. All are waiting 
anxiously for the time and the man to take the final step toward a 
glorious reformation in Japan. The Japanese desire and pray for 
what we desire and pray, that there may be one flock, one Shepherd. 
Now is the time for us to publish far and wide the truth which we 
hold, and thereby help the Japanese to realize that which they so 
devoutly wish. 



XIY. 

CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN. 

Japan was opened to the Gospel in July, 1859. Before the close 
of the year six missionaries, representing three American societies, 
were on the ground. One was here two months before the date 
named in the treaty. The Japanese signified their desire to receive 
whatever foreigners might bring, except opium and Christianity. 
A nation professedly Christian had forced opium on China. The 
Japanese thought these two things were one and inseparable. It 
is plain that they did not know what Christianity really is. The 
first workers were closely watched. All business with them was 
under the strictest surveillance. For a time no teacher could be 
engaged, and then only a government spy. For several years the 
people were not accessible on religious matters. When the subject 
was opened to one he would place his hand to his throat to indicate 
the extreme peril of the topic. It was impossible to find an audi- 
ence that dared to listen to the preaching of the Gospel. For two 
hundred and fifty years it was a capital crime for a Japanese to con- 
fess faith in the Christ. Bulletin boards in all parts of the Empire 
were covered with edicts to that effect. The missionaries were 
believed to be persons who came to the "God-country" to seduce 
the people from their loyalty to the Emperor, and to corrupt their 
morals generally. Christianity was regarded with feelings of 
intense hatred and fear. Its advocates were exposed to insult and 
assault. The soldiers scowled on them as they passed them in the 
street, and would gladly have expelled them as barbarians from the 
sacred soil. The government was confessedly hostile. As late as 
1868 several thousand Roman Catholics were torn from their homes 
and confined in prisons in different parts of the Empire. Lest any 
one should mistake its temper, and think that an era of toleration 
had begun, a new edict was placed on the boards: "The evil sect 
called Christian is strictly prohibited. Suspected persons are to 
be reported to the respective officials, and rewards will be given." 
Years after this a book-seller in Kobe was asked if he would be 
allowed to sell English Bibles. His reply was that any book-seller 
who sold a Bible, knowing it to be a Bible, would have to go to 



CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN 97 

prison. It will be seen that the statement made after the signing 
of the treaties, to the effect that Japan was fully opened to the 
spread of Christianity, is far from accurate. 

The missionaries were not cast down. They felt confident that 
in God's good time the Empire would be opened. They could not 
preach. in public, but they did what they could. They studied the 
language, prepared grammars and dictionaries, translated portions 
of the Scriptures, and relieved the unfortunate. They opened 
schools and taught the English language and Western science. Dr. 
Hepburn opened a hospital and relieved the sufferings and attended 
to the spiritual needs of thousands. His surgical operations aston- 
ished the Japanese, and did much to create a demand for foreign 
medicine. They sought, above all, by pure and upright lives and 
kindness, to convince the people that they Were not such beings as 
they believed. Dr. Verbeck was told that there were spies in his 
house. He said he was glad to hear it. The more spies there were 
about the better. There was nothing in his house or in his life to 
conceal. 

The schools opened by the missionaries were the means under 
God of securing a measure of good will and toleration. The sol- 
diers were the literary class, and they wanted to study English. 
They saw in English the key to Western science. Men of this class 
weni to the missionaries and asked to be taught English. The gov- 
ernment sent a dozen young men of rank to a mission school for 
the same purpose. That event marked an epoch. It indicated a 
change in the minds of the officials respecting the character and 
motives of the missionaries. It was a practical recognition of them 
and of their work. When schools were opened in Nagasaki and 
Tokyo, missionaries were invited to teach in them. We read of 
an English engineer and a French corporal being engaged to teach, 
but the missionaries were by far the most competent teachers avail- 
able. They advised the government in all matters pertaining to 
education. They helped to secure able teachers from America and 
to locate the young men sent to America to be educated. 

The first church was organized in Yokohama in 1872. That was 
thirteen years after the arrival of the first workers. It was still a 
crime, punishable by death, to become a Christian. The pro- 
hibitory edicts were still unrepealed. But there was a better feel- 
ing on the part of the people and the authorities. The missionaries 
had, by their Christian character and conduct and patient labor, 
dispelled many false notions. They had carried themselves before 
7 



98 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

their pupils in the schools and elsewhere in such a way as to compel 
their respect. Embassies had been sent to Europe and America. 
They expected to find barbarous nations. They took a supply of 
salt along among their effects, thinking that they would not find 
that useful article for sale. They found a degree of material pros- 
perity and a civilization far surpassing what they had anticipated, 
and far surpassing anything they had at home. They found that 
the ablest statesmen and the profoundest scholars regarded Chris- 
tianity as the chief power working for righteousness and for 
national prosperity. They found that Christianity produced the 
Jiighest type of manhood. These embassies were received by Chris- 
tian nations with distinguished consideration. It was impossible 
for them to feel as they had felt. They could no longer regard 
Christian men with horror and aversion, and Christianity as a men- 
ace to the welfare of the nation. They could not but feel some 
reverence for the faith of Christendom. So, while the laws pro- 
hibiting Christianity were not repealed, it was believed that they 
would not be enforced. The laws against a Japanese returning 
were still in force, but they were a dead letter. It was felt that if 
there were any executions they would be the last. Eleven men 
united to form a church. Their expectations were not disap- 
pointed; they were not molested. 

The next year the edicts were taken down. This was due to the 
work of the missionaries. In 1871, Mr. Gulick's Japanese teacher 
was suspected of being a Christian at heart. He was interested, 
but had not been baptized. At dead of night he and his wife were 
arrested and sent off to prison. The American Minister and Con- 
sul pleaded for his release, but their plea was without effect. After 
some time it was discovered that they had been imprisoned in 
Kyoto, and that the teacher died there. When the second embassy 
went to the United States to urge that the treaty be revised, Ham- 
ilton Fish told them that so long as Japan did not repeal the laws 
against Christianity, the United States would not consent to place 
its citizens under Japanese jurisdiction. The embassy denied that 
there was any religious persecution in Japan. Mr. DeLong, former 
Minister, mentioned the case of Mr. Gulick's teacher, and stated 
that the matter had been brought under his official notice. No 
answer was made to his statement, but in a little while the edicts 
were taken down. It was said that they were sufficiently engraved 
on the minds of the people. Oriental rulers are slow to admit any 
change of policy or any abrogation of law. The removal of the 
edicts virtually amounted to a declaration of liberty of conscience. 



CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN 99 

The people understood it so, and the government was quite willing 
that this construction should be placed upon its action. That was 
the last of religious persecution. The Roman Catholics that had 
been sent to prison five years before were liberated and allowed to 
return to their homes.. That year twenty-nine new workers reached 
Japan. This was the largest number that had ever been sent out 
in one year. The translation of the Scriptures by a committee rep- 
resenting all the societies wishing to aid in the work was begun, 
and three years later the government ordered the observance of 
Sunday. 

The Christianizing of Japan has grown steadily from the first. 
Different societies felt that they must do something in this field. 
Year by year the number of workers has increased. There are 
thirty societies operating in Japan. The whole number of Prot- 
estant missionaries is six hundred and twenty-five. There are four 
hundred organized churches. Of these ninety-one are self-support- 
ing, and two hundred and seventy partially so. The Protestant 
Christians number thirty-nine thousand two hundred and forty. 
There are twenty high grade schools for boys, fifty-one for girls, 
and twenty theological schools, with three hundred and fifty-three 
students. There are two hundred and fifty-eight Japanese minis- 
ters, and two hundred and nine Bible women at work. There are 
fifty-seven Endeavor Societies, fifty Young Men's Christian Associ- 
ations, eighteen societies of King's Daughters, twenty-nine orphan- 
ages, and one hundred night, industrial and special schools and 
classes. The Scriptures have been translated, and a million copies 
circulated; each year seventy-five thousand copies are sold. VThere 
are some forty weekly, monthly, or quarterly newspapers or maga- 
zines under Christian management. The American Board sent its 
first workers to Japan in 1869. This Board has more missionaries 
in Japan than any other. These workers have organized sixty 
churches with a total membership of eleven thousand. Of these 
churches forty are self-supporting. The converts are taught that 
the churches must be self-supporting and self-governing. The 
Roman Catholics and the Greeks are at work in this field. The 
Catholics report forty-nine thousand two hundred and eighty mem- 
bers, and the Greek Church twenty-two thousand. Once it was 
thought that Japan would be a Christian nation before the end of 
the present century. President Kozaki speaks of this thought as 
the air-castle of children. No one speaks now of the immediate 
conversion of Japan; no one doubts the ultimate triumph of the 
Gospel in this land. 



100 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

It was the earnest desire of the missionaries that they should 
cooperate to form one native church. They wanted to secure unity 
of name and organization. They wished all converts to be per- 
fectly joined together in the same mind and the same judgment, to 
all speak the same thing, and to wear the same name. They sought 
not to import the differences that exist at home. The Japanese 
cannot understand these. If they did, they have no interest in per- 
petuating them. Their desire was to reproduce the apostolic doc- 
trine, the apostolic ordinances, and the apostolic life. Their 
purpose was opposed and thwarted by friends at home who wanted 
to be able to see and count results. Among the workers love and 
good will prevail. They respect one another's convictions. They 
unite as far as they can. Three bodies united to form one. These 
were substantially alike in doctrine and in polity. The preaching 
and teaching of the missionaries is pre-eminently Biblical. This 
brings them close together. In the presence of Buddhism or Con- 
fucianism and Shintoism and secularism, they feel the need of har- 
mony and cooperation. The lengthy creeds of Christendom have 
no place here. Whether men like it or not, there is a necessity 
for a return to the simplicity of the apostolic church. It is worthy 
of special mention that the eleven men that formed themselves into 
a church in Yokohama called their organization a "Church of 
Christ." The missionary was a representative of the Reformed 
Church in America, but that was no reason for calling the church 
in Japan a Reformed Church. These men knew nothing of John 
Calvin or of his teaching as distinguished from that of Luther. 
The churches organized by the workers under the American Board 
call themselves "Churches of Christ." They are Congregational 
in polity, but that is not intimated in the name adopted. The 
three churches that united called the resultant the "Japanese 
Church of Christ." These churches are Presbyterian in their gov- 
ernment, but that is an incident. In Japan what they wish to 
emphasize is that they belong to Christ, and stand for him. The 
church of the future will be a united church with a scriptural creed. 



XV. 
TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS. 

In the Imperial Museum in Tokyo I saw some engravings rep- 
resenting Christ on the cross. The plates are of bronze, and are 
fastened to blocks of wood. These engravings have a history. 
Nothing in the museum stirred me so deeply. It is generally known 
that Christianity entered Japan about the middle of the sixteenth 
century. For a time it was regarded with favor. After a while, 
for reasons of state, the authorities decided to extirpate it. In the 
persecution resorted to with this end in view, these engravings 
were used to discover secret believers. The people were called 
upon to trample on the figure of Christ on the cross. As many as 
did so were not molested ; those that refused were turned over to 
the tormentors. 

Francis Xavier landed in Japan in 1549. In Malacca he made 
the acquaintance of two Japanese exiles. These were instructed 
and baptized. Xavier heard of a Japanese prince who desired that 
Christian teachers be sent to him that he might learn from their 
own lips the truths of Christianity. His heart had long been set 
on visiting Japan. The way now seemed open. Taking the two 
Japanese Christians as helpers, he sailed for Japan. The prince 
received him with marked courtesy. Xavier studied the language, 
but only a little. He was never able to preach in Japanese so as 
to be understood. Speaking through interpreters, he won many to 
the faith. Nobles, priests, scholars, and the poor and ignorant, 
were among the converts. Xavier went to the capital, but found 
it desolated by war and fires. He tried to preach, but could not 
get the attention of the people. He was disgusted, and left Japan 
disheartened by the realities of missionary work. He was in the 
country less than three years, but he left an impression that has 
never been effaced. He died soon after at the age of forty-six. 
The work did not cease with his departure. Others took up the 
task he abandoned, and won great success. Christianity spread 
rapidly in the South, and was carried to the farthest provinces of 
the North. In 1581 the converts amounted to one hundred and 

fifty thousand. The staff of workers numbered one hundred and 

101 



102 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

thirty-eight. They were Jesuits without exception. Two years-- 
later an embassy was sent by the believing princes to Rome. In 
their letters they declared their gratitude for the happiness vouch- 
safed to them through the knowledge of Christ. They begged the 
Pope to look with favor upon them and upon all the Christians in 
their dominions. They declared themselves the vassals of the 
Holy See. This embassy was received in Rome with the greatest 
honors. At one time there were six hundred thousand Christians 
in the Empire. The Japanese say there were two million. 

The Portuguese were the first to enter Japan as traders. The 
Jesuits came with them. The profitableness of this trade led the 
Spaniards to send ships to Japan. With the Spaniards came the 
Franciscans and the Dominicans. The priests and monks soon 
began to quarrel among themselves. The Jesuits were first on 
the ground, and regarded all others as interlopers. Each party cir- 
culated evil reports about the motives and intentions of the other. 
Soon after this the English and Dutch arrived on the scene. 
They wanted a share in the profits of this trade. They saw that it 
was largely through the influence of the Jesuits that the Portu- 
guese had a monopoly of the commerce with Japan. They went 
to work to break down this influence. They confirmed the eviL 
reports that the Jesuits invented about the Franciscans, and the 
evil reports that the Franciscans invented about the Jesuits. 
High Japanese officials became suspicious of all parties. A sea 
captain was asked how Spain was able to conquer so many nations. 
His reply was, "Our country sends missionaries to convert the 
heathen, and after a while we send the army. Then the Christians 
help us, and the victory is easy and complete." Hideyoshi, the 
greatest statesman and soldier of Japan, was in power at the time. 
He resolved that he would make such a course impossible. He 
issued an edict calling upon all foreign religious teachers to leave 
the country within twenty days, on penalty of death. He declared 
that it was wrong for God's country to accept a false faith from a. 
foreign nation. 

When the Jesuits had the power in Japan, they prevailed upon 
the princes to compel their subjects to follow their example and 
to adopt the Christian faith. One prince gave his subjects the 
option of conversion or exile. Another did the same, and robbed 
Buddhist priests of their temples and lands. Princes used their 
authority to advance the cause of Catholicism. Hideyoshi re- 
garded the foreign religious teachers and their doctrine as a source 
of danger to the country. With him the question was purely polit- 



TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS 103 

ical. The two systems could not live in peace side by side. His 
thought was that the simplest and safest course was to expel the 
weaker of the two. He gave orders that the European and Japa- 
nese members of the religious orders should be sent out of the 
country, that all churches should be torn down, and all the con- 
verts compelled to renounce their faith. The priests were pru- 
dent, and shut themselves up till the storm should become a calm. 
They gave attention to the preparation of books and to the educa- 
tion of a native ministry. Meanwhile they carried on their work 
quietly. The converts numbered ten thousand a year. 

It was not long, however, until the persecutions broke out 
afresh. This was caused in part by the conduct of the Portuguese 
and Spanish priests. Their national and sectarian antipathies 
were aggravated by contact on the field. Each slandered the other. 
The Buddhist priests did all in their power to poison the minds of 
the rulers against the foreigners. The government went to work 
to destroy Christianity, root and branch. Rewards were offered to 
any who would inform where believers were to be found. Thus 
three hundred pieces of silver were offered to one who would 
inform against a father; two hundred to one who would inform 
against a brother, and fifty to any one who would inform against 
a catechist. Later these rewards were doubled. It is said by an 
historian that these persecutions have never been surpassed for 
cruelty and brutality, or for the courage and constancy of the suf- 
ferers. We are told how they were hurled from lofty precipices, 
of their being buried alive, or being torn asunder by oxen, of 
their being placed in rice bags and heaped together and set on fire. 
Others were tortured before death by having spikes driven under 
the nails of their hands and feet. Others were shut up in cages 
and starved with food in sight. In one year three hundred and 
eighty-four persons were tortured, including beating with clubs, 
and burning and torture by the boiling springs. The hot water was 
poured over them, and they were compelled to breathe the suffo- 
cating sulphurous air which the springs emitted. In some 
instances the back was slit open, and the boiling water poured on 
the raw flesh. Naked wojnen were compelled to walk on their 
hands and knees through the streets of the city. Some were hung 
by the feet over a deep pit. The suffering was unimaginable. The 
pressure on the brain was terrible; blood was forced from the mouth 
and nostrils. The victims lived sometimes eight or nine days before 
death came to their relief. One girl lived fifteen days, and died in 
the faith. Twelve persons were captured in hiding, near Nagasaki; 



104 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

they were branded with a hot iron on the forehead and then on 
each cheek, and then, because they would not recant, they were 
burned. Prices were placed on the heads of priests. If a priest 
was found in any household, the whole family was put to death. 
The early history of the church has no brighter pages than those 
that contain the records of martyrdoms in Japan. Parents took 
their children with them to death rather than let them be educated 
in the ancient faith. 

Some were driven to desperation and raised the standard of 
rebellion. In connection with some political malcontents they 
seized and fortified a castle. It took an army of 160,000 men two 
months to reduce this fortress. Had it not been for the big Dutch 
ship and guns which the Japanese borrowed, it may have been that 
they would not have reduced it at all. Every man and woman and 
child in the castle was put to death. Then it was that the govern- 
ment resolved to exterminate Christianity at any cost. Hundreds 
of native priests and missionaries were collected and placed on 
board junks and sent out of the country. Buddhist priests were 
deputed to paganize the converts. An edict prohibiting "the evil 
sect" was published in all parts of the Empire. Another said that 
so long as the sun shines no Christian shall enter Japan and no 
native leave it. Griffis says that all over the Empire, in every 
city, town, village and hamlet, by the roadside, ferry, or mountain 
pass; at every entrance to the capital, stood the public notice 
boards, on which, with prohibitions against the great crimes that 
disturb the relations of society and government, was one tablet, 
written with a deeper brand of guilt, with a more hideous memory 
of blood, with a more awful terror of torture, than when a like 
superscription was affixed at the top of a cross that stood between 
two thieves on a little hill outside of Jerusalem. "That name 
would bate the breath, blanch the cheek, smite with fear as an 
earthquake shock. It was a synonym of sorcery, sedition, and all 
that was hostile to the purity of the home or to the peace of 
society. That name was Christ." 

Nagasaki was the center and stronghold of the new faith. A 
governor was appointed and commissioned' to root out every vestige 
of Christianity. He went to work resolved upon complete success. 
He selected a headman for every street and an overseer for every 
five houses. He held them responsible for their districts. Not 
content with that, he himself went through every street and into 
every house, and examined every person. If the inmates were not 
Christians, or had renounced their faith, he did not trouble them. 




1. Josephine Smith's Grave. 

2. Josephine Smith Memorial Chapel, Akita, Japan. 

3. Sue A. Robinson's Grave, Hurda. India. 



TRAMPLING ON THE CROSS 105 

If not, they were sent off to be tortured. In order to make assur- 
ance doubly sure, lie adopted the novel method already alluded to 
in this article to detect secret believers. He had a picture of 
Christ on the cross, and he required the people to demonstrate 
their unbelief by trampling on it. This picture was carried from 
house to house till the whole city was finished. The head of the 
house, the whole family, servants of both sexes, old and young, any 
visitors or sojourners, were called into the room. Each was asked 
to set his foot on the plate. Infants were carried by their mothers 
and made to place their feet on the image of the Crucified. The 
Japanese who worked in the Dutch factory were required to do the 
same. Before the persecution began, whole districts were virtually 
Christian ; Nagasaki was distinctively a Christian city. In 1567 it 
is said that there was hardly a person within its borders who was 
not a Christian. In 1629 not one was left who would acknowledge 
that he was a believer. The governor was proud of the fact that 
he had accomplished the task assigned him. 

Before the end of the seventeenth century it was believed that 
Christianity had been so completely eradicated from Japan that its 
existence was historical. It was regarded only as "an awful scar 
on the national memory." No vestige of it was believed to remain. 
The Dutch had one trading port near Nagasaki. Here less than 
twenty Hollanders lived under surveillance. They were allowed 
one ship a year to come and trade with Japan. They were granted 
this because they did not engage in any religious propagandise; 
their sole object was trade. But the fire smouldered for more than 
two centuries ; it had not gone out. After Japan was opened, sev- 
eral thousand Catholics were discovered in the villages near 
Nagasaki. Chamberlain says that without priests, without teach- 
ers, without almost any published instructions, they had kept alive 
a knowledge of the religion which their ancestors had professed. 
They had the Lord's Prayer, and a few other prayers, and the ordi- 
nance of baptism. There was great joy over this discovery. But 
the old hatred and fear were still alive. In 1868 the government 
arrested four thousand of these people and sent them off to prison. 
They were scattered among thirty-four prisons, and condemned to 
hard labor. Lest any one should misunderstand the spirit of the 
Emperor, new edicts were put up. These said: "The evil sect 
called Christians is strictly prohibited. Such persons should be 
reported to the proper officers, and rewards will be given." These 
edicts were not taken down till 1873. Then these Christians were 



106 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

set at liberty and returned to their homes. The Constitution guar- 
antees to every Japanese religious liberty. 

This incideut shows how useless it is to fight against God. It 
would be as easy to keep out the sunshine, or keep out the tides, as 
to keep out Christianity. Fire and sword cannot prevail against 
the Omnipotent. It is his purpose that the whole world shall be 
filled with his glory, and his purpose is never defeated. Tycoon 
and Mikado may issue prohibitory edicts, but their edicts shall 
come to naught. Yesterday I walked the streets of Nagasaki and 
saw Christians everywhere. The hilltops are crowned with Chris- 
tian schools and chapels and homes. I looked into the homes of 
the people where the inquisitors did their work, and where the ter- 
rified inmates trampled on the cross. I saw the rock in the harbor 
from which those who refused to recant were thrown. In the bay 
are ships representing all Christian nations. The Shogunate, 
which originated and directed the persecution, has passed away like 
a dream of night. It shows, too, something of the indestructibility 
of Christianity. If a corrupted faith could survive for centuries in 
the absence of the Scriptures and qualified leaders, what may we 
not expect from Christianity in its purity and where its exponents 
have the Word of God in their own tongue? It shows us once 
more that the Japanese are not so fickle as is sometimes claimed. 
Perhaps no other people would have resisted unto blood with fewer 
cases of apostasy, or would have endured so long with so little to 
cheer and encourage them. No one can pay a higher tribute to the 
Japanese than to recite this chapter in their history. No other 
answer is needed when they are charged with being as unstable as 
water. This incident affords all who labor and pray for the evan- 
gelization of Japan sure ground for the conviction that their labor 
is not in vain in the Lord. 



XVI. 
SOME CUKIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN. 

For several centuries Japan had no intercourse with the rest of 
the world. As a result, her people differ in many respects from 
Western nations. One of the things that impress a stranger is the 
fact that mechanics and tradesmen sit at their work. A blacksmith 
has his forge and anvil and vise on the ground. He sits on the 
floor while using his hammer and tongs. He can blow his bellows 
with his hand or with his toes, as he prefers. A cooper sits at his 
work. He uses his feet to hold his materials in place. Carpenters, 
stone-cutters and cabinet-makers sit at their work. An American 
could do almost nothing in that posture. A Japanese does nothing 
while standing that he could do while seated. What is true of 
mechanics is true of merchants. They do not stand while waiting 
for customers, or while trying to sell their goods. They sit on 
their feet, and are prepared to bow to any one who calls to examine 
their wares. Hotel clerks and book-keepers in the stores sit on the 
floor behind their desks. The Buddha is represented as sitting on 
a lotus blossom. Having attained to perfect knowledge, and hav- 
ing conquered passion, he reposes in eternal slumber. He is never 
represented as "going about doing good." 

One sees few labor-saving machines. The Japanese have not 
used their intellects to make life easier and more comfortable for 
themselves. They have not utilized the mighty forces of nature to 
bear their burdens and to do their work. There are a few high smoke- 
stacks, but these are confined to the large cities. These are of yes- 
terday and represent foreign capital and foreign methods. Most of 
the articles produced in Japan are produced by hand and in a small 
way. Horses are used, but these horses are either weak or the peo- 
ple think they are. You will see a man in the shafts pulling with a 
breaststrap, while a horse is pulling ahead of him, and his wife or 
his boy leads the horse. The load may not weigh over six hundred 
pounds. An American horse would pull the load and the man and 
his family, and scarcely feel the burden. In the North of Japan I 
saw men driving piles by hand. A steam hammer would do more 
work in an hour than these men could do in a week. Men saw logs 

107 



108 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

with a hand-saw. One of our workers told a carpenter how timber 
was sawed in America. The carpenter did not believe him. He 
said, "I have been in this business twenty-five years, and I know 
you are saying what is not true." As simple a thing as a wheel- 
barrow is not seen anywhere. Men carry clay and stone on their 
shoulders. Large junks are propelled by oars or poles. A steam 
tug would drive a fleet of such craft. Where labor is so cheap as it 
is in Japan men have not felt that it was necessary to make steam 
and electricity do their work. It has not occurred to them that 
the forces of nature are the cheapest and most efficient of all 
servants. 

Policemen are everywhere. They are found on almost every 
corner in the cities. They are in the smallest villages. There are 
ten times as many policemen in Tokyo as there are in Chicago or 
London. The people are quiet and orderly. I saw but one drunken 
man and no fighting. The Japanese are easily excited. It is 
cheaper to prevent than to put down a riot. The police are feared 
and respected. They represent the imperial government. They do 
not bear the sword in vain. You see soldiers in all the streets. 
They are going to and fro all the time. An officer rides along, and 
a footman runs before to clear the way if need be. The footman 
carries his umbrella when the sun does not shine. In a mon- 
archial country there is greater need of police and a standing army 
than in a republic. In a republic the people are rulers. That 
form of government could not exist if the people were not instinct- 
ively law-abiding. The home of the President of the United States 
is very much like the home of any other gentleman. It needs no 
deep and wide moats, no high walls, no gates and sentries. 

The dress of the people challenges attention. The ordinary 
dress of a man is not unlike that of a woman, except that a woman 
wears a large bustle. This is worn as an ornament. In summer 
the people as a rule wear nothing on their heads. The women 
arrange their hair tastefully; they wear neither hat nor bonnet. I 
have seen one Japanese woman, and only one, wearing a hat. She 
was dressed throughout as a foreigner. The jinricksha men wear a 
hat that looks like a wash-basin turned upside down. It is cool and 
comfortable. Some wear a cloth tied about their heads. You will 
see tens of thousands with no covering of any kind. Nearly every 
man and woman carries an umbrella. In winter both men and 
women wear something to protect their heads against the cold. 
Their foot-gear is peculiar. Many wear nothing. Others wear 
straw sandals. They are said to be very easy on the feet. Many 



SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN 109 

wear wooden clogs. They add about three inches to their stature. 
They are held on the feet by a thong which passes between the great 
toe and the next. Stockings are made with an apartment for the 
great toe. When several hundred people get off a train and walk 
on a stone pavement the noise is almost deafening. The clogs are 
a convenience in muddy weather. Soldiers, policemen, trainmen, 
mail-carriers and many others are dressed like Americans. In the 
interior the women that carry firewood and hay and truck on 
their backs are dressed like men. More remarkable than anything 
else is the scantiness of the dress of the multitudes. Thousands of 
men wear nothing but a loin-cloth. The low-necked dresses worn 
in some circles at home would not provoke any criticism or com- 
ment here. 

The houses are unlike ours. There is no cellar; because of the 
frequent earthquakes, cellars are dispensed with. There is no 
chimney. The fire is in a pit in the center of a room. The smoke 
goes out in its own way. As the house is open more or less on 
every side, the smoke goes out without any trouble. The houses 
are small and low. In Tokyo there are only a few houses three 
stories high. Most of them are one story. The majority are of 
wood. It is not at all strange that the average life of a house is 
seven years. Because fires are so frequent, many families have a 
room that is fireproof. In this room the treasures are usually kept. 
It is only recently that the Japanese began to use glas§. They used 
paper instead. There is almost no privacy about an ordinary home. 
The passerby can see into every room in the house. The family 
cooks and eats where it can be seen by all. The first thing a mer- 
chant does in the morning is to take down the whole front of his 
place. His goods are all virtually on the street. There is nothing 
that is not in view. In hotels the bath-tub is in a place to which 
men and women resort. The wealthy people live in a compound. 
In the castles of the nobles, the retainers occupied the front rooms 
and the families the rooms in the rear. If an attack was made on 
the castle, the retainers were expected to bear the brunt of it. 
The best rooms were in the back part of the building. But the 
houses of the common people are open on all sides. 

The Japanese do not shake hands; they bow instead. Friends 
meet and bow. Christians meet in church and do the same. 
When the meeting is in a room where the people sit on the floor, 
the bowing surprises a visitor. They touch the floor several 
times with their heads. Everyone that comes in bows to those 
present. This bowing takes time, and seems somewhat tedious at 



110 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

first, but it is not so to them. They are not in such haste as we 
are. They are anxious that what is done should be done properly. 
They would rather sacrifice time than good taste. They do not 
demand that a sermon be compressed within thirty minutes or less. 
No matter how long one speaks, if he has a message for them, they 
will listen without manifesting any sign of weariness. They do not 
look at their watches and show by their restlessness that they are 
eager for the end. A friend told me of a service held in a temple 
on the invitation of the priest in charge, which lasted from nine 
one morning till one the next. Nothing pleases them better than 
three or four sermons in succession. The theaters are open from 
ten in the morning till seven in the evening. The Japanese are the 
most patient and polite people on the globe. They take time to 
be courteous. They would rather live on less than disregard the 
proprieties of life. 

There are other strange things in this beautiful country. For 
example, you take off your shoes before entering a house or a 
hotel or a temple. It would be regarded as an insult not to do 
this. It would be the same as to walk on the table or a bed with 
shoes on. The floors are covered with mats that would be dam- 
aged if this was not done. The shoes are made with this end in 
view. They can be removed in an instant. At home we take off 
our hats. Children are carried on the back rather than in the 
arms. Sometimes they are tied in position. Sometimes a garment 
is worn with a place in it for the child. A sister or mother can 
play or work with an infant on her back. The child falls asleep. 
Its head swings about. The flies gather upon its face. It does not 
seem to mind these things. Men and women seldom ride or walk 
together. The carriages are made for one person. Young men 
and young women do not associate as in America. The streets are 
full of people, but each one is under his own umbrella and manag- 
ing his own affairs. Horses are led, and not driven. A man goes 
before and the horse follows. Books begin where ours end. 
Instead of beginning at the left of the page and reading to the 
right, Japanese begin at the right and read from the top to the 
bottom. What we call foot-notes are placed at the top of the 
pages. Titles follow the name, while ours precede it. Thus we 
say Mr. Tennyson; they say Tennyson Mr. These differences are 
on the surface, and are slight. There are many evidences that the 
Japanese are bone of our bone and flesh of our flesh. We differ in 
language and in methods of work and in habits of thought and in 
social customs, but we are members of one family. We are chil- 



SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN JAPAN 111 

dren of the same Father. We have been redeemed by the same 
sacrifice. We are heirs of a common inheritance. One is not long 
in Japan before one begins to feel that he is at home. He soon 
realizes that he is among friends and kinsmen. 

Japan is becoming more like a Western nation every day. Dr. 
Greene says that Japan is in the East, but really belongs to the 
West. Changes are taking place all the time. Many men are 
adopting the foreign dress. The hat is worn by thousands who 
dress in the Japanese style. Foreign shoes are worn. The native 
dress, picturesque and comfortable as it is, is giving place. Labor- 
saving machines are coming slowly into .use. Already we see the 
railway and the street-car taking the place of the coolies. The 
nobles used to be carried on the shoulders of men; now they are 
borne in special trains. The sewing machine is seen in many 
places. Modern tools are exposed for sale and are seen in use. 
Cobble-stones were once widely used to hold shingles in place; 
now wire nails are used instead, to a certain extent. The people 
are learning to shake hands. Husbands and wives go out together 
as they did not formerly. Some of the brightest men in Japan 
have been educated in America or in Europe. Others have trav- 
eled extensively. They are determined that their country shall in 
no respect be behind any other nation on the globe. The changes 
that have already taken place are great; the changes that are tak- 
ing place now are even greater. 



XVII. 

FEOM TOKYO TO KOBE. 

The original plan contemplated a visit to the South of Japan, 
after visiting the North, and after seeing the work in Tokyo. The 
South is by far the most populous part of the Empire. It is des- 
tined to become more and more so. There is some thought of 
opening a work in the South. Accordingly, C. E. Garst came 
with me as far as Kobe, that he might survey the field and ascer-> 
tain its needs. Dr. Butchart, of China, had been in Japan for a 
few weeks, hoping to be able to expel the malaria from his system. 
He was on his way home, and joined us. The morning we left 
Tokyo the Christians began to call at an early hour. They accom- 
panied us to the station. Some walked five miles to see us off and 
to say farewell. The Japanese welcome the coming and speed the 
departing guest. The missionaries were out in force. I took my 
leave of them, feeling that they had a difficult task in hand, and 
feeling that they are doing their best to perform it. When I left 
I had a greater admiration for them, if possible, and a higher 
opinion of their practical wisdom and persistency and faith and 
patience than I had when I arrived. God bless this faithful band. 

Our first stop was at Kamakura. This place was once the capi- 
tal of Japan. Once it had a population of a million souls; now it 
is a small village of fishermen. On the shore the ambassadors who 
came from Kublai Khan to demand the submission of Japan were 
beheaded. Here is a colossal image of Buddha. Once it was 
inclosed by a temple; now there is a temple inside. This image is 
nearly fifty feet high and ninety-seven feet in circumference. The 
head measures seventeen feet from ear to ear. Bayard Taylor 
spoke of it as the most complete work of the Japanese genius, in 
regard both to art and the religious sentiment. The body of the 
image is of bronze, the eyes are of pure gold. We visited 
the temple of the Goddess of Mercy and the temple of the 
God of War. The image of the goddess is thirty feet high, 
and is seen by the light of candles. Recently the priests of 
Kamakura announced the death of Christianity, and fixed the time 

for the burial. Such talk has been heard before. A Roman Em- 
us 



FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 113 

peror wrote on the coins of the Empire, "The Christian religion 
has been destroyed." Somehow Christianity has a charmed life 
and disappoints the predictions and the boasts of those who would 
destroy, and those who think they have destroyed it. Mr. Grarst 
told a funny incident. A priest began his address in the usual style, 
" I am a fool, and my speech is folly and not worthy of attention." 
A Christian in the audience cried out, "Hear! Hear!" The priest 
got hot with anger, and called upon his assistants to put him out. 

Having spent two hours in Kamakura, we took the train for 
Yokohama. We called first at the Bible House. The British and 
Foreign Bible Society, the Scotch and American Societies cooper- 
ate. These societies stand back of every evangelistic effort in 
Japan. They employ seventy colporteurs. The agent told us that 
the attitude of the government towards the sale of the Scriptures, 
was neutral. Other books are sold under license; the Bible is not* 
To license it would be an implied indorsement. The government 
does not prohibit, and it does not encourage the sale. In the war 
with China, the highest officials gave the society permission to dis- 
tribute Bibles among the soldiers. The agent feels that this per- 
mission is the harbinger of a new era. The Emperor has consented 
to receive a Bible. A copy is being prepared. It will be ready in 
a few months for presentation. One of the most hopeful things 
alluded to by the agent was the Bible Readers' Union. There are 
eleven thousand people in Japan reading the same lesson each day. 
About half of these are not believers; a number are priests. 
Yokohama is well supplied with missionaries and mission schools. 
That night we had an earthquake that shook the house and aroused 
the people. The girls squealed, but no harm was done. This is 
the third shock I felt in Japan. * 

The next morning we took the train and resumed our journey. 
Most of the day we were riding along the base of the peerless 
Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of Japan. We saw green fields, 
noble hills, beautiful rivers and the sea. There is no prettier coun- 
try on the globe. We saw scores of quaint villages and the busy 
villagers. We stopped for the night at Nagoya. At this place 
there is one of the most famous castles of Japan. A friend in the 
foreign office sent us a ticket of admission. In the feudal times 
every lord had a castle. Most of these have been destroyed; sev- 
eral have been preserved. This one escaped the vandals. The 
deep and wide moats, the high walls flanked with towers, give one 
an idea of what war in the middle ages was. Before cannons came 
into use, one of these castles would hold an army in check for 



114 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

years. The garrison might starve; it could not be conquered. In 
this city we saw some of the porcelain and cloisonne work for 
which the Japanese artists are so justly famous. In the feudal 
times, the wealth was in the hands of a few. Human life was 
cheap. There were a few lines only in which genius could exert 
itself. The nobles wanted silk fabrics and vases for flowers, and 
scrolls and pictures to adorn their palaces. The Raphaels and 
Angelos and Bacons and Shakespeares were put to work to supply 
this demand. A man might spend his life on one picture or on 
one vase. In this way the arts that adorn life were brought into a 
very high degree of perfection. The Japanese are naturally artis- 
tic; otherwise they could not have produced so many beautiful 
things. We called at an orphanage, and found to our surprise 
that it was a Buddhist institution. The priests have been driven to 
engage in benevolent work in self-defense. They say, " Unless 
we stir ourselves, we cannot hope to hold our ground against such 
energetic, untiring propagandism." In one place they organized a 
kindergarten in opposition to one of our schools. In another, they 
organized their young people into an Endeavor Society. Here they 
were driven to establish an orphanage. 

The next evening we were in Kyoto. This city was the capi- 
tal of Japan for more than a thousand years. In 1868 the Em- 
peror and his court removed to Tokyo. Since then, Kyoto has 
lost in political importance, but it is still incomparably the richest 
city in the Empire in historical associations. Kyoto was and is the 
religious center of Japan. There are 3,500 Buddhist temples, and 
8,000 priests, and 2,500 Shinto shrines and priests. Some of these 
temples cost enough to endow a dozen colleges. Their grounds and 
buildings and altars are magnificent. In one there is an image of 
Buddha fifty-eight feet high. The face is thirty feet long. There 
is a bell that weighs sixty-three tons. It is fourteen feet high, nine 
feet in diameter, and nine inches thick. The finest temple in 
Kyoto is a new one. The old one was destroyed by fire. Several 
millions were required to rebuild. An appeal was issued to the 
nation. The responses were prompt and heavy. Women gave 
their hair to haul the timber. The main building is two hundred 
and ten feet by one hundred and seventy. The ridge of the roof is 
one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. This temple is a work 
of real genius. In another temple there are 33,333 images of the 
Goddess of Mercy. Kyoto is a city of temples. You see them in 
all directions. One street has almost no other buildings from end 
to end. The temple grounds afford the children a fine place for 



FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 115 

play. Families hold picnics under the shade of the trees. Birds 
build their nests under the eaves and in the altars. The temples, as 
such, are dreary places. The priests are the least interesting class 
of people I have seen in Japan. They smoke their pipes, drink tea 
and sake, recite their prayers, and do little else. Near one of the 
temples is the "Ear Monument." An army was sent to conquer 
Korea. Instead of sending home the heads of the vanquished, they 
cut off 10,000 pairs of ears and pickled them in salt and sake and 
sent them home. They were buried and a mound built over them 
and a monument placed on the mound. 

We were fortunate enough to get permission to see the palace 
and the castle. The Mikado is said to be the Son or King of 
Heaven. The palace is built after the same general pattern as the 
temples. We saw the place where he worshiped his ancestors and 
the place where he was worshiped. We saw the rooms where he 
lived and the rooms in which he studied and transacted business. 
He was regarded as a god and not as a man. He never appeared in 
public. His subjects, except his wives and concubines and highest 
ministers, never saw his face. He sat on a mat on a throne behind 
a curtain. Messages were repeated to the women, and they 
repeated them to him. His feet were never allowed to touch the 
earth. When he went abroad in the city, he rode in a car closely 
curtained and drawn by bullocks. The people were taught that 
they would be smitten with blindness if they saw him. When he 
went out, the streets were deserted. The people went into their 
houses and closed the doors and windows. The greatest nobles 
threw themselves on the ground and allowed the royal cortege to 
pass by. Now the Emperor is a man. He is seen by the people. 
When he goes abroad the streets are thronged. Banners are 
everywhere. The cheers of the multitude are gratefully acknowl- 
edged. The castle is a far more splendid building than the palace. 
Here the Shogun held his court. Here the daimyos came to confer 
with their lord. I saw nothing in Nikko or in Tokyo so fine as this. 
It gives one some idea of the power and wealth and magnificence of 
the Shoguns, The moats have been filled; parts of the walls have 
been removed; but enough is left to show what this castle was 
before the Eestoration. 

More to us than temples, or palace,, or castle, is the Doshisha 
University. This institution is across from the palace. Prof. 
Albrecht showed us the buildings and some of the work. The 
Doshisha was founded by Neesima. The story of his life is stranger 
than fiction. A Japanese lad got hold of an Atlas of the United 



116 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

States. From this he got some knowledge of America. At once 
he wished to go to that country. He picked up a tract which gave 
a synopsis of the Bible. In this he read of God as a Creator. That 
was anew thought. He reasoned, "If God created me, he owns 
me." He so thirsted for knowledge that he often read till cock- 
crow. He managed to get a little English. He ran away from his 
master, got to Shanghai, and from Shanghai to Boston. Here 
Alpheus Hardy, a Boston merchant, took him as his own son. He 
sent him to Phillips Academy, then to Amherst, and then to And- 
over. While in the academy, he confessed his faith in Christ. 
While he was in Andover, the second Japanese embassy visited 
America. He was asked to serve the embassy as an interpreter. 
He did so. He visited all the capitals of Europe as well as the 
principal cities of America. He made a special study of the systems 
of education. After he left the Seminary, he wanted the American 
Board to establish a Christian school in Japan. He did not get 
much encouragement. At the annual meeting held in Rutland, he 
was allowed to make a plea for funds for this school. He spoke 
with a broken voice and tears. At that meeting $5,000 was 
pledged. That was the nucleus of the Doshisha. He was urged to 
open the school in Kyoto. He thought that center and citadel of 
Buddhism was the last place in Japan for a Christian school. He 
was told that he might as well try to fly to the moon as to put up 
buildings; it would not be allowed. After much thought and 
prayer, the school was opened in a few dingy rooms of an old man- 
sion. There were two teachers and eight students. There was no 
course of study. The appliances were of the rudest character. 
When he sought permission to teach Christianity, he was told to 
teach it under the head of moral science. The priests and magis- 
trates were up in arms. They were determined to crush the school. 
Neesima's connection with the Japanese embassy years before gave 
him friends at court. These friends never deserted him or turned 
a deaf ear to his appeals. He did what no foreigner could have 
done. He bought land and began to put up buildings. There are 
now five buildings on the grounds and eleven dormitories not far 
away. J. N. Harris, of Connecticut, gave $100,000 to found a 
School of Science. Mrs. B. W. Clarke, of Brooklyn, gave $10,000 
in memory of her son, to build a Theological Hall. A cabinet min- 
ister invited some rich friends to dinner. He spoke to them about 
this school and its needs. These men raised $30,000 in silver for a 
school of Law and Economics. The whole number of students 
enrolled from the first is 3,358; the whole number of graduates, 296- 



FROM TOKYO TO KOBE 117 

Of the graduates 106 are preaching. Of the graduates seventy per 
cent, are Christians. No other school in Japan has produced so 
man} 7 Christian workers along so many lines. The Doshisha is 
spoken of as the center of religious life and thought in the Empire. 
In connection with it are the Girls' School, a Hospital and a Train- 
ing School for nurses. In the Doshisha there are thirty-five Japa- 
nese and eight foreign teachers. We visited Dr. Albrecht and Dr. 
M. L. Gordon in their homes and broke bread with them. Dr. 
Gordon told us an amusing incident. Talking once with a noble- 
man who had visited Japan, he asked him how he was impressed 
with the country. He replied that he thought the " billiard tables 
of Yokohama were better than those in Tokyo." That was all. 
"We called to see President Kozaki. He is a Japanese and lives in 
Japanese style. We found him a genial gentleman, ready to give 
us any information needed. He told us that the Japanese are a 
religious people. There can be no doubt of this. There are 72,000 
Buddhist temples and 56,500 Shinto shrines in the country. Dr. 
Gordon took us to Neesima's grave on a hill overlooking the city. 
We felt that we were on holy ground. An unhewn block of stone 
marks his grave. He wished no other monument. The Doshisha 
will perpetuate his name better than any monument of bronze or 
marble. His purpose was not merely to give instruction in English 
and other branches of learning, but to impart higher moral and 
spiritual principles, and to train up, not only men of science and 
learning, but men of conscientiousness and sincerity. He believed 
that a nation needs manners, but it needs morals more. He 
believed that pure morality must be based on Christianity. Near by 
is the grave of Lieut. George C. Foulk. He was born in Pennsyl- 
vania and educated at Annapolis. He resigned from the United 
States Navy, where he had won a reputation for brilliant scholar- 
ship, and returning to Japan from Korea, where he rendered his 
country important service, he became a most valued member of the 
Doshisha faculty and an enthusiastic evangelistic worker. The 
students placed a slab over his grave with this inscription, "The 
zeal of thine house hath eaten me up." This sentence fitly por- 
trayed his life. As we leftTthe cemetery full of thoughts concern- 
ing Neesima and his work, I remembered one of his sentences, 
*' Advance on your knees." 

Leaving Kyoto we came to Osaka. This city is the Chicago of 
Japan. It is the commercial center of the nation. We climbed to 
the top of a pagoda and saw the whole city and the country adja- 
cent. After visiting a few temples Ave called at the penitentiary. 



118 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

There are 3,000 convicts in this prison. Some are lads; some are 
in the prime of life; some are old and gray. It was a sad sight. 
We saw them fed. For supper they had a ball of cold rice and 
wheat, and a cup of hot water. We ran out from Osaka to Nara. 
This place was the capital of Japan for eight years. In one temple 
there is an image of Buddha larger than the one in Kamakura. In a 
Shinto temple we saw two dancing girls. The priest sang some- 
thing like a dirge, and the girls made some movements and called 
them a dance. In a village on the way is the oldest existing Bud- 
dhist temple in Japan. It was built in the sixth century. There are 
pictures in it said to be thirteen hundred years old. One curious 
thing was shown us, namely, the left eye of the Buddha. Our next 
stop was made at Kobe. This is an open port, and is much like 
Yokohama. We visited the Girls' School of the American Board. 
The buildings are well adapted to the needs of the work. In Kobe 
we met, among others, a member of the celebrated Gulick family. 
Six brothers and one sister gave their lives to the work of missions. 
Their parents were missionaries in the Hawaiian Islands. Two 
members of the third generation are already in the field. 



XVIII. 
FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI. 

At Kobe we took passage on the Empress of China for 
Shanghai. The Empress is a fine ship. Her officers are courteous 
to all. This line is becoming deservedly popular. It follows the 
short route from America to Japan and China. I have never been 
on another ship where all the passengers seemed so comfortable 
and happy. There were between forty and fifty missionaries on 
board. Some one said that this was the largest number of work- 
ers that ever reached China on one ship. Some had been home on 
furlough and were returning. They were eager to reach the field 
and enter upon the work. Among these were Mr. and Mrs. Saw, 
of Nankin. It was a great joy to meet them. About half the num- 
ber are coming out for the first time. A glance shows that they 
are above the average in ability and scholarship. An acquaintance 
deepens the impression. The societies select men and women with 
great care. 

Among the veterans, Dr. William Ashmore is easily the Nestor. 
He has been on the field forty-five years. Long before Japan 
admitted any Christian workers, he was in the Flowery Kingdom. 
He has seen the number of Christians in China increase from three 
hundred and fifty to fifty thousand. His home is in Swatow. 
This city is the center of operations reaching many miles into the 
interior. Dr. Ashmore is a fine specimen of physical manhood. 
His head and face and voice reminded me of the gifted and 
lamented Isaac Errett. He is a large man in every way. In a busy 
career he has kept abreast of the best scholarship of the age. On 
one point he differs from many of his brethren. He believes that 
the work of missionaries is that of preaching the Gospel. He 
thinks that the medical work is a good thing in opening a district, 
but that, like the miraculous gift of healing in the early church, 
its value is temporary. He would use schools to train helpers and 
evangelists only. In his opinion, medical work and educational 
work are good things, but these are not the works a missionary 
should engage in. Dr. Ashmore said he knew he was regarded as 
heterodox on these points, but he is satisfied that he is right. Dr. 

119 



120 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

McGregor was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. He has been in Ainoy, 
China, thirty-one years. He is yet young and strong. He has seen 
great things; he expects to see still greater. When he reached the 
field in 1864, there were one hundred believers in that district. 
There are three thousand now. There are nineteen self-supporting 
churches. The Gospel is preached at seventy stations. He told 
me of a young student who [had heard the Gospel from a barber. 
When his father learned that he attended church he was greatly 
concerned. He followed him and dragged him out and beat him. 
He drove him out of his house. He felt that his son's prospects 
would be ruined if he became a Christian. The son confessed his 
faith in Christ, was educated for the ministry, and is now the pas- 
tor of a self-supporting church. Dr. Barclay has been in For- 
mosa twenty-one years. He has lived in the southern part. His 
report is encouraging. He believes that the war will help Formosa. 
The country will be advertised, and people and workers will flock 
thither. He showed us a curious document. It is a passport issued 
by the Republic of Formosa. It runs thus: "This is to certify 
that the Formosa Republic grants protection to Thomas Barclay, of 
Great England, and calls upon all officials, gentry, soldiers and peo- 
ple to carry it out. Those who refuse will be prosecuted." A 
republic in the Orient! This shows how far American ideas have 
been spread. In Brazil, in Central America, in France, in Hawaii, 
and in distant Formosa, the influence of Otis and Adams and 
Hancock and Washington and Jefferson is felt. The day for abso- 
lutism is about over. Dr. Swan is from the great hospital in 
Canton. He is the associate of the distinguished Dr. Kerr. These 
two physicians and their assistants treat fifteen hundred in-patients 
and twenty-five thousand out-patients a year. They preach to all 
who seek relief. They follow up their patients and seek to win 
them to Christ. As an evangelistic agency this hospital is said to 
be invaluable. Dr. Main, of Hangchow, has one of the largest 
hospitals in China. He does not agree with Dr. Ashmore as to 
the place of medical work in a mission. He regards the medical 
department as most fruitful in leading souls into the kingdom. He 
can lay his hands on scores of converts that have been won through 
the hospital. Among the young men was D. Willard Lyon. He 
spent a year among the colleges of America in the interest of the 
Volunteer Movement. His father is a missionary in China. He 
was born on a boat between Shanghai and Ningpo. Mr. Lyon and 
wife are on their way to Peking, where they expect to live and 
labor for the furtherance of the Gospel. 



FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI 121 

Mr. Loomis, of the Bible Societies in Yokohama, is on board, 
and gave an account of the work among the soldiers. If any one 
had told him before the war began that the highest officials in 
Japan would consent to the distribution of the Scriptures, as they 
have done, he would have said, "If the Lord were to open the 
windows of heaven, might this thing be?" He was accorded the 
privilege of giving copies of the New Testament or of the Gospel 
to the soldiers in the army, to the sailors of the navy, and to the 
wounded in the hospitals and to the prisoners of war. The prince 
in command of the Imperial Guard was very glad to allow him to 
give a Gospel to each of his men. That prince is now Commander- 
in-Chief of the army. He was permitted to visit the Naval Acad- 
emy and to give a portion of the Word of God to every cadet. 
When the Empress visited the hospital, the head surgeon called her 
attention to the work done by the missionaries, and spoke of it as 
one of the most valuable things done for the country. In Tokyo, 
Mr. Loomis. held a service for the Chinese prisoners. There were 
one hundred and sixty present. They were very eager to hear. A 
Japanese officer reported that a Buddhist priest came to the prison. 
The prisoners told him that they were Christians, and did not want 
him. There were two thousand five hundred New Testaments, and 
one hundred and twenty thousand Gospels distributed. Prior to 1873 
it was a capital crime to sell an English Bible. . The change since 
then has been marvelous. It is the Lord's doing. The speaker 
was deeply moved. He is a man of prayer — a man of God. He 
was surprised at the ease with which doors were opened. God 
gave him favor in the sight of the officials. He said he felt as 
Moses did when the Lord hid him in the cleft of the rock while his 
glory passed by. Mr. Loomis is on his way to Korea in the inter- 
est of this work. 

Among the passengers is the celebrated traveler and author, 
Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop. She is not a missionary, but is deeply 
interested in missionaries. She was born in England. Her hus- 
band was a Professor in the University of Edinburgh. She has 
made that city her home for thirty years. Her health has never 
been good. Much of hef writing has been done in bed. She has 
traveled all over the world. Her books were written in the form 
of letters to a sister. In Japan she lived once for six months on 
rice and eggs. She makes it a rule to carry no food and no books 
She carries a bed and a chair and a blanket or two and some cloth- 
ing and a camera, and almost nothing else. She gets a servant who 
can serve her as an interpreter; she has no other escort. Not long 



122 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

ago she was in the interior of China. She was taking a picture 
when some men saw her. They began to cry out, "Here is a for- 
eign devil; kill her, kill her!" She finished her work, took her 
camera and returned to the boat. Her life was in peril, but she did 
not think so at the time. She is now on her way to Korea, to 
finish a journey which was interrupted by the war. Mrs. Bishop is a 
friend of missionaries. She knows them and their work. Once 
she avoided them. At that time she had no confidence in them. 
She believed the evil reports that are heard in certain circles. In 
the providence of God her eyes were opened. She is impressed 
with the great need of missionaries. The world is dark and needs 
the Gospel. She has borne eloquent testimony on this point. 
She has described the sufferings of women and children in non- 
Christian lands. Her interest centers in medical missions. She is 
now making a journey in the hope of being able to assist this work. 

No one can be with such a company without feeling that they 
are diligent students of the Scriptures. At the daily meetings for 
conference every one had his Bible. The book showed that it was 
read and studied. Not only so, but they are men of prayer. They 
live near God, and they delight to talk with him. Moreover, they 
are full of joy. Their faces shine. It would not be easy to find 
another group of the same number with so many happy counte- 
nances in it. They have heard the call of God and obeyed it, and he 
has blessed them with his wondrous grace. Once more, they have 
perfect confidence in the triumph of the Gospel. The reports of 
riots and massacres do not disturb their serene confidence. They 
are without a doubt as to the final issue. The Mandarins may 
oppose; worldly-minded people may sneer; the Lord God omnip- 
otent reigns, and the whole earth shall be filled with his glory. 
There are medical men on board who have left a lucrative practice 
to serve the Lord in China. There is no one in the group who 
could not get a larger stipend at home than he will get on the 
field. At the present time a riot may occur anywhere. No mis- 
sionary is safe. Those who are seeking pleasant berths are not 
coming to China. The workers are ready to glorify Christ by living 
or by dying for him. 

Our course for part of the way was through the Inland Sea, 
This is the short route from Kobe to Nagasaki. There is no more 
beautiful scenery in the world than in and about this sea. The 
waters are studded with fishing boats and trading junks. The 
shores are lined with villages. These have a background of moun- 
tains. The Inland Sea resembles the St. Lawrence with its 



FROM KOBE TO SHANGHAI 123 

Thousand Islands. One place of interest passed was Shimonoseki. 
This is the place where Li Hung Chang was shot, and where the 
treaty of peace was drawn up and signed. We entered Nagasaki 
Bay after daybreak. The Bay is narrow and about three miles long. 
The harbor is thoroughly sheltered, and affords anchorage for 
ships of all classes. The entrance is not more than one-fourth of a 
mile wide. Here are war ships representing all nations. Officers 
in gold lace are seen in every direction. Nagasaki is historic 
ground. Here it was that the Portuguese merchants and missiona- 
ries landed. Here it was that the Japanese became acquainted 
with Europeans, and Christianity, and firearms, and other things 
unknown to Chinese civilization. Here Christianity was extir- 
pated. Here the Dutch had their factory, and here all business 
with the outside world was carried on for many years. In the Bay 
there is a rock called Pappenburg. From this rock Christians were 
thrown, it is said, because they would not deny their Lord. As we 
walked the streets of the city we thought of the time when the citi- 
zens were required to trample on the cross to convince the inquis- 
itor that they were not Christians. As we saw the homes of men 
representing Christian nations and the mission schools and the 
churches, we thought of the folly of fighting against the Most High. 
At Nagasaki we coaled. This was an interesting performance. 
The ship was anchored out in the Bay. Small boats loaded with 
coal came out. Ladders were placed against the side of the 
Empress. Men and women formed a line and passed up the coal in 
baskets. There were several sets working at the same time. In a 
few hours the work was done. It seemed strange to see women in 
such a place, but they want to earn a living. We left Nagasaki in 
the afternoon, passed the frowning batteries that guard the harbor, 
and soon were out on the Sea of China. We stood on deck as long 
as there was any land in sight. Japan is a beautiful country. The 
Japanese are a great people. Their victories in war are great; 
their victories of peace are still greater, (rod has a high mission 
for this nation. It seems to me that Japan is to be the leader of all 
the peoples of the East. In order to fulfill this mission she must 
have the Gospel. The heart and institutions of the nation must be 
Christianized. What is done for her evangelization must be done 
quickly. This is the nick of time. Thirty hours from Nagasaki we 
cast anchor in the mouth of the mighty Yangtsze. The next morn- 
ing we took a tug and went up the Whangpoo River to Shanghai. 
As the tug came near the dock I caught sight of the pleasant face 
of James Ware, who came down to welcome me to China, and to 
take me to his own home. 



XIX. 

A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI. 

Shanghai is the chief port of China, and has a population of 
400,000. The foreign port resembles a European city. It has all 
the modern improvements, except street-cars. The Chinese city 
proper is walled, and is one of the nastiest places in the Empire. 
Contact with foreigners has led to no improvement. This is another 
illustration of the truth that it is only as people are renewed in heart 
and spirit that they are ready to adopt the institutions which are 
the fruit of the Gospel. The old city was offered good water. 
They said the water offered had neither taste nor smell; the water 
in the moat has both. The people wash their clothes and food and 
their persons in it, and then use it for cooking and drinking. In 
another city pipes were put in and water supplied free. The peo- 
ple preferred water that had some body to it. They neglected the 
pipes, and the good intentions of the foreigners availed nothing. 
Those who allege that missionaries would do better work if they 
put in sewers and water pipes and teach the people something 
about sanitation, ought to take these and similar facts into account. 
The truth is that moral regeneration must come first. 

Shanghai is the center of much religious activity. As my time 
was short, James Ware had a program arranged in advance. It was 
his wish that I should see as much as possible. Our first call was 
at the headquarters of the China Inland Mission. The buildings 
are among the finest in the city. They are built about a large 
court. This property cost not less than $75,000. The money was 
given by one man. Not a dollar given for the work of the mission 
went into the grounds or buildings. Here are the offices and store- 
rooms of the mission, besides living-rooms and a chapel. All the 
workers in Shanghai live here and eat at a common table. Those 
on their way to or from the interior find here a home. The China 
Inland Mission has a remarkable history. It is now thirty years 
old. Dr. J. Hudson Taylor is its founder and principal manager. 
We had the pleasure of an interview with him. This mission is 
pan-denominational and international. It accepts workers from all 
evangelical bodies. There are Churchmen, Baptists, Methodists, 

124 



A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 125 

Presbyterians, and others on the field. To prevent friction, the 
representatives of each body are grouped in one province. They 
are allowed to preach and practice what they have been taught. 
There are workers from Great Britain and Ireland, Finland, Swe- 
den, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, the United States, 
Canada-, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. No salary is guar- 
anteed; they go out trusting the Lord to supply their needs. The 
mission does not borrow and does not go in debt. No personal 
solicitation is made or collection called for. The treasury is sup- 
plied by voluntary contributions. The work is managed by mis- 
sionary directors, assisted by a council- of experienced workers. 
There is one council in London, another in Toronto, another in 
Australia, and another in Scandinavia. These councils select 
workers and receive and forward money. The aim of the mission 
is to evangelize the whole Empire. At the present time sixteen out 
of the eighteen provinces are occupied. There are seven hundred 
men and women at work. Forty per cent of these are either self- 
supporting or are supported by friends. The increase in the num- 
ber of workers has been wonderful. At one time eighteen were 
sent out. In two years seventy-six were added. In one year the 
reinforcements numbered one hundred. The extra offerings of 
that year aggregated $50,000. Dr. Taylor does not believe in "the 
gun-boat policy." If property is destroyed, no indemnity is 
sought. The mission takes joyfully the spoiling of its goods. The 
workers believe that if they do well and suffer for it, and take it 
patiently, that is acceptable with God. Some of the workers 
are now in the city besieged by the Mohammedans. Their friends 
do not know their condition, but prayer is made continually on 
their behalf. They believe that they will be preserved, or that 
grace will be given to bear whatever may come. Dr. Taylor is a 
man of child-like trust in God. He is a man of mark. All the 
workers in the mission partake of his spirit. 

Our next call was on Dr. Ernest Faber. He is a German of 
solid merit and great attainments. He is one of the first men in 
China. Dr. Faber has been in this country thirty-one years. For 
twelve years he was an evangelist in and about Canton. His voice 
having failed, he gave his life to literature. He has written some 
thirty volumes. These are in Chinese, in German, and in English. 
His scientific works have been approved by the government. He 
has written on schools in the West. He used to be asked, "Have 
you any schools in your country? " He wrote to answer that ques- 
tion. In all his works he has kept steadily in mind the conversion 



126 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

of China. He told us of a man in Japan who wrote a book 
entitled, "How I Became a Christian." He had been a Confucian- 
ist. His son presented him with one of Dr. Faber's volumes. He 
was bigoted, and threw it aside unread. His son presented him 
with another volume. He read it, and was led to accept Christ as 
his Savior and Lord. Dr. Faber spoke of the prejudice against for- 
eigners. The people are led to believe that they take out the eyes, 
and brains, and hearts, and livers of the Chinese, and make medi- 
cine of them. It is this medicine that makes the foreigners so wise 
and so strong. The native physicians see that their craft is in dan- 
ger. The triumph of the Gospel means their overthrow. Dr. 
Faber has no doubt as to the issue of the conflict between Bud- 
dhism and Confucianism and Taoism and Christianity. 

Leaving Dr. Faber, we called on Dr. Joseph Edkins. The name 
of this distinguished scholar and author is a household word in the 
republic of letters. His studies have been in the field of Compara- 
tive Religion and Philology. He has written many books, and 
these have been widely read. In addition to his work in the Cus- 
toms and in the study, he preaches every week. He has been in 
China for nearly half a century. The country was opened only six 
years before his arrival. The changes since then are great. The 
thought of them fills the soul with gratitude and hope. There have 
been riots and massacres, but the good done is immense, and is 
worth all this suffering and loss of life, and more. Sacrifice is the 
condition of progress. The blood of the martyrs is the seed of the 
church. The conviction of all men I have met in China is that the 
riots are instigated by the officials. The people are kindly disposed 
and would make no trouble whatever, if their minds were not 
poisoned against the foreigners. They are told that these people 
can see three feet into the ground. They can discover and carry 
away the precious metals. Their aims and motives are represented 
as evil, and only evil. They want to overthrow the government 
and take the country. There may be more suffering than there has 
been ; officials may write books and send out circulars to inflame the 
minds of the populace, but the work is of God and cannot fail. 

We reached Shanghai on Saturday. Sunday was crowded with 
services. In the morning we met with the believers for the com- 
munion and for preaching. This was after the Sunday-school. 
There were three addresses in all. At the close of the service there 
was a sermon by Bishop Walden in the Union Church. In the 
afternoon there was a Bible class in Mr. Ware's study. Among 
those present was a girl without feet. When her feet were bound 



A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 127 

she cried so much that the people thought she had a devil and 
threw her out. It was cold and her feet were frozen. They 
dropped off in course of time. She is now a Christian. Miss Lyon 
expects to train her for a Bible woman. Dr. Butchart thinks a 
pair of wooden feet can be secured for about forty dollars. Per- 
haps some one will furnish this sum. Another had been thought 
a demoniac. She was found by one of our workers tied to a post. 
She was naked and raving. Under kind treatment she improved. 
She was prayed with and led to Christ. She is happily married 
and lives an exemplary life. After the Bible class, Mr. Ware ex- 
amined ten candidates for baptism. One -woman said, " I am deaf, 
very deaf; stupid, very stupid; but I believe in the Lord Jesus 
with all my heart." In the evening there was a second service in 
the Union Church. It was to the pastorate of this church that W. 
P. Bentley was once called, at a salary twice as great as he was re- 
ceiving. He did not entertain the call for a moment. All the 
workers of Shanghai attend this church. The services are at such 
hours as do not conflict with their own. The union sentiment is 
fostered by these meetings. We went from the Union Church "to 
the evangelistic service conducted by James Ware and Evangelist 
Ni. This was a strange but fascinating sight. Men and women 
and children came in. Some smoked all the while. They came 
and went, but the house was full. Some scoffed, others listened to 
the words that were spoken. The audience was different from that 
in the morning. Chinese Christians have bright and happy faces. 
Mrs. Ware says that women learn to read after their conversion so 
that they can take part in the services. Evangelist Ni has a fine 
head and face. He looks like a bald eagle. One feels on seeing 
him that he is worthy of one's love and trust. 

On Monday we visited the rooms of the American Bible Society. 
Dr. Hykes, the manager for China, showed us through the building 
and explained the work. Last year nearly 500,000 Scriptures, or 
portions thereof, were sold. Few are given away. People prize 
more highly that which costs something. The books are sold below 
cost so as to bring them within the reach of nearly all. The Bible 
is printed in the twenty-eight Chinese dialects. In different sec- 
tions of theEmpire the dialects are different. A Cantonese would not 
be easily understood in Peking. A Nankin man is not easily under- 
stood in Shanghai. Colporteurs go out and distribute the Word of 
Life. The missionaries on their tours do the same. Dr. Hykes is an 
aggressive man. There was a very marked increase in the sales 
last year; the sales for the current year are still larger. Near by is 



128 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the Presbyterian Press, the largest mission press in any field. This 
is one of the institutions of the East. It is known in all parts of 
the world. It was established in 1844. It cost $65,000. Never was 
there a wiser investment. It pays all expenses and more. It 
prints, binds, makes type, plates, and everything else that is done 
in a great establishment. One year it printed 30,000,000 pages. 
Every mission in China is helped by this Press. Not only so, but 
its work goes to all parts of the globe. The day we were there an 
order was received from the University of Berlin for a font of 
Chinese type. Mr. Fitch, the director, is an Ohio man, and a very 
clever gentleman. 

From the Press we went to a baptismal service. The candidates 
that Mr. Ware examined on Sunday were present. There were ten 
in all. An address was delivered by Mr. Ni explaining the meaning 
of the ordinance. With the exception of one woman seventy 
years of age, the candidates were young and strong. They will 
form a valuable addition to the church. At the close of this ser- 
vice we hastened to the monthly prayer-meeting in the Union 
Church. Here we met many missionaries and several other noted 
personages. Reports were given from different parts of the field. 
It was a season of refreshing from the presence of the Lord. The 
unhappy divisions of Christendom were forgotten. All present 
seemed to be members of one body. That night the Christians 
came to Mr. Ware's house and gave me a reception and an address. 
The sentiments are too flattering to be printed in English. Per- 
haps that is the reason they are in Chinese. They brought their 
refreshments with them. A stranger here soon gets acquainted and 
feels at home. He cannot fail to realize that he is among kindred 
in Christ. The warmth of their welcome is unmistakable. 

The next morning we visited the Anglo-Chinese College. We 
went early, that we might see the students in the chapel. This is 
the school of the M. E. Church, South. The teaching is in English 
and Chinese. The government takes the best students before they 
are graduated and places them in its technical and naval schools. 
It pays all their expenses and gives them a salary besides. Their 
knowledge of English and science makes them more valuable. 
The school has a very desirable property. The tuition fees pay all 
expenses, except the salaries of the foreign teachers. Some of the 
boys are Christians, but most of them are not. Many of them 
would unite with the church if their parents would give their con- 
sent. One mother threatened to commit suicide if her son con- 
fessed his faith in Christ. These boys are Christians in their con- 



A GLIMPSE OF SHANGHAI 129 

duct. They are friends of the work. On the way to the school 
and back we went through a large market. It was curious to see 
every buyer using his own scales. He cannot trust the seller to use 
just weights and a just balance. That morning we went out to St. 
John's College. This is the school of the Protestant Episcopal 
Church. There are in the boys' school one hundred and thirty-five 
students; in the girls' school sixty, and in the orphanage forty 
children. The school has a splendid property. It cost not less 
than $100,000. Prof. Cooper showed us the buildings and the 
grounds. There are no cleaner and neater rooms in China. We 
saw the boys eat their rice at noon. It w.as a sight worth seeing. 
St. Luke's Hospital belongs to the same society. Dr. Boone began 
with two beds. The property now used is worth $50,000. This 
was bought by the Chinese, and given to the mission in recognition 
of the value of such an institution. Dr. Boone told us of the in- 
fluence of the hospital. A member of the literary class living in 
Woosung was paralyzed by overwork. He was cross, cursed the 
children, and threw his crutch at them. He was the terror of the 
place. Dr. Boone was able to send him some medicine that healed 
him. His heart was full of gratitude, and he wanted to do some- 
thing. He opened a school and soon won the confidence and love 
of the boys. He would take no pay. His conversion deeply 
impressed many. They said if the Gospel can change such a brute 
into such a man it must be a good thing. 

The same day we visited Sicawei, the great Jesuit institution. 
There are two hundred orphans here. They are sent to school and 
taught trades. We were shown through the shops. We saw car- 
penters, printers, painters, tailors and shoemakers. These orphans 
are kept in charge till they are twenty-seven years old, lest they 
should go back to heathenism. In the nunnery is a school for 
girls. There is a seminary in which priests are trained. The 
Observatory furnishes Shanghai with the time and weather indica- 
tions. We saw the model of a new cathedral. This will cost 
$500,000. It will be built in time. The priests could not have been 
more obliging. They were pleased to see us and to give us any 
information asked for. They showed us through this vast estab- 
lishment. There are many other institutions in Shanghai that we 
did not see, on account of a lack of time. Mr. Ware drives furious- 
ly and accomplishes more than several ordinary men, but even he 
could not see all that is worth seeing in this great city in two and a 
half days. 
9 



130 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

One thing impresses a stranger out here, namely, the extreme 
cordiality of every one. I took a score of introductory letters with 
me. Dr. Ashmore told me I would not need them. He was right. 
I have not shown one. It is sufficient that one is interested in the 
work. Catholics and Protestants of all schools, and men who have 
no direct connection with missionary work, take delight in showing 
one every possible courtesy. Buddhist and Confucianist have 
invited me to eat and drink with them. With Tiny Tim I say, 
*' God bless them, every one." 



XX. 

FEOM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN. 

Mr. Ware arranged that we should call on the way at several 
out-stations in his district. This made it needful for us to go partly 
by water and partly by land. The first place which we wished to 
visit is Tsungming. This is a large island in the mouth of the 
Yangtsze, with a population of a million. We left Shanghai in the 
"Love," the boat which the English Sunday-schools, under the 
leadership of Mr. J. Coop, gave the mission. James Ware was 
captain, Dr. Butchart was surgeon, and I was the passenger. The 
wind was straight ahead and blowing so hard, that with all our 
efforts we made only seven miles in ten hours. We ran into a creek 
known as the Exalted Bridge Creek for the night. As the sun was 
setting we took a walk into the country. We saw graves in all 
directions. In one field I counted one hundred and fifty. Some 
coffins are uncovered. Others are enclosed in brick vaults, or have 
mounds of earth built over them. Half the field is thus occupied. 
The time and place of burial are fixed by luck-doctors. They get 
the date of birth and marriage and death of the deceased, examine 
carefully the contour of the country, the hills, valleys, canals, and 
water courses, and then consult their books and diagrams and work 
out the grand result. They fix the exact spot and the precise angle 
in which the coffin is to lie. It may take weeks or years to do this. 
The luck-doctors make a good living at this business. If any good 
befalls the family it is because the right man was selected to locate 
the coffin. China is one vast graveyard. You see graves along the 
roads and canals, near the temples, within and without the city 
walls, on every farm. One is never out of sight of these eloquent 
reminders of our mortality. 

The next morning we weighed anchor and started. We had to 
stop at Woosung for the tide to turn. This place is at the junction 
of the Whangpoo and Yangtsze. We called at the chapel of the 
London Missionary Society. Here we met a man who had been a 
fortune-teller and an opium smoker. He gave up both, burned his 
books of magic, and is now a helper in the mission. We entered 
an opium den and saw a Buddhist monk enjoying his pipe. He was 

131 



132 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

a dirty, ragged fellow. We tried to persuade him to abandon this 
evil and hurtful practice, but our words fell on deaf ears. Opium 
is the curse of China. Wherever we have been we have found its 
victims. We are asked every day for medicine to break the habit. 
The sad thing about it is, that it was forced on China by Christian 
England. When the Emperor was urged to legalize the trade and 
make it a source of revenue, he replied that he could not use as a 
revenue that which brought suffering and misery upon his people. 
As soon as the tide turned we tried again to make Tsungming, but 
failed. At dark we put into another creek and waited for the wind 
to change. At midnight Captain Ware started again, and at day- 
break we were at the land. If the "Love" had an engine she 
would make this trip in six or seven hours. Instead, it took two 
whole days. An engine can be put in for one hundred dollars. 
Perhaps some good friend will write a check for this sum. In that 
case one can go to Tsungming and preach and return the same day. 
Now it takes the best part of a week. This accounts for the fact 
that, though this island is only forty miles distant from Shanghai, 
no Gospel work has been done on it before. 

After breakfast we entered the city. We found Evangelist Ku. 
in the chapel. He is a fine fellow. He is young and has not had 
much experience. He spends two days each month in Shanghai 
with Mr. Ware. There are services every day in the chapel. There 
is a reading-room open to all. So far as known there have been no 
conversions at this place, though there are some inquirers. It is 
difficult to trace the influence and to tabulate results. One man 
preached in Chefoo for years and saw no fruit. Afterwards he 
learned that four hundred were won in these seemingly unfruitful 
years. The promise is, "You shall reap if you faint not." One 
sows and another reaps. The time will come when the sower and 
reaper shall rejoice together. Love never fails. Like all Chinese 
cities, Tsungming is a filthy place. The streets are narrow and full 
of people. The houses are open summer and winter. The cook- 
ing and eating are in view of all who pass by. There is no privacy 
and no delicacy. The gutters are rank and smell to heaven. 
Stagnant ponds, covered with green scuni, breed malaria and pesti- 
lence. The wonder is that people live at all. But they do. Chil- 
dren are remarkably healthy. I have seen but one puny child, and 
that was in a hospital. Doubtless many die, and only the fittest 
survive. We spent two hours in the chapel, and then continued 
our journey. In the evening we reached and crossed the river. It 
was late when we found our hotel. In ten minutes the place was 



FROM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN 133 

full. Men and women and children came in and watched us. 
They felt and commented on our coats, shoes, collars, ties, eyes and 
hair. You cannot lock the people out and eat and drink and rest 
in peace. An attempt of that sort would be resented. The doors 
would be broken down in an instant. The Chinese reason that 
they have a right to know what a stranger is doing. If he wishes 
concealment it is because he is planning mischief. Workers open 
everything to those who wish to see. A Chinese crowd is not 
always attractive, according to our notions. One man took our tea 
kettle, and putting the spout in his mouth, slaked his thirst. The 
noses of the boys are not always nice. If by pre-arrangement with 
one's ancestors, one has a stomach that is not easily upset, one will 
find it more precious than rubies. My bed was on a box. The 
others had rough bedsteads. We had our own bedding. This is 
the universal custom here. Coolies, travelers, friends visiting 
friends, rich and poor, all carry their own bedding. People were 
coming and going all night, but they did not molest us. " China's 
millions " gave us a wide berth. We slept very well. For supper 
and lodging we paid about seven cents each. 

As soon as it was light we started. We made ten miles before 
breakfast. Though we were off so early hundreds were out to see 
us. Our coming was an event in their lives. It was like a circus at 
home. We were the first foreigners many of them had ever seen. 
We traveled all day in wheel-barrows. There are no railways and 
no stage coaches or carts in this part of the Empire. The wheel- 
barrow is the sole method of transportation. Thirty miles is a 
day's journey. A wheelbarrow in China has as little romance and 
comfort as one at home. It could be made fairly comfortable, but 
that would not be Chinese. Any change would show disrespect to 
Confucius. At the close of the first day one feels pretty sore. 
The roads are narrow and poor; China has the worst roads in the 
world. It is only by courtesy that they can be called roads. They 
are like Indian trails. Men must walk in single file. The bridges 
are about two feet wide. Culverts are often not six, inches. A 
single stone, or a piece of wood flattened on one side, answers the 
purpose. No cart or horse could go over the roads and bridges in 
this part of China. The coolies are great, strong fellows. One 
wheeled two men over thirty miles in a day, and seemed as fresh at 
the end as at the beginning. They go faster with a load than we 
could without. I never looked at them without admiration. Give 
these beasts of burden the Gospel and a good education, and they 
will be worthy to stand before kings. 



134 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

At every village the people flocked out to see us. Women 
tottered out on their small feet. A thousand would gather in the 
twinkling of an eye. They were curious, but civil. We heard the 
words "foreign devil" once or twice, but they came from small 
boys. The men gathered about us and felt us, but they said noth- 
ing disrespectful. No sooner did we stop than Mr. Ware began to 
speak. He illustrated Christ's method, "As you go, preach." He 
talks like a native and secures the attention of all. Mr. Ku was by 
his side with copies of the Scripture in his hand. He took a large 
package from Tsungming. Long before reaching the last station 
every copy was sold. We would wait ten or fifteen minutes at a 
place. The coolies would get their breath and smoke a pipe or eat 
a bowl of rice. Then we hastened on. Sometimes we entered a 
tea-house. This is a Chinese institution. It answers to our saloon. 
For a cent or. half a cent we can have a cup of tea. There are 
tables and benches and one can sit and rest. The floor is of dirt or 
brick. Pigs and dogs and chickens act as scavengers. Birds build 
their nests in the roof. People come here to gamble, to transact 
business, to hear or tell some new thing, or to eat and drink. Ped- 
dlers come in and sell cakes, peanuts, sweet potatoes, melon seed, 
candies, and smoke. A man has a pipe with a long handle and one 
can have a smoke for a cash. No sooner were we seated than the 
people gathered and the conversation began. It does not take an 
expert long to introduce spiritual topics. James Ware is a prince 
for this kind of work. He has an answer for every question. He 
keeps the crowd in good humor. Nothing ever ruffles his spirit. 
If the wind is ahead, he is sure it will soon change. If it rains, he 
is thankful it does not snow. If fleas abound, he is happy in the 
thought that they are not bed-bugs. It is a picnic to travel with 
such a jolly genius. 

We were traveling in one of the best parts of China. The land 
is as fertile as in Central Illinois. Farmers raise two crops a year. 
And yet they are poor. Their houses are built for the most part of 
mud and thatch. There are no barns. Plowing and harrowing are 
done with the water buffalo. We did not see a horse all day. The 
people are industrious and economical. Nothing is allowed to go 
to waste. The grass along the roads and on the mountains and on 
the commons is cut for fuel. Living cheaply is reduced to a 
science. The Chinese do not drink milk or eat beef. Their lakes 
and rivers abound in fish. We saw men catching them in all sorts 
of ways. The most curious method we saw was by the use of cor- 
morants. These birds are trained to dive and swim so swiftly that 



FROM SHANGHAI TO NANKIN 135 

no fish can easily escape them. The owner places a collar around 
the neck of the bird to prevent it swallowing any large fish. He 
can tell by its weight whether it has taken anything or not. The 
birds are rewarded with a part of what they have caught, or are fed 
with other food. These fish, either fresh or salted, are used with 
the rice, the great article of food among the Chinese. 

We reached Tung Chau a little after dark. This place is thirty- 
three miles from the place where we slept the night previous. 
Tung Chau is a walled city, and has a population of about 75,000. 
We went to the chapel and book-room and saw the evangelist in 
charge. We had been hearing of this work most of the day. At 
nearly every place we stopped we met with some one who had heard 
the Gospel or who had been treated in some mission dispensary or 
hospital. We rested for an hour or two in the chapel, and had 
supper. Mr. Ware and Mr. Ku remained there to preach for a day 
or two and then return home. Dr. Butchart and I left for the river. 
This was seven miles distant. We heard afterward that the mag- 
istrate, fearing that we might be attacked, sent a secret guard 
along to protect us. This may or may not be true. We reached 
our inn about midnight. We slept well and were ready for the 
boat the next morning. That night I saw the watchmen making 
their rounds. One was beating a drum; one carried a gun; the third 
carried a light. The drum and the light would warn the burglars 
in time to get safely out of the way. This performance resembles 
that of hunting with a brass band. 

No missionary confines his labors to one spot. He has his 
center where he carries on a work. From this center he goes out 
into the adjacent country. This was Christ's method. He did not 
build a cathedral in Nazareth or Jerusalem, and say, "Let the 
people come to me." He went about in all Galilee, and Persea, 
and Samaria, and Judsea. Once the people wanted to tie him down 
in their midst. He said, " I must preach the good tidings of the 
kingdom of God to the other cities also; for therefore I was sent." 
These tours break down prejudice and disarm fear. The natives 
see that the foreigner has not horns and hoofs, and does not go 
about like a dragon spitting out fire and death. All sorts of 
rumors are circulated. All sorts of notions are prevalent. For- 
eigners are believed to be spies or secret enemies. They have 
some evil work in view. At first the sick will not take medicine 
from them. They are afraid that there is some charm in the for- 
eign remedy^ They are told that the foreigners can give a pill that 
will make them become Christians. He can give another pill that 



136 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

will make them go to church every Sunday, whether it rains or 
shines. A pill answering to that description would be a priceless 
boon in America, and would sell like hot cakes. The people see 
the missionaries. They are unarmed. They are peaceful. They 
do good and not evil. They sleep in their houses and put their 
lives in their power. They see that they are men like themselves, 
bone of their bone and flesh of their flesh, and their fears and 
prejudices take wings and fly away. This work must be done 
before China can be Christianized. 

We took passage on the good ship Sual for Nankin. Captain 
Scott is a Christian man and a friend of missionaries and their 
work. He did everything in his power for our comfort. There are 
men in the East, as in the West, who sneer at missionaries. I 
have found two classes that have confidence in them. They are 
the bankers and the ship-owners. With these classes the mission- 
aries have almost unlimited credit. That speaks volumes for 
them, and outweighs all vulgar and carnal sneers. The next 
morning we were in Nankin. I went ashore, thankful for the 
insight into missionary work which I had gained, and for such 
pleasant companionship. In the Mission Compound we had a 
royal welcome. 




1. Mrs. F. E. Meigs. 3. Frank Garrett. 2. Mrs. Frank Garrett. 

4. Miss Mary Kelly. 5. Mrs. E. P. Hearnden. 

NANKIN, CHINA. 



XXI. 

NANKIN AND ROUND ABOUT. 

Nankin is two hundred miles from Shanghai. It was once the 
capital of China, and may be again. We had hardly reached the 
place before the work of sight-seeing began. The first thing on 
the list was Dr. Macklin's clinic at the South Gate. Mr. Williams 
and Mr. Saw volunteered to go with me. We got donkeys and 
started. No carriage could make its way through such narrow 
and crowded streets. The Viceroy has built a wide road from one 
side of the city to the other. Horses and carriages are seen on it, 
but nowhere else. A boy goes with each donkey to twist his tail 
to make him go, to make the appropriate remarks when things go 
wrong, and to clear the way when it is blocked. The sights and 
smells soon convince one that he is in a heathen city. Though there 
are half a million souls within the walls of Nankin, there are no 
sewers and no sanitary provisions whatever. Large ponds are cov- 
ered with green scum. Gutters are filled with garbage and filth. 
Coffins and graves are everywhere in sight. Houses are plastered 
with charms to keep away evil spirits and disease. In times of pes- 
tilence the streets are lined with idols and altars. Cleanliness 
would do more to prevent the plagues than all the prayers and 
offerings. 

We found Dr. Macklin preparing an address and the dispensary 
full of people. The building is imperial property. It is an admir- 
able place for the purpose. It is in one of the busiest parts of the 
city. Tens of thousands pass by every day in the year. The build- 
ing is large and well arranged for a chapel and dispensary. There 
is a room in the front that will hold two hundred people or more. 
The medical work is done in rooms at the rear. Before seeing any 
cases, Dr. Macklin preaches to the people. The medical work is 
auxiliary to the evangelistic. Christ meets all the needs of human- 
ity. He has healing for the body, truth for the mind, and redemp- 
tion for the soul. He asked me to speak a few words, which he 
interpreted. While he was seeing the sick, Mr. Williams and Mr. 
Saw made brief addresses. The patients were suffering from all 
kinds of diseases. There were in the group victims of dropsv, epi- 

137 



138 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

lepsy, syphilis, rheumatism, itch, ague, running sores, enlarged 
spleen, hip disease, consumption, varicose veins, leprosy. Some of 
these answered to the prophet's description, "From the crown of 
the head to the sole of the foot there was no soundness, but wounds 
and bruises and putrefying sores." The scene reminded me of the 
saying about the Christ, "And they brought unto him all that were 
sick, holden with divers diseases and torments, possessed with 
demons, and epileptic and palsied; and he healed them." Only the 
worst cases come to the foreign doctor. The Chinese prefer their 
own physicians in trivial cases. The clinic averages about eighty. 
With his two trained assistants, the Doctor gets through in two 
hours. Each patient gets a tract or a Gospel. After the clinic we 
had luncheon, and then we went to a tea-house and had some more 
Gospel talk. At another time I attended a clinic in the dispensary 
connected with the Memorial Hospital. There was first the preach- 
ing and then the healing. It was interesting to watch the people. 
One woman tried to kiss the Doctor's feet. She felt as the woman 
did who said to another medical missionary, " Och, docktar darlint, 
may ivery hair of yere head be a candle to light ye to glory." Some 
of these patients come from places a hundred miles distant. In 
touring, the workers nearly always find men who have been helped 
in Nankin. These men are always friends. Mr. Hunt was accused 
by some soldiers of being a Japanese and a spy. His life was in 
peril. The captain recognized him and let him go. This man had 
been treated in the hospital. Though they are in daily contact with 
these diseases the physicians are not attacked. The promise is 
verified, "A thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy 
right hand, but it shall not come nigh thee." They are better fed 
and observe the laws of health, and hence resist disease as the 
natives in their poverty and dirt can not. The Doctor showed me 
through the hospital. It is a noble building, one of the best in 
Nankin. In the reception room are pictures of O. A. Burgess, A. 
M. Atkinson, J. M. Trible, and Joseph King. When this work 
began the neighbors were angry and disposed to drive the Doctor 
away. When the hospital was built they made a feast, and hung up 
congratulatory scrolls, and made an offering of one hundred dollars. 
The boys in the school and the teachers heard of my coming, and 
wished to welcome me in their own way. They prepared a beautiful 
silk scroll and wrote on it an inscription far too complimentary to 
be exact. They presented the scroll, and one of the number made 
an address. One part of the ceremony was the explosion of a 
thousand fire-crackers. Afterwards I visited the school and saw its 



NANKIN AND BOUND ABOUT 139 

workings. Prof. Meigs has three assistants. The Bible is taught 
every day. The exercises begin with praise and praj'er. The boys 
are taught the classics, mathematics, geography, history, and sci- 
ence. Every truth of science or history helps to cut the roots 
of superstition and prejudice. Chinese maps give almost all the 
globe to China. Other nations are insignificant in size and are vas- 
sals and pay tribute. A map showing the relative size of China and 
giving facts as to the size, population, resources, and form of gov- 
ernment of other nations, opens the eyes of the Chinese. In the 
native schools the Chinese characters and classics are taught, and 
nothing else. Graduates ask, Are Japan "and England neighbors? 
In what province is England? Is the Queen coming to worship the 
Emperor? Does the sun shine in your country? Do you till the 
soil? Do you have any rice? Is Jesus your King? An eclipse is 
caused by a dragon trying to eat the sun. Gongs are beaten and 
cannon fired to scare the monster away. A few lessons in astron- 
omy are sufficient to make eclipses intelligible. The telescope and 
other scientific apparatus presented to this school by Captain Atkin- 
son, and the microscope presented by President Loos, are of the 
greatest value. Prof. Meigs has as many boys as he can take. He 
needs a dormitory. This will cost about $1,500. He is preparing 
to start some industrial work. He feels that this department is 
absolutely necessary. In China the literary class is the highest of 
all. It has the whitest and softest hands and the longest finger- 
nails. It has the greatest aversion to labor. This feeling must be 
broken down. If pupils are taught to work with their hands an 
hour every day, their conception of the dignity of labor will be 
changed. In this school are several promising young men. It is 
hoped that they will develop into effective evangelists. 

One day was spent with Mr. Williams on one of his circuits. 
This one was about ten miles in length. We left the city by one 
gate and came back by another. He spoke six or eight times. At 
each village we got down from our donkeys and ordered some tea. 
The people gathered about us and began to ask questions. They 
asked our honorable names and exalted ages, where our noble man- 
sions are located, how many princely sons we had. Mr. Williams 
gave them the facts called for, and then began to speak on Gospel 
themes. As a rule, they listened attentively. Sometimes they 
would urge an objection or ask a question. This would give him a 
chance to drive some truth home to the heart and conscience. We 
spent an hour in a temple. The monks were very friendly. They 
knew Mr. Williams. He spoke to them about the idols, and about 



140 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the only true God, and Jesus Christ whom he did send. The Hia 
Kwan chapel soon filled. While Mrs. Williams spoke to the 
women in a separate room, he addressed the men. It was such a 
crowd as gathered about our Lord or about Paul on his tours. The 
way they pressed to the front, and the eagerness with which they 
listened for an hour, showed that he had them in the hollow of his 
hand. His fluency is astonishing. Few men can speak in English 
with such rapidity as he can in Chinese. His knowledge of the 
people, their history, their customs, and their manner of life, 
served him well. When the books are opened it may be found 
written "that this man and that man were born there." 

The next morning Mr. Meigs asked Mr. Saw and me to go with 
him on one of his circuits. We were gone two days. The first day 
we had five services. We spent the evening and night in a temple 
in a large village. Part of the building is used as a school. The 
monk in charge was glad to see us, and was assiduous in supplying 
our needs. He sent the boys home, and hastened to cook supper 
for us. While he was in the kitchen, we went out and held a serv- 
ice on the street, and asked all to come to the temple when the 
work of the day was done. While we were eating, an old woman 
came in to worship. She lighted a candle on the altar, burned 
some incense before each of the gods, then went back to the altar, 
beat the gong and kotowed ten times. Then she arose, blew out 
the candle and left. Meanwhile the men of the place were coming 
in. Messrs. Meigs and Saw sang and expounded a hymn. We 
asked them if they worshiped the gods. They said yes. They 
worship the gods of heaven and earth and many others. We asked 
them why they worshiped. They said their hearts prompted them. 
We inquired what benefit they received. They promptly replied, 
"None." We asked them if there was any connection between 
their worship and their conduct. They answered us that there was 
not. The pious man is the man that goes to the temples and wor- 
ships the gods. It matters not how he lives. We tried to learn 
what they thought about sin. One old man said it was eating meat. 
He was a vegetarian. Another said tha^ it was an offense done 
against a man by another. Others spoke of it as a breach of pro- 
priety. Others still spoke of it as a violation of the laws. They 
did not seem to think it had anything to do with the gods. We 
asked them if there were any reasons why men should not sin. 
They said that a man ought not to sin in order that he might not be 
beaten or beheaded. We asked them if they were sinners. They 
laughed at the thought, and told us that they were Chinese. They 



NANKIN AND BOUND ABOUT 141 

regard themselves very much as the Pharisees did when our Lord 
was on earth. They think that outside barbarians sin; they do 
not. Toward the close one man admitted that he was a sinner. 
He was the brightest man present. He was the principal speaker 
throughout. He was a man of ability and culture. The Spirit of 
God was at work. That man was convicted of sin. Mr. Saw asked 
him if he would not then and there accept Jesus Christ as his 
Savior. He pressed him to decide. The man was convinced, but 
for some reason was not willing to make the good confession. He 
said, "It is hard to decide." The service lasted three hours, and 
was one of the most impressive I ever attended. The light was 
dim. Hundreds of gilt idols were about us. Incense pervaded the 
room. The listeners filled every available inch of space. The 
faces of many indicated that they were in earnest. After the audi- 
ence withdrew the teacher placed the desks side by side, and 
helped us make our beds. Before we rose the next morning the 
old woman came in and went through the same performance as on 
the evening before. She has done this for twenty-five years with- 
out missing a morning or evening. The teacher cooked some eggs 
and made tea, and sent us on our way rejoicing. He has no faith in 
the idols. But he burns incense and bows down. He wants us to 
rent a building in the village and come regularly. In all the vil- 
lages we found the people willing to hear the Gospel. Mr. Meigs 
sold Scriptures and dispensed medicine. The people used to fear 
him. They regarded him with contempt and aversion. On a 
recent visit an old man said to the people: "These men have been 
coming here for years. We know them, and we know that they are 
good men." That night there was a feast in the Hospital. One of 
Dr. Macklin's assistants was married, and gave a feast in honor of 
the happy event. There were about thirty dishes. It was an elab- 
orate affair. Each guest took delight in preferring the others 
before himself. It was a pleasant evening. 

While in Nankin I visited several temples. They are not used 
much except during the great festivals. Some are used as bar- 
racks, others are stored with coffins. I spoke once at the South 
Gate, and once at the Drum Tower, and once at the Union Service. 
I saw Miss Lyon's work among the women and children. One 
evening was spent with Dr. and Mrs. Beebe. They have been very 
kind to our workers. They are most estimable people. Among 
many incidents told by the Doctor was one with a dash of humor. 
One morning he was called to one of the Yamens. The imperial 
chamberlain died, and his wife thought the proper thing to do was 



142 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

to commit suicide. She had swallowed gold. Her people were in 
consternation. The Doctor gave her some medicine and withdrew. 
The next morning he was called again. He found his patient much 
better. She wanted to know if any evil effects would follow. He 
assured her that there would not. The incident passed out of his 
mind in a few days. Some weeks after he was visited by some men 
from the Yamen and asked if they might put up a tablet in the hos- 
pital in honor of this cure. He said they could. They wanted to 
know if they could do it that afternoon. That afternoon was quite 
agreeable. About three o'clock a great procession came down the 
street. A magistrate in his official robes was in command. A com- 
pany of infantry and a crowd of men bearing firecrackers attended 
the bearers of the tablet. Arriving at the place the soldiers fired a 
salute. Ten thousand firecrackers were exploded. The Doctor 
took the magistrate into the guest room and gave him tea, while the 
carpenters were getting the tablet in place. Then the guns were 
fired again, and ten thousand more firecrackers exploded. On the 
tablet were four characters in gold. They read: "Divine Percep- 
tion of Mysterious Devices." All that Dr. Beebe had done was to 
give the woman a dose of castor oil. Mrs. Beebe said one thing of 
which I have thought much. It was to the effect that any one who 
can make them laugh is a benefactor. The soul is cast down by the 
pride, indifference, hypocrisy, absurdities, stolid ignorance and 
inveterate prejudice of the people. Poverty and disease make 
exhaustive drafts upon the sympathies. Virtue goes out. A 
hearty laugh brings relief and helps one to regain one's usual faith 
and hope. 



XXII. 
CHU CHEO AND LU HOH. 

In company with Mr. Saw I started from Nankin on a visit to 
these two places. Chu Cheo is northwest from Nankin, and is forty 
miles distant. Lu Hoh is northeast from Nankin, and is thirty 
miles from it. Chu Cheo and Lu Hoh are forty miles apart. Mr. 
Williams went with us as far as Pukeo. He preaches here every 
week in the chapel rented by the mission. We were two hours in 
crossing the river. The Chinese are never in a hurry. Their part- 
ing words are, " Slowly, slowly go." It would be as easy to hurry 
a Court of Chancery as to hurry a coolie. The animals were gotten 
aboard the ferry-boat with much difficulty. A rope was tied about 
the neck and two men pulled on it; another took hold of the tail; 
another still used the whip. They were forced to jump up about 
four feet and then to jump down into the hold of the junk. It 
would be an easy matter to build a gangway. This would be a sav- 
ing in time and trouble, to say nothing of the comfort to the ani- 
mals. But their ancestors did it in this way, and any improvement 
is out of order. Truly, " the dark places of the earth are full of 
the habitations of cruelty." When a dying man is driven out of 
doors to breathe his last on the street, when a drowning man is left 
to perish unless he can pay some one to rescue him, we need not be 
surprised if mules and donkeys fare as they do. 

Chu Cheo is on the great high road between Nankin and Peking. 
Imperial couriers go this way when they bear messages from the 
Emperor to the Viceroy. This road was once fairly good, but it 
has been sadly neglected. No wagon could go over it now. We 
met caravans of donkeys carrying rice and wheat and oil and mer- 
chandise. We met wheelbarrows without number and coolies car- 
rying heavy loads, but we did not meet a cart or wagon drawn by 
horses or oxen or steam. The bridges are good but narrow. Night 
coming on, we put up at an inn. The place was well supplied with 
opium, but had neither rice nor tea. We went out to a tea-house 
and got some supper. We slept in a large room with a score or 
more of human beings, and pigs and donkeys and fleas. There was 
no lock on the door and no door to the establishment. We were 

143 



144 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

weary and slept well. The lullabies of the donkeys were unneces- 
sary. The fleas insisted on escorting us to the next station, and 
were loth to leave us then. While in this hotel and on this trip, I 
felt that the shadow had gone on the sun-dial several millenniums. 
We were in the Patriarchal age. The rude plows and harrows and 
harness, the method of sowing seed and reaping the harvest, are 
such as were in use in the days of Abraham. The ox still treads 
out the corn, or it is beaten out by hand. The farmer throws it 
up into the air that the wind may drive away the chaff. The mill- 
stone is turned by an ass or by the wife. In large towns flint and 
steel are sold to kindle the fire. Men and women haul boats along 
the rivers and canals. The next day, a little before noon, we 
reached Chu Cheo. We took Mr. and Mrs. Hearnden and Mr. and 
Mrs. Hunt by surprise. Their welcome was not the less cordial on 
that account. This town has a population of 20,000, and is the 
center of a district having a population of 4,000,000. From this 
center the missionaries evangelize the outlying cities and villages in 
a district of 5,000 square miles. 

That afternoon we left for Yu Ho Tsz, arriving at eight o'clock. 
Evangelist Shi and wife soon had some refreshments on the table. 
Mrs. Shi was the first convert at this village. Soon after her bap- 
tism she determined to build a chapel. Her neighbors heard of 
her purpose and came to her help. The chapel is a very neat 
building. It is large enough. She was then a widow. Since that 
time she married Mr. Shi. He was once a story-teller. He made a 
living by giving dramatic exhibitions of ancient scenes in Chinese 
history. Dr. Macklin led him to Christ and urged him to cut loose 
from all foreigners and earn his support among his own people. In 
so doing he would convince the Chinese that he did not make a con- 
fession of faith in Christ in order that he might eat the church's 
rice. He preaches in this chapel every day when he is at home. 
His work is known as far north as Peking. Travelers spend the 
night in the village. They hear the bell and stroll in to listen to 
the message. They hear an eloquent address from a Chinese. They 
carry a report of the place and the work to their homes. Early 
the next morning we went out to apprise the people that there 
would be a service in the chapel at eleven o'clock. We called on 
a man of some local celebrity. Once he was a terror to the com- 
munity. He was so harsh and cruel that two wives committed 
suicide. He felt the disgrace so keenly that he made up his mind 
to dispose of his property, cut off his tail, enter a monastery, and 
become a Buddhist monk. While in the village he heard the Gos- 




MEMORIAL HOSPITAL IX NANKIN, CHINA. 




HOXG-KOXG. 



CHU CHEO AND LU HOH 145 

pel, became interested in it, and soon made the good confession. 
Now he is an earnest Christian. He has thirty tenants on his land. 
His desire is to lead them all to Christ. He told us he had been a 
great sinner, and had experienced a great deliverance. He had 
been forgiven much, and he loves much. I spoke and Mr. Hunt 
interpreted me. Mr. Saw spoke on the same theme and applied 
the truth to the hearts and consciences of all present. After the 
service we were invited by Mr. Shi to sit down to dinner. Several 
neighbors were also invited. It took longer to get the guests seated 
than to eat the dinner. At one time I feared that they would never 
sit down. Each one wanted the lowest place. Each one sought to 
press the other into the seat of honor. At the table each one 
selected the choicest morsels, and, with his own chopsticks, placed 
them in the bowl of his neighbor. This was all in accordance with. 
Chinese etiquette. In some circles outside of China, each one 
wants the highest seat and desires to have the choicest morsels on 
his own plate. 

Dinner being over, we returned to Chu Cheo. The man from 
whom the mission rented the buildings in which the missionaries; 
live and work had invited us, on our arrival, to a feast in his house 
that evening. When the food was ready to be served, he came to 
call us. This man is a Confucianist. He had been a Taiping rebel. 
He was the only man in Chu Cheo that was willing to help our peo- 
ple when they first went to that place. The rest of the citizens 
would not rent their property, and wanted to chase them away. 
This man stood by them from the first day until now. He was 
imprisoned for his course. Because he was a police official and a 
man of influence, he was kept in confinement only a few weeks. 
He is now eighty years old. He has his coffin in his house ready. 
He shows it to his friends, and tells them proudly that it is a pres- 
ent from his sons. This is not an unusual thing in China. There 
is no way in which children can better show their love and regard 
for their parents than in presenting them .with a suitable coffin. 
The feast was fit for a king. The viands were the best the market 
afforded. The cooking and the service were admirable. One thing 
was lacking. There were no ladies present. This, too, was in ac- 
cordance with Chinese notions of propriety. The women of the 
mission were not invited. The women of the household ate their 
food in their own apartments. After the feast we had a service in 
the chapel. 

We spent the next forenoon with the workers, and saw 

and heard much of the work. The fame thereof has gone 
10 



146 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

out through that whole region. People come from distant towns 
and villages for medicine for their diseases. We learned some 
things of special interest. At first the workers could not go 
out on the streets, or go out on a preaching tour lest some 
of "the baser sort" should attempt to fire their home. They 
have no fear on that score now. The presence of a woman is 
a great help. Men can come and go like birds of passage; women 
come to make a home. The same is true of a child. The people 
gathered to see Mabel Hunt. They had seen "men devils" and 
"women devils," but they had never seen a "baby devil." Her 
parents were urged not to go to Chu Cheo. Mabel was a better 
protection than a battery of artillery. The Chinese said, "The 
gods must love these people, or they would not give them such a 
beautiful child." The officials heard of Mabel's birthday and made 
a great feast in honor of the occasion. Mr. Hunt talked to the 
magistrate and his assistants about the Christian religion. Mrs. 
Hunt presented the great lady with a copy of the New Testament. 
A house is now in course of erection. The ground was secured on a 
promise that it should be only one story high. The Confucian 
temple near by is a low building. It must not be overshadowed. 

After dinner we started for Lu Hoh. We spent the night in an 
inn about one-third of the way. It was market-day and the village 
was thronged. We had some difficulty in finding a place to sleep. 
We were packed into a small storeroom. Men and donkeys filled 
all the space without. At one table some men gambled all night. 
They began before our arrival, and continued after our departure. 
In the evening we visited a tea-house and had a service. The vil- 
lagers crowded about us to see and hear. They climbed upon the 
tables and wherever there was a place to stand. Mothers held up 
their babes that they might catch a glimpse of us. They listened 
attentively to what we had to say. On the way back we went to an 
opium den. We saw twenty smoking. It was a pathetic sight. 
We reached Lu Hoh the next afternoon. This is a solid business 
town. Many Mohammedans live here. They are bigoted and self- 
satisfied. They say they worship the true God, and are not idola- 
ters. They refrain from pork and from things strangled. We went 
out on the streets and visited several temples and stores. In the 
evening the chapel filled. Mr. Saw, Mr. Hearnden and I spoke. 
We prayed and sang as well. Mr. and Mrs. Saw did much good 
work here and made many friends. Several have told him that 
they believe, and will soon make the good confession. When they 
left on their furlough the enemies of the truth said that his Empe- 
ror had taken away his button. When Mr. Arnold left for Wuhu, 



CHU CREO AND LU HOH 147 

■some time before, they said that his Emperor was going to take his 
head off. They look upon missionaries as political agents of some 
foreign power. Mr. Saw is never weary in well doing. He preaches 
wherever there is a man to hear. He is a delightful traveling 
companion. 

The next day Mr. Saw and I left for Nankin. Mr. Hearnden 
returned to Chu Cheo. We reached the Drum Tower that evening. 
We were gone a week on this tour. That day we stopped at a tea- 
house for breakfast. At a table near us was a school-teacher. He 
gravely assured us that the Japanese were whipped in the war, and 
all present confirmed his assertion. He told us that the Black 
Flags were bound to succeed in Formosa. They had already sur- 
rendered. To him all foreigners are alike. He understands the 
Chinese characters and classics, but nothing else. He knows no 
more than an infant of general history, or mathematics, or philoso- 
phy, or science. He wears immense goggles to make him look wise 
and dignified. One of this class explained to one of our men the 
cause of night: "The people live inside the earth. The darkness 
is caused by the two hemispheres coming together and shutting out 
the sunlight." We asked him about sin. He indignantly denied 
that Chinese sin. That is for outside barbarians. Mr. Saw quoted 
Confucius against him. He said Confucius lied to teach his follow- 
ers a truth. On the way we wanted to take the picture of a buffalo 
plowing. The men in the field objected. A gatling gun would not 
have scared them more than a kodak. They were afraid we might 
take something out of them or put something into them. On 
almost every farm were shrines to the earth-god. We must have 
seen thousands of these that week. 

The ignorance and poverty of the people are indescribable. 
These two evils are caused by bad government. Give the Chinese 
the Gospel and free schools, good roads, railways, convenient mar- 
kets, modern farming implements, flouring mills, and they will be 
one of the greatest nations on the globe. They have vast resources, 
but they are not developed. They are taxed and oppressed to sup- 
port a horde of corrupt officials. The mandarins are greedy cor- 
morants. Once a woman went to a Chinese sage and told him that 
her husband and two sons had been devoured by tigers. He asked 
her why she did not go to some other place. She said that, though 
the tigers were numerous, the government was not oppressive. He 
turned to his hearers and emphasized the thought that bad govern- 
ment is worse than tigers. Give China a good government and her 
peace will be as a river, and her righteousness as the waves of 
the sea. 



XXIII. 
HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI. 

In order to see the work in different parts of China, I went up 
the Yangtsze as far as Hankow. This city is at the junction of the 
Han and Yangtsze, and is six hundred miles from the coast. 
Directly across the Yangtsze is Wuchang, while across the Han is 
Hanyang. These three cities have a combined population of nearly 
two millions. Hankow is a Treaty Port and a great center for 
trade. The bulk of tea exported is shipped from this point. 
Wuchang is the seat of the provincial government. Here the lit- 
erary and military examinations are held. Hanyang is the seat of 
the iron industry. Here cannon, steel rails and railway supplies of 
all kinds are produced. Millions of dollars have been invested in 
this plant. These cities are annually visited by thousands of 
officials, students, traders, mechanics and laborers, and so are 
brought within the reach of the Gospel. At the great examina- 
tions systematic efforts are made to reach every one of the twenty 
or thirty thousand who come to compete for degrees. Many of 
these carry some of the seeds of truth to their homes. It is plain 
that this is one of the most promising places for missionary enter- 
prise in China. 

Hankow is the home of a number of men of ability and experi- 
ence. The first one I met was Mr. Arnold Foster, a graduate of 
Cambridge. Though he works in connection with the London 
Society, he is entirely self-supporting. He has been in China 
twenty-four years. He teaches and preaches every day. He and 
his accomplished wife have a school for Eurasian girls in their own 
home. The girls are members of the family, and are treated in all 
respects as if they were their own children. They are quick to 
learn and easily managed. This school is a source of usefulness 
and joy. Mr. Foster said: "People say China does not move, but 
China does move. Quite true, she does not move as Western 
nations do, but she does move, nevertheless." He has seen great 
changes in his own time. He has no fear and no doubt as to the 
final issue of the conflict between light and darkness. Dr. Griffith 
John works in connection with the same Society. He has been in 

148 



HANKOW, WUHTJ, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 149 

the field over forty years. Dr. John is one of the great men of the 
age. He is known and honored by every missionary in the Empire. 
He has translated the New Testament, and published it with 
explanatory notes. His tracts have been sold by the million. In 
addition to his literary work he preaches every day. He has bap- 
tized three thousand. In a recent address Dr. John said he was 
full of confidence with respect to the future. He expected to see 
great things, and a forward movement, as a result of this fresh 
upheaval in China. It would doubtless open the country in a won- 
derful way, and, better still, would open the eyes and hearts of the 
people. "The missionary cause was making rapid progress. It 
had taken the first thirty-five years of Protestant missions in China 
to build up a church of six members, while the last thirty-five years 
had built up a church of about 60,000 members. Let us all take 
courage and go forward." 

J. A. Ingle represents the Protestant Episcopal Church of 
America. He is from Maryland; Mrs. Ingle is from South Caro- 
lina. They could not have been kinder and more helpful if they 
had been life-long acquaintances and friends. Mr. Ingle gave some 
account of the methods of work adopted and the results. The 
Society which he represents has a school for boys and a hospital in 
Hankow, and a college and a hospital in Wuchang. He has no 
street chapel where the Grospel is preached to promiscuous audi- 
ences. Instead, he has a guest room. A sign at the door invites 
all to enter who wish to inquire concerning the Christian religion. 
Tea and the water-pipe are served in accordance with Chinese 
notions of hospitality. Speaking of the converts, Mr. Ingle said 
that he found more comfort in the First Epistle to the Corinthians 
than in any other part of the Bible. Paul wrote to his converts 
that they were washed, and sanctified, and justified in the name of 
the Lord Jesus Christ, and in the Spirit of our God; but they were 
not just men made perfect. Who is there in the home land that 
has not felt the same? Converts in every age and in every field are 
substantially the same. The Protestant Episcopal Society has 
noble buildings. The chapels, colleges, hospitals, schools and 
homes are convenient and beautiful. No money is spared. These 
buildings are excelled by those of the Roman Catholics only. 

David Hill is a man of private fortune, laboring in connection 
with the English Wesleyan Society. He has been on the field 
thirty years. He and his brother support a dozen laymen in China. 
Mr. Hill dresses like a native, and lives on five cents a day. He 
has a tough constitution, else he would have died long ago. Few 



150 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

men can live as he has lived. He is superintendent of the work in 
and about Hankow. He makes long preaching tours into the coun- 
try. Speaking of methods, he said: "After all, it is the man, 
rather than the method. Dr. John adopts one method, and makes 
a brilliant success. Dr. Nevius adopts a different method, and his 
success is equally great." The Wesleyan Society has a high school 
in Wuchang. The boys pay fees and pay for their food. These 
boys are under religious instruction every day. English is taught 
as a pacificatory measure. The Society has a hospital as well. 
The evangelistic, the educational, and the medical melt and blend 
into one another, and together present a complete revelation of the 
fullness, the symmetry and the perfection of the redemption that is 
in Christ. Year by year Mr. Hill's conviction that the work is to 
go on and prevail is strengthened. 

At the headquarters of the American Baptists we met Dr. 
Adams. He has been in China twenty years, and in Hankow two. 
He gave one incident showing how God overrules events to the fur- 
therance of the Gospel. Years ago, in another province, the mem- 
bers of one of the churches under his care were urged to visit a 
neighboring village and preach. The villagers gambled and drank, 
and did not want them or their message. They beat the believers 
and drove them away. The more they were beaten and threatened, 
the more they returned and preached. The villagers killed their 
cattle and poisoned their wells. These things did not stop them. 
Then they threatened to kill them and burn their property. They 
got an astrologer to fix upon a lucky time. Hearing of their pur- 
pose, Mr. Adams went to the magistrate and asked him for protec- 
tion. He said: "Let them alone; there are rich men in that vil- 
lage, and I will make them pay dearly for any riot." Mr. Adams 
told him that that was not what he wanted; he wanted protection, 
for the innocent whose lives and goods were in peril. The magis- 
trate informed him that it was his duty to punish crime, not to pre- 
vent it. The villagers heard that the magistrate would not inter- 
fere, and proceeded with their preparation. The Christians put 
their cattle in one house and gathered in another for prayer and 
praise. Other churches hearing of their danger united in prayer on 
their behalf. Mr. Adams wanted to stay with them and share their 
fate. The Christians would not hear to this. They said his pres- 
ence would only aggravate the villagers. The assailants gathered 
for a night attack. They marched with lanterns and gongs and 
shouting. The ruffians of other villages joined the procession. 
Reaching the village they found the houses vacant, and supposed 



HANKOW, WUHU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 151 

that the people had fled. Just then they heard thein singing, and 
drew near to listen. At the close of a song an aged man lifted up 
his voice in prayer. As they listened, a furious thunderstorm 
broke upon them, and they were scattered as chaff before the 
whirlwind. They ran in all directions. Some fell into creeks and 
ponds and were drowned. When they went to the astrologer he 
said: " This fellow Adams has lightnings bottled up, and can let 
them go when he pleases." He advised them to go by day the next 
time. They planned another attack and started. On the way they 
sat down to arrange the division of the spoils. One wanted a cer- 
tain cow. His brother wanted the same animal. Each caught the 
other by the tail, and a general fight began. One man was killed. 
One had his head and another his leg broken. When the fight was 
over no one cared to go on with the attack on the believers. The 
magistrate cut off several heads, and made others pay fines of sev- 
eral thousand dollars. The villagers said: "It is no use to fight 
against these people." The Christians rented a house in that vil- 
lage, and soon a church was organized. 

John Archibald is the agent of the National Bible Society of 
Scotland in Hankow. In the eighteen years he has been in China 
he has traveled all over the Empire. He was the first foreigner to 
visit many places where now there are flourishing churches. Some- 
times he has been guarded by five hundred soldiers. The society 
whose agent he is publishes about three hundred thousand copies 
of the Scriptures annually. He told us that there are three stages 
in Bible work. First, all want it. Second, no one wants it. 
Third, a few want it. This last stage is the hopeful one. Mr. 
Archibald showed us some of the famous Hunan pictures. The 
artist represents Christ as a pig. The Romans represented him as 
an ass. He told us that the Yangtsze Valley is the most trying 
place on the globe. If one gets sick he must get out at once, other- 
wise he will die. The mercury stands at ninety-eight or one hun- 
dred degrees during the day. At night it falls a degree or two. 
Mosquitoes get too languid to bite. People must sleep under 
punkahs or not sleep at all. New arrivals will not take advice. 
They know more than the Veterans. They propose to show them a 
more excellent way. As a result, many get sick and go home or 
die. He says that it does not pay to live below a certain standard. 
To do so is almost sure to impair health, to diminish usefulness 
and to shorten life. He spoke of some who live on native food 
and go mooning about and accomplish nothing. Speaking of the 
riots, he told of one man who disregarded his principles and ran 



152 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

away. When called to account, he said he would rather ignore his 
principles one day than be dead all the rest of his life. John 
Archibald is as genial a spirit as ever left Scotland. A stranger in 
Hankow could not fall into better hands. He and his good wife 
open their hearts and their home. The only complaint they make 
is that their visitor does not stay long enough. 

Dropping down from Hankow we stopped at Wuhu. Though it 
was near midnight, T. J. Arnold was waiting for me, and took me 
to the home of C. E. Molland. As the day had been unusually cold 
and stormy, the warm welcome and bright fire were doubly pleas- 
ant. A union service had been arranged for Sunday morning. All 
the missions in the city were represented. The room was full. 
The audience was orderly and attentive. Mr. Molland acted as my 
interpreter. In the afternoon there was an English service in the 
Home of the International Missionary Alliance. The gunboats and 
the Customs were represented. The Alliance has ninety workers 
in China, and sixteen more on the way. Of these forty-five are 
beyond the Great Wall in Mongolia. The missionaries are 
from Sweden, Norway, England and America. D. W. Le Lacheur 
is the superintendent of the work in the Empire. This Home is 
also a school. The new workers spend six months or more here 
on the language. At night there was another service in English. 
Dr. Jellison, of the Methodist Episcopal Hospital, dropped in on 
his way home, and spent a pleasant hour with us. Wuhu is a 
walled city and an open port. It has a population of one hundred 
thousand. 

Leaving Wuhu in company with Messrs. Molland and Arnold, I 
returned to Nankin for a conference with all the missionaries. 
James Ware came from Shanghai and E. P. Hearnden came over 
from Chu Cheo. A whole day was devoted to this conference. 
Many important facts were brought out bearing upon the health of 
the workers, the needs of the work, and the best disposition of the 
force. Dr. Macklin pointed out the danger of sunstroke, the dan- 
ger of attempting too much and neglecting proper exercise, and the 
need of good food. The climate is hostile to foreigners. Some 
are better in China than at home. This is not true of many. 
Houses are needed for several families. More workers are needed 
to enter the doors which God is opening. As we had time, we vis- 
ited the other missions in Nankin. Dr. Beebe took us through the 
hospital under his direction.. President Ferguson took us through 
the buildings of the Nankin University. A Pennsylvania lumber 
dealer paid for one building. It is his ambition to spend a million 




Miss Dr. Daisy Macklin, Nankin. 

W. P. Bentley and Family, Shanghai, China. 



HANKOW, WURU, NANKIN AND SHANGHAI 153 

dollars in support of Foreign Missions. Another building was 
erected by the family of Philander Smith. This family paid for 
Dr. Beebe's Hospital, and for another building in Japan. We 
called at the Presbyterian and at the Friends' Mission. We saw all 
the workers and some of their work. The evening before I left 
Nankin the ladies arranged for a reception. All the missionaries in 
the city were present. Brief addresses were made by Mr. Williams, 
Dr. Beebe and Mr. Houston. After the addresses, refreshments 
were served. It was like a family gathering. All agreed that it 
was one of the most agreeable evenings ever spent in Nankin. The 
next morning I bade farewell and started* for Shanghai. Most of 
the workers accompanied me to the ship. It was a great privilege 
to spend a few days in the homes and to look into the hearts and 
study the methods of these saintly workers. It would be a good 
thing if some one could come out every few years. It would do 
one's own heart good for many a day to see the joy of the mission- 
aries. His coming will give a new impulse to the work and will 
bless his own soul. I left Nankin with a high opinion of the wis- 
dom, energy and consecration of the workers. The Lord's cause 
cannot fail in such hands. 

In Shanghai I met Mr. Ferguson, of Tibet. He came from Tibet 
to Hankow, a distance of fifteen hundred miles, on horseback. He 
asked for an escort while traveling through the province where the 
Mohammedans are now in rebellion. The authorities could give 
him no escort. They told him he could not go. He said he must 
go. For six days he had only one meal. Some soldiers called his 
companion a Foreign Devil. He dismounted and seized one of them 
by the tail. The others fled like sheep. Mr. Ferguson is a Cana- 
dian by birth. He is a member of the church in Muncie, Ind., for 
which H. T. Buff preaches. He is supported by some friends in 
Canada and in the United States. From Shanghai I go to Peking. 
Mr. Williams goes with me as interpreter and guide. This trip 
reminds me of the time when we were students together in old 
Bethany's classic halls. 



XXIV. 

PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN. 

"We took ship at Shanghai for Tientsin. This is the port of 
Peking. There were four missionary families on board. Some 
had been home and were returning, others were coming out for the 
first time. The rules say that passengers are not allowed to go 
bare backed, or to dress their hair, or smoke opium, or spit on the 
floor, or talk loudly in the salon. With such specific instructions it 
need not surprise any one that we behaved fairly well. Our course 
was through the Yellow Sea, the Gulf of Pechele and the Peiho. 
We passed between the Promontory of Shantung and Korea. The 
province of Shantung was the home of Confucius and Mencius. 
These men, more than any others, have shaped the Chinese char- 
acter. In every city in the Empire there is a Confucian temple. In 
every school there is a tablet to Confucius before which the pupils- 
bow on entering. One of their poets has said: 

"Confucius ! Confucius ! how great is Confucius ! 
Before Confucius there never was a Confucius ! 
Since Confucius there never has been a Confucius I 
Confucius ! Confucius ! how great is Confucius !" 

Shantung is the scene of some of the most successful work in 
China. Here Drs. Nevius and Corbett and Timothy Richard and 
others labored for years. Here new methods were adopted. The 
converts were encouraged to support themselves and not to look 
abroad for any financial aid. Some of these converts migrated to 
Shanse. They called the village they built the Gospel Village. It 
was a time of famine. It was difficult to put up houses for them- 
selves. Remembering the teaching they received, they built a 
chapel and held services. We passed Port Arthur and Wei-hai- 
wei. These places became famous in the war with Japan. We 
passed the Taku forts at the mouth of the Peiho. These were 
captured by the British and French in the second Opium War. As 
the water on the bar was low we left the ship and went by train to 
Tientsin. This was a thrilling experience. Think of it! A train 
in China! After riding on donkeys and mules and wheelbarrows, 
it was refreshing to buy a ticket and board a train. When the 

154 



PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 155 

engine rolled up to the station I took off my hat. The train is 
European. The filth and stenches are indigenous. 

We reached our hotel after dark. Mr. Stanley, of the Amer- 
ican Board, helped us to engage a cart to take us on in the morn- 
ing. We were off at daylight. The cart was drawn by two mules, 
driven tandem. The body of the cart was about two feet wide and 
four feet long, and was covered with blue cloth. One sat inside, 
the other sat on the shafts. There were no springs to break 
the jolting. The roads were rough and full of holes. They 
became worse as we drew near to the capital. Peking is eighty 
miles distant. We were told that it would take two and a half 
days to make the trip. Robbers abound, and it is perilous to 
travel after dark or before day. When we were beyond the wall of 
Tientsin, Mr. Williams told the driver he would give him a dollar 
extra if he would reach Peking in two days. The effect was 
magical. The mules and cart felt the inspiration. We passed 
every vehicle in sight. The first day we made more than half the 
distance. A little after midnight the driver was knocking at 
our door and telling us that it was time to start. We growled 
and protested, but it was of no use. All fear of robbers had van- 
ished. At once we left the inn. Bad as the roads were, we 
sped on. We made fifteen miles before breakfast. A little after 
noon we saw the walls of Peking. By three o'clock we were at our 
journey's end. The driver was as proud as if he had won a battle. 

Dr. Lowry met us and took us to his own home. He and his 
family did all in their power to make our visit enjoyable. They 
are Ohio people, and represent the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
Dr. Lowry is President of the Peking University. One son has 
charge of the hospital and dispensary. Another is Secretary of 
the American Legation. We visited the University. In the 
literary department there are one hundred and forty students. 
Most of these are believers. The Girls' School has nearly as many 
enrolled. The Medical School is well attended. The first morning 
at chapel the boys sang, "King Jesus, reign for evermore." 
That was in sight of the Emperor's palace. This mission has a 
strong staff. The workers go out into the towns and villages 
for hundreds of miles. The work was opened in 1868. Last year 
the conversions numbered eleven hundred. One of the most inter- 
esting events on Sunday was the Ragged Sunday School. There 
were four hundred present. Dr. Lowry is superintendent. The 
teaching is done by the advanced students in the university. It 
was a treat to hear them sing. Their singing was wholly unlike 



156 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the caterwauling that is called music in China. This school 
has changed the character of the community. Instead of calling 
the missionaries "foreign devils," they ask when Sunday and 
Christmas are coming. At the union meeting Mr. Williams and 
I were asked to conduct the services. 

We met Timothy Richard. He is one of the noted men in 
China. He and Dr. Wherry presented a memorial to the throne 
the day before our arrival. They want the Emperor and his 
advisers to understand the aims and motives of the missionaries. 
They want to convince them that the missionaries are good men, 
and that the evil reports published about them are false. They 
ask that Christianity be placed upon the same plane as other 
faiths. The officials who are anti-foreign are so either on account 
of ignorance, or because they foresee that the triumph of the Gos- 
pel means an era of honesty and efficiency, and an end of squeezing 
and robbery and oppression. Mr. Richard is seeking to open 
the eyes of the rulers of China. He is better qualified for this 
work than any other man in the Empire. He has been decorated 
by the Emperor for his services in the time of famine. He is 
the personal friend of several of the highest ministers. The 
Emperor is reading his translation of McKenzie's " History of the 
Nineteenth Century." The Prime Minister asked him to point 
out the reforms which are needed. He has been assured by several 
members of the Emperor's Council that they are in fullest sym- 
pathy with him. A club of young men has been formed. They 
are pledged to seek reforms. They publish a paper, and hope 
to reach every official in China. An amusing thing occurred while 
the memorial was under discussion. Dr. Wherry and a member of 
the Council had a lively tilt over the question of original sin. 
Confucius taught that men at birth are by nature good. Calvin 
taught that they are totally depraved. Gilbert Reid is engaged 
in the same kind of work. He dresses and lives in Chinese style. 
He aims to reach the official class in hope of being able to teach 
them the truth. He visits them and they visit him. While all 
do not receive him, he says his success is ten times as great as he 
expected. He reaches new men every week. Mr. Richard thinks 
this a most interesting period in Chinese history. The Japanese 
war has revealed a condition of affairs that surprised and shocked 
the officials. They do not know what to do. They are willing 
to be taught. 

We visited the workers of the American and Presbyterian 
Boards, and met the men connected with the London Society. We 



PEEING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 157 

were told that there are one thousand believers in Peking and four 
thousand in the region round about. Mr. Anient took us to see Mr. 
Murray's School for the Blind. The founder of this school was 
born near Glasgow. While a lad he lost his left arm. He became a 
letter carrier. Part of every day he studied Hebrew and Greek. 
He wanted to engage in some form of mission work. He was 
engaged as a colporteur by the Bible Society. In the summer he 
sold Bibles in the highlands; in the winter he worked among the 
sailors on the Clyde. His success was wonderful. The society 
wanted a man for China, and William Murray was sent. He has 
sold one hundred thousand copies of the "Classic of Jesus" in 
Chihli and Manchuria. He became interested in the blind by see- 
ing them go about in winter in Peking. He spent eight years in 
trying to adapt a system to the language of China. He gathered 
in one or two and tested his system. In two months one was able 
to read fluently. Another was able to read in six weeks. It seems 
miraculous to the Chinese that the blind should be thus cared for 
and endowed with what, to them, are supernatural powers. Some 
are being trained as evangelists and others as Bible readers. God's 
promise is being fulfilled: "I will bring the blind by a way that 
they have not known; I will make darkness light, and crooked 
things straight." 

Peking has a population of one million three hundred thousand. 
The walls are high and in good repair. There are two cities, one 
Chinese and the other Tartar. Within the Tartar City is the Impe- 
rial City, and within that, the Forbidden City. The streets are 
wide, but are unpaved. In dry weather one is in danger of being 
blinded by the dust. In the wet season one is in danger of being 
drowned in the pools or in the streams that rush along the thor- 
oughfares. There is an air of decay everywhere. It extends to the 
palaces and temples. Peking is the filthiest city in the world. 
When the Son of HeaVen goes out it is in a closed chair. The 
streets are hidden from his sight. If he would get out and walk he 
would see what a sty his capital is. On one of the streets we saw a 
dead beggar. He had been stripped of the few rags he wore. No 
one seemed concerned. In^ the temples and other places we found 
the guardians rude and inhospitable. Doors were closed and locked 
as we approached. Exorbitant fees were demanded before they 
would be opened. Everywhere else in China the priests were glad 
to see us and to show us everything. We found it difficult to get 
into the Hanlin Academy. There was little to see, but the gateman 
did not want to admit us at all. It would have been a pleasure to 



158 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

see the Emperor, but he did not call or even send his card. That 
reminds me of an incident in the life of Pestalozzi. He and sev- 
eral others were sent to see Napoleon on some educational business. 
Napoleon turned them over to some of his subordinates. On his 
return his friend said: "Did you see Napoleon?" The great 
teacher said, "No, and Napoleon did not see me." Perhaps the 
Son of Heaven was busy with his wife and numerous sweethearts, 
or was trying to borrow money to pay the little bill he owes Japan. 
Dr. Lowry took us to see the astronomical instruments made by the 
Jesuits in the seventeenth century. They are used no longer, but 
they are worth seeing. These Jesuits were able men. One of them 
cast three hundred cannon for the Emperor. He gave to each the 
name of a female saint. 

From Peking we went on to the Great Wall. The builder of 
this wall smashed the feudal system of China, and became Emperor 
in fact as well as in name. He called himself " The First Emperor." 
Not only so, but he burned the books that disproved this claim and 
cut the throats of the literati, lest they should reproduce the books. 
He built the Great Wall to protect the Empire against the northern 
tribes. It was a colossal undertaking. It took a million of men ten 
years to complete it. It is one thousand five hundred and fifty miles 
in length. The height is regulated by the ground over which it 
runs. There are high watch-towers from which an army could be 
seen approaching. These towers were once manned; now they are 
deserted. Towers and gates and wall are tumbling into ruins. No 
repairs are made. The wall served its purpose, but it is useless 
now. The Mongols and Manchus crossed it and possessed them- 
selves of the Empire. Dr. Martin says that there is no man in 
Chinese history so execrated as the Emperor that built the Great 
Wall. He is remembered as the Builder, Burner and Butcher, 
rather than as the Founder of the Empire. The scholars charge 
him with seeking to reduce the people to ignorance that he might 
govern them with facility, in accordance with the maxims of 
Laotze — "Fill their bellies and empty their heads." The wall is 
forty-five miles distant from Peking. The road for most of the 
way runs over a sandy plain. The country is poor and the popula- 
tion sparse. In the hotels we could get neither rice nor meat. Had 
we not taken some food with us we should have fared badly. The 
rooms were cold, and had no way of warming them. The poorer 
the fare the higher the price. We paid four or five times as much 
for what we got as we would have had to pay for better accommo- 
dation in the South. No matter. The wall repaid us for all our 



PEKING AND THE GREAT WALL AND RETURN 159 

discomfort. It was a great sight. It is one that can never be for- 
gotten. It is something to look upon a work that dates back two 
centuries before the birth of Christ. 

On the way back we saw the Ming Tombs. With one exception, 
all the Emperors of the last dynasty were buried here. The tombs 
were magnificent pieces of work in their time. They are from 
three to five hundred years old. They are neglected and are falling 
into decay. We were gone three days. One night we slept in a 
Methodist chapel. The evangelist in charge took us in and sup- 
plied our needs. He would not accept anything for his services. 
The Lord grant that he may find mercy in that day. 

The next morning we were on our way to Tientsin. We spent a 
few hours in Tung-cho. The American Board has been at work 
here for thirty years. Dr. Sheffield showed us through the North 
China College. There are seventy-five students enrolled. Dr. 
Sheffield had been attacked some months before and left for dead. 
There were thirty-two wounds in all. Of these thirteen were on 
his head. Being a man of robust constitution and good health, and 
having good attendance, he got well. He can say with Paul, "I 
bear in my body the marks of the Lord Jesus." Tung-cho is the 
point at which goods sent up the Grand Canal are reshipped for 
Peking. They are carried from this place on wheelbarrows and on 
camels and on mules. The wheelbarrows frequently have three 
horses or donkeys pulling them and three or four men steadying 
them. Great caravans of camels are met. These carry about six 
hundred pounds and make about three miles an hour. On our way 
to the Great Wall we met thousands of these great animals. They 
were carrying tea and other goods to Siberia and Mongolia and 
coals from the mines to Peking. One train would carry more than 
all we saw. 

From Tung-cho we went by boat to Tientsin. We were thirty- 
six hours on the way. Mr. and Mrs. Stanley had invited us to abide 
with them. No one could have wished for more pleasant entertain- 
ment. Tientsin has a population of nine hundred and fifty thou- 
sand. It was here that the treaty was framed at the close of the 
second war with England. >- The treaty provides for the protection 
of all persons teaching or professing Christianity. So long as they 
do not offend against the laws they are not to be persecuted or 
interfered with. Here Li Hung Chang built a hospital for Dr. 
McKenzie. Here Lady Li established a school in which girls should 
he educated. McKenzie was a rare man. His influence was bound- 
less. He was decorated by the Emperor. He received the star of 



160 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the Order of the Double Dragon. The Viceroy behaved badly after 
McKenzie's death. He built a hospital across the way and opened 
a medical school. He demanded that the money he had given for 
the work be refunded. We visited the hospital. Many things in it 
reminded us of the gifted man under whose auspices it was built- 
His aspiration could be expressed in the following lines: 

"O God, that I could spend my life for others, 
With no false aims of my own ; 
That I could pour my soul into my brothers, 
And live for them alone." 

After his death Dr. Fred. C. Koberts took up the work. He was 
equally brilliant, and almost equally distinguished. After six years 
of service he went to his reward. The thought of his heart was: 

"I ask no heaven till earth be Thine, 
Nor glory crown while work of mine 
Remaineth here, when earth shall shine 

Among the stars, her stains wiped out, her captives free, 
Her songs sweet music unto Thee — 
For crown, give, Lord, new work for me." 

Dr. Smith is now in charge. He is a modest and genial Scotch- 
man. He is a worthy successor of the saintly men who have pre- 
ceded him in that high office. We called on Dr. King. As Dr. 
Howard, she was associated with Dr. McKenzie in the treatment of 
Lady Li. 

On the boat from Tientsin to Shanghai a mandarin and his ser- 
vants occupied all the cabins but one. One servant filled his pipe 
and kept it lighted. One supplied him with a wet rag with which 
to wipe his face and fingers after eating. One furnished him with a 
piece of brown paper when he wanted to blow his nose. When he 
ate he threw the bones under the table. When he drank soup he 
could be heard across a ten-acre field. In this way he showed that 
he relished it. At Shanghai there were a score of mandarins to meet 
him and to do him honor. This man represents the worst class of 
men in China. They stand in the way of all progress. They are the 
conservatives of the conservatives. We went as usual to the hos- 
pitable home of Mr. and Mrs. Ware, and were cordially welcomed, 
as usual. 



XXV. 
FEOM SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG AND CANTON. 

Befoee leaving Shanghai, I called on Dr. Y. J. Allen. He is a 
veteran missionary and a remarkably interesting man. He has been 
an evangelist, teacher and editor. He aided the government during 
the Taiping Eebellion and received a "button" in recognition of 
his services. He is now engaged in literary work. He founded 
and still edits The Review of the Times. This is the most widely 
read magazine in China. The officials not only read it, but buy it 
in quantities and distribute it among their friends. Dr. Allen tells 
the Chinese that he has a right to speak. He is not a wayfaring 
man spending a week or a month among them; he has spent most 
of his years in China ; all his interests are here. He speaks as one 
having authority, and he is heard. 

Since the war with Japan, the government has been asking, 
" What must we do to be saved?" The Mandarins are at sea; they 
have no answer. Most of them are fatalists. These say that noth- 
ing can be done. Dr. Allen has undertaken to answer that ques- 
tion. He is telling the officials that they must accept the new order 
of things, and do it ungrudgingly and cheerfully. The foreigners 
are here to stay. They are too strong to be driven out, and too 
influential to be ignored. China needs to get rid at once and for- 
ever of her old notions of exclusiveness and fancied superiority. 
The nations she contemptuously styles " barbarians " are her peers, 
and more. Plato thanked the gods that he was born a man and not 
a brute ; a Greek, and not a barbarian. This is the feeling of the 
Chinese. One of them felicitated himself that he was not born 
across the seas, where the people are ignorant of the domestic rela- 
tions, clothe themselves with leaves, eat wood, dwell in the wilder- 
ness, and live in holes in ~the earth. Being born in the Middle 
Kingdom, he has infinite blessings and the highest felicity. China 
can never go back to her old civilization. Whether she likes it or 
not, she must take her place among the nations of the earth. The 
next thing China needs is truth. , It is the truth that makes men 
free from [error and superstition. The officials do not know their 
duty. It is not enough that they do no wrong; they do wrong when 

11 161 



162 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

they do nothing. In the recent plague in Canton, officers were con- 
tinually going to the temples to entreat the idols to stop the disease. 
Day and night were made hideous by the cries of the people, the 
beating of drums and gongs, and the burning of fire crackers. In 
time of famine, millions die before food can reach them. If the 
rulers would adopt sanitary measures and build railroads, these 
things would be at an end. China needs the Gospel. Look all 
around the world. Wherever you see progress, you see that it can 
be traced to the Gospel as its root. This is true of Europe, Amer- 
ica, Australia, and Japan. Persia and Turkey are dead. Were it 
not for international jealousies they would perish in a day. China 
can not keep out the Gospel. She ought not to try. It is her only 
hope. Dr. Allen is telling the Chinese that they must be born 
again. The acceptance of the Gospel means the regeneration of 
her whole national life, sweeping reforms in the army and navy, the 
reconstruction of the executive and the purification of the civil 
service. Dr. Allen is the friend of China. He wants her to be 
strong and rich and wise and holy. 

I took passage for Hong-Kong in the "Empress of Japan." 
The first missionary work in the Empire was done in the South, 
because the South was first opened. On our way we passed several 
cities in which much good work has been done. Foochow is a city 
with a population of six hundred thousand. It is the center of a 
populous district. Moule says that the workers toiled and prayed 
there for eleven years without a single convert, and when he wrote 
there were eight thousand. The number now, so Dr. Gregory tells 
me, is ten thousand. Bishop Walden has been there holding the 
annual conference. He speaks in high praise of the eighty native 
preachers, and of the work generally. One Chinese Christian gave 
$10,000 toward the educational work in Foochow. Not far away is 
Hangchow. Here the Church Missionary Society has built a large 
hospital. One man gave $360,000 for the building and the endow- 
ment. Dr. Main says, with the Gospel and steel as weapons, we 
fight sin and sickness. Farther south are Amoy and Swatow. In 
these cities the English Presbyterians, the American Baptists; the 
Eeformed Church, and perhaps others, are at work. Dr. Lyall, of 
Swatow, was on the "Empress." He has charge of the medical 
work. He told me that the out-patients number from one to two 
hundred per day. These cities are the centers of the work. The 
missionaries and the Chinese evangelists go into the interior for 
hundreds of miles and carry on the work. The rivers and canals 
of China make this possible. The house boats draw little water. 



FROM SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG AND CANTON 163 

Some one said they go on "a heavy dew." Formosa was to our 
left. Here Drs. McKay and Barclay have done great good. 

Hong-Kong lies within the tropics. Since 1842 it has been a 
British colony. Before that time it had no commerce. It was the 
site of a village peopled by a few fishermen. Now it is one of the 
great ports of the world. The island of Hong-Kong has an area of 
thirty squares miles. It is mostly a mountain. The population 
numbers 250,000. Ships from all parts of the globe ride at anchor 
in the harbor. Hong-Kong is the most cosmopolitan place I have 
yet seen. One sees more varieties of people and more strange 
headdresses on the streets than even in Shanghai. Being a Brit- 
ish colony, several regiments are here. Mr. Musson, one of the 
chaplains, asked me to make his house my home. He took pains 
to show me the points of interest in the city, and particularly the 
missionary work. The English are good colonizers. They build 
roads that will endure as long as those built by the Romans. The 
Chinese say . their roads are good for ten years, and bad for ten 
thousand years. The English build for the ages. Wherever 
England establishes herself, she rules in righteousness. As a result 
the people prosper. English possessions are open to all races and 
all creeds. The London Society has two hospitals in Hong- 
Kong. Each was built by one man and handed over to the 
mission. One was built by a Chinese. He had been educated in 
England and married a rich English wife. She died soon after their 
.marriage. He built this hospital as her memorial. Afterward he 
went back to his old ways, and now has five or six beauties in his 
harem. The two hospitals have accommodations for one hundred 
in-patients. The out-patients number twenty thousand a year. Dr. 
J. C. Johnson showed me through both. I met Dr. Chalmers. He 
is a famous Sinologue. He has been in China forty-three years. 
He told me that he has charge of thirty schools. The Government 
gives them grants in aid. These grants are sufficient to pay all 
the expenses of the school. The Wesleyan, the Basle, the Rhenish 
Societies are also at work in Hong-Kong. 

Macao is thirty-five miles distant; Canton is ninety-five miles. 
Morrison, the first Protestant missionary to China, did his work at 
these two places. Macao is now a Portuguese possession. Its bus- 
iness and its glory have departed. It is a pretty place, with some 
scenes of historic interest. The chief of these is Morrison's grave. 
Canton is on the Pearl River. The approaches to the city were 
guarded by forts that were considered by the Chinese impregnable. 
The British gunboats easily silenced their guns and passed on. 



164 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Canton was ransomed by the payment of $6,000,000. This is 
the most prosperous city I have seen in China. The buildings 
are substantial. The streets are about six feet wide. Coolies go' 
along carrying chairs or loads, and though the streets are full of 
people, there is no collision. Canton is the silk market of China. 
This is the source of its wealth. The people must be very relig- 
ious. Before every shop or store is a place where incense is burned 
night and morning. The temples are full of idols, and are in good 
condition. In one I saw Marco Polo among the gods, and incense 
burning before him. Canton is the only place in China where I 
saw dogs and rats for sale as food. Old ladies eat rats as hair 
restoratives. These animals are not used in this way as much as 
is commonly supposed. The boating population is a curiosity. It 
numbers three hundred and fifty thousand. People are born, mar- 
ried, live and die on boats. They cook and eat and wash their 
clothes and worship the gods on the water. They have no other 
home. Some are owned and managed by women. On one boat I 
counted four generations, and not a man in the lot. These mer- 
maids handle the sail or oar or rudder as skillfully as men. Dr. 
Swan, whose guest I was while in Canton, showed me through the 
hospital. Dr. Peter Parker opened a work here sixty years ago. 
Dr. Happer reached Canton in 1844. For a time he stood almost 
alone. He endured hardships and confronted difficulties such as 
now few men can appreciate. Drs. Kerr and Swan are now in 
charge of the hospital. Dr. Kerr has been here for forty-two years. 
He is one of the most eminent surgeons living. He told me that 
forty thousand in-patients and hundreds of thousands of out- 
patients have been under his care since his service began. Each 
year the in-patients number one thousand two hundred, and the out- 
patients forty thousand. There are thirty-one men and women 
connected with the mission of the Presbyterian Church in this dis- 
trict. There are four stations and thirty-two out-stations. The 
school for girls has one hundred and sixty-five enrolled. The col- 
lege is across the river. It has eighty students. Fourteen of these 
are studying for the ministry. Mr. Beattie of this mission took me 
to many places of interest. One of these was a Buddhist temple. 
We heard the priests chant for nearly an hour. I called at the mis- 
sion of the Southern Baptists. Dr. Graves was teaching a class of 
thirty theological students. He said to me that they prepare men 
to preach, and leave the Lord to call them. I visited the Berlin 
mission. Mr. Kollecker explained that most of their work was 
educational. There are ten day schools and one theological semi- 




FOUR GENERATIONS IN CHINA. 




BOYS' SCHOOL IN CHU CHEO, CHINA. 



FROM SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG AND CANTON 165 

nary connected with this mission. There are eight workers on the 
staff, and about eight hundred believers. I called at the Wes- 
leyan Compound and on the representatives of the American Board, 
but did not see their work. The Catholics have a large property 
and a majestic cathedral. The ground upon which it stands was 
once the property of the city. It is a constant source of irritation 
to the Chinese that it is not so yet. Most of the Catholic mission- 
aries in China are French Jesuits. The French Government stands 
behind them. Years ago all missionaries were called upon to leave 
China. Their property was confiscated. When the French made 
their treaty with China, they demanded that all such property 
should be returned to its Catholic owners. Centuries had elapsed 
since the confiscation. Most of the property was held by persons 
who had come into possession of it honestly. That made no differ- 
ence ; they were obliged to vacate. So it came to pass that what 
was once Government property reverted to the Catholics and they 
erected their cathedral upon it. 

For three years Canton was held and controlled by the British. 
These were three prosperous years. The people soon became 
reconciled to their new rulers. Taxes were collected and the 
money used honestly. This was a new experience in Chinese poli- 
tics. The salaries of the officials are small; they are expected to 
squeeze the people for much more than their stipulated allowance. 
Those who are best qualified to judge say that the service is cor- 
rupt and venal from bottom to top. One prominent Chinese said 
he thought he knew three honest officials in the Empire. The man- 
darins are supremely interested in perpetuating the existing mis- 
government. Unyielding resistance to change is their motto. They 
have a monopoly and want to keep it. The English are often 
supercilious and overbearing, but they are honest and capable, and 
people prosper wherever the administration is in their hands. It is 
their honesty that gives them their place and influence in all 
Oriental countries. There are many in Canton who wish the Brit- 
ish had retained permanent possession of their city. After two 
days spent in looking into tlie work, I returned to Hong-Kong. 



XXVI. 

CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA. 

Tradition says that the Apostle Thomas preached the Gospel 
in China. This is possible, but not probable. So far as is known, 
the Nestorians were the first to send missionaries to the Chinese. 
Their watchword was, " Christ for the whole world; and the whole 
world for Christ." The time of their arrival cannot be ascertained. 
"Williams thinks there are grounds for placing it as early as 505. 
The now famous Nestorian monument discovered in Shensi in 1625, 
was erected in 781. Some writers have denied or doubted the 
genuineness of this monument, but without sufficient reason. The 
inscription gives a summary of the Gospel and an account of 
its entrance into China and the patronage extended to it by various 
Emperors. It states that Olopun made his way from the West to 
China and translated a portion of the Bible. The Emperor investi- 
gated the new doctrine, was pleased with it, and said: " Let it have 
free access throughout the Empire." A monastery was built 
and the Emperor's picture was painted in it. He gave orders that 
monasteries should be built in every prefecture in China. The new 
faith enjoying imperial patronage spread rapidly in the ten circuits 
into which the Empire was then divided. It continued to prosper 
till the Empress Wu usurped the throne. She was an ardent 
Buddhist, and persecuted Christianity during the twenty years of 
her reign. After her death the buildings which she caused to be 
destroyed were restored, and the number of missionaries was 
increased. 

Meanwhile Buddhism, which entered China in the first century 
of our era, was making progress. The two native faiths, Confu- 
cianism and Taoism, united against tb.e two foreign religions, 
Buddhism and Nestorianism. They prevailed upon the Emperor to 
issue a decree suppressing all foreign religions. He commanded 
that the Buddhist monasteries be destroyed throughout the 
Empire, and that the monks and nuns all return to the ways of 
common life. Nestorianism shared the same fate. The Emperor 
said the men who taught it were to be required to resume the ways 
of ordinary life, and their unsubstantial teachings were to be no 

166 



CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 167 

more heard. Buddhism rallied and filled the Empire. Nestorian- 
ism received its death-blow. No doubt many of the converts 
proved faithful unto death. Many, so it is believed, were gathered 
into the churches planted later. 

John of Mount Corvin was the first Roman Catholic to enter 
China. He reached Peking in 1293, and was kindly received by 
the Emperor, Kublai Khan. He was made an archbishop, and had 
seven suffragan bishops under him. These were turbulent times, 
and Catholicism did not make much progress. After the fall of 
the Mongol Empire direct overland connection with Europe was 
interrupted, and for about two hundred years China was almost 
completely isolated from the Western world. Francis Xavier 
attempted to gain an entrance for the Gospel, but died on the coast 
in 1552. Matteo Ricci is justly regarded as the apostle of Roman 
Catholicism in China. He reached the Province of Canton in 1581. 
Soon after he made his way to the capital. He was favorably 
received by the Emperor on the throne. Ricci is described as a 
man of great scientific acquirements, of invincible perseverance, of 
various resources, and of winning manners, maintaining with all 
these gifts, a single eye to the conversion of China, and the bring- 
ing of people of all ranks to the faith of Christianity. Ricci is 
highly extolled by the Jesuits for his learning, tact, skill and perse- 
verance. Another writer of the same church paints a different 
picture. "The kings found in him a man full of complaisance; 
the pagans a minister who accommodated himself to their super- 
stitions; the mandarins a pliant courtier skilled in all the trickery 
of courts; and the devil a faithful servant who, far from destroy- 
ing, established his reign among the heathen, and then extended it 
among the Christians." Among the converts was an officer of 
high rank, a member of the celebrated Hanlin Academy. His 
daughter did what so many Catholic women have done since. She 
gave her fortune to help the work. She built thirty-nine churches 
and printed one hundred and thirty books. The influence of Ricci 
and his associates at the capital was very great. They corrected 
the calendar, made a survey. of the Empire, and cast cannon for the 
Emperor. The Emperor, so it is said, was on the point of becom- 
ing a Christian. Had he changed his faith the history of China 
and her relations with other nations would have been very different. 

There arose fierce disputes among the missionaries themselves. 
The Jesuits began the work, but they were not allowed to prose- 
cute it alone and in peace. The Franciscans and Dominicans sent 
their men to the field. Directly the strife began. They differed 



168 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

on two points. These were the words that should be used for God, 
and the worship of ancestors. They appealed to the Pope and to 
the Emperor. These distinguished arbiters differed. The Pope, 
assuming that he was Christ's vicegerent, insisted that his decision 
should settle the matter. The Emperor was not accustomed to 
such lofty claims and such authoritative expressions. He said, 
"Who is this man who dares to make decrees for my subjects con- 
trary to my will ? " All thought of becoming a convert was 
dismissed. His successor issued an edict prohibiting the propaga- 
tion of Christians in the Empire, and calling upon all missionaries 
to leave the country except such as were required in Peking for 
scientific purposes. Some obeyed and left; others did not. They 
hid themselves among their flocks, and lived and died among them. 
Roman Catholicism remained under the ban till 1842. Since that 
time the force in the field has been greatly strengthened. The latest 
published statistics areas follows: Bishops, 41; European priests, 
664; native priests, 559; colleges, 34; convents, 34; native con- 
verts, 1,002,818. Their cathedrals are the finest buildings in the 
Empire. There are four of these in Peking. The church is im- 
mensely wealthy. She owns great amounts of property in the open 
ports and in ports that are certain to be open in a few years. She 
can afford fine buildings on eligible sites. "With her, money is no 
consideration. 

Robert Morrison was the first Protestant missionary to enter 
China. He reached Canton in 1807. It was a capital crime for a 
Chinese to teach any foreigner the language. He saw that it would 
not be wise for him to attempt to preach to the people. He 
entered the service of the East India Company, and spent his time 
between Canton and Macao. He undertook to translate the 
Scriptures, and to prepare a Chinese-English Dictionary. In 1814 
he published the New Testament. In 1818, with the help of 
Milne, he published the Old Testament. In the years 1817-1823 he 
published a dictionary in six volumes. It has been said that 
there is no finer monument of human perseverance than the dic- 
tionary of Dr. Morrison. Someone has -said, "The patience that 
refuses to be conquered, the diligence that never tires, the caution 
that always trembled, and the studious habit that spontaneously 
seeks retirement, were best adapted to the first Protestant 
missionary to China." He saw three or four converts, no churches, 
schools, or congregations publicly assembled. When he died in 
1834 the prospect was nearly as dark as when he landed. He died 
as he lived, in faith. He was one of those of whom it is said that 



CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 169 

they did not receive the promises, but saw and greeted them from 
afar, and confessed that they were pilgrims and strangers on the 
earth. In one of his letters he said: "I patiently await the events 
to be developed in the course of Divine Providence. The Lord 
reigneth. If the kingdom of our God and Savior prospers in 
China, all will be well. Other matters are of comparatively small 
importance." 

The Nankin Treaty provided for the opening of five cities to for- 
eigners. This treaty was formed at the close of the first opium 
war. The five cities are Canton, Amoy, Foochow, Ningpo and 
Shanghai. These are all south of the Great River. The Tientsin 
Treaty provided for the opening of other cities in the north. 
Other conventions provided for the opening of cities on the 
Yangtsze as far inland as Chunking. The whole Empire is now 
practically open. There are missionaries in all the provinces 
except one. The Catholics were there three hundred years ago, 
and they have been able to hold their ground. Since the adoption 
of these treaties Christianity is on a very different footing from 
what it was before. Its advocates are free to go where they please, 
and the converts are not to be molested in any way. There are 
now seventeen hundred missionaries scattered throughout the 
Empire. The converts number about sixty thousand. There are 
schools and colleges and universities, with a total enrollment of 
twenty thousand pupils. There are schools for the blind and the 
deaf. Leper asylums have been established. The missionaries 
protest against opium and against foot-binding. In times of 
famine, or flood, or pestilence, they are among the foremost in min- 
istering relief. The converts are, for the most part, from the poor 
and the middle class. This need surprise no one. It was so in 
Christ's time and in Paul's ministry. "Have any of the Pharisees 
believed?" That was the taunt then. The officials now, as a 
class, stand aloof. The fact is, no Christian can hold office. 

To the Chinese it seems monstrous that barbarians should 
attempt to improve the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire when 
they are so miserably deficient themselves. What are the grounds 
of this opinion? They allow men and women to mix in society and 
walk arm in arm through the streets. They do not scruple to 
trample printed paper under foot. They bury their dead in coffins 
only an inch thick, and do not burn a bit of gilt money to support 
them in the future world. They allow the rich and noble to pass 
into office without standing a literary examination, and do not 
throw open the doors to the poorest and meanest in the land. 



170 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

They send gunboats and seize the territory of their neighbors. They 
see the immoral and intemperate lives and cupidity of some from 
Christian lands, and then ask, "What good will accrue to us ia 
case we change our faith?" It is in this strain that a Chinese 
tract speaks. The missionaries have to meet the age-long and 
inveterate prejudices of the people. Treaties do not change public 
sentiment and make bitter things sweet. Archdeacon Moule states 
that converts lose all share in lands attached to the ancestral halls, 
and the affection and respect of relatives. In some cases their 
names are stricken from the family rolls, and thereby their pos- 
terity are incapacitated for competing at the public examinations 
for literary degrees. They become aliens and outcasts. They find 
it harder to borrow money and to obtain help in time of need. If 
they keep Sunday, they lose a seventh of their wages and gains, and 
often their employment. It requires no small degree of courage 
and faith to confess Christ in such circumstances. There are those 
who take joyfully the spoiling of their goods, and who regard it a 
gift that they can suffer for Christ as well as believe on his name. 
There are those, and they are a large number, who have demon- 
strated the sincerity of their faith by enduring martyrdom. 

There are sixty-one hospitals and forty-four dispensaries in the 
Empire. The patients number 358,000 a year. This work mani- 
fests in a very practical way the humane side of our religion. It 
does much to undermine opposition and to dispel prejudice, and 
open homes and hearts that would otherwise be closed to the mis- 
sionary. Williams gives a letter written by a Chinese gentleman to 
a doctor in Macao: 

"To knock head and thank the great doctor. Venerable gen- 
tleman: May your groves of almond trees be abundant, and the 
orange trees make the water of your well fragrant! As heretofore, 
may you be known to the world as illustrious and brilliant, and as a 
most powerful and skillful doctor. I last year arrived in Macao 
blind in both eyes. I have to thank you, venerable sir, for having 
by your excellent medicines cured me perfectly. Your goodness i& 
lofty as a hill, your virtue deep as the se,a. I return to my mean 
province. Your illustrious name, venerable sir, will extend to all 
time ; during a thousand ages it will not decay. I return thanks for 
your great kindness. Impotent are my words to sound forth your 
fame and to express my thanks. I wish you everlasting tran- 
quillity." 

It should be said that the Chinese distrust and dislike of for- 
eigners are not without cause. Emperors belonging to three dynas- 



CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 171 

ties were kindly disposed toward missionaries. Had the Pope 
manifested the meekness and gentleness of Christ, the prohibitory 
decrees would never have been issued. His lordly airs gave 
offense. His insolence was resented. The opium wars were the 
most unjust wars ever waged. When the Chinese asked the British 
to help them fight opium, the answer was: "If your people are 
virtuous and your officers incorruptible, no opium will be con- 
sumed. But your people will have it. If we do not bring it, some 
one else will. Better legalize it and make it a source of revenue." 
The English took Hong-Kong. France took a large slice of the 
South. Concessions were demanded in several ports. In these the 
imperial authority is practically nullified. The bearing of Christian 
nations has not always been respectful. The Chinese are a proud 
people, and they were hurt by the unjust demands enforced by irre- 
sistible gunboats. Had she been dealt with as Japan, it is likely 
that the results would have been equally happy. The Christian 
nations did not act in a way to commend the Gospel to the Chinese. 
On the contrary, their conduct made it a stench in their nostrils. 
Furthermore, the Taipings claimed to be Christians. They had the 
Scriptures, and were baptized. But they were not worthy of that 
holy name. Nevertheless, the fact that they made this claim had 
its weight. 

In the face of all this prejudice and hostility, Christianity is 
making substantial gains year by year. Those who have been long- 
est in China are most confident of the ultimate and universal tri- 
umph. I have seen no man who is dubious of this result. In 1842 
there were six Christians in the Empire; now there are sixty 
thousand. If Christianity should advance in the next half century 
at the same rate that it has in the last, and there is no reason why 
it should not, the converts will number many millions. The work 
is of God, and it cannot fail. We have his word of promise con- 
firmed by his oath that all the earth shall be filled with his glory. 



XXVII. 

THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN CHINA. 

Though there had long been a conviction that we ought to aid 
in the evangelization of China, it was not until 1886 that anything 
was done. Dr. W. E. Macklin had been sent to Japan. On his 
arrival he found that there was no special need of a medical mis- 
sionary in that field. The Japanese physicians are numerous and 
competent. Taking counsel with his associates and with the mana- 
gers at home, he left Japan for China. After spending six months 
in Shanghai on the language, he moved to Nankin. As soon as he 
was able to speak and secure a place, he began to preach the Gos- 
pel and to heal the sick. It was not long till A. F. H. Saw and 
E. P. Hearnden joined him. They came from the West London 
Tabernacle. They had been trained in doctrine and in work by 
W. T. Moore. The next year F. E. Meigs and E. T. Williams and 
their families arrived from America. They secured rooms in an old 
temple, repaired them, and began the study of Chinese. Other 
workers have been sent to reinforce them at different times. Thus 
T. J. Arnold and W. R. Hunt and their wives came from England, 
and Dr. James Butchart, W. P. Bentley and wife, and Miss Rose 
Sickler, and Miss Emma Lyon came from America. Several valua- 
ble workers united with them on the field. These are as follows : 
James Ware and wife. He had long been connected with the Brit- 
ish and Foreign Bible Society. He is fluent in speech, up in the 
language, diligent in business, and fervent in spirit. C. E. Molland 
and wife. He is English; she is Irish. They are a vigorous and 
happy pair. The pleasure of the Lord is sure to prosper in their 
hands. There has been one death, and only one, in the Mission — 
that of Carrie Loos Williams. A dozen children have been born. 
These brighten and bless the hearts and homes of the missionaries. 
Nankin, the first place occupied, is on the Yangtsze, and is two 
hundred miles from the coast. It is a walled city, with a popula- 
tion of five hundred thousand. There are thousands of villages 
and towns within a hundred miles. Shanghai was next occu- 
pied. This is the most influential commercial center in the East. 
Its importance is destined to increase year by year. Shanghai is a 

172 



TEE WORK OF TEE DISCIPLES OF CEBIST IN CHINA 17B 

great literary center. Here the Recorder, the Review of the Times^ 
and the Missionary Review, to say nothing of the Herald and other 
secular papers, are published. Peking has a larger population, but 
in the volume of business and in the influence exerted Peking does 
not compare with Shanghai. Not only so, but Shanghai is one of 
the most cosmopolitan cities in the world. Walk along the Bund 
any hour of the day, and you will meet representatives of all kin- 
dreds and peoples and tribes and tongues. Wuhu is an open port, 
fifty miles up the river from Nankin. It has a population of about 
one hundred thousand. Chu Cheo is on the great road from Nan- 
kin to Peking. It is a city of considerable political importance. 
Lu Hoh is not far distant. This district has an area of five thou- 
sand square miles, and a population of four million. Not far from 
Chu Cheo there are two other cities and sixty towns and villages. 
Yu-Ho-Tsz is a village. The young church there is almost self-sup- 
porting. These places are centers from which the workers go out 
and evangelize. 

Several buildings have been erected. The Memorial Hospital in 
Nankin cost $6,000. It has accommodations for sixty in-patients. 
The dispensary and chapel are a few yards distant. When the 
medical work began, the people were angry and wanted to drive 
Dr. Macklin away. The college building is in the same com- 
pound, as are the three homes erected for the workers. The 
Carrie Loos Williams Memorial Building is in course of erection. 
It will be the home of the Girls' School and the center of the work 
among the women. In Wuhu a home has been built. It needs a 
wall to make it complete. This will keep the pigs away and dis- 
courage burglars and beggars. In Chu Cheo a home is going up. 
This will be a great improvement over the mud house in which 
the two families there are now living. The other buildings used 
are rented. Some are commodious and convenient; others are not. 
Rents are very high. It is much more economical to build than to 
lease. 

The location and work of the several missionaries at present, 
are as follows: Dr. Macklin has charge of the medical work in 
Nankin. There are two dispensaries — one at the Drum Tower and 
one at the South Gate. The out-patients number about twelve 
thousand a year; the in-patients about five hundred. As a rule, 
only the worst cases come to the foreigner. The Chinese, naturally 
enough, prefer their own physicians when they can heal them. 
They prefer powders made from tigers' claws or bones, or decoc- 
tions made from bugs and maggots, to the drugs that come from 



174 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

America. The native physicians know nothing about surgery. 
Dr. Macklin told me of a beggar he found on the street. Both feet 
were gangrened. He took him in, washed, dressed, clothed and 
fed him. He removed both feet, and nursed him till he was able 
to go about. Then he set him up in business and put it in his 
power to earn an honest living. He said the difference between 
the hospital and the cold street was the difference between heaven 
and hell. The man did not become a Christian. On the contrary, 
he went back to his opium. Was the doctor's work a failure ? 
Love never fails. Dr. Macklin preaches to the out-patients every 
day, and conducts services with the in-patients in the hospital as 
well. He goes out into the tea-houses and villages and preaches as 
he can find time. He uses his spare hours in writing for medical 
journals and in the study of social problems. Dr. Butchart has 
been associated with Dr. Macklin in the work since he reached 
China four years ago. When Dr. Macklin was home on furlough, 
Dr. Butchart had full charge. They have decided that it is better 
to divide. One man with trained assistants can do all that is 
needed in Nankin. In consequence of this decision, Dr. Butchart 
is looking out for a new place. This is not so simple a matter as it 
may seem. Some cities are fully occupied from a medical point of 
view. The present hospitals can do all the work there. Other 
places are not open. Dr. Butchart has been placed under guard on 
entering the gates, and placed in the magistrate's yamen. After 
an interview he was escorted out and passed on from one band of 
soldiers to another till he was out of the province. There are 
cities that will allow no foreigner to remain within their gates. 
Dr. Butchart hopes to be able to find a place soon where he can 
open a dispensary and begin work, and after a time put up a 
hospital. 

F. E. Meigs has charge of the college. This is a boarding- 
school. The rising bell rings at six; breakfast is at seven; the 
work of the day begins at eight. There are thirty pupils and three 
teachers. All business is in the hands of the President. This takes 
most of every forenoon. He teaches four classes in the afternoon. 
Six boys are Christians, eight are inquirers. Most are from non- 
Christian homes. This must be so in the beginning of a work of 
this kind. In addition to this, he conducts the chapel exercises. 
He preaches regularly on Sundays and at other times. He has 
charge of the Sunday-school, the Endeavor Society and the mid- 
week prayer-meeting. Twice a month he visits a station in the 
country, fifteen miles from Nankin. He is gone two days, and 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHBIST IN CHINA 175 

preaches ten or twenty times. He has his household duties and 
general reading and study besides. E. T. Williams goes to the 
South Gate three times a week. He conducts a Bible-class and the 
communion service on Sunday, and preaches to the people. He 
goes to Pukeo and Kwan Ying Mung once a week. On his way 
home from each place he stops and preaches at Hsia Kwan. He 
preaches at several other points while going and coming. He gives 
some time each week to the Missionary Revieio. He is editor of 
this magazine. When I was in Peking, Timothy Eichard, the Sec- 
retary of the Society for Christian and Useful Knowledge, thanked 
the Foreign Society for the good work Mr. Williams is doing, and 
expressed his desire that the Society could see its way to allow him 
to give even more time to a work so urgently needed and for which 
he is singularly qualified. Dr. Allen edits the Review of the Times. 
He discusses political and scientific subjects. His magazine is a 
secular one. The Missionary Review is wholly religious. The 
native pastors must be supplied with information respecting the 
progress of the work. 

Messrs. Hearnden and Hunt live in Chu Cheo. Mr. Hearnden 
has charge of the evangelistic work there, and of the boys' school. 
He preaches every day in the street chapel, and goes out into the 
towns and villages occasionally. The boys at school attend morn- 
ing prayers in the chapel. Mr. Hunt goes to Yu-Ho-Tsz once a 
week. He has charge of the dispensary in Chu Cheo. He sees 
about twenty patients a day. The night before my visit, he was 
called to see a young wife who had taken poison. Her mother-in- 
law was cruel, and she wanted to commit suicide. She had to 
respect and obey her while living, but dead she could haunt her and 
make her life wretched. The old lady was alarmed and wanted 
help. His fame has gone out through all the district. He has taken 
lessons from Drs. Macklin and Butchart, and can handle most of 
the cases that come to him. He evangelizes in the country as he 
can command time. Mr. and Mrs. Saw have just returned from 
home. They go to Lu Hoh for the present. They have lived there 
and have many friends, By their preaching and teaching and by 
their blameless and beneficent lives, they did much to break down 
prejudice and opposition, and to pave the way for the triumph of 
the Gospel in that section. 

James Ware lives in Shanghai. He superintends the work in 
the Central Church. He preaches on Sundays and teaches a Bible- 
class. He conducts evangelistic services in the new manufacturing 
district of Shanghai. He has the oversight of the schools and 



176 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

examines the pupils weekly. He has charge of the work at four 
out-stations as follows: Tseu Saw, fourteen miles distant, a 
walled city having a population of thirty thousand; Tsungming, 
another walled city on an island fifty miles from Shanghai, having a 
population of one million; Yung Shing Saw, a city sixty-five miles 
away, and Tung Chow, a walled city eighty miles distant, with a 
population of eighty thousand. He is a member of the committee 
for the revision of the New Testament. In addition to all these 
duties, he directs the labors of ten colporteurs, and is the treasurer 
of the mission. W. P. Bentley and wife are at home on account of 
sickness. Their home on the field is in Shanghai. He had work in 
Tsa-Sao and in Yang-King. He went out into the country twice a 
month. He edited the Chinese department in The Intelligencer, 
and was General Secretary of the Endeavor work in China. In 
Shanghai he had charge of the weekly prayer-meeting and of the 
mid-week preaching. C. E. Molland lives in Wuhu. He preaches 
every day in the street chapel and conducts all the regular services 
of the church. He superintends the teaching in the day school. 
As he has opportunity he goes out into the villages in the vicinity 
of the city. T. J. Arnold also lives in Wuhu, but works altogether 
in the country. He goes. west as far as Wu Wei Cheo and Lu Cheo 
Fu. He usually goes in a house boat. His district has a popula- 
tion of six millions. 

Miss Lyon has services with the women in the hospital every 
morning, and visits them from time to time. She teaches one class 
in the college. Every afternoon, except Wednesday, she goes to 
the chapel and talks to the women. On Wednesday she has a 
prayer service. She has a Sunday-school for small children. 
Some of the most advanced students in the college help. She 
receives visits from the women, and explains the Gospel and the 
aims and motives of the missionaries in coming to China. She 
returns the calls of the women. This takes no little time, as they 
come some days in a stream. Mrs. Rose Sickler Williams assists in 
the Sunday services at the South Gate, and teaches a Bible class 
after the communion. She makes weekly visits to Hsia Kwan and 
talks to the women. While she was talking recently, one of the 
women was so moved that she said she would bind her child's feet 
no more. Then and there she proceeded to take off the bandages. 
She superintends a Bible woman who works among the neighbors, 
and translates school books for the Educational Association. She 
gives six hours a day to Edward and Loos. There is no public 
school in Nankin to which children can be sent. Mrs. Ware has a 




CHINESE GAMBLING. 




- 





a 





S-SJ' 



^m 



A BA1LTVAT IX CHINA. 



WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN CHINA 111 

Bible class for women on Monday on Seward Road, and another on 
Wednesday on Yangtszepoo Road. She looks after the school for 
girls, and receives and returns the visits of Chinese women. Mrs. 
Hearnden hopes to start a girls' school in Chu Cheo. She and 
Mrs. Hunt work among the women as they are able. Mrs. Hunt 
goes with her husband into the country, and carries the Word of 
life into the homes of the people. Mrs. Meigs, Mrs. Macklin, Mrs. 
Molland and Mrs. Arnold have small children and household cares. 
They assist in the work as they can, but they find it impossible to 
do all they wish. They feel that they must not neglect their 

children. 

Several evangelists are engaged. Thus Chu works at the South 
Gate, Nankin; Ni works at Seward Road, Shanghai; Shi works at 
Yu-Ho-Tsz; Ku is now at Tung Chow; Zi is across the river. Mrs. 
Ware has a Bible woman who has an interesting history. Her sons 
are able to support her. As she is old, they wish here to retire. 
She says, "I must tell the people of Jesus while I live; I shall 
have plenty of time to rest in heaven." She has led eighty or 
ninety into the church. Sometimes she weeps because the people 
are so indifferent. She says: "I don't mind their treating me 
roughly, but it makes me sad because they treat Jesus so badly." 

The work has several needs. The college needs a dormitory. 
This will cost $1,500. President Meigs wishes to start an Industrial 
Department. He wants to teach the students printing or binding 
or engraving. An oil engine and a press will cost $300. The 
pupils must not be pauperized. They must be taught to work and 
to rely on their own resources. More workers are needed, so that 
if one or two break down the work may go on. Dr. Macklin needs 
a trained nurse for the hospital. Miss Lyon needs an associate. 
The work among the women and children is too great for her. Dr. 
Butchart needs an evangelist to go with him to the city where he is 
to open his work. Buildings are needed. Thus far four families 
live in rented houses. The rent would pay for buildings in a few 
years. Not only so, but the health of the workers would be better. 
Chinese houses have no floors, and are only one story high. It is 
expedient to sleep upstairs^so as to get away from the malaria. 
Schools and chapels are needed. We have no property in Shang- 
hai. Business men have invested millions in factories, banks, 
hotels, stores, godowns, clubs and homes. Anyone who walks 
through Shanghai, or Hankow, or Tientsin, or Hong-Kong, will be 
surprised at the magnificent buildings seen everywhere. The 
money invested in mission property is trifling in comparison. 

12 



178 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

We have reason to be grateful to God for the workers he has 
given us in China. They compare favorably in natural ability and 
education and consecration with any I have seen. The measure of 
success that has rewarded their labors calls for an enlargement of 
effort. We must send out more men and women, and thoroughly 
equip them for the most effective prosecution of the work. So 
shall we be blessed, and so shall we become a blessing. 



XXVIII. 
SOME CUEIOUS THINGS IN CHINA. 

One of the first things that strike a visitor as strange is the way 
the people dress their hair. The men shave all the head except 
the crown. The hair there is allowed to grow as long as it will. 
It is braided and allowed to fall down the back. Usually it reaches 
to the ground. The owner will piece it out if necessary. This is a 
Tartar fashion. The Chinese were compelled to adopt it as a sign 
of subjection. Now they are proud of their queues. Women wear 
their hair in different ways. One can tell at a glance at the hair 
whether the, woman is a maiden "heart whole and fancy free," or 
is engaged, or is married. 

Another curious thing is the way the women compress their 
feet. The smaller they are the prouder the owner is of them. 
They are bandaged in early life and their growth arrested. The 
Chinese say: " It is very important that the feet should be bound 
so that they can walk beautifully, with mincing step, swaying grace- 
fully, thus showing to all that they are persons of respectability." 
The origin of this custom is in doubt. Some cynics say that jeal- 
ous husbands invented it to keep their wives from gadding about 
too much. Another theory is that a favorite Empress had a club 
foot, and the women of the court crippled their feet that they 
might resemble hers. In marriage arrangements one of the first 
questions asked is as to the size of the woman's feet. This is of 
greater consequence than her beauty, or health, or fortune, or dis- 
position. If the " golden lilies " are only three inches long the 
arrangements can proceed. Women belonging to the laboring 
classes do not compress their feet. If they did they could not do 
their work. The Manchu women do not follow this fashion. For 
two hundred and fifty years^the court influence has been against this 
foolish and hurtful practice. But it has had no effect whatever. 
The Chinese women, when spoken to on the subject, say that Chris- 
tian women compress their waists. No doubt this is more injuri- 
ous than bandaging the feet. The one evil is as hard to cure as the 
-other. 

One of the strangest things seen in China is the long finger- 

179 



180 A CIRCUIT OF THE GIOBE 

nails worn by certain classes. It is not an unusual thing to see 
nails an inch and a half or two inches long. All the nails are not 
of this length. They could not well be. Silver sheaths are worn 
to protect them. These nails show beyond question that they do 
no manual labor. They belong to the leisure class. Work is for 
coolies and for those who have not taken literary degrees. School 
boys write essays on the " Dignity of Labor." That is very well. 
But aristocracies of all kinds prefer that all labor should be per- 
formed by other hands than theirs. 

Men and women dress much alike. Both wear trousers and 
jackets. The skirts of the women are not as long as those worn 
by the men. The Chinese do not use stoves to warm their houses. 
The front of their houses is usually open. The family live largely 
in public. They carry small stoves in their sleeves and so keep 
their hands warm. When they sit down in their homes or travel,, 
they have a stove at their feet. The brick platform on which they 
sleep has an opening under it. This is filled with dry grass and 
set on fire. In this way the bed is warmed. Instead of warming 
their houses, the Chinese put on more clothing. They put on one 
suit over another till they seem twice their real size. They have on 
five or six suits at a time. The suits are padded and so are very 
thick and warm. They take them off in the spring gradually. In 
summer most of the people wear nothing at all on their heads. Some 
wear a skull cap with a button on the top. The women never wear 
anything approaching the millinery of the West. There are no 
large bills for husbands to pay for spring or winter bonnets. A few 
wear a band around their heads, but it is a simple and inexpensive 
affair. 

The Chinese have a superstitious regard for printed paper. In 
school-rooms, shops, private residences, by the roadside, and in the 
temples, are baskets or boxes designed for the reception of scraps 
of printed paper picked up anywhere. It matters not what it is 
that is printed; the characters are sacred. Men go about the 
streets picking up every scrap in sight. These are burned and the 
ashes thrown into the sea. The Chinese say that when letters 
were invented heaven rejoiced and hell trembled. " He who uses 
lettered paper to kindle the fire will have ten demerits, and will 
have itchy sores; he who tosses lettered paper into dirty water, 
or burns it in a filthy place, will have twenty demerits, and will fre- 
quently have sore eyes or become blind. He who goes about and 
collects, washes and burns lettered paper, has five thousand merits, 
adds twelve years to his life, will become honored and wealthy, and 



SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN CHINA 181 

his children and grandchildren will become virtuous and filial." 
One of the things for which they reproach foreigners is that they 
have no regard for printed paper. They think this a sure sign 
of a want of right feelings. 

The Chinese have many ways of laying up merit in the future 
world. Thus, one may buy crabs or shrimps or fish that are offered 
for sale and put them back into the sea. That can easily be done, 
as they are generally alive when sold. There are in China asylums 
for animals. One who wishes to perform a meritorious act can 
go to market and purchase sheep or pigs or fowls, and save them 
from the butcher's knife. These can be placed in the asylums. 
Free ferries have been established, schools and orphanages have 
been opened, the hungry have been fed, and all with a view to 
secure a higher existence in the life to come. Certain acts have an 
ascertained value. Thus, to dig a well or repair a road ranks as ten. 
To give enough ground for a grave ranks as thirty. To set on foot 
some scheme for the public good ranks still higher. Other acts 
are counted against the doer. If a man levels a grave he will be 
charged with fifty demerits ; if he digs up a corpse, with one hun- 
dred; if he cuts off one's male heirs, with two hundred. I saw an 
old priest on his way from Peking to a famous temple in the south. 
He was making the pilgrimage on foot. When asked why he was 
doing this, he said he wanted to lay up a store of merit. He was 
afraid if he did not he would be an animal in the next life. 

The Chinese have peculiar notions about suicide. If one has 
had a quarrel with another, or has been deeply injured by him, 
instead of killing the enemy, he will kill himself. If possible, he 
will destroy himself in the house or at the door or on the premises 
of the man who has done him the wrong. In that case he makes 
his enemy responsible for his death, and amenable to the law for 
the crime of murder. Not only so, but as a disembodied spirit he 
can have his revenge both while his enemy lives and after his death, 
as he could not while in the flesh. It is a most terrible thing to 
have one commit suicide on one's premises, or on one's account. 
No blame attaches to the dead. Suicide is honorable. This for- 
midable weapon is always in the hands of the weak. It is a protec- 
tion against many evils. If a wife is neglected on account of a 
favorite in the harem, she can have effective redress. If a second- 
ary wife or a daughter-in-law is cruelly dealt with, she can have 
her revenge. Dr. Macklin saved a man who had tried to take his 
own life because of some real or fancied injury of a neighbor. I 
think his dog bit him. As the Doctor bound up his wound, he 



182 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE 

said, " If I had died I would have made it interesting for him. ,i ' 
Begging is a profession. The beggars have guilds as other pro- 
fessions have. Certain streets are assigned to certain ones. A 
merchant can secure freedom from their visits by paying so much a 
year. The beggars go about and ask for one cash. They go into 
the stores and ring bells or beat gongs. In Canton I saw a man 
with a snake six or eight feet long. This reptile was trained to 
dart out its tongue. As a last resort, the beggars begin to sing. If 
any one has heard Chinese music at its worst or best, he will readi- 
ly believe that the merchant capitulates, sooner or later. Some- 
times a man draws a knife and cuts himself. A crowd gathers, 
blood flows, and the shopkeeper gives him a cash to get rid of him. 
He goes to the next place and repeats the performance with the 
same result. In Peking I saw a hundred men in line before a bank. 
That day every beggar was entitled to a cash; other days they go to 
other banks. It is not creditable to drive them out or send them 
away empty. Moreover, it is not safe to do so. They will watch 
their opportunity. At a wedding or funeral they will pour in and 
fill the house and defile everything. Beggars sit on the roadside. 
Some are blind or deformed or diseased. Mr. Saw gave an old 
lady a liberal offering. She got down on her knees and kotowed 
nine times. 

In China the aged are congratulated rather than the young. 
The older one is the more he is respected. A man with a long 
white beard is regarded almost as a god. It is not an uncommon 
thing for a man who has reached the age of four score to be 
reported to the Emperor. The Son of Heaven may permit his 
family or friends to erect a tablet in his honor at their own expense. 
In Western lands people try to keep young. Ages are marked 
down as are the prices of shop-worn goods. In China age is prized, 
not youth. If the record is falsified, it is done by adding several 
years. New Year is everybody's birthday. If a child was born 
the last day of the old year, he is counted two years old on New 
Year's day. A recent traveler in China states that he began as a 
stripling with neither child nor wife. In six months he had several 
wives, a dozen or two of children, and several grandchildren. He 
changes the records to please the people. The three New Year's 
wishes are for " children, rank and longevity." 

It is customary when speaking to disparage everything belonging 
to one's self and to magnify everything belonging to the person 
addressed. More than any other people the Chinese obey the pre- 
cept, "In honor preferring one another." When two men meet 



SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN CHINA 183 

the conversation is about as follows: "What is your noble name? " 
" My worthless name is Li." " Where is your splendid mansion?" 
"My mean hut is in the next province." "What is your exalted 
longevity?" " My miserable years number only sixty-eight." "Is 
the distinguished lady still living?" "The addle-pated person of 
the inner apartments is still alive." " How many princes have 
you? " "Two stupid little curs." "Are the princes doing well at 
school? " " The contemptible puppies have learned a few charac- 
ters." How much of this is formal, and how much is sincere, it is 
not for a stranger to say. 

Chinese women do not count for much. When young they are 
required to wait on their parents. After marriage they are to wait 
on their parents-in-law. There are few schools for girls, except 
those founded by missionaries. The Chinese have a contempt for 
the capacity of the female mind. It is a rare thing for a woman to 
be able to sign her own name. It is exceptional when a man can 
not. Ask a father how many children he has, and he will not count 
his daughters. Boys are often dressed as girls. This is done to 
protect them against evil spirits. Girls are not worth carrying 
away. The ancients taught that boys and girls ought not to sit on 
the same mat or eat together after they are seven years of age. 
Even their clothes should not hang on the same pegs. She is mar- 
ried to a man whom she has never seen. She has no choice in the 
matter. A virtuous wife is taught not to go beyond the threshold 
of her husband's house alone. She needs some one to protect her 
against "water, fire and fools." She can marry but once. This 
rule does not apply to, the male sex. The sages taught that man is 
as high above woman as heaven is above the earth. When a woman 
becomes a mother or a mother-in-law or a grandmother, her posi- 
tion changes greatly. She passes from a slave into a goddess. 
But even beyond the grave she is to wait on her husband. In 
churches men sit on one side and women on the other. In some 
churches there is a high screen in the central aisle to prevent 
flirtation and even seeing. This is in deference to Chinese 
sentiment. 

There are many other curious things in this strange land. They 
clean the streets once in thirty years. Dirt superabounds. No one 
cares. Pestilence is caused by some evil spirit. Friends shake 
their own hands when they meet. A man keeps his hat on in token 
of respect to a caller. He takes off his glasses for the same reason. 
The Chinese locate the intellect in the stomach. A proverb says, 
"You can row a boat in the interior of a broad-minded man." 



184 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Soldiers carry fans and umbrellas on duty. Full-grown men fly 
kites. Women smoke as well as men. The left hand is the seat of 
honor. The host will not sit down before his guest. White is the 
color worn in mourning. Blue is worn when the mourning season 
is half over. Red is the color worn on festal occasions. Brides 
weep and wail, and pull out their eyebrows. The soles of shoes 
are whitened, whereas ours are blackened. Tea is drunk in all 
places and at all hours ; the Chinese never drink cold water. Tea 
is served without sugar or cream. These people never use butter 
or cheese or milk, and are disgusted when foreigners do. It is not 
unusual to ennoble a man's ancestors. This is done instead of 
ennobling his descendants. Sir Robert Hart's ancestors for five 
generations were ennobled on account of his services. China has 
no hereditary aristocracy, or almost none. Men quarrel about one 
cash. Angry words are heard, accompanied with violent and 
threatening gestures. Meanwhile their eyes are in a fine frenzy 
rolling. You expect that bones will be broken and perhaps two 
valuable lives taken. But no. These men were talking to keep up 
pretenses. The storm blew over and the whole affair was as blood- 
less as a French duel. A Chinese will not admit that there is any 
limit to his information. He has an answer for every question. 
The Classics contain all truth. There is no need of any other book. 
A Western man will admit that there are some things that he does 
not know; a Chinese never does. He can not afford, as a citizen of 
the Middle Flowery Kingdom, not to be omniscient. On New Year's 
Day all debts are settled. The kitchen god is burned. Before this 
is done his lips are smeared ' v with molasses that he ma} 7 tell a sweet 
tale. Men plow with a cow and an ass; or with a cow, an ox, or an 
ass; or with a cow and two asses, or with a mule, an ass, and a calf. 
Much of the life of the people is out of doors. You see cobblers, 
tinners, blacksmiths, druggists, washerwomen, and caterers, plying 
their vocations on the streets. Books are different from ours. 
The first page is where we have the last. The lines run from the 
top of the page to the bottom. They begin at the right hand. 
Portals are erected to women who refused, marriage that they might 
wait on their parents, or to women who committed suicide on 
account of a husband's death. If a son kills a parent he is put to 
death and the house torn down. His nearest neighbors are pun- 
ished, his school-master is put to death, the magistrate of the dis- 
trict suffers, and the governor of the province goes down in rank. 
Many other curious things could be mentioned, but these are suffi- 
cient. In many respects they resemble the Anglo-Saxons. In their 



.SOME CURIOUS THINGS IN CHINA 185 

fancied superiority, in the energy and ability to adapt themselves to 
their environment, in their love of money and power to make and 
keep it, in their sins and sorrows and need of a Savior, in their 
capacity to accept Jesus Christ as Savior and Lord, and to be jus- 
tified, and sanctified, and glorified through him, they make it evi- 
dent that they belong to the same race as ourselves. 



XXIX. 
CHINA AND THE CHINESE. 

Among the nations China ranks third in area and second in pop- 
ulation. She is surpassed in area by the British and Russian 
Empires; in population, by the British only. China proper has an 
area of 2,000,000 square miles. That is to say, she is equal in size 
to all the States east of the Mississippi, with Texas, Arkansas, Mis- 
souri and Iowa added. Including Manchuria and her colonial pos- 
sessions, China has an area of nearly 5,000,000 square miles. Her 
coast line is 4,400 miles in length. Three great river systems drain 
the country. These are the Yangtsze, the Yellow, and the Pearl. 
She has mountains covered with perpetual snow, wide and sandy 
plains, and fertile valleys. In size, in position, and in her water 
courses, China is not unlike the United States. The mineral 
resources are varied and abundant. Thus far they have not been 
developed on a large scale. A goodly part of the land yields two 
crops a year; certain parts yield three. The principal products are 
rice, cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, wheat, millet, corn, tea, sweet 
potatoes, beans, garlic, peas, turnips, grapes, peaches, oranges, 
bananas, apricots, watermelons and peanuts. The chief articles of 
export are tea and silk. The Chinese are constantly fertilizing 
their fields. Nothing is allowed to go to waste. They collect 
bones, soot, hair in barber-shops, exploded fire-crackers, sweepings 
of the streets, mud from the bottom of canals, offal of every kind, 
and the sewage of cities. As a result, soil that has been under culti- 
vation thousands of years is as productive as it ever was. 

China proper is divided into eighteen provinces. These are sub- 
divided into prefectures, and these again into districts. Each 
division has its own capital. A provincial capital has a population 
of about 1,000,000; a prefectural capital a population from 100,000 
to 800,000, while district capitals may have only a few thousand. 
These capitals are all walled cities. According to Nevius, there are 
1,700 of these in the Empire. In the great cities there are Tartar 
garrisons. The Tartars live in a part of the city walled off from 
the Chinese part. The Tartars are all pensioned, and are regarded 
as bulwarks of the reigning house. 

186 



CHINA AND THE CHINESE 187 

It is believed now by scholars that the Chinese came from 
ancient Elam. Before Abram left Chaldea to go west, the ances- 
tors of the present Chinese went east, and in course of time settled 
in the land in which they now dwell. It may have taken centuries 
to drive out or to absorb the aboriginal races and to appropriate 
their territories. If this view is correct, China saw the rise of 
Assyria and Babylon, of Persia, Greece and Rome. The nations of 
Europe are of yesterday as compared with her. There have been 
twenty-four dynasties, but the people and their institutions are sub- 
stantially now what they were two thousand years before the birth 
of Christ. An empire containing one-fourth of the human family, 
an empire incomparably the oldest in existence, challenges the 
attention of all students of history. 

In theory the government is an absolutism. The Emperor is the 
Son of Heaven. There is no Congress or Parliament representing 
the people. Two councils give advice to the Emperor. Under 
these councils are the Six Boards. These relate to civil office, reve- 
nue, rites, war, punishment and works. Beside the Central Gov- 
ernment in Peking, there are a dozen Viceroys. These rule over 
one or two provinces. They levy armies, own and control gun- 
boats, coin money, and do other things that are usually done by the 
supreme power. There are under the Viceroys Governors of prov- 
inces and other officers, and under these Prefects, and under the 
Prefects Hsiens. While the Emperor is the Son of Heaven, he is 
under laws which cannot be broken or evaded. The people know 
their rights, and, though they are patient under oppression and 
unjust taxation, they have more than a score of times risen against 
their superiors and changed the dynasty. There is no office below 
the throne to which the humblest child in the Empire may not 
aspire. There is no aristocracy in China save that of learning. 
Those who win the prizes in the competitive examinations, and they 
only, fill all the offices. The Emperor cannot appoint his favorites 
to these positions. 

The Chinese prize learning above everything else. The scholars 
occupy the first place. After them come the farmers, the artisans, 
and the traders, and in this order. The Mandarins dress in silk, 
and are housed in palaces. When they go out they have an impos- 
ing retinue. The people gladly make way for their chairs to pass. 
The man in the chair was not born in wealth. He was not pro- 
moted by the caprice of the Emperor. He rose to that position by 
his own exertions. He passed the examinations, and now there is 
nothing that he cannot do. He can lead armies, direct navies ,. 



188 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

administer justice, supervise public works, sit in either of the 
Councils, and give advice to the Son of Heaven. These examina- 
tions are a unique feature of Chinese life. Once a year in each dis- 
trict an examination is held. About one in a hundred gets a 
degree. Once in three years those who won the first degree repair 
to the provincial capital for a far more searching examination. Of 
these again about one per cent, are successful. The next year in 
Peking those who won the second degree are examined a third 
time. Those that take the third degree are chosen by lot to fill the 
first vacancies that occur. Those that win the third degree com- 
pete for positions in the Hanlin Academy. This contest is under 
the eye and direction of the Emperor. About twenty of the best 
are selected for this honor. Out of the twenty that win this prize 
the best is appointed laureate. He is the one bright consummate 
flower of the nation. He is the ornament of the reigning dynasty. 
Dr. Martin says: "Provinces contend for this prize. The town 
that gave birth to the victor is noted forever. Swift heralds bear the 
tidings of his triumph, and the hearts of the people leap at their 
approach. We have seen them enter a humble cottage, and amidst 
the flaunting of banners and the blare of trumpets announce to its 
startled inmates that one of their relations had been crowned by the 
Emperor as the laureate of the year." The daughter of a laureate 
has been deemed worthy of being an Empress. In the same hall 
grandfathers, fathers and sons may compete. Men have succeeded 
when they were past fourscore. The prize is worth a life of study 
and toil. 

While the Chinese prize learning, it is not what we mean by 
learning. They are not examined in arithmetic, grammar, chemis- 
try, physics, general history, or natural science. In their examina- 
tions the competitors are to write essays and poems on some sen- 
tence in the Classics. They must write in a certain style to win the 
prize. One may be able to repeat the Classics word by word, and be 
able to write beautifully on a sentiment found in them, and know 
little else. With all their love of learning they are not well 
informed. It is not long since Chinese maps gave almost all the 
land on the globe to their own country. England, Holland, Portu- 
gal, France, Germany and India were small islands running from 
north to south. Africa and the Americas had no place. China was 
1,500 miles square. It was bordered by the four seas. All other 
nations were tributary to the Son of Heaven. Japan is spoken of 
as " a rebel." 

The Chinese are industrious and economical. They work as 




1. Dr. J. C. Kerr, Canton, China. 2. Pandita Ramabai, Poona, India. 

3. Francis Xavier. 



THREE DISTINGUISHED MISSIONARIES. 



CHINA AND THE CHINESE 189 

hard and live on as little as any other people. They gather grass 
on the hills and by the roadside and bean-stalks for fuel. As mer- 
chants they are very successful. They seek to please their patrons. 
They have learned that honesty is the best policy. Three-fourths 
of the business of Shanghai is done by them. In Hong-Kong, 
Singapore, and all through the Archipelago, the Chinese are taking 
the lead. The recent legislation in Australia and America, if not a 
confession of defeat, is not a paean of victory. Sir Frederick Bruce 
said that Chinese statesmen were equal to any he ever met in any 
capital in Europe. Dr. Williamson said: "The Chinese are the 
imperial race in the far East." Moreover, they are a literary peo- 
ple. Their works of history are numbered by the thousand. No 
one, I think, can be long with the Chinese and despise their mental 
ability. They are not an inferior race. 

The Chinese are a religious people. Temples, pagodas and 
shrines are everywhere seen. The boats on the river, the kitchens 
and the wells have their deities. China has 300,000 temples, 4,000,- 
000 idols, and spends $400,000,000 a year on idolatry. There are 
three religious systems, namely, Confucianism, Taoism and Bud- 
dhism. Confucius was born B. C. 551. He was a transmitter, not 
a maker. He emphasized the Five Relations. These are the rela- 
tions of emperor and officer, father and son, husband and wife, 
elder and younger brother, and friends. He had nothing to sa3 r 
about man's relation to God. The Chinese say, " Worship the 
gods, as if the gods were there; but if you worship them not, the 
gods don't care." He said little about the future. " We do not 
know life, how then can we know death?" When asked for one 
word that would serve as a rule of life, he said, " Is not reciprocity 
such a word? Do not do to others what you would not have them 
to do to you." Confucius has a temple in every city and a tablet 
in every school in China. In the temples 62,000 pigs, sheep and 
rabbits, and 2,700 pieces of silk are annually sacrificed to him. 
Taoism is a superstitious system. It seeks the philosopher's stone 
and the elixir of life. It teaches that the heart is to be cultivated 
by retirement, austerity and meditation. The body is to be disci- 
plined by sitting cross-leggedV swallowing saliva, rubbing the flesh, 
rolling the eyes, and gnashing the teeth. The elixir of life is found 
by collecting all the materials and putting them to boil in a pot 
over a fire not too hot or too cold, for eighty-one years. The 
Taoists select lucky places for graves and the exact time to bury 
the dead. They understand all about the Fung /Shut. If evil 
befalls a family, it is because the dead are unhappy. They were 



190 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

not buried properly or they are in the chamber of horrors in pur- 
gatory. In either case, the priest, for a consideration, will insure 
their comfort and a return of prosperity. The Chinese are full 
of superstition. In time of drought they will pray to a snake. 
At other times they worship the fox, the weasel, the hedgehog and 
the rat. To them the air is full of evil spirits. They believe that 
these spirits can cut off their tails. The priests furnish charms 
that will protect them against this loss. Bits of paper and bags 
of beans can be changed into soldiers. Foreigners can see mill- 
ions of miles into the sky and far into the earth. With the eyes 
of the Chinese as medicine, they can turn lead into silver. Bud- 
dhism came to China A. D. 63. Buddhism proposes to give peace 
by eradicating desire. It teaches the transmigration of souls. 
One may rise to a Buddha or sink into an animal. A woman 
can enter heaven only by being born again a man. There are tem- 
ples of the three religions. Chinese are Conf ucianists, Taoists and 
Buddhists at the same time, and feel no sense of contradiction or 
incongruity. 

The principal religion of China is ancestral worship. The 
Emperor only can worship the Supreme God. The people have 
nothing to do with that; they worship their ancestors. Confucius 
taught them that of all the actions of men there is none greater 
than filial piety. They revere and obey their parents while living. 
There is no stigma so dreaded as that of "undutiful." When 
they are dead their children are to worship them. Man has three 
souls. One goes into the ancestral tablet, one goes into the coffin, 
and the third goes into the spirit world. Worship is carried on 
before the tablet, at the grave, and in the temples. The spirit 
needs clothes, food, houses, money, candles and incense. These 
are offered. Excepting the food, the other articles are burned. 
It is the duty of the eldest son to carry on this worship. The 
greatest of all calamities is to have no son. Parents seek to pro- 
vide against this. They arrange for the early marriage of their 
children. If no sons are born in a reasonable time, men take 
secondary wives. It is this, the worship of ancestors, that makes 
the Chinese prefer sons to daughters. Girls are of little value. 
Frequently no name is given them. In cases of infanticide the 
victims are all girls. A daughter never inherits property. A bride 
is a dove because of her quietness and stupidity. There is no rea- 
son why her husband should mourn in case she dies; he can get 
another within a week. The ancestral temple is the most sacred 
spot on earth. Here repose the spirits of one's ancestors. Here 



CHINA AND THE CHINESE 191 

liis own spirit will repose for all time. If he dies in a foreign land 
his body is brought back. Otherwise, his spirit will be unfed, 
unclothed, unhoused, and wander miserably on the Plutonian shore 
forever. So important a thing is ancestral worship that the selec- 
tion of an heir to the throne is regulated by it. The heir must in 
no case be older than his predecessor. The elder cannot worship 
the younger. Dr. Yates estimates that the Chinese spend $150,- 
000,000 a year on this worship. Great quantities of gilt money are 
made and sold. It is exposed in every store. Dr. Yates holds that 
ancestral worship is the chief obstacle to the spread of Chris- 
tianity. 

It is said of the Chinese that their literature is pure. They do 
not sanctify vice as was done in Corinth and Phenice. This does 
not mean that they are a pure people, but it does mean that their 
standard is high. They do not call evil good. There are things 
done in secret that are not to be reported in public. They do not 
regard lying as we do. Tell a man from the West that he lies, and 
he will regard it as an insult. Tell a Chinese that he has a fatal 
facility for lying and he will take it as a compliment. As well 
expect to insult him by telling him that he is an inveterate joker. 
Polygamy is found in the higher circles. There is very little of it 
among the working classes, except where the wife has borne no 
sons. But even then there is only one lawful wife. The children 
of the secondary wife are her children, and she is the servant of 
her mistress, even as Hagar was the servant of Sarah. Dr. Will- 
iams says that polygamy is supported by the wives themselves. 
They like to have subordinates to wait on them and to do their 
work. The officials are polygamists as a rule. They are a sensual 
and unclean lot. All the daughters of the Manchu officers pass 
before the Emperor once in three years. He selects those that 
please him for his harem. The Chinese are a race of gamblers. 
They begin in infancy and keep at it till they die. They stake 
their property, their liberty, their wives and children for genera- 
tions on a throw of the dice. 

Above all other peoples, the Chinese are conservative. They 
do not believe the words of Tennyson : 

" The old order changes, giving place to the new, 
And God fulfills himself in many ways, 
Lest one good custom should corrupt the world." 

They love the ancient. They seek the old paths and walk 
therein. So railways are opposed. One was built by foreigners. 
The Chinese bought it and tore it up. So in a land of abundance 



192 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

3,000,000 starve every year. Transportation by donkeys takes time 
and costs immensely. The railway would put an end to famines. 
Troops could be moved rapidly. As it is, a war is over before some 
of the troops reach the field. China has one railway of some 
length and two or three other short ones, and is talking of building 
more. But the conservatives shake their heads and give their voice 
against them. China has no imperial post-office. There are hun- 
dreds of private postal systems. They are managed as express 
companies are at home. The Customs service forwards letters to 
open ports in China, but does not handle foreign mail. So it comes 
to pass that it takes six or eight months for letters to cross China. 
Strangest of all, China has no free public schools. There are a 
few technical and naval and military schools, but no provision is 
made for primary education. The government indirectly encour- 
ages education, but leaves the people to employ such teachers and 
to adopt such courses as they prefer. As a result, one man in 
twenty and one woman in ten thousand can read intelligently. 
This is Dr. Martin's estimate. There are thirty-one papers and 
periodicals. Of these sixteen are secular and fifteen religious. 
The roads are poor. Goods are carried in boats or on camels or 
mules or donkeys or on wheelbarrows. Men are carried in chairs 
or in mule-litters. 

Dr. Williams says that a thousand years ago China was the most 
refined nation on the globe. Other nations have made progress; 
she has gone backward. Why? His explanation is that China has 
not the Bible. That makes the difference. China has ethics, but 
her system of ethics has no root in religion. The learned men are 
either " pantheists or atheists." They worship no personal God 
and are amenable to none. One would think the Mandarins would 
be the best men in the nation; they are the worst. With few ex- 
ceptions they are devoid of patriotism. Officialism is corrupt from 
top to bottom. Men draw pay for a thousand soldiers and have a 
hundred enlisted. They take pay for services that are not ren- 
dered. Ashes are sold for gunpowder. Shells are filled with peas 
instead of steel. There are no checks upon official corruption. 
Even literary degrees can be bought. China needs the Gospel. 
She has tested the Three Religions for millenniums, and has found 
them insufficient. Like the woman in the Gospel, she has spent 
her money, but has grown worse instead of better. There is one 
and only one source of help. The Emperor is asking the old ques- 
tion, " What must I do to be saved?" The old answer is appropri- 
ate, " Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ and thou shalt be saved, 
and thine house." 



XXX. 

FROM HONG-KONG TO CALCUTTA. 

I left Hong-Kong on the Preussen. This is a German ship. 
She runs between Hamburg and Japan, calling at important points 
on the way. The Germans are securing a* goodly share of the busi- 
ness of the far East. Their success is alarming those who have 
borne the heat and burden of the day. They are civil and obliging, 
and give strict attention to business. Their ships are large and 
comfortable. The stewards have organized a band, and play every 
day and night. This is a popular feature. The music breaks the 
monotony of the voyage and is a real refreshment. For several 
days the sea was rough. Quite a number of the passengers were 
sick. All sorts of remedies were suggested. One of the so-called 
infallible cures is lager beer. One man never knew it to fail. It 
did not help in this case. A victim of sea-sickness drenched him- 
self with beer, but had to throw it up in a few minutes. Another 
suggested that if the sick man would lie down with his feet higher 
than his head, he would find relief at once. Dr. Butchart, of Nan- 
kin, says he knows of one sure cure, and only one, namely, the 
shade of a tree. For those like me, who are never sick, the roll- 
ing of a ship is rather pleasant. It is especially so at night. 

" Rocked in the cradle of the deep, 
I lay me down in peace to sleep; 
Secure I rest upon the wave, 
For thou, O Lord, hast power to save." 

Our first call was at Singapore. The island on which this city 
stands was bought from the Sultan of Johore by the British in 1819. 
At that time the population numbered only two thousand ; now it 
numbers two hundred thousand. Singapore is at the extreme south- 
ern portion of Asia. The Malay Peninsula extends from Burma to 
Singapore. In addition to Singapore, the British own Penang, the 
Province of Wellesley, Malacca and Dindings. Six of the native 
States are under British protection. Wherever the British rule 
the people prosper. In the parts of the Peninsula under their con- 
trol the population numbers four hundred to the square mile; 
where they are not in control the population numbers only nine to 

13 193 



194 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the square mile. The roads and buildings, and aqueducts, and 
dock, and the ships in Singapore are sufficient to show that the 
natives are not in authority. They care for none of these things. 

Singapore is a free port. People are here from all parts of the 
globe. On the streets one sees Chinese, Malays, Japanese, Hin- 
doos, Sikhs, Madrasees, Parsees, Negroes, Armeniaus, Burmese, 
Egyptians, Siamese, Singhalese, Tamils, Jews, Arabs and Euro- 
peans. The Chinese predominate. They number one hundred and 
twenty-one thousand. They have the bulk of the land and wealth 
and business. There are several Chinese in Singapore worth their 
millions. Singapore is within eighty miles of the equator. The 
mercury never registers higher than ninety-four degrees in the 
shade. The weather is not so hot as one would expect, but it is hot 
enough. There are no seasons. Singapore is the land where eter- 
nal summer reigns. The perennial heat enervates the system. The 
natives are not as industrious as in colder climates. They need 
little clothing. Food is abundant and cheap. Dr. Oldham says a 
man can build a house on the bank of the river. He can sit at 
home, and out of his opened window catch all the fish he needs. 
The cocoanut tree never fails to yield a crop. Tapioca grows wild, 
and is so cheap that it does not pay to cultivate it. When urged to 
work and rise in the scale, the native shakes his head and says, "It 
is difficult." So it comes to pass that the Chinese come in from 
the North and take possession. In a few generations they may 
"become as languid as those whom they have displaced. I have 
heard that bees taken to the West Indies work hard the first year, 
but finding the flowers in bloom all the time they cease storing up 
honey for a winter that never comes. 

Missionary work is carried on in Singapore by the Church of 
England, the Catholics, the English Presbyterians, the Plymouth 
Brethren, and the Methodist Episcopal Society. The Church of 
England has a fine cathedral and a strong staff of workers. They 
preach and teach. The Catholics have all the methods that they 
have found useful elsewhere. The Methodists have a college for 
boys. They have six hundred enrolled. The Chinese gave $6,200 
to establish this school. The government grants and the tuition 
fees pay all expenses. In the classes I saw Chinese, Tamils, Malays, 
Eurasians, Javanese and Arabs. The boarding school has forty 
inmates. The Principal of the college and several American teach^ 
ers eat at the same table with the boys. The Deaconesses have two 
hundred girls in the school under their care. In their Sunday- 
schools there are over five hundred enrolled. This society has a 



FROM HONG-KONG TO CALCUTTA 195 

dispensary. The physician in charge was an army surgeon. He 
resigned his position to take up this work. Another efficient worker 
had been one of the Royal Engineers. In connection with this work 
is a mission press. While I was there a wealthy young man from 
New York joined the mission. He proposes to start a Medical 
Training School, and to support himself and the work. 

Dr. Gregory, of China, went with me to see the summer palace of 
the Sultan of Johore. It is the most magnificent building I have ever 
seen. Much of the plate is of solid gold. Polished ivory tusks are 
found in all directions. The vases are of the costliest material and 
the most exquisite workmanship. The tapestries are of silk and gold. 
It would be interesting to know how this magnificence was paid for. 
The people are heavily taxed to support this display. In the East 
the good things belong to the few. The many have few comforts 
and no luxuries. The money invested in this palace would have 
established a score of colleges and libraries. The Sultan, we were 
told, was papular in his time. He was fond of fast horses and 
delighted in sports of all kinds. But if he ever did anything to 
uplift his people, we did not hear of it. In the company of Prof. 
Wood, I visited the Tau Tock Seng Hospital. This was more to 
me than the palace. A rich Chinese gave $7,000 to found a hos- 
pital for the diseased of all countries. His son gave $3,000 more. 
The hospital has six hundred beds. The government grants amount 
to $40,000 a year. This man was not a Christian, but he was 
prompted to this by what he saw among Christians. In Canton 
the Chinese have built hospitals and dispensaries because of Dr. 
Kerr's work in that city. Buddhist monks preach to the patients 
as Christian men preach in Dr. Kerr's chapel. The leaven is at 
work, and no power can arrest it till the whole lump is leavened. 

There are a number of places of considerable importance not 
far from Singapore. Of these the following deserve mention: 
Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Celebes, the Philippines, the Moluccas, and 
Siam. The Philippines belong to Spain. Part of Borneo belongs 
to Great Britain. Siam is an independent power. The other places 
named belong to the Netherlands. These are all large places. 
Sumatra has an area of 160,000 square miles; Java, 50,000; Borneo, 
203,000; Celebes, 72,000; the Philippines, 114,326; the Moluccas, 
42,000;. Siam, 250,000. The Dutch East Indies have an area of 
719,000 square miles, and a population of 29,000,000. The Philippines 
are as large as all Italy. Borneo is larger than Great Britain and 
Ireland. It is said that if Borneo was as densely populated as Java 
it would have 125,000,000, while all Malaysia would contain 



196 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

250,000,000. These islands produce sugar, tea, coffee, rice, oranges,, 
bananas, mangosteens, the durian, the king of fruits, pineapples, 
cocoanuts, pepper, hemp, tobacco, tapioca, cocoa, spices and trop- 
ical fruits of all kinds. Bishop Thoburn says one sago palm will 
supply a man with food for a whole year, and one such tree can be 
bought for three dollars. The Malay Peninsula has enough tin in 
its mines to supply the world. Sumatra is the richest of the islands 
in minerals. Borneo has minerals and timber. 

Considerable missionary work has been done in this part of the 
world. The Dutch societies are at work in the Dutch Colonies. 
They report sixty-seven missionaries and 236,604 converts. The 
Church of England is at work in all parts of the Empire. Other 
societies are helping to turn these people from Mohammedanism and 
Buddhism to the living God. In Siam the Presbyterian Board has 
a staff of thirteen ordained missionaries, four physicians, seventeen 
lay workers, and thirty-three native helpers. They report twelve 
churches, 1,114 converts, twenty-one schools, 641 pupils, four hos- 
pitals and two mission presses. The Catholics are everywhere. 
They came to this field 300 years ago. The Portuguese were the 
first to explore these parts and to settle in them. The Pope gave 
the king all the land he might discover in the East. The king was 
as eager to build up the church as he was to add to his possessions. 
Every ship carried some missionaries to these lands. Francis 
Xavier did much of his work in the Archipelago. " He pillowed 
his head on a coil of ropes and ate what the sailors discarded; 
and there was not a seaman in that laboring vessel, there was 
not a soldier in that crowded troop-ship, who did not inwardly 
recognize the great soul that glowed beneath those squalid 
garments; no outward humiliation could conceal that knightly 
spirit, no sickness and suffering could quench the fire of that 
ardent genius." He rebuked sin; he added great numbers to 
the churches. The Philippines are under Spanish control. The 
Catholics only are allowed to work there. The British and Foreign 
Bible Society has its main office in Singapore. The agent told me 
that last year they sold 75,000 copies, of the Scriptures. These 
sales were made in forty-two different languages. 

Leaving Singapore and passing through the Straits of Malacca, 
we came to Penang. This city is nearly as large as Singapore. 
The same missionary societies are at work in both. We were there 
on Christmas day. The government offices and the foreign busi- 
ness houses were closed. The Chinese and Malays were at work, as 
if they had never heard of the Christmas carol sung by the heavenly 




1 Imtt "~~~ 



„li',^ 



BUNGALOW IN HURDA, INDIA. 




BEGGARS IN HURDA, INDIA. 



FROM HONG-KONG TO CALCUTTA 197 

host over Bethlehem. Dr. West, of the Methodist Mission, took us 
to the Public Gardens and told us about the work. There are five 
hundred pupils in the three schools under the control of the Meth- 
odists. After taking on board one hundred and thirty thousand 
eocoanuts and some other freight, we left Penang for Burma. In 
three days we were in Rangoon. Burma is as large as Texas and 
Massachusetts, and has a population of eight millions. The popu- 
lation is made up of forty different races. The four distinct peo- 
ples are the Burmese proper, Peguans, Shans and Karens. There 
are thirty tribes of these jungle people. They all worship evil 
spirits. The Burmese are called the Irish of the East. They like 
gay clothing and are a gay people. They believe that sufficient 
unto the day is the food thereof. As a result, Chinese and Hin- 
doos are doing most of the work. Teak and rice are the chief arti- 
cles of export. Rangoon has doubled its population in ten years. 
Since Burma was annexed to India there has been a degree of pros- 
perity unparalleled in the history of the country. Burma is a great 
Buddhist stronghold. The fame of her pagodas has filled the 
world. There is one in Rangoon that is three hundred and seventy- 
five feet high. It is made of brick, and is heavily plated with gold. 
Judson reached Burma in 1813. Felix Carey and two others had 
been there before him. They left the field to him. For seven 
years he preached in Rangoon before he found any to believe his 
message. He was arrested and thrust into prison, and kept there 
for nearly two years. Part of the time he wore five pairs of fetters. 
Of his wife it is said that she followed him from prison to prison, 
ministering to his wants, trying to soften the hearts of his keepers, 
to mitigate his sufferings, interceding with government officials or 
with members of the royal family. For a year and a half she thus 
exercised herself, walking miles in feeble health, in the darkness of 
the night, or under a noonday sun, much of the time with a babe in 
her arms. She died in her youth, while her husband was at the 
capital acting as an interpreter between the king and the British. 
Years went on, and the work began to prosper. In seventeen 
years the whole Bible was translated. Native evangelists went out 
and preached with marvelous power and success. Judson lived to 
see 20,000 won to the faith. Some people came to him and said, 
" Sir, we have seen a writing that tells of an eternal God. Are you 
the man that gives away such writings? If so, please give us one, 
for we want to know the truth before we die." Others came from 
the interior and asked, "Are you Jesus Christ's man? Give us a 
writing that tells us about Jesus Christ." Others came from the 



198 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

borders of Siam and China, and said, "Sir, we hear that there is an 
eternal hell. We are afraid of it. Do give us a writing that will 
tell us how to escape it." The most successful work was done 
among the Karens. These people were more noble than the 
Burmese, in that they received the truth with all readiness of mind. 
Mr. Boardman did his work among the Karens. After his death 
his wife took his place, "proclaiming Christ to the inquirers, con- 
ducting schools, and making long tours, often in drenching rains, 
through wild mountain passes, over swollen streams and deceitful 
marshes, among the craggy rocks and tangled shrubs of the 
jungle." She translated "Pilgrim's Progress," several tracts,, 
twenty of the best hymns, four volumes of Scripture questions for 
Sunday-schools. She learned the language of the Peguans, and 
superintended the translation of the New Testament and the princi- 
pal Burmese tracts into it. Several years after the death of his 
first wife, Dr. Judson was married to Mrs. Boardman. Her health 
failing, it was decided that she should visit America. He accompa- 
nied her as far as the Isle of France, and then returned to his 
work. She wrote at the time: 

"We part on this green islet, love — 
Thou for the Eastern main, 
I for the setting sun, love, 
Oh, when to meet again? 

"My heart is sad for thee, love, 
For lone thy way will be ; 
And oft thy tears will fall, love, 
For the children and for me. 

"The music of thy daughter's voice 
Thou'lt miss for many a year ; 
And the merry shout of the elder boys 
Thou'lt list in vain to hear. 

"My tears fall fast for thee, love, 
How can I say Farewell ! 
But go ; thy God be with thee, love, 
Thy heart's deep grief to quell. 



"Yet my spirit clings to thee, love, 
Thy soul remains with me; 
And oft will hold communion sweet 
O'er the dark and distant' sea. 

" But who can paint our mutual joys 
When, all our wanderings o'er, 
We both shall clasp our infants three, 
At home on Burma's shore ! 

" But brighter shall our raptures glow, 
On yon celestial plain, 
When the loved and parted here below 
Meet ne'er to part again. 






FROM HONG-KONG TO CALCUTTA 199 

"Then gird thine armor on, love, 
Nor faint thou on the way, 
Till Boodh shall fall, and Burma's sons 
Shall own Messiah's sway." 

The "farewell" was spoken. They parted to meet on earth no 

more. The ship was obliged to put into St. Helena. Here Mrs. 

Judson died and was buried. The third Mrs. Judson was worthy of 

the other two. She was a poet and an author of note before her 

marriage. "My Indian Bird," written after the birth of her first 

child, contains the following lines: 

"There's not in Ind a lovelier bird ; 

Broad earth owns not a happier nest ; 
O God, thou hast a fountain stirred, 
Whose waters never more shall rest ! 

"The pulse first caught its tiny stroke, 

The blood its crimson hue from mine; — 
This life, which I have dared invoke, 
Henceforth is parallel with Thine. 

"A silent awe is in my room, 
I tremble with delicious fear ; 
The future with its light and gloom, — 
Time and eternity are here. ' ' 

The Baptists have now one hundred and forty-eight missionaries 
in Burma, and six hundred and one native preachers. They have 
six hundred churches with a total membership of thirty-three thou- 
sand three hundred and thirty-seven. They have four hundred 
and fifty-six schools, with twelve thousand two hundred and ninety 
pupils enrolled. Near Rangoon they have a Theological Seminary, 
with two hundred students in it preparing to preach. This is one 
of the largest schools of its kind in the world. They have a college 
in Rangoon. Other societies have entered the field in recent years. 
Dr. Smith, of the Methodist Church, told me that while they have 
some work among the Burmese and Tamils and Telugus, their work 
is chiefly in English. The Burman Church is Judson's monument. 
He labored, and others have entered into his labors. 

All through the East one is surprised to see so many Eurasians. 
These are the children of European and Asiatic parents. Some of 
these are strikingly handsome. Coming out of a church in Singa- 
pore, I asked the pastor concerning the future of Eurasian girls. 
He sighed deeply and said, "Their future is very dark." I asked 
him if he meant that respecting those that were cultivated and 
attractive. He said that the comlier they are in person and the 
sweeter they are in disposition, the more they are sought after for 
immoral purposes. Better for such girls if they had never been 



200 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

born. In America we condemn the Chinese because they do not 
bring their women with them and establish homes. The Chinese 
are not the only people that do that. There are thousands of men 
in the far East who are doing the very thing for which we condemn 
the Chinese. Three days and a half after leaving Rangoon we 
reached Calcutta, the capital of the Empire of India. 




1. Miss Hattie Judson. 
3. Mrs. H. L. Jackson. 



2. Dr. C. S. Durand. 

4. Miss Mary Thompson. 



XXXI. 

INDIA AND HER PEOPLES. 

The outline of India resembles a triangle. The Himalayas form 
the northern boundary. Cape Comorin, the extreme southern 
point, is within a few degrees of the equator. The western coast 
is washed by the Sea of Arabia and the Indian Ocean. The eastern 
coast is washed by the Bay of Bengal. Quetta, on the west, is nine- 
teen hundred miles from the eastern part of Assam. From the 
Himalayas to Cape Comorin the distance is about the same. Burma 
is no part of India. It is separated from it by mountains and by 
barriers of race and language. But Burma has been annexed and 
is now part of the British Empire in India. Ceylon lies to the 
southeast, and, though it is almost joined to India by a bridge of 
islands, it is a crown colony and is independent of the govern- 
ment in Calcutta. Excluding Burma and Ceylon, India has an 
area of 1,587,000 square miles. It is as large as all Europe with- 
out Russia, or as large as that part of the United States east of the 
Rocky Mountains. 

There are three natural divisions. The first is that of the Him- 
alayas. For 1,400 miles this range averages 14,000 feet in height. 
Mount Everest is 29,000 feet above the sea, or twice as high as 
Pike's Peak. The base of the Himalayas averages 150 miles in 
width. The second division stretches from these mountains to the 
Vindhyas, and consists chiefly of three great river systems: that of 
the Indus, that of the Ganges, and that of the Brahmaputra. The 
Indus and Brahmaputra rise north of the mountains ; the Ganges 
rises on the southern side. India is thus watered by streams from 
both sides of the Himalayas. The Indus is 1,800 miles long and 
drains a basin of 372,700 square miles. The basins of the Ganges 
and Brahmaputra are about the same in extent. That part of India 
lying between the Vindhya mountains and Cape Comorin is called 
the Deccan, or Southland. The Western Ghats run down the 
Malabar coast at some distance from the sea. The Eastern Ghats 
run down the Coromandel coast in the same way. These two 
chains of hills unite at the Cape. 

According to Sir William Hunter, India is a continent rather 

201 



202 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

than a single country. He speaks of it as a museum of races dif- 
fering in language and religion. The people may be divided into 
two classes: the Aryans and the non-Aryans. The Aryans belong 
to the same stock as the Greeks, the Romans, the Germans and the 
English. Their ancestors dwelt at one time in tents in Central 
Asia. About the time our forefathers began their migrations west- 
ward towards Europe, it is likely that some members of the same 
family turned their faces and their footsteps in the direction of 
India. No one knows how long ago that was. The Aryans entered 
through, the northwest passes and settled in the valley of the Indus. 
When we first get a glimpse of them they are in the patriarchal 
age. The head of the family is priest and king. The people are 
engaged in feeding cattle and in tilling the soil. The king lives 
very much like the others. He aids in clearing the jungle, tending 
the cattle, and marking the calves. All were bred to arms,so as to 
be able to defend their homes and their crops against the aborig- 
ines. The Aryans were proud of their fair skins and culture, and 
spoke of the people whom they found in the land as "lawless," 
"raw-eaters," " men without language," "without gods," " with- 
out sacrifices," " as gross feeders on flesh." Being better armed 
and better disciplined than the aborigines, they drove them into the 
deserts and hills and jungles. Many were exterminated and many 
more were reduced to slavery. For centuries the Aryans lived in 
what is known now as the Panjab. They advanced as they were 
able till they conquered the whole Ganges Valley. In course of 
time, as they multiplied and felt the need of more land, they ex- 
tended their conquests to the south. They drove the aborigines 
before them as they advanced. There are many non-Aryan peo- 
ples still in existence. Among those in the north are the Santals, 
the Kols, the Ghonds, the Kurkus, the Bhils, and many others. 
Among the aborigines of the south are the Tamils, the Telugus, 
the Kanarese and the Malayalam. The aborigines of the south 
are far more advanced than those in the north. It is said that 
some of the Assam hill-men have no word to express distance by 
miles or any land measure. They reckon the length of a journey 
by the number of plugs of tobacco they chew on the way. 

India has three hundred distinct languages and dialects. The 
Aryans formed a number of kingdoms. These kingdoms had little 
intercourse. As a result they came to use different dialects. 
These dialects are all from the Sanskrit, but they differ as widely as 
Italian and French, or as French and English. Some of the prin- 
cipal dialects are as follows: Hindi, Bengali, Gugerati, Mahratti, 






INDIA AND HER PEOPLES 202 

Panjabi, Sindhi, Oriya. Hindustani is a mixture of Hindi and Per- 
sian and Arabic. It originated in the camps. The Mohammedan, 
soldiers had to find some means of communicating with the people 
whom they conquered. This mongrel language is the result. The 
non-Aryan peoples had little or no intercourse one with the other. 
Living alone they came to use dialects peculiar to themselves. No 
doubt the Aryans and the aborigines borrowed from each other to 
some extent, so that the languages of each have been more or less 
modified by those of the other. While the non- Aryans have always 
been despised by their conquerors, they are superior to them in 
some respects. They are noted for their truthfulness, honesty and 
bravery. They are ready to lay down their lives for those whom 
they serve. They give a more willing ear to the Gospel. The 
greatest victories won in India have been among the aboriginal 
races. 

Gracey speaks of India as the prize of the East. Certain it 
is that India, has been a battlefield for many generations. In the 
time of the Buddha, Darius conquered a part and placed a satrap 
over it to rule in his name. Three centuries before the Christian 
Era, Alexander the Great crossed the Indus in his career of con- 
quest. The Indians, under the leadership of Porus, went out to 
oppose him. They had more troops and elephants and war-char- 
iots. But they were unable to withstand the discipline and the 
matchless strategy of the Greeks. Alexander asked the conquered 
Porus how he wished to be treated. He replied, "Like a king." 
It was the wish of the conqueror to go on and subdue Bengal, but 
his soldiers refused to go farther than the Sutlej. On the death 
of Alexander, India fell to Seleucus. He undertook to complete 
what Alexander had begun. The Bactrian Greeks ruled for a time 
a part of the west and northwest. 

The Mohammedans invaded India early in the eleventh cen- 
tury. Their rule began in 1001 and lasted till 1857. They 
ruled over a large part of the country, but never over all. 
The period of their supremacy did not last much over a century. 
Before that time the Hindus began the work of reconquest. Mah- 
mud of Ghazni invaded India seventeen times. His aim was to get 
the wealth of the country, and to convert the people to Mohammed- 
anism. He smashed the idols and temples and carried away so 
much plunder that Ghazni became the richest city of the age. 
Hindu slaves were sold in the market for two rupees each. In one 
temple there was a huge idol which the Brahmans wished to ran- 
som. The fierce iconoclast said, "I came to destroy, and not to sell 



204 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

idols." He struck the monster with his mace and an immense 
quantity of rubies and pearls and diamonds rolled out. These were 
worth much more than the ransom offered. For nearly two cen- 
turies after this little of the history of India is known. Moham- 
med of Ghor broke the power of Ghazni and undertook to conquer 
and to rule India. At his death in 1206, all north India from the 
delta of the Indus to the delta of the Ganges was subject to him. 
Several dynasties succeeded and ruled Hindustan with varying for- 
tunes. In 1398 Timour sacked Delhi. He was afraid of insurrec- 
tion at home and did not tarry long. Each of his soldiers carried 
away one hundred and fifty captives, and even soldiers' boys got 
twenty slaves apiece. The plunder was immense. Babar, the sixth 
in descent from Timour, was invited to India in 1524. Two years 
later he ascended the throne of Hindustan. He was the first of the 
Mogul Emperors. His son, Humayun, reigned for six years. 
Akbar, his son, was one of the greatest and most famous monarchs 
of his age. He conquered all Hindustan and part of the Deccan. 
He was a skillful soldier and a wise ruler. His son Jahangir, his 
grandson Shah Jahan, and his great grandson Aurangzeb, were three 
of the richest and most powerful monarchs of the world. One of 
them built the Peacock Throne at a cost of $30,000,000, and the 
Taj Mahal at a cost of $10,000,000. Under the last of the three 
the Mogul Empire in India attained its greatest splendor and its 
widest extension. By the time of his death it was rapidly falling 
into decay. There were other emperors, and they maintained a 
show of power until the Sepoy Mutiny, but the Indian peoples were 
gaining strength and were making inroads upon the Empire. The 
Hindus were not capable of self-government. Had they been they 
would have combined and driven out the foreigners. They could 
not unite even in the interest of self-preservation. The Moham- 
medan power was based on pride, hate and lust. It was never 
accepted by the people as a rightful supremacy. The peoples 
groaned under the foreign yoke and never ceased to wish to 
shake it off. 

From ancient times the commerce of India enriched three conti- 
nents. Goods were shipped by the Persian Gulf and by the Red 
Sea. Some found their way into Egypt. Some were carried over- 
land to Alexandria and reshipped to Phoenicia, Palestine, Rome and 
Constantinople. In later times Genoa, Florence, and Venice 
profited by this trade. Six years after Columbus discovered Amer- 
ica, Vasco da Gama sailed around the Cape of Good Hope and 
reached India. The Pope had given the King of Portugal all lands 




ft -'" 




SCHOOL CHAPEL IX Hl'HDA. INDIA. 




BUNGALOW IX MUXGELI, INDIA. 



INDIA AXD HER PEOPLES 205 

that might be discovered in the East, and the right to trade with 
Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia and India. Portugal was mistress of the 
seas and had a monopoly of this trade for a long time. The first 
settlements were made in Goa and Cochin on the west coast. The 
famous Albuquerque 'was sent out as Viceroy. New settlements 
were made in Ceylon, in Bengal, and in Chittagong. The Dutch 
sought to divide the trade of India with Portugal. In the struggle 
that ensued they drove the Portuguese from most of their settle- 
ments and took possession. Portugal still owns the island of Goa, 
and a small strip on the mainland, but her primacy in the East 
vanished like a dream. 

In the year 1600 Queen Elizabeth signed the charter of the East 
India Company. Thirteen years later the Emperor gave them per- 
mission to establish factories in his dominions. The first places 
occupied were Masulipatam on the east coast and Surat on the west. 
Some years after they bought Madras and the site of Calcutta and 
Bombay. The French entered India in 1604. They bought Pondi- 
cherry on the southwest coast and obtained some settlements on the 
Hoogly above Calcutta. Dupleix, the French leader, formed the 
idea of driving the English into the sea and building up a French 
Empire in India. In the war that broke out the French were vic- 
torious for years. They took Madras. They set up triumphal 
arches and felt confident of the complete overthrow of the English. 
At the darkest hour in the Company's history, Clive appeared on 
the scene. His presence and efforts turned the scale. He broke 
the power of the French and practically terminated their career in 
India. They have still a few settlements, but they are insignificant. 
The conquest of India by the English began with the battle of 
Plassey. By the time of the Mutiny, a century later, most of the 
country had been acquired. What began as a factory grew into a 
vice-royalty. After the Mutiny England took India over, and the 
East India Company ceased to exist. There are thirteen provinces 
administered by the representatives of the crown. These provinces 
have an area of 944,992 square miles and a population of 221,- 
000,000. This part is known as British India Proper. There are 
460 Feudatory States. These States have an area of 600,000 square 
miles and a population of 66,000,000. In some of these the ruling 
princes are practically absolute in all that relates to domestic affairs. 
Nevertheless they are vassals of the Paramount Power. British 
residents assist in the administration of the government and keep 
the authorities in Calcutta advised as to what is going on. The 



206 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

relations of these States to the Supreme Power are not uniform. 
All are pledged to good government. 

Max Miiller says: " If I were asked to look over the whole world 
to find out the country most richly endowed with all the wealth, 
power and beauty that nature can bestow — in some parts a very 
Paradise on earth — I should point to India." In this great and 
good land are 287,000,000 of human beings of our own kith and kin. 
Their forefathers and ours dwelt together in Asia, and before their 
dispersion spoke the same tongue and worshiped the same gods. 
With the same Gospel and equal advantages the people of India 
will be as enterprising and as prosperous and as great politically 
and otherwise as their European and American cousins. 



XXXII. 
CALCUTTA AND SERAMPORE. 

Calcutta is on the east bank of the Hoogly, and is eighty miles 
from the sea. When the East India Company opened its first fac- 
tory in Bengal, in 1686, Calcutta was a small village; now it is one 
of the great political and commercial centers of the world. Its 
population numbers 840,000, and its annual commerce amounts to 
$300,000,000. In the business part one sees great public buildings, 
large mercantile and manufacturing establishments, institutions of 
learning, churches and cathedrals, and palatial homes. These 
buildings are > worthy of New York or London. Farther back one 
sees the shops and homes of the natives. These are small and 
mean as a rule. It has been said of Calcutta that it has palaces in 
front and pig-sties in the rear. Gradually, however, the natives 
are being educated and are competing for positions in the postal, 
telegraph, railway and government service. They sit on the bench 
and fill responsible and lucrative positions in the administration. 
They are constantly clamoring for a larger share of the offices. 
The cry is being heard, " India for the Indians." The Europeans 
complain that the natives are crowding them out, and filling posi- 
tions which they once regarded as peculiarly their own. 

The Hoogly is one of the many mouths of the Ganges, and con- 
sequently is a sacred stream. Along the banks thousands bathe 
daily. They plunge under again and again. They wash their 
clothes and their drinking vessels. They drink its waters. This is 
done to cleanse the defilement of sin. There are places where the 
dead are burned. Formerly people were brought to the river to 
die. Their mouths were filled with mud to hasten the process. 
Dead bodies were thrown into the stream. Children were offered 
in sacrifice. The government put a stop to these practices. At the 
edge of the city on the bank of the Hoogly is the famous temple of 
Kali. This goddess is the wife of Shiva, and is the chief object 
of worship in Bengal. She wears a necklace of skulls; for ear- 
rings she has two bodies; her clothing is a girdle made of human 
hands, and her tongue protrudes from her mouth. Her eyes are 
red and her breasts are smeared with blood. It was from this 

207 



208 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

shrine that Calcutta took its name. Farther down the river on the 
opposite side are the Botanical Gardens. The main object of inter- 
est here is a banyan tree that covers a square mile. Farther up 
the river is Henry Martyn's Pagoda. In this he lived for a time 
and studied, and here a number of friends used to meet with him 
to pray. 

Every one has heard of "the Black Hole of Calcutta." The 
Nabob of Bengal attacked the British. Most of the people 
escaped in boats. The garrison could not escape and surrendered. 
The prisoners, 146 in number, were thrust into a cell twenty feet 
square. The next morning only twenty-three were living. Clive 
came from Madras to chastise the Nabob and to recapture the city. 
The battle of Plassey was fought near Calcutta. Clive had only a 
handful of men. He trembled when he thought of the odds and 
the issue. The victory was complete and British prestige was re- 
stored. The battle of Plassey decided the fate of India, as the 
battle of Hastings decided the fate of England in the days of 
William the Conqueror. 

Kiernander, a Dane, was the first missionary in Calcutta. He 
began work in 1758. He established schools and preached to Euro- 
peans and natives. Carey arrived in 1793. For five years he had 
charge of an indigo factory in Malda. Here he studied Bengali, 
translated the New Testament, and preached to the people. In 
1799 Marshman and Ward joined him. Owing to the hostility of 
the Company it was deemed expedient to settle in Serampore. 
Other societies sent out representatives later. The Church Mis- 
sionary Society, the Scottish churches, the London Societj*, the 
Methodist Episcopal and others are now at work in this field. The 
Protestant converts number 2,743; the Catholics, 1,358. The atti- 
tude of the government is very different now from what it was in 
Carey's time. Then orders were issued that j)reaching be discon- 
tinued, and the issue of any publication that had for its object the 
conversion of the natives was strictly prohibited. Now churches 
are open and the Gospel is preached, none forbidding. 

I visited the General Assembly's Institution. This is the first 
college founded by Duff. This illustrious man came to India with 
a new policy. He proposed to reach the brain of India as well as 
the heart and conscience. He proposed to do this through an edu- 
cation saturated with Christianity. He proposed, furthermore, that 
the teaching should be done in English. He began with five boys. 
In a little while he had 800. This institution has now 1,000 pupils 
enrolled. The schools for girls have charge of about the same 




1. Miss Mary Graybiel. 2. Miss Adelaide G. Frost. 

4. Miss Alice Spradlin. 3. Miss Bessie Farrar. . 5. Dr. Rose Oxer. 

MAHOBA, INDIA. 



CALCUTTA AND SEBAMPOBE 209 

number. At the Disruption, Duff and his associates went out. 
This led to the establishment of a second college. This is a pros- 
perous institution, but the attendance now is not quite so large as 
at the other. All the societies at work in Calcutta carry on consid- 
erable educational work. There are government schools of all 
grades. But in religion these schools are neutral. The mission 
schools are carried on with a view to aid the evangelistic work. 
Mr. J. C. White is working among the students. He is an agent 
of the Young Men's Christian Association of America. There are 
6,000 young men in the different colleges in the city. Half of these 
are in government schools. He has oh his books the names of 
1,000 students. They come to him to read the Scriptures and to 
pray or to talk about the Gospel. Hindus of all castes and of no 
caste and Mohammedans are enrolled. He has a reading-room and 
a chapel. Thus far he has not dared to advertise his services,, 
because he is unable to receive all who would come. He has a 
large and fruitful field and is greatly encouraged. 

I attended as many church, services as I could. The pastor .of 
the English Baptist Church showed me the baptistery in which Jud- 
son was baptized. Carey served this church as its minister fourteen 
years. The East India Company gave him a communion set of solid 
silver. This is still in use. Mr. McDonald of the Free Church 
took me to an evangelistic service in the public square. He was 
associated with Duff for some time. A number of Bengalis spoke. 
Some spoke in English and some in Bengali. Several of the speak- 
ers were Duff's pupils. They have his theory and his pronuncia- 
tion. In all the churches there are memorial tablets. They give 
the names and some account of the services rendered. On one of 
these tablets are the words: "Remember them that had the rule 
over you, which spake unto you the Word of God; and considering 
the issue of their life, imitate their faith." In the cathedral there 
is a statue of Heber. He was the happy possessor of all sorts of 
gifts and accomplishments. He had birth, wit, fame, high charac- 
ter and wealth. He gave up all for India. He died in the prime of 
life from overwork. In a poetic letter to his wife he wrote : 

" If thou, my love, wert by my side, 
My babies at my knee, 
How gaily would our pinnace glide 
O'er Gunga's mimic sea. 

" I miss thee at the dawning grey, 
When o'er the deck reclined, 
In careless ease my limbs I lay, 
And woo the cooler wind. 
14 



210 A CIRCUIT OF TEE GLOBE 

" I miss thee when by Gunga's stream 
My twilight steps I guide, 
But most beneath the lamp's pale beam, 
I miss thee by my side. 

" I spread my books, my pencil try, 
The lingering noon to cheer, 
But miss thy kind approving eye, 
Thy meek attentive ear. 

" But when by morn and eve, 

The star beholds me on my knee, 
I feel, though thou art distant far, 
Thy prayers ascend for me." 

Twelve miles from Calcutta is Serampore. I ran over to see 
this famous place. Once it was the chief educational and publish- 
ing center in India. It is so no more. The Baptists have a school 
with a hundred boys enrolled. The principal showed me through 
the building. I saw the pulpit in which Carey preached and the 
chairs used by him and his colleagues. I saw the house in which 
he lived and the room in which he died. Some one said of the 
house that it was built for the angels, so simple is it. The princi- 
pal said: "Perhaps it suited the angels; it is a bit awkward for 
human beings." I looked for Carey's garden, but found no trace 
of it. Shortly before his death he was sad. When asked the rea- 
son he said, "After I am gone, Brother Marshman will turn the 
cows into my garden." Carey was one of the first botanists of his 
age. He took long walks in his garden every morning. Someone 
wrote of him: 

" Thou'rt in our hearts, with tresses thin and gray, 
And eye that knew the Book of Life so well, 
And brow serene, as thou wert wont to stray 
Amidst thy flowers, like Adam ere he fell." 

In his last days, Daniel Wilson, Bishop of Calcutta, came to 
him for his blessing. Duff called. Carey said: "You are just 
buckling on the armor, I am almost out of the fray. Pray for me, 
pray!" When Duff was leaving, the dying saint called him back 
and said: "You have been speaking a great deal about Dr. Carey, 
Dr. Carey, Dr. Carey. I beg of you that, when I am gone, nothing 
may be said of Dr. Carey. Speak, I beg of you, of Dr. Carey's 
Savior." As the sun was setting, we walked out to the little grave- 
yard where "the three mighty ones" are buried. Carey's tomb 
contains his name and the date of his birth and death and the 
words: " A wretched, poor, and helpless worm, on Thy kind arms 
I fall." He was seventy-two when he died, and had been in India 



CALCUTTA AND SEBAMPOBE 211 

forty-one years. Marshman's simple monument has on it the 
words: " They that be wise shall shine as the firmament, and they 
that turn many to righteousness as the stars for ever." Mrs. 
Marshman was a great woman, and deserves honorable mention. 
She taught a school for girls for forty years. She was the pioneer 
in female education in India. 

The hotels of Calcutta in some respects differ from those in 
other cities. Every guest is expected to hire a " boy" to wait on 
him at table and to care for his room. Otherwise he will fare 
badly. As one can be had for sixteen cents a day, the expense is 
not very great. All through the East with Europeans dinner is a 
high function. They appear iu full dress as at a ball. The amount 
of liquor drunk is enormous. There are four glasses at every 
plate. At our table there were over a hundred guests. So far as I 
could see there was only one without his bottle, and only modesty 
keeps me from recording his name. One man dressed like a clergy- 
man drank as much as the rest. These men think they could not 
live without alcohol. Fools and blind! No wonder that the 
Hindus and Mohammedans think Christianity the droughtiest of all 
faiths. I rather like the idea of full dress at dinner, and have 
thought of adopting the spacious shirt-front and the swallow- 
tailed coat on my return. But as for the alcoholic beverages, I 
am unalterably and everlastingly opposed to them. 



XXXIII. 
INDIA AND CHEISTIANITY. 

The Gospel was probably carried to India by merchants or 
colonists. In the second century the converts requested the Bishop 
of Alexandria to send them a Christian teacher. In response to 
their request Pantaenus was selected and sent. He was the head of 
the Christian School in that city, and was the greatest scholar and 
teacher of his time. He had trained Clement and Origen for their 
work, and missionaries for Northern Africa, Ethiopia and Southern 
Asia. After some time spent in confirming the churches in India, 
he returned to Alexandria and resumed work in the College. 

The next missionaries came from Syria by way of Persia. It is 
generally believed that they had adopted the Nestorian heresy. 
Though Nestorius had been deposed and banished on account of his 
views, the community that accepted his teachings flourished and 
sent missionaries in all directions. Their motto was, " Christ for 
the whole world, and the whole world for Christ." One historian 
says of them, "Because their faith was dark, their message muti- 
lated, their intellect darkened, and their life selfish, it was not possi- 
ble for the colonies of Syrian and Persian Christians dispersed on 
its shores to bring India to Christ." 

The Roman Catholics came to India with the Portuguese. They 
undertook to bring the Syrian Christians under the control of the 
Pope. At first they sought to conciliate them. A school for 
Syrian youth was opened in Goa. Those who passed through this 
school were ordained as priests. But the Syrians refused to admit 
them into their churches. Failing in this policy, they resorted to 
sterner measures. One Syrian bishop was shipped to Lisbon to be 
tried as a heretic. Another was sent' to Rome for the same pur- 
pose. The Inquisition sent men to prison and to death, but the 
effort to bring the Syrians to acknowledge the supremacy of the 
Church of Rome failed. The census of 1891 gives the number of 
Syrian Christians as 200,467. 

Xavier landed at Goa in 1542. He had been sent out by the 
King of Portugal. He found vice open and defiant and shame- 
less. He rebuked it in high places and in low places. His method 

212 



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1 s J . F- 







ORPHANAGE IX DAMOH. INDIA. 



p? 




Mrs. McGavran. J. G. McGavran. Miss Stella Franklin. 

Mrs. Rambo. W. E. Rambo. Miss Josepha Franklin. 



MISSIONARIES IN DAJIOH, INDIA. 



INDIA AND CHRISTIANITY 213 

of evangelizing was quite peculiar. He had translations made of 
the Creed, the Lord's Prayer and the Ten Commandments. These 
he committed to memory. Then, with, bell in hand, he went 
through, the villages and called the people together. To these he 
recited the translations, and after each article of the Creed he 
asked them whether they believed. If they assented, he baptized 
them then and there. He wrote: "It often happens to me that my 
hands fail through the fatigue of baptizing, for I have baptized a 
whole village in a single day; and often by repeating so frequently 
the Creed and other things, my voice and strength have failed me." 
The Roman Catholics boasted that they made ten thousand converts 
in Travancore in a single month. The work there has been con- 
tinued ever since. Catholic institutions and Catholic workers are 
found everywhere. In nearly every large city they have a cathe- 
dral. They have a strong staff. They have 619 European mis- 
sionaries and 668 native priests. The converts in British India 
number 1,594,901. 

The Danes were the first Protestants to aid in evangelizing 
India. Ziegenbalg and Plutschau reached Tranquebar in 1706. As 
soon as they explained their object, they were advised to return 
home at once. They were not wanted. They had been sent out by 
the king. Their commission had been sealed with the royal seal. 
That made no difference. These men studied the language; 
preached the Gospel to the people; translated most of the Bible 
into Tamil; prepared books, and did whatever they could for the 
furtherance of the Gospel. In fifty years 11,000 souls were added 
to the church. 

The most distinguished of these early missionaries was Christian 
Frederic Schwartz. He was born in Prussia, educated in Halle, 
and came to India in 1750. Tanjore and Trichinopoli were the 
scenes of his abundant labors. For fifty years he went about doing 
good. The poor and injured looked to him as a friend and advo- 
cate. The great and powerful yielded to him the highest homage 
ever paid in that part of the globe to European virtue. In the 
midst of war in the Carnatic, Hyder Ali said to his officers, "Permit 
the venerable father Schwartz to pass unmolested, and show him 
respect and kindness, for he is a holy man and means no harm to 
my government." Once the Rajah of Tanjore wanted to send him 
on a political mission to Madras. He said, "Padre, I have confi- 
dence in you, because you are indifferent to money." He was 
revered by the natives of every degree and every sect. He lived in 
a room in an old Hindu building, which was just large enough to 



214 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

hold himself and his bed. He ate the food of the natives. His 
salary was about $250 a year. He lived to see 10,000 converts. 
His last words were: "O Lord, hitherto Thou hast preserved me; 
hitherto Thou hast brought me ; and hast bestowed innumerable 
benefits upon me. Do what is pleasing in Thy sight. I commend 
my spirit into Thy hands; cleanse and adorn it with the right- 
eousness of my Redeemer, and receive me into the arms of Thy 
mercy." 

William Carey arrived in Calcutta in 1793. Before the time of 
his arrival, and long after, most of the Europeans in India were 
opposed to missions. Each factory had its chaplain and school- 
master, and provided a decent place for worship. The Sunday 
sermon was followed by gambling, shooting, drinking and racing. 
The directors passed pious resolutions from time to time. They 
went so far as to adopt a form of prayer for their servants. They 
were concerned, so they said, that those Indian nations among 
whom we dwell, seeing our sober and righteous conversation, may 
be induced to have a just esteem for our most holy profession of 
the Gospel. But their agents were hostile, and wished to be let 
alone. Some of the leading officials lived in open sin. They had 
zenanas filled with black beauties, and amused them at times by 
serving their gods. Drunkenness was associated with Christianity 
as an almost necessary accompaniment of conversion. "What! ** 
was the indignant answer of a man to a missionary who urged 
upon him the baptism of his son, "would you have me make him a 
drunkard!" Henry Martyn did not drink. The people said of 
him, "The Dinapore Padre has turned Mussulman." Sir Thomas 
Roe said the natives say, " Christian religion, devil religion; Chris- 
tian much drink; Christian do much wrong; much beat; much 
abuse others." Everything from abroad was labeled Christian. 
Every European was regarded as a disciple of Christ, no matter 
how corrupt he might be in heart, in thought and in character. It 
was in such a community that Carey felt called of Grod to labor. 
At first he was ignored. He was an obscure vagrant, and conse- 
quently beneath official notice. When Marshman and Ward joined 
him, it was deemed prudent to make Serampore their home and 
the center of their operations. There they set up their printing- 
press in the name of the Lord ; from Serampore they sent the Word 
of Life in many languages to the peoples of India. The feelings of 
these three men were expressed in their own words: "Let us give 
ourselves up unreservedly to this glorious cause. Let us never think 
that our time, our gifts, our strength, our families, or even the 



INDIA AND CHRISTIANITY 215 

clothes we wear, are our own. Let us sanctify them all to God and 
his cause. Oh, that he may sanctify us for this service! Let us 
forever shut out the idea of laying up a dowry for ourselves or our 
children. If we are enabled to glorify God with our bodies and 
spirits which are his; our wants will be his care." Carey's salary 
as teacher and translator for the government was 1,250 rupees a 
month. His associates earned large sums in the printing office and 
in other ways. But Carey lived on fifty rupees a month; Marsh- 
man on thirty, and Ward on twenty. Carey needed more than the 
others because of his duties at the college and his appearance at the 
Government House. The rest of their ea'rnings went into the fund 
of the mission. 

At the present time there are over sixty societies at work in 
India. The foreign ordained missionaries number 868; the native 
ordained ministers, 797; the foreign layworkers, 118; the 
native layworkers, 3,491. The foreign women number 711; the 
native women, 3,278. According to the census of 1891, the Prot- 
estant Christians in British India number 648,843. The Gospel is 
preached in chapels, in the bazars, in the homes, and wherever the 
people will listen. Due emphasis is laid upon preaching. Not only 
is the Gospel preached, but the sick are healed. The foreign doc- 
tors number ninety-seven; the native doctors, 168. India has 166 
mission hospitals and dispensaries. A Hindu said to Dr. Clark, 
" There are nine women in our house, and they are all donkeys but 
one; she is sick; come and heal her." He did so. Afterwards he 
asked this man what it was he feared most from the missionaries. 
He answered :" There are your preaching missionaries; we don't 
mind them, we needn't listen to them; and there is your educa- 
tional missionary; we don't mind him, we needn't hear him; there 
are your books and papers, but we need not read them ; what we 
really fear is your Christian women, and we are afraid of your medi- 
cal missionaries, for by your Christian women you win our wives, 
and by your medical missionaries you win our hearts, and when that 
is done what is there for us but to do as you say? " Schools and 
colleges have been opened. In these young men are being trained 
for the work of the ministry. India must be evangelized by 
Indians. The girls in boarding schools number 7,302; the girls in 
day schools, 62,414; the pupils in Sunday-schools, 135,565. In 
addition to what is done in schools, 32,659 women are taught in 
their homes. The credit for the education of women belongs 
entirely to the missionaries. Not only so, but the Bible has been 
translated into most of the languages of India. An Anglo-Indian 



216 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

said: "The Bible is the best of all missionaries. It finds access 
through doors that are closed to the human foot, and into countries 
where missionaries have not yet ventured to go; and above all it 
speaks to the consciences of men with a power that no human voice 
can carry. It is the living seed of God, and soon it springs up, 
men know not how, and bears fruit unto everlasting life." Tracts 
are printed and scattered broadcast. Every method that promises 
good results is tried. 

There is abundant evidence that the labor of the missionaries 
has not been in vain in the Lord. At the present rate of progress 
there will be ten million Christians in India in the next fifty years, 
and two hundred and fifty millions in a century. It may be said 
that the greatest success has been won among the lowest castes. 
This is quite true. It is now as it was in our Lord's time. The 
question then was, "Have any of the rulers or the Pharisees 
believed?" From these despised castes come men who compete 
successfully with the highest castes in every direction — morally, 
socially and intellectually. Under the Gospel these lower castes 
have advanced by leaps and bounds, and have taken their position 
almost in the front ranks of Indian society. Bishop Caldwell said 
that the Christians of India have no need to shrink from compari- 
son with Christians in a similar station of life, and similarly circum- 
stanced, in England or in any other part of the world. Lord 
Lawrence has said, "Notwithstanding all that the English people 
have done to benefit India, the missionaries have done more than 
all other agencies combined." The greatest of modern Indians has 
said, "The spirit of Christianity has already pervaded the whole 
atmosphere of Indian society, and we breathe, think, feel and 
move in a Christian atmosphere. Native society is being roused, 
enlightened and reformed under the influence of Christian educa- 
tion." 

Most, if not all, of the large cities are occupied. But there 
remains much to be done. The great faiths of India are not dis- 
posed to yield without a struggle. Their champions are girding 
themselves for the conflict. If the churches do their duty, there 
can be no doubt as to the final issue. The divine decree has gone 
forth, " My word shall not return unto me void, but it shall accom- 
plish that which I please, and prosper in the thing whereunto I 
sent it." 




FIRST CHURCH IX HONOLULU, SANDWICH ISLANDS. 




G. W. WHARTON AND HIS HELPERS, INDIA. 



H 



XXXIV. 

THE WOEK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHEIST IN INDIA. 

Our first workers reached the field in October, 1882. They 
began their work in the Central Provinces. These provinces have 
an area of one hundred and sixteen thousand square miles, and a 
population numbering thirteen millions. The first stations were 
opened in Hurda and Bilaspur. Hurda is four hundred and seven- 
teen miles from Bombay ; Bilaspur is five hundred and three miles 
from Calcutta. As I entered India from the east, my first visit 
was made in Bilaspur. A ride of twenty-four hours brought me to 
the station. M. D. Adams and E. M. Gordon were waiting to 
welcome me. In a few minutes I was in the mission bungalow, 
where all my needs were supplied. 

In the spring of 1885 Mr. and Mrs. Adams, Miss Graybiel, Miss 
Boyd and Miss Kingsbury made Bilaspur their home. There are in 
this district one million five hundred thousand souls. The work is 
conducted along the following lines : Evangelistic, medical, zenana, 
educational and orphanage. M. D. Adams gives his strength to 
preaching in the villages and in the church. He is assisted by two 
good evangelists. He superintends the boys' school and the 
Sunday-schools. The Sunday-schools have a total enrollment of 
about two hundred and fifty children. The boys' school has an 
average attendance of fifty-seven. The boys are Hindus, Moham- 
medans and Christians. The church has received seventy-five 
members. Some of these are dead; some have gone away; a few 
have gone back. Mrs. Adams has charge of the book-store, keeps 
house, visits the women in their homes, and renders efficient service 
in the day and Sunday-schools. 

Miss Boyd gives her time to work among the women. At first 
she had to seek for an entrance into the homes, and to encounter 
many rebuffs. Men and boys used to follow and mock and jeer. 
Now she is sought or called in as she is passing, and asked to teach 
in their homes. Rebuffs are less frequent, and the boys are respect- 
ful. She visits all classes, from the Brahman and Mohammedan to 
the outcast sweepers. She does not exclude even the leper. At 
each visit she teaches the Scriptures. In some instances she has 

217 



218 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

taught the women to read and write. Many houses are still closed 
against her. Miss Kingsbury has charge of the orphanage. There 
are thirty-one girls under her care. Their ages range from three 
years to nineteen. They are taught to cook, sew, wash, sweep, and 
to do all kinds of useful work. Their dress is becoming; their 
faces are clean and bright. They look as if they belonged to a 
different race from that seen on the street. The day begins with a 
scriptural lesson. On Sunday they study the same lesson as the 
schools at home. The aim is to train the girls to live faithful lives 
among their own people. The transforming power of the Gospel is 
evident here. Lying and abuse are giving place to truth and gen- 
tleness. Moral thoughtfulness takes the place of selfishness and 
carelessness. Twelve of the girls have become Christians; three 
are married. 

Mrs. Lohr has charge of two schools for girls. The school first 
opened has one hundred enrolled and an average attendance of 
eighty. Children from Brahman and Mohammedan homes, as well 
as children from low castes, are found in this school. The girls in 
the orphanage are sent here. They are taught all the common 
branches. In addition, they are taught to sing, to sew, to knit, to 
draw, and many other useful things. The Bible is not neglected. 
In 1894 three went up for examination as teachers. Two passed. 
These are from the orphanage, and they are now helping Mrs. Lohr 
in the work. The next year she sent up three more; all passed. 
Two of these are now taking a normal course. The government 
gives a grant-in-aid of about seventy dollars a year. It has prom- 
ised $125 towards the enlargement of the building. Mrs. Lohr is a 
born teacher. Her ability, education and experience qualify her 
for the place she fills. The Inspector has acknowledged that she is 
doing a noble work. A Brahman told her that the people could 
never be sufficiently grateful to her for her services. The second 
school is in a poorer part of the town. Nevertheless, it has grown 
year by year. Beginning with fifteen pupils, it now has thirty. 
Women do not count for much in India. As a result, the educa- 
tion of girls is not prized very highly. This is specially true of the 
poor. Besides her other duties, Mrs. Lohr has a Sunday-school at 
the station for English and Eurasian children. 

Dr. E. C. and Dr. Lillian B. Miller are giving most of their 
attention to the language. They have been wisely advised to do 
this. In their leisure hours they superintend the grading of the 
hospital grounds. They are arranging their medicines and surgical 
instruments, and are planning for their work after they return 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN INDIA 219* 

from the hills next autumn. In the meantime, though they are not 
seeking a practice, they have to treat many cases. People come 
to them every day, and they cannot send them away without relief. 
The report has gone out that two new physicians have come to 
take up the work of Drs. Merrill and Baldwin. I heard compli- 
mentary remarks on all sides of these good missionaries, who are 
now at home on furlough. 

There are two bungalows in Bilaspur, two schools, an orphanage 
and a hospital. One school building is used as a chapel. The 
orphanage has been enlarged and will accommodate fifty girls. It 
will soon be full. The hospital consists of three buildings. The 
materials and workmanship are of the best. Missionaries are 
learning that it pays to put up good buildings. The first cost may 
be greater, but it is cheaper in the end. The great enemy of build- 
ings in India is the white ant. If walls and floors are of hard brick 
or stone, and rafters and joists of iron, the white ant can do noth- 
ing. But if the walls are of sun-dried brick and the rafters of wood, 
the occupant must be on his guard, or he will have the roof about 
his ears. 

During my stay in Bilaspur I visited all the schools, and was 
pleased with what I saw of the work. On Sunday I spoke through 
Mr. Adams. The house was full. At the close we had the com- 
munion. It was a season of refreshing from the presence of the 
Lord. One evening I went out to the bazar and heard the evan- 
gelists preach. The audience came and went. Some listened 
intently, others turned away as soon as they understood the nature 
of the message. We visited the temples and shrines. One priest 
sitting on a tiger skin under a huge umbrella assured us that if we 
wanted children our prayers would be granted, if we made an offer- 
ing to his god. This seems to be the great wish of Orientals. We 
met one man offering flowers and pouring out water over every 
idol. He had been praying for children for ten years, and in vain. 
One evening the ladies gave a supper in native style. The orphans 
and all the Christians were present. There was no table, or chair, 
or knife, or fork, or spoon. We sat on the floor. Curry and rice 
and dhal were served on a banana leaf. We ate with our fingers. 
Cakes and sweets were served at the close of the feast. Then one 
of the Christians made an address of welcome, to which I responded 
as well as I could. There were about seventy present. It was an 
evening long to be remembered. One could not look over that 
company without feeling that the missionaries are helping to make 
the kingdom of God come in India. 



220 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

From Bilaspur I visited Mungeli. This place is distant thirty- 
one miles. The bungalow was built and work begun by G. W. 
Jackson in 1887. Four years later his health failed, and he left for 
home. E. M. Gordon was engaged the same year. The next year 
W. E. Cooper joined the mission. It was at this point that Dr. 
Hitt was stationed. The people speak of him with affection. In 
1894 Mr. Cooper resigned and Dr. Hitt left for home. Since then 
Mr. Gordon has been alone. One year he had only one visitor. He 
evangelizes in Mungeli and in one hundred and fifty villages within 
a circuit of five miles. He uses the magic lantern to attract the 
people and to impress the truth. There are seventeen Christians in 
Mungeli. Though poor, they are collecting a fund to pay for a 
place of worship. One of the members is blind. He was taught to 
read by Mr. Gordon. For three years he has been in the Training 
School in Hurda. Mr. Wharton speaks of him as one of the bright- 
est young men he has ever met. Two schools are conducted. One 
is a night school and is for those who cannot attend by day. Last 
year the teacher became a Christian. The parents became alarmed 
and took away their children. They are now returning. Dr. Mil- 
ler and Mr. Adams went with me and added much to the profitable- 
ness of the visit. We called to see the school. We met the Chris- 
tians in two services and exhorted them to cleave to the Lord. The 
work in Mungeli is said to be in some respects more promising than 
at any other station. The converts are aggressive, and are earnestly 
seeking to win others to the belief of the truth. Mr. Gordon stands 
at his solitary post like a sentinel. When I was there he was antici- 
pating that he would have an associate within a few weeks, but his 
hopes were dashed for the present. Miss Graybiel said to me later, 
" Mr. Gordon is the hero of our mission." 

Every hour was full of interest. The children came in and gave 
us an exhibition. They sang and declaimed. We asked some ques- 
tions, and were gratified with the knowledge which the answers 
evinced. We left the shepherd and his little flock with admiration 
and hope. Such fidelity cannot but bear much fruit. On our 
return to Bilaspur we had a service of prayer and exhortation and 
song. All the missionaries were present. That evening I left for 
Damoh. They all came down to the train to send me on my way 
rejoicing. I shall long cherish the remembrance of this visit. I 
have reasons for profound gratitude, but I need not publish them. 
The children were as kind as their parents. May the Lord make 
his face to shine upon them and give them peace. 

It took three days to get from Bilaspur to Damoh. The train 





GIRLS' ORPHANAGE. BILASPUR, INDIA. 




' Jf -1 "* '. * . i ;' 1 ' "> '»*./ j . ; ;/>Jl'»'" "" -I. 



^3?a^. 



GIRLS' SCHOOL IN BILASPUR, INDIA. 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN INDIA 221 

brought me as far as Jubbalpur. At this point John G. McGavran 
met me. He escorted me the rest of the way. We had to go sixty- 
six miles in a horse tonga. It took a day and a half to cover this 
distance. John was one of my students in Bethany. The hours 
passed rapidly as we talked of old scenes and old friends, and of the 
work in this district* He was married recently, and is the happiest 
man in India. A railway is being built through Damoh. When it 
is opened this station will be easy of access. 

The work in Damoh began about a year ago. Mr. and Mrs. W. 
E. Rambo and Mr. McGavran were the first workers. Miss Josepha 
and Miss Stella Franklin and Mrs. McGavran joined them later. 
Damoh was selected on account of its healthfulness, and on account 
of its central location. The workers live in tents and in a house 
built of mud and thatch. They have had much difficulty in getting 
land. This delayed the building and hindered the work in other 
ways. Damoh is the site of the orphanage for boys. The founda- 
tion of the first building is nearly done. The plans for the bunga- 
low are almost ready. The work on both will be pressed to 
completion. 

I found Mr. Rambo and family ready to leave for Bombay, and 
perhaps for home. He was taken down with typhoid fever in 
August, and has not been well since. The doctors are doubtful of 
his recovery. He goes to Bombay to consult with the physicians in 
charge of the General Hospital. If they agree with Drs. Durand 
and Quinn he will go home. It was expected that he would take 
charge of the orphans. That work will now fall into other hands. 
Mr. McGavran had equipped himself for evangelistic work in the 
villages. Now he has the oversight of the boys and of the building 
operations. He has to go to the quarry for stone, and to the jungle 
for timber. He conducts Sunday-schools in the town, and preaches 
as he is able. Miss Josepha Franklin teaches the orphans. She 
aims to do the same grade of work that is done at home. The boys 
sit on the floor. The school has almost no apparatus. Neverthe- 
less the boys are making good progress. The Bible is taught every 
day. The teaching throughout is essentially Christian. Mrs. 
McGavran teaches them to sing. Some of the orphans are too 
young to attend school. Miss Franklin has these in a little house 
next to the one in which she lives. 

The orphanage work began in Bilaspur. Last July the boys 
were removed to Damoh. Then there were twenty-four in all. 
Before the end of the year over thirty more were added. Scarcely a 
week passes without some coming. The crops have failed for four 



222 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

years in succession. Parents die of famine, and leave their children 
to be cared for by others. Some brought their little ones and said, 
"We are dying of hunger; we have had nothing to eat for days; 
take our children and give us some food." Officials have sent chil- 
dren to them. Some of these have a pathetic history. They wan- 
dered about eating refuse left by animals, or subsisting on such 
fruits as they could find in the jungles. At night they slept beside 
a tree, or a stone, or in a ditch. Their hair grew long and matted. 1 
Their bodies were encrusted with dirt. Their blood has been 
impoverished. As a result, running sores break out, and maggots 
breed in their hair, and in almost every part of their bodies. Their 
eyes are sunken. The skin lies in wrinkles over the bones. These 
children are devoid of energy, and sit listless for days. Some come 
crawling, because they are too weak to walk. In a few weeks, if 
they are not too far gone, they begin to improve. They gain in 
flesh and in animal spirits. Several were pointed out to me. They 
came to the orphanage resembling a bag of bones ; now they are 
stout and strong, and give promise of long life. The aim of the 
Workers is to take these children and train them for lives of useful- 
ness and nobleness. An industrial department has been started. 
The boys are taught to sweep, to dust, to draw water, to tend cat- 
tle, and to work in the garden. As soon as practicable, they will be 
taught trades, so that they can earn their own living and help sup- 
port the Lord's work in India. 

I visited the day and Sunday-schools. Miss Franklin loves these 
boys and they love her. It was Topsy who said that Miss Ophelia 
would as soon touch a toad as to touch her. It is not so with Miss 
Franklin. She is not afraid to touch her boys. She is deeply 
interested in all that concerns them. They respond to her interest 
and affection. Lying and stealing and cruelty are abandoned under 
the influence of her life and teaching. The boys are remarkably 
well informed in the Scriptures, considering the time they have 
been in the orphanage. Some have confessed their faith in Christ 
and have been baptized; others are inquiring. Mrs. McGravran was 
born in Bengal. She is familiar with mission methods and mission 
work. She knows much of the language spoken in Damoh, and is 
able to render valuable service in the schools and in other depart- 
ments. Miss Stella Franklin is giving her whole time and energy to 
the language. Within a year after her arrival she will be able to 
undertake some work. 

I left Damoh for Bina. The work at this station is about a year 
and a half old. The staff consists of Mr. and Mrs. Ben Mitchell, 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN INDIA 223 

Miss Mattie W. Burgess, Miss Ida Kinsey, and the native helpers. 
Since locating here Mr. Mitchell has given most of his time and 
strength to the erection of the bungalow and out-buildings and to 
preaching. The bungalow is a very convenient and substantial 
building. The walls are of stone, the roof is of tiles, and the 
rafters of steel. He has planned and built for the centuries, 
building, in India is a serious matter. The workmen must be con- 
stantly watched. Every stone must be inspected. The most 
reliable contractor cannot be fully trusted. 

Mr. Mitchell has regular services for the English and Eura- 
sian people of Bina. Once a month he goes to Mahoba. He is 
preparing to build a chapel. He hopes to raise the money on the 
ground. Mrs. Mitchell speaks with the beggars at the gate, and 
sees that the hungry are fed. She makes temporary provision for 
the orphans sent to the bungalow, and forwards them either to Damoh 
or Mahoba. Besides she directs the labors of two evangelists and 
goes with them to the villages and towns whenever possible and 
addresses the people. In addition to her other duties, she keeps 
house. This is an important item, as the efficiency of the workers 
depends upon their health. Miss Burgess spends most of her morn- 
ings in the villages. The native preachers often go with her and 
assist. In one village she has regular meetings with a number of 
girls and women. In the afternoon she works among the women of 
Etawah. She is admitted to fifteen houses; before others she reads 
and sings. Frequently she sits down with the women in the street 
to tell them of the love of Christ. She has found only two or three 
that can read. Their minds and hearts have been starved from 
birth. They listen while she talks, but when she goes back they 
have forgotten most that she has said. Miss Kinsey has charge 
of two schools; one for boys, and one for girls. The parents are 
not concerned about the education of their daughters ; consequently 
their attendance is irregular. The largest boy in the school is mak- 
ing good progress, and says he is going to become a Christian. 
These schools are self-supporting. Miss Kinsey has a Sunday- 
school with about sixty enrolled. She has met with some opposi- 
tion from the Mussulmans, but this is dying down. 

I went with Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell and Miss Burgess out into 
the villages. They stood under a tree and sang. At once the peo- 
ple began to assemble. The women were a little shy and looked 
around corners and out of doors. They were near enough to see 
and hear. The evangelist spoke. In most cases the attention was 
perfect. One, man said, "We did not send for you; we have our 



224 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

own gods and are content." As of old, Christ is found of them 
that sought him not. We went from place to place all day. The 
services were deeply interesting. The day reminded me of what 
was said of the Master, " He went about through the cities and 
villages, preaching and bringing the good tidings of the kingdom of 
God." I called to see the schools, and heard the little ones sing, 
and saw their slates. Miss Kinsey has reason to feel gratified over 
the work of her pupils. Mr. Mitchell went with me to see the local 
Rajah. He is a little wizened bit of humanity. Though he has 
never been out of India, he speaks English well. He has been kind 
to the mission. He gave it ten acres of ground for an annual rental 
of less than a dollar. He has helped the workers in many ways. He 
playfully speaks of Miss Kinsey as "the superintendent of public 
instruction." He gave us some perfume and a betel nut, and 
offered us the use of his hookah. He gave us a ride on his ele- 
phant, and sent us some sugar cane as a present. One evening 
there was a social in the bungalow. The friends and neighbors 
gathered, and filled the parlors and halls. Before leaving one man 
made a little speech. He thanked the workers for the interest 
taken in the children, and for the pleasures they gave them on 
Christmas. Referring to the preaching, he said it was almost as 
good as he heard among the Catholics. He meant that for the high- 
est compliment he could pay. After two full and delightful days in 
Bina, I took the train for Hurda. 

Hurda is ten hours by rail from Bina. G. L. Wharton and his 
son Lawrence came out a distance of twenty miles to meet me. 
Mrs. Wharton and Miss Grace and Dr. Durand were at the station 
to reinforce the welcome already received, and to take me to the 
mission bungalow. The other workers had their schools to look 
after, and could not come. Hurda is our oldest station in India. 
The staff consists of Mr. and Mrs. Wharton, Dr. and Mrs. Durand, 
Mrs. Nellie L. Jackson, Miss Hattie L. Judson, Miss Mary Thomp- 
son, and the native assistants. Mrs. Durand is in America at 
present on account of sickness. Miss Thompson is from Australia, 
and is supported by the churches in that country. The work of 
each is somewhat as follows : 

Mr. Wharton has charge of the Bible and Training School. He 
teaches twenty hours a week. He superintends the evangelistic 
work in the bazar and in three out-stations. In addition to these 
duties he preaches for the church and teaches a Bible class in the 
Sunday-school. Mrs. Wharton has charge of the book-shop, con- 
ducts an English Sunday-school, does zenana work and looks after 




E. II. Gordon. Dr. Anna M. Gordon. 

MUNGELI, INDIA. 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN INDIA 225 

the sick women, especially in the church. Nathoo Lai evangelizes 
in Charwa and neighboring villages, and has charge of two Sunday- 
schools. His wife goes with him and teaches the women. Jagan- 
nath preaches in Rahatgaon and teaches a day and Sunday-school. 
Dr. John Panna has a weekly dispensary, and preaches to the 
people in Timarni. There are fourteen Sunday-schools in Hurda, 
with four hundred and seventy-seven pupils enrolled. Dr. Durand 
visits the hospital twice a day and attends to the in-patients ; does 
out-door dispensary work at the hospital and in the bazar; gives 
four hours a day to a medical class; attends to thirteen lepers, 
giving them food and medicine ; conducts services with the converts 
and non-Christians twice a day; and superintends a Sunday-school 
near the hospital. Most of the evangelistic work is done by Jere- 
miah. The wounds are dressed and medicines dispensed by Samson 
and other assistants. The average number of in-patients is ten, 
and the average of out-patients each day is about fifty. Last month 
the prescriptions numbered one thousand three hundred and 
seventy-one. . The conversions numbered eight. Mrs. Jackson has 
two boys' schools. She superintends the teachers and teaches some 
classes herself. Scarcely a day passes that she does not have to 
doctor somebody. Children and adults go to her for relief. She 
spends an hour and a half with her boys on Sunday in the study of 
the Scriptures. Her blackboard illustrations make the truth clear 
and memorable. Her household duties, the care of her own babies 
and of several orphans, and the temperance work among the Euro- 
peans, fill up the other hours of the week. She is a musical genius, 
and sings the Gospel into many hearts that otherwise would be 
shut against it. Miss Judson teaches in and superintends a school 
of girls. There are thirty-eight enrolled. On Sunday they have a 
special lesson in the Scriptures. Three days in the week she 
teaches a woman reading and arithmetic. After the reading lesson 
twelve of her neighbors meet with her for a Bible lesson. Several 
of these are seeking the true way. Every day she gives remedies 
for coughs, fevers, skin and other diseases, to the girls, their 
parents and other people in that district. Miss Thompson, in the 
cold season, goes twice a week to some of the villages near Hurda. 
She is accompanied by a Bible woman. The other four days she 
visits the women in Hurda, several of whom are learning to read. 
On Sundays she has a school for boys. The average attendance is 
twenty-one. She has on that day also a class for beggars. Every 
day she has religious exercise with the servants. She is constantly 

called on by the people among whom she labors for simple reme- 
15 



226 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

dies. Sarubia and Bhaktibai also visit the women in their homes 
and go to the villages near. There are six hundred villages waiting 
for the Gospel. 

I went to all the schools and saw the work. I examined the 
pupils and was pleased with their understanding and answers. Dr. 
Durand took me to the hospital. The building is clean and large 
enough. The land was given by the head man of the town. Under 
a tree, Jeremiah was preaching to the patients. The lepers are in 
another place. They, are in a pitiable condition. Their toes and 
fingers are dropping off. The good doctor has cured several as bad 
as these, and hopes to cure many more. Dr. Wharton took me to 
see the grave of Miss Robinson. It is in one of the prettiest spots 
in India. A slab of marble gives her name and age and the words, 
" Until the day dawn." In the same lot, Norman Kent Durand, the 
child of Dr. and Emma Durand, is buried. One evening we went 
out into the bazar to hear the singing and preaching. The students 
of the Training School sang, and several spoke. Near by a cow- 
protector spoke in the interest of this sacred animal. One audience 
heard of Christ and the great salvation, and the other heard about 
the sanctity of the cow and the crime of eating beef. 

When I was in Hurda there was a gathering of workers from all 
stations to discuss questions relating to the work. The first meet- 
ing was in the nature of a reception. The house was full. There 
were several addresses of welcome and as many responses. That 
evening the Magistrate and the Municipal Council called at the 
bungalow and spent an hour talking about India and America. 
After they left the missionaries came together for a season of 
prayer and song and conference. We had a time of refreshing 
from the presence of the Lord. The next morning we had a sun- 
rise baptism. One of Dr. Durand's patients made the good confes- 
sion and was baptized. We then repaired to the church and spent 
two hours in prayer and listening to addresses. Being in Hindi I 
did not understand what was said; but the earnest faces of the 
audience showed that they were interested. That afternoon I left 
for Mahoba. The workers and the Christians came down to the 
station. As the train pulled out the scene reminded me of the 
breaking up of one of our State Conventions. As the familiar 
faces faded in the distance I thought, " These are chosen vessels to 
bear the name of Christ before the heathen. It must be that the 
pleasure of the Lord shall prosper in their hands." 

The railway crossed the Narbadda river. This is one of the 
sacred streams of India. The people say that the Ganges is sacred 



THE WORK OF THE DISCIPLES OF CHRIST IN INDIA 227 

on one bank only, but the Narbadda is sacred on both banks. By 
noon the next day I was at Mahoba. This is a new station in the 
Northwest Provinces. The staff consists of Miss Graybiel, Miss 
Adelaide Frost, Miss Bessie Parrar, Miss Elsie Gordon, and a 
native evangelist and his wife. Miss Graybiel is housekeeper, 
architect and builder, and general superintendent. She has been 
able to get land at once, and with no trouble. In Hurda they have 
been trying to get some ground for years, and thus far have failed. 
She got her deed in a few days. The rental is ten cents a year. 
The people asked her as to her object. When she explained that 
the mission wanted to teach their women and children they said, 
"We will help you." They have done so. She has found a relia- 
ble contractor, and so was saved much anxiety. The bungalow and 
other buildings are as good as any I have seen in India. Miss Frost 
has charge of the orphanage. She had forty-four then, and new 
ones are coming in every day. She will need room for a hundred. 
That district is suffering from famine. For three years the crops 
have failed. The little ones come in with pinched faces, and legs 
and arms like pipe-stems. In a few months they are fat and rosy, 
and as full of play and mischief as could be desired. They call 
her " Mamma," and gather about her when she appears, and climb 
her knees, the envied kiss to share. They are as fond of love 
and kisses and sweetmeats as children at home. They are her joy 
and crown and reward. Some have died. Be it so, but "love 
never fails." The Sunday I was there five of the girls were bap- 
tized. Miss Frost's cup of joy was full. Miss Gordon and Miss 
Farrar have recently joined the mission. Miss Gordon helps with 
the little ones. Miss Farrar is studying the language and helping 
as she is able. The bungalow is surrounded by temples, shrines, 
idols, sacred trees, old palaces and suttee mounds. It is a light in 
a dark place. Miss Graybiel is planning for a school, a widows' 
home, and a hospital. There are some twenty believers now; she is 
praying that there may be fifty before the year closes. There are 
seven hundred and fifty-three villages in Mahoba. I was unable to 
visit Deoghur and Madhupar. Miss Adam has been at work in this 
field for seventeen years. Her prayer was that she might be sent to 
the darkest spot in India. -For nine years she lived in a little house 
on wheels. Those who know her say that she thinks of herself 
last. She has been praying for a hundred women to help her. 
Though over sixty years of age, she has no thought of retiring or 
relaxing her efforts. Miss Alice Spradlin is now associated with 
her in the work. Miss Farrar will join them in September. After 
"three pleasant days in Mahoba, I left for Allahabad and Benares. 



XXXV. 

BENARES. 

To the Hindu Benares is the most sacred place on the earth. 
What Jerusalem was to the Hebrew, what Mecca is to the Mussul- 
man, that and more than that Benares is to the Hindu. All who 
die within its limits, no matter what their creed or character, enter 
at once into everlasting bliss. Curiously enough, if one should die 
on the opposite bank of the Ganges, in the next transmigration he 
will be born an ass. 

Benares is the center and citadel of Hinduism. If any one 
thinks that this ancient faith has lost all vitality, a visit to this city 
will change his opinion. The crowds of pilgrims that flock here 
from all parts of India, and the earnestness they display in their 
worship, make it evident that Hinduism is a living faith. Benares 
is a place of interest to the Buddhists also. Here it was that the 
Buddha began to preach. A naked ascetic met him and asked him 
why his face was so joyous. He said, " I am the all-subduer, the 
all-wise, the stainless, the highest teacher, the conqueror. I go to 
Benares to dissipate the darkness of the world." He gathered 
about him a small band of disciples, and said to them, " Go ye out 
and travel from place to place, for the welfare of many people, for 
the joy of many people, in pity for the world, for the blessed welfare 
of gods and men." Buddhism was crushed and driven out of India 
by the Brahmans. But Buddhists remember that Benares was the 
place of its birth. 

The first place I visited was the monkey temple. This building 
is sacred to Kali. Within the temple is an image of the goddess. 
She is represented as a woman with a silver face and a red tongue. 
She was formerly worshiped by the blood-thirsty Thugs as their 
patroness. She is said to be the only deity in India who is wor- 
shiped with bloody sacrifices. The goat is the animal usually 
offered in sacrifice. The head goes to the priest, the body is eaten 
by the worshiper. In some way monkeys took possession of this 
temple. They come and go at pleasure. They climb up into the 
trees and run over the roofs of the buildings near. The worshipers 
acquire merit by feeding them. After I had seen the place and 

228 







BUNGALOW IN BINA, INDIA. 




HOSPITAL IN BILASPUR, INDIA. 



BENARES 229 

was about to depart, a crowd of men and women surrounded me 
and began to ask for money. One was the high priest of the tem- 
ple, and must be paid. One was a Brahman, and on that ground 
pressed his claim. Another was the keeper of the monkeys, and 
wanted money to buy them food. Then beggars of every descrip- 
tion were waiting their turn. Some were lepers, some were 
blind, some were deformed; all cried, " Great King, give me some- 
thing." They had the beastly habit, which I have seen in all parts 
of the country, of uncovering their stomachs that I might see that 
there was nothing in them. 

Leaving this place I went to the Golden Temple. The roof is 
plated with gold, but the interior is sloppy and nasty enough. Not 
being a "Hindu gentleman " I was not able to enter and go about 
where I pleased. All that I could do was to stand at the entrance 
and look in. The sight was one never to be forgotten. The place was 
thronged. The worshipers rang the bells, made their offerings, and 
repeated their prayers. As they were leaving a priest stamped their 
forehead with red paint, and they went on their way rejoicing. 
Near by is the "well of knowledge." Water from this well gives 
the knowledge of salvation. The people are constantly casting in 
fruits and flowers. To keep the water pure the authorities have 
covered over the mouth of the well. A Brahman sits by and ladles 
out some of the sacred fluid to those who pay for it. Another well 
of still greater sanctity is the " well of the ear-ring." This well was 
dug by Vishnu. His sweat filled it. Shiva looked into it, and so 
trembled with rapture that from one of his ears a jeweled ring fell, 
thus making the well doubly sacred. Pilgrims come here. A 
Brahman tells them of the cleansing efficacy of this water. The 
price demanded is reasonable. They hand him their hard-earned 
coins and then descend the steps and plunge into the pool and all is 
over. Every stain of sin is removed. "The liar, the thief, the 
murderer and the adulterer, may here wash and be clean." 

Other temples are not far distant. I visited one sacred to the 
cow. A dozen cows were going about among their devotees. 
Pious Hindus feed them and kiss their tails and pray to them. I 
visited the temple of Ganesh. This god has the head of an ele- 
phant. The explanation is- this : One night his father returned 
home drunk. Ganesh did not recognize his voice and refused to let 
him in. His father became enraged and struck him and knocked 
his head off. His mother was greatly distressed. The father took 
an elephant's head and put it on the boy and comforted his mother 
with the assurance that he would be the most popular god in India. 



230 A CIBCVIT OF THE GLOBE 

Benares has over two thousand temples and two hundred and 
seventy mosques. It is wholly given to idolatry, and such idolatry as 
Paul never saw in Athens or Corinth. The emblems of Shiva are 
everywhere. There are more of these in the city than there are 
human beings. Benares is a veritable paradise for the Brahmans. 
They are omnipresent, ever ready to guide the pilgrim in his devo- 
tions and to relieve him of his money. Naked fakirs smeared from 
head to heel with ashes are seen on all sides. The dirtier they are 
the greater their holiness. Sacred bulls swarm in the streets. 
They are fed by the people, and go wherever they choose. 

Next morning Dr. Lazarus sent a guide with me to see the bath- 
ing in the Ganges. He took a boat and rowed up the stream to the 
edge of the city, and then floated down with the current. Benares 
is built on a high bluff, and stretches four miles along the Ganges. 
Palaces have been built by wealthy men for themselves and for their 
relatives. Stone steps lead down from these palaces, and from the 
streets to the water. At sunrise tens of thousands come here to 
bathe and to worship. Men and women of all ages plunge in and 
wash themselves thoroughly. Then the men wash their loincloth, 
make their offerings, pray, and go home. "A pathetic feature of 
this jostling, bellowing crowd, is the large number of tottering, aged 
women, with scanty white locks, coming out of the cold water, 
crawling feebly up the steep steps with their wet clothes clinging to 
their poor, shivering lean legs, shrinking into some recess lest the 
shadow of a passing Englishman or Mussulman should fall on them, 
a calamity that spoils the effect of the sacred cleansing, and renders 
it needful to creep back once more to the chill water." At one 
point is the burning ghat. As soon as a Hindu dies his body is car- 
ried to this place. The bearers shout as they run, "The name of 
Rama is true." When they come to the ghat they lay the bier in 
the water. In due time a platform of dry wood is prepared. The 
body is laid thereon and covered with faggots. A torch is applied 
and the whole reduced to ashes, and the ashes swept into the 
stream. If the men in charge are in a hurry, they do not wait for 
the fire to do its perfect work. I saw one body not more than half 
consumed. A crow was feasting on it as it floated down the river. 
To die in Benares, and to be burned at this famous ghat, is consid- 
ered the highest felicity possible. We left the boat and visited the 
mosque of Aurungzeb, the tallest and most imposing building in the 
city. I ascended one of the minarets and saw the whole city and its 
numerous temples and shrines and worshipers, and thought of the 
saying, "The idols he shall utterly abolish." 



BENARES 231 

I visited some of the missions and tried to learn what I could 
about the work. The English Baptists work among the girls and 
women. The Church Missionary Society has an orphanage, a 
school for girls, and a large school for boys. The London Society 
has a boarding school with five hundred boys, several schools for 
girls, a high school and a church. The Wesleyans have a preaching 
place, a school for girls, and keep several catechists at work. The 
Zenana Bible and Medical Mission has two centers of work and 
several dispensaries. The work is hard and the progress slow. Mr. 
Parker, of the London Society, said to me that it was not like hit- 
ting a stone wall, but like beating against a wall of rubber. Never- 
theless, good work is being done, and the ultimate and universal 
triumph of the Gospel is assured. 



XXXVI. 

CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW. 

From Benares I went to Cawnpore. This city became famous in 
1857. Here the crowning tragedy of the Sepoy Mutiny was enacted. 
Several causes led up to the mutiny. The people were dissatisfied 
with the rule of the East India Company. Some hoped to restore 
the Mogul rule. Some aspired to office and power. Some 
thought they would be able to enrich themselves by plunder in a 
time of anarchy. Evil reports were circulated and readily believed 
by the soldiers. It was said that the cartridges were greased with the 
fat of beef and pork, and that the soldiers would have to bite off 
the ends before loading. The Hindus would be defiled by eating 
beef, and the Mussulmans by eating pork. Sepoys were made to 
believe that the bones of cows and pigs had been ground to powder 
and mixed with their flour and butter, in order to destroy their 
caste and religion, and to compel them to become Christians. 

The massacre that took place in Cawnpore was inspired and 
directed by Nana Sahib. This man was the adopted son and heir of 
the old king. The Government denied him the pension which he 
claimed was his due. He saw a chance for revenge and embraced 
it. At first he pretended to be the friend of the English. He 
assured them of his support in case of an attack. When the 
Sepoys rose and butchered their officers and committed their usual 
atrocities, he threw off all disguise. General Wheeler had a small 
force of soldiers in Cawnpore. He pitched his camp in an open 
field and threw up some entrenchments. All the English residents 
flocked to him for protection. There were nearly a thousand per- 
sons in the company. Nana persuaded the Sepoys to open fire on 
the English. For three weeks the attack and defense continued. 
The hot season was coming on: supplies of food and ammunition 
were running low; the besiegers numbered eleven thousand. All 
hope was given up. Nana offered to send them safely by boat to 
Allahabad, if they would lay down their arms and surrender their 
treasure. They accepted the terms and marched down to the 
Ganges to go on board. They suspected no treachery or bad faith. 
When the boats were full, guns were run out of ambuscade and 

232 



ISIJSZI®~& Q a OZQ O" r> ^a 




^rlHl'S/ii-^b.Sr.l.. 



Jew Hawk and Family. 
PORTLAND, ORE. 



Miss Ida Kinsey. Ben Mitchell. 

Miss Mattie Burgess. Mrs. Ben Mitchell. 
BINA, INDIA. 



CAWNPORE AND LUCENOW 233 

firing began. Escape was impossible. Some were killed; some 
were drowned; the others were brought back to the shore. The 
men were dispatched at once. The women and children were pre- 
served for a worse fate. They were sent for confinement to a 
house in the native city. Two strong swimmers escaped. Nana 
heard of Havelock's approach and sent his butchers to kill the 
women . and children. There were two hundred in all. The 
butchers used hatchets and swords. They cut off arms and legs 
and heads. The next morning they returned and found a few still 
living. They threw these with the dead into a well near by. They 
had hardly finished their devilish work when Havelock's men 
appeared on the scene. They were horrified by what they saw. 
Kneeling there on that bloody floor, with arms and legs and heads 
all about them, with their swords in their mouths, they swore to be 
revenged. 

The guide pointed out the well from which the besieged got 
water. The Sepoy guns were trained on this well, and water was 
drawn at the peril of life. He took us to the well where those who 
were killed or died during the siege were buried. This well is now 
filled and has a monument over it. The inscription runs: " Our 
bones are scattered at ye graves' mouth, as when one cutteth and 
cleaveth wood upon ye earth; but our eyes are unto thee, O God 
the Lord." A memorial church has been built. It cost $100,000. 
On its walls are the names of all who fell. We went to the other 
well. This too has been filled, and a monument erected over it. 
The soldier on guard pointed out the tree on which several hundred 
natives were hung. He told us that many had been shot from 
cannon. The vow of Havelock's men was kept. Those who were 
hung were compelled to drink the blood of their victims, and then 
were led out to the fatal tree. 

I called at one of the mission bungalows. Mr. Conklin, the 
missionary in charge, told me that several societies are at work 
in Cawnpore. There is quite a colony of Europeans. Cawnpore 
is becoming a manufacturing and commercial center. The native 
Christians can earn good salaries, and so are able to contribute to 
the support of the Gospel. He told me of a Brahman boatman who 
found a Bible in the Ganges-. He did not know what it was, but 
he felt that it was a good book, and he read it to his associates. 
He is now a Christian and a man of much influence. He is a boat- 
man still, but he preaches as he is able. 

At Cawnpore I took the train for Lucknow. Here I saw the 
palace of the last king of Oudh. It is not what it was once, but it 



234 A CIECUIT OF THE GLOBE 

is worth seeing. This king had two hundred wives. We went 
through their apartments. They are empty and silent now. We; 
saw mosques and temples and tombs without number. President 
Mansell took me to see the Residency. It was here that the 
English community were shut up during the mutiny. Here for 
more than four months they made as brave a fight as history 
records. Six hundred men withstood sixty thousand, armed with 
three hundred cannon. Sir Henry Lawrence was killed soon after 
the siege began. His last words were, " Whatever you do, never 
surrender." His words were heeded. The Residency is a ruin. It 
is as it was when the besieged were rescued. The places where 
great deeds were done and where brave men fell are marked. 
Among these were some native soldiers who remained loyal to the 
government. Havelock and Outram cut their way through the 
besiegers and relieved the garrison. The pent up feelings of the 
garrison burst forth in deafening cheers, so it is said, and even the 
wounded soldiers in the hospital crawled out to join in the chorus 
of welcome. The bearded warriors, who had just fought their way 
through the city, shook the hands of the soldiers of the garrison 
with frantic joy, and took the infants out of their mother's arms 
and kissed them with the tears running down their cheeks and 
tossed them up into the air in their exultation and delight, whilst 
they thanked God that they had come in time to save the survivors 
from the fate that had befallen the victims at Cawnpore. In the 
graveyard near the Residency is the tomb of Sir Henry Lawrence, 
the man who tried to do his duty. The garrison was relieved, but 
that was all. Havelock's force was not strong enough to rescue the 
besieged. Later Sir Colin Campbell came with an army of sufficient 
strength to drive back the Sepoys and carry away the garrison. 
Havelock died and was buried at Alumbagh. There was something 
of Cromwell in him. His saints could always be depended upon in 
any emergency. These were thrilling times. The heart beats 
faster while reading Whittier's stirring lines. When the garrison 
had given up all hope a Scottish maiden cried out, " Dinna ye hear 
it ? Dinna ye hear it ? The pipes of Havelock sound ! " 

"Oh, they listened, dumb and breathless, 

And they caught the sound at last, 
Faint and far beyond the Goomtee 

Rose and fell the piper's blast. 
Then a burst of wild thanksgiving 

Mingled woman's voice and man's, 
God be praised ! the march of Havelock, 

And the piping of the clans. 



CAWNPOBE AND LUCKNOW 235 

"Louder, nearer, fierce as vengeance, 

Sharp and shrill as swords at strife, 
Came the wild McGregor's clan-call 

Stinging all the ah' to life. 
But when the far-off dust clouds 

To plaided legions grew, 
Full tenderly and blithesome 

The pipes of rescue blew. 

" Round the silver domes of Lucknow, 

Moslem mosque and Pagan shrine, 
Rose the air to Britons dearest, 

The air of Auld Lang Syne. 
O'er the cruel roll of war-drums 

Rose that sweet and home-like strain, 
And the Tartan clove the Turban 

As the Goomtee cleaves the plain. ' ' 

I visited the Mission Press and found one hundred and fifty men 
at work. This Press issues thirty-five million pages a year. It is 
self-supporting, and more. Miss Thoburn has one hundred and 
forty-three girls in her boarding school. Iu other schools three 
hundred girls are being taught. The English and Hindustani 
churches are self-supporting. The boys' boarding school has fifty 
enrolled. Eeid Christian College has twenty in the regular courses. 
I visited the Widows' Home. A Hindu may marry a wife to-day 
and divorce her to-morrow. There are widows in India who have 
never been wives. These are taught and trained to serve as nurses 
or teachers. Some become wives of the native evangelists. One 
came to the deaconess in charge and said, " You gave my neighbor, 
a good wife; can you give me one as good ? " She said: " Yes; do 
you want to see her?" "That is not necessary. Name the day 
when I can come and be married." The Church of England is at 
work in Lucknow with a strong staff. The next point at which w& 
are to call is Delhi, once the capital of the Mogul Emperors. 



xxxvn. 

DELHI AND AGRA. 

Delhi is an old city. Tradition states that parts of it date back 
as far as the Exodus. For miles and miles beyond the limits of the 
present city there are traces of fortresses, palaces, tombs, temples 
and mosques. Each king wanted to build a capital that would 
eclipse that of his predecessor. The new city was built beside the 
old. The abandoned city in course of time fell into ruins. The 
ruins about Delhi cover forty-five square miles. 

The first place to which the stranger is taken is the Fort. The 
inclosing wall is of red sandstone, and is a mile and a quarter in 
length. The government has taken possession of this property and 
keeps it in repair. Within the Fort is the Private Hall of Audi- 
ence. This is of {jwhite marble. Once it was inlaid with all manner 
of precious stones. Most of these have been carried away by van- 
dals. The place is shown where the Peacock Throne stood. This 
throne was so called because its back was formed by jeweled repre- 
sentations of peacocks' tails. It was of solid gold inlaid with gems, 
and cost $30,000,000. When Nadir Shah, the Persian, invaded India, 
he took away the Peacock Throne. The Mahrattas took the silver 
filigree ceiling as part of their spoil. On the wall may be read a 
Persian inscription, "If on earth there is a heaven of bliss, it is this, 
it is this." We saw the Public Hall of Audience, the baths of the 
Emperor, his wives, and children, and the mosque in which the 
imperial family worshiped. From the Fort we went to the Great 
Mosque. This building is situated on a rocky eminence. There 
are magnificent flights of steps leading up to three lofty and hand- 
some gateways. The court is 450 feet square and is paved with red 
stone. In the center is a reservoir for water. Being built on so 
high a rock the domes and minarets lift themselves high into the 
air and are seen from afar. I was shown a hair from the beard of 
Mohammed, one of his slippers, and a print of his foot in marble. 
These things are guarded with the most jealous care. The cus- 
todians appear to think that they are genuine and of the greatest 
value. 

Eleven miles from New Delhi is the Kutub-Minar. This tower is 

236 




v=-> 



,£JF\ 




DELHI AND AGRA 237 

238 feet high, and dates back to the thirteenth century. It was 
built on the ruins of a Hindu fortress by the first resident Moham- 
medan king of India. Whole chapters of the Koran are cut in 
relief upon it. Though the Kutub was built six hundred years ago, 
the carving and masonry are as fresh and as perfect as if they had 
been finished but yesterday. I went up to the top and looked out 
in all directions. As far as the eye could reach the landscape was 
filled with ruins. Another tower of the same pattern was begun 
but not completed. The foundations of a great mosque were laid 
and the walls partly erected when the work ceased. The builder 
died or changed his plan. On the way back we stopped to examine 
the tomb of Humayun, the father of Akbar the Great. The mauso- 
leum is of red sandstone inlaid with marble. It was here that the 
two sons of the last Mogul Emperor took refuge in the Mutiny and 
were shot. We glanced at Indrapat. This fortress is said to be the 
oldest part of Delhi. It reaches back to the time of Joshua. We 
saw Ferozabad in the twilight. Within it is one of the columns of 
Asoka, on which his edicts are inscribed. 

On Sunday morning I went to the Episcopal Church. It was a 
military parade service. The officers of the garrison wore their 
swords, the soldiers carried their guns. Before the Mutiny they 
left their arms outside; since the Mutiny they take them in. The 
sermon was ten minutes by the clock, but owing to the sing-song 
tone of the preacher it seemed an hour. Delhi is the home of 
the Cambridge Brotherhood. The members are celibates and live 
as one family. They carry on evangelistic work and teach in the 
college for boys in Delhi and do work in the outlying district. In 
the evening I went to the English Baptist Church. The missionary 
in charge was out in the villages. One of his associates preached. 
The Baptists carry on evangelistic and educational work here. 

Delhi was the center of the Mutiny. Here the old Emperor 
lived in retirement as a pensioner of the government. His parti- 
sans brought him out and placed him on the throne. Soldiers gath- 
ered from all parts of Hindustan. Thirty thousand disciplined 
troops held the city. The English did not have as many as ten 
thousand. It was felt that Delhi must be taken at any cost. The 
post of danger and of honor was assigned to General Nicholson. 
He was to blow up the Cashmere gate and storm the city on its 
most deadly side. Soldiers carried bags of gunpowder through 
shot and shell and placed them in position. All were either killed 
instantly or fatally wounded. The train was fired and the gate 
blown into atoms. The assailants rushed in and charged the Sepoys 



238 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

with the bayonet. More than a third of the British force fell. 
General Nicholson was shot in the hour of victory. In a little 
while the British flag waved over the citadel. The neck of the 
Mutiny was broken, and India was saved to England. The valor 
displayed in and around Delhi has never been excelled. 

I left Delhi for Agra. This city was built by Akbar. The walls 
inclose eleven square miles. Dr. Colin Valentine, a Scottish 
worthy, took me to his own home. After breakfast he took me to 
Sikandra. Here the great Akbar is buried. Three thousand men 
spent twenty years building his tomb. The lower stories are 
of red sandstone ; the upper one is of white marble. He is buried 
in a dingy vault. There is a cenotaph in the upper story. Around 
it are the ninety-nine names of God. At the head is a pillar in 
which the Kohinoor was set. The jewel has passed into other 
hands; the glory of the Mogul Empire has departed. Across the 
road is an orphanage for boys and girls under the control of the 
Church Missionary Society. The government gave this Society the 
tomb of one of Akbar's wives for this purpose. This is the best 
use I have seen made of any tomb in India. The orphans are 
taught to read and write and to work with their own hands. Among 
other things they are taught printing and binding, and do very cred- 
itable work. After our return we went to the Fort and saw the Pearl 
Mosque, the Palace, the Public and Private Halls of Audience, the 
Tilt-yard, the Palace of Glass, the rooms occupied by the numerous 
wives of the Emperor. Bayard Taylor says of the Pearl Mosque: 
"To my eye it is absolutely perfect. It is a sanctuary so pure and 
stainless, revealing so exalted a spirit of worship, that I felt hum- 
bled, as a Christian, to think that our noble religion has never 
inspired its architects to surpass this temple to God and Moham- 
med." The Palace of Glass is a bath, the walls of which are 
adorned with thousands of small mirrors. Akbar's judgment-seat is 
as he left it. It is a block of black marble. The guide points out 
a crack in it, and gravely tells you that blood came from this crack 
more than once. Another seat of white marble was used by the 
King's fool. 

I went twice to see the Taj Mahal. This is the most renowned 
building in the world. Twenty thousand men spent seventeen years 
in its construction. Tho ends of the earth were searched for pre- 
cious stones to garnish it. The Taj is the tomb built by Shah Jehan 
for his favorite wife, the lovely Noor Jehan, the Light of the 
World. It rests on a plinth eighteen feet high and three hundred 
and thirteen feet square. The tomb proper is one hundred and 



DELHI AND AGBA 239 

eighty-six feet from side to side. It is surmounted with a central 
dome eighty feet high and fifty feet in diameter. At each corner 
there is a smaller dome. The whole of the Koran is inscribed on 
the walls. There are four minarets one hundred and thirty-seven 
feet high. The entire building is of white marble. On either side 
there is a mosque of red sandstone. The Taj is approached through 
a lofty - gateway. The avenue is lined with trees and flowers. In 
the midst of it a stream of clear water runs. The Taj baffles 
description. One can give its materials and dimensions and decora- 
tions, and leave the reader little the wiser. He can say that the 
walls are covered with tulips, lilies and oleanders; that the tombs 
of the Emperor and his beautiful wife are inlaid with flowers made 
of the costliest gems; but no one could get from such words an 
adequate conception of the graceful proportions and exquisite 
beauty of this building. We may call it a dream in marble, we may 
say that it is the perfection of beauty; we may get photographs of 
it. These help a little, but not much. It would be as easy to gild 
refined gold as to describe the Taj. Heber said, "The Pathans 
design like Titans, and finish like jewelers." They do. It is sig- 
nificant that the finest tomb ever erected was erected to a woman, 
and that in a country where women are lightly esteemed. 

The thought of these great buildings and their builders fills one 
with sadness. The Mogul Emperors were little better than sav- 
ages. When one ascended the throne he blinded or strangled all 
his near relatives. Brother rose up against brother, and son against 
father. Shah Jehan built the Taj, but that did not keep him from 
seeking solace in the company of dancing girls. He spent the last 
seven years of his life as a prisoner. The Taj was built by men who 
were not paid for their services. The Emperors built tombs and 
palaces and mosques to perpetuate their own names, but no pro- 
vision was made for the common people. They were not taught; 
roads and bridges were not made so that they could take their 
products to market. " For a less sum of money than they spent on 
their palaces, two tombs and a throne, the British government has 
made 4,500 miles of irrigating canals, watering 3,000,000 acres, and 
giving employment and food to fifteen or twenty millions of 
population." 

Dr. Valentine is the head of a medical missionary school in Agra. 
He has students from all parts of India. Every evening they gather 
in his home and listen to his expositions of the Scriptures. In Jey- 
pore he healed one of the wives of the Maharajah. This gave him 
a standing at court and in the community that he could not have 



240 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

had otherwise. He is a man of God, and he is doing the work of 
God. I called to see St. John's College. This is a thoroughly 
Christian School. Nothing is left undone to bring the students to 
Christ. The classes are full. New buildings are needed. The 
Agra College has about the same number of students. The Princi- 
pal is a Scotchman and a Christian. But there is no religious 
instruction in the classes. I called to see all the missionaries and 
heard from them about their work. I left Agra for Bombay by 
way of Jeypore and Baroda. 




1. Miss Kingsbury. 
4. Miss Boyd. 



2. Dr. Merrill. 
5. Mrs. Lohr. 



3. Dr. Baldwin. 
6. M. D. Adams. 



MISSIONARIES IN BILASPUR, INDIA. 



XXXVIII. 
BOMBAY, POONA AND NELLOEE. 

Bombay is the chief commercial city of India. Its harbor is one 
of the finest in the world. The population numbers 805,000. The 
great buildings and crowded streets remind one of an American 
seaport. Mr. Wharton came down from Hurda to meet me and to 
go with me through Southern India. With such a genial and 
accomplished guide my visit to this part of the country could not 
fail to be both pleasant and profitable. 

We went first to the office of the Bombay Guardian. Mr. 
Dyer, the editor, belongs to the Friends, and therefore is pledged to 
seek peace and to pursue it. But let no evil think it can nourish in 
Bombay on that account. He will smite it with both hands earn- 
estly, and will consent to no cessation of hostilities till the evil 
ceases to exist. He is a pronounced and persistent assailant of vice 
and crime. For his outspoken words against the opium traffic and 
other iniquities he was sent to jail. But even that experience did 
not subdue his spirit or cause him to abate his zeal for the Lord of 
hosts. Mr. Dyer is a moral force in India. His influence for good 
is felt throughout the Empire. Vice knows and fears and hates 
him. 

Eleven missionary societies are at work in Bombay. The whole 
number of missionaries is forty-four. The work of the American 
Board is said to be the most prosperous in the Presidency. Mr. 
and Mrs. Hume, the missionaries in charge, received us most kindly 
and showed us the premises and the work. They began a school in 
1876 with one pupil. They have now 165. The dormitories and 
class-rooms have been outgrown. Recitations are held in all sorts 
of places. The pupils are all Christians or are from Christian 
homes. Because they are^, they meet and recite in the same 
classes. This is the only place in India where I saw this done. 
We were there on Washington's birthday. Mrs. Hume had an 
American flag and gave a short talk on Washington. She gave the 
school a holiday in honor of the occasion. The address and the 
holiday were loudly cheered. Mr. Hume told us that the church is 

16 241 



242 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

entirely self-supporting. The members collect and disburse the 
funds and manage their own affairs. 

The Parsees are the most influential class in Bombay, though 
they number only 70,000. When the Mohammedans invaded 
Persia, twelve hundred years ago, some of the Persians migrated to 
India. The Parsees are their descendants. One of the priests 
told us of their worship. They follow the teachings of Zoroaster. 
He taught the necessity of good thoughts, good words, and good 
deeds. In their temples the sacred fire never goes out. Sandal 
wood and incense are kept burning all the time. But they do not 
worship the fire or the sun. These are symbols of God and are 
helps to the mind. We visited the Towers of Silence. These are 
the places where the Parsees expose their dead. The dead body is 
carried up into the Tower and left there perfectly naked. The 
mourners remain below in the house of prayer. As soon as the 
bearers are gone the vultures swoop down on the corpse. In less 
than ten minutes the bones are stripped bare. After some time the 
skeleton is thrown down a well in the center of the Tower. Here 
rich and poor meet together. Pipes lead from the central well to 
four other wells. When the bones become dust the rains carry the 
dust into these reservoirs. The Parsees are rich, intelligent, and 
public-spirited. They build schools and hospitals and infirmaries 
and endow them. Their women dress with admirable taste. In 
this respect they excel all the peoples I have seen on my travels. 

In the hospital for the deaf we saw Gulali, one of the students 
from Hurda. Mr. Wharton says that he is not only the brightest 
mind in the class, but one of the brightest men he has ever met. 
He is totally blind and recently has been growing deaf. One ear 
has gone and the other is going. The doctors think they can arrest 
the disease. His face shone when we spoke to him. He said that 
as Paul's imprisonment led to the Gospel being preached in the 
imperial palace, so his confinement in the hospital was being used 
to carry the Gospel to those who had never heard it. The physi- 
cians and the patients gathered about him as he read the Bible for 
the blind. He had read to them most of the Gospel by John. 

After seeing Bombay we went to Poona and spent Sunday 
there. T. H. Marshall and family, formerly of Hurda, live there 
and took us to their home. Poona is an interesting city. Here 
Pandita Ramabai lives and carries on her work. Ramabai belongs 
to the highest caste. She was taught Sanskrit by her father and 
mother. At sixteen she was married. She said her parents did not 
throw her down the well of ignorance by giving her in marriage in 



BOMBAY, POONA AND NELLOBE 243 

infancy. She became an advocate of female education. In 
Calcutta she was examined and pronounced "a prodigy of erudi- 
tion." When she was eighteen she was left a widow and an orphan 
with a daughter to support. She took the platform and advocated 
the cause of Hindu women. She formed a society to promote 
female education and to discourage infant marriages. Feeling her 
need of more training she went to England. There she became a 
Christian and went to college for several years. Then she went to 
America and stirred many by her eloquence. She returned to 
Poona and opened a home for high caste widows. India has 
23,000,000 widows of all ages. The law is, "once a widow, always 
a widow." Their heads are shaven, they are starved and beaten, 
they wear special garments and no jewels. These are " badges of 
shame." Ramabai opened her home with one child widow. The 
number increased to sixty-nine. We called to see her. We found 
her surrounded by a group of girls. She was reading and explain- 
ing the Scriptures. She showed us through the compound. Her 
home is a beautiful one. There are many evidences of taste, but 
none of wealth. We saw the class-rooms and the library. She has 
fifty girls now; of these, forty are widows. Several became Chris- 
tians. A storm was raised and some were withdrawn. No effort is 
made to turn the inmates from Hinduism. But the atmosphere of 
the place is decidedly Christian, and girls do give themselves in 
love and trust to Christ. Ramabai is a quiet, modest, gentle soul. 
It is plain that she lives in the Spirit, and walks in the Spirit. 

R. P. Wilder and Max Morehead are at work in Poona among 
the college students. There is a daily lecture. On Sunday there is 
a service of song, and this is preceded by a season of prayer. A 
daily paper sounded an alarm. It said, "The love of the mission- 
aries is more dangerous than the sword of the Mohammedans." A 
Brahman was baptized. He came to the hall and told his experi- 
ence. He said, "You may beat me; you may kill me; I care not." 
Then he told them that he had been baptized. There was a fierce 
outcry at once. The meeting became a mob. They beat him and 
spat in his face and tried to kill him. He was offered good posi- 
tions if he would deny the faith, but he remained steadfast and 
immovable. The missionaries were stoned. The building was 
saturated with oil and set on fire. Two men stood at the door and 
refused admittance to the young men. They were obliged to seek 
another hall. One student who manifested some interest was 
caught and locked up and his clothes taken away. He got out and 
came to Mr. Wilder almost naked. He is undaunted. The even- 



244 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

ing we were at the service there were several weddings near by. 
There was a score of brass bands. It was as if bedlam and pande- 
monium had broken loose. The speaking was interrupted, but the 
hall was full and the attention good. Mr. Wilder feels greatly 
cheered in the work. 

We called to see the Bernard sisters. They are nieces of Lord 
Lawrence. One has charge of the educational work, one is at the 
head of the medical department, and the third superintends the 
orphanage. They are all women of ability and education and con- 
secration. They are fitted to adorn any sphere. They work at 
their own charges. They are as great and effective in their way as 
Ramabai is in hers. They are remarkably happy in their work. 
Their joy is such as no butterfly of fashion or belle of society can 
ever know. Our day in Poona was one to be long remembered. 

Our next halt was made at Nellore. Most of the country 
through which we passed is rocky and poor. The population is 
sparser than in Bengal or the Central Provinces. Mr. Downie, of 
the American Baptist Missionary Mission, was at the station and 
constrained us to abide with him. He and Mrs. Downie and their 
associates contributed in every way to our enjoyment. The great 
work of the Baptists among the Telugus began at Nellore. The 
plant here is a large one. The whole district has been evangelized. 
The church in Nellore has 700 members. There are 225 boys and 
girls in the schools on the compound. The industrial department 
is in charge of Mrs. Downie, and is self-supporting and more. The 
demand for the work is greater than the supply. Dr. Gould has 
the work in the hospital and dispensaries. Dr. Downie has been 
in Nellore since 1872. He took part in the relief in the famine of 
1877. He told us that as much relief work was done in Nellore as 
in Ongole, but the ingathering that followed was not so large. 
Still it has been very gratifying. With such a staff and with such 
workers as preceded them, it could not have been otherwise. One 
evening the children came over and sang and recited for us. The 
kindergarten songs were as entertaining as any such songs at home. 
We saw all the work and were greatly pleased with it. We left 
Nellore for Madras. 




BUNGALOW IN MAHOBA, INDIA. 




TAJ MAHAL. 



xxxrx. 

FEOM MADRAS TO COLOMBO. 

Madras has a population of 500,000, and is the capital of the 
Presidency. The most noted institution here is the Christian Col- 
lege. This school was founded by the Free Church of Scotland. 
The Wesleyan and Church Societies contribute to its support. 
Professor Kellett showed us through the buildings. There are nearly 
2,000 students enrolled. More than half are in the primary depart- 
ment. One student in ten is a Christian. There are ten European 
teachers on the staff and about seventy natives. Dr. William Mil- 
ler is the principal. Some are not satisfied with his attitude toward 
Hinduism and Mohammedanism. They feel that he and his asso- 
ciates do not do all they ought to win the students to the faith of 
Christ. Dr. Miller is a strong man. He is the most accomplished 
and successful teacher in India. He gives reasons for his course. 
The calendar states that what the college desires is to make educa- 
tion an instrument of opening men's minds to moral and spiritual 
and Christian truth, and thereby to take a humble but useful part 
in the mighty work which Christ began and which his body, the uni- 
versal church, is bound by every means within her power to further. 
While we were in Madras there was a conference of the colleges of 
Southern India. The conference was held in one of the halls of 
Christian College. Forty schools were represented. J. R. Mott, 
J. C. White, R. P. Wilder, Max Morehead, and J. H. Forman were 
present. The advancement of the cause of Christ in the colleges 
was the one aim of the conference. 

We visited several missions and inquired concerning the progress 
of the work. We heard here, what we heard in other cities, that 
the work was hindered by representatives from Christendom. This 
is not true of all, but it is true of many. We called to see Dr. Mur- 
dock. He has been in India^over forty years. His books are every- 
where. They are widely read and cannot fail to do much good. 
We heard of an American convict and went to see him. He is not 
an American by birth. It is not clear that he is one by adoption. 
He has had a half dozen different names. There were tears in his 
eyes and in his voice. He cries too easily. His term will soon 

245 



246 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

expire. He admits that he has been a bad man, but promises to 
mend his ways. ' 

We left Madras for Colombo. On the way we stopped for a few 
hours at Tanjore. This was the home of Schwartz for years. His 
church is in the fort. The Rajah took a great interest in him and 
his work. No doubt the favor of royalty contributed to his success. 
The people saw that Schwartz was able to protect and to assist 
them. Mr. Blake, the missionary in charge, showed us through the 
church and the schools. There are 600 boys in the college. In ^he 
same compound there is a large school for girls. Near by is a Chris- 
tian village. Mr. Blake is a High-church man, but he was extremely 
obliging and gave us all the time and attention we could desire. 
We crossed the street and visited the Leipsic Mission. This mis- 
sion carries on evangelistic and educational work. Caste is not rec- 
ognized in the church or at the Lord's table. In the homes it is. 
People of different castes do not marry. The missionaries regard 
this as a social regulation and do not interfere with it. These two 
missions inherit the work of Schwartz. We saw his grave in the 
church. When the old Rajah was dying he sent for the man of God 
and entreated him to become guardian for his young son. He said 
to him, "This is not my son, but yours; into your hand I deliver 
him." When Schwartz died the young prince wrote the following 
lines, which were placed upon his tomb : 

"Firm wast thou, humble and wise, 
Honest, pure, free from disguise ; 
Father of orphans, the widow's support, 
Comfort in sorrow of every sort. 
To the benighted, dispenser of light, 
Doing, and pointing to, that which is right, 
Blessing to princes, to people, to me; 
May I, my father, be worthy of thee, 
Wisheth and prayeth thy Saraboji." 

Our next call was made at Trichinopoly. The Society for the 
Propagation of the Gospel has a school here with 1,500 boys in it. 
Of these 700 are in the primary department. This is the largest 
school south of Madras. In the church we saw the grave of Heber* 
He died here while on a tour of Episcopal visitation. His grave is 
very simple. The temples in the south of India are wholly unlike 
anything seen in other parts of the country. The gates are huge 
and high. They and the temples proper are covered with tiers of 
images of gods and goddesses. The buildings are filled with rude 
carvings. There is no beauty or utility anywhere. The temple in 
Trichinopoly covers a vast space. People inside sell all sorts of 



FROM MADRAS TO COLOMBO 247 

merchandise. The inclosure looks more like a market than a house 
of prayer. Crowds of priests want to serve as guides. They follow 
visitors about and then demand pay for imaginary services. They 
press their claims with an importunity worthy of a better cause. 
We found the missionaries kind and helpful. They regretted that 
we could not stay longer and see more of their work. 

The "next day was spent in Madura. This district is as large as 
Massachusetts and is worked by the American Board. "We heard a 
sermon in Tamil in the morning. At Mr. Herrick's request I spoke 
in the evening. After the service Mr. Chandler took us to the 
monthly missionary concert. Here Mr. Wharton spoke. There 
are two self-supporting churches in Madura. They pay all their 
own expenses and aid the work elsewhere. The next morning Mr. 
Chandler showed us over the spacious compound. We met Dr. Van 
Alen in the hospital and Miss Swift, Miss Root and Miss Noyes in 
their buildings. The work has outgrown the premises. In the 
afternoon we rode out to Pasamulai to see the college. We made the 
acquaintance, of Drs. Washburn and Jones and Professor Zumbro. 
We saw the buildings and the classes. There are about 700 students 
here. Most of these are believers. The representatives of the 
American Board are able men. This is true in Japan and China as 
well as in India. 

Our last visit was made at Palamcottah. This is in the Tinne- 
velly district. The two societies connected with the Church of 
England are at work in this field. The work began more than a 
century ago. Schwartz was the pioneer. He was succeeded by 
Ehenius, Ringeltaube, Jaenike, Kohikoff, Thomas, Ragland and 
others. Bishop Sargent was here for fifty years. He saw the num- 
ber of converts in his diocese increase from 9,000 to 55,000, and the 
number of missionary agents from 184 to 768. No wonder that on 
his deathbed he said, " If I had a thousand lives they should all be 
devoted to missionary work." Mr. Walker, the leading missionary, 
put us in the way of seeing the schools and other places of interest. 
We spent some time in the Sarah Tucker Institution. Miss Askwith 
has 300 girls under her care. Some are blind, others are deaf and 
dumb. This school is affiliated with the Madras University. Mrs. 
Kember has ninety-five girls in her building. Professor Keyworth 
has 200 boys in the High School. Professor Schaifer has 400 in the 
college in Tinnevelly. A great work is being done here. In this dis- 
trict there are 465 schools with 16,000 boys and girls enrolled. Miss 
Askwith has the oversight of fifty of these schools. Miss Blythe 
directs the labors of forty Bible women. Large sums of money 



248 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

1 

have been invested in this mission. The returns are very gratify- 
ing. At this point Mr. Wharton left for Hurda. He had been 
my guide for two weeks and helped me to see Southern India with 
profit. Mr. Mead, a distinguished Baptist preacher from Adelaide, 
joined me here. He had been in India in the interest of missions, 
and was on his way home. 

I have found English clergymen very pleasant socially. They 
are as hospitable as one could wish. But they are priests, and they 
alone are qualified to minister in holy things. Not only so, but I 
have found that to Europeans in the East America is practically 
non-existent. When I would introduce the subject they would say, 
" Really," or " O," and begin at once to talk about something else. 
They do not know that nearly half the missionary work of the world 
is done by Americans. They know as little about the New World 
as the average American knows about the Old, if they know as 
much. Going into a store to buy a hat, the salesman said, "Ameri- 
cans can't make stiff hats." I said, "Americans can make any- 
thing." He said, " They can make soft hats, but not stiff hats." 
Mine was once stiff. He said, "You must go to London for stiff 
hats." I told him if he would look into the hat he was disparaging 
he would see that it was made in London. He had no more to say. 

As we sailed from Tuticorin for Colombo, and as India faded 
from sight, I thought that that great land belongs to Christ, because 
he died for its redemption, and he shall have it. The struggle with 
the powers of darkness will be a long one. But it must be 
continued 

,(Until that land, so dear, so sorrowed o'er, 
With all its load of misery and sin, 
After long ages of transgression, turn, 
And, pierced in heart with love, the shaft of Kings, 
Fall down and bathe His blessed feet with tears ; 
Then rise, and to the listening world tell out 
Her deep repentance and her new found joy.,, 




BUNGALOW IN BILASPTJR, INDIA. 








. • , - ■ , - , ■ _• / 



% ■' « . .V. ±> 



BOYS' SCHOOL IN BILASPUR, INDIA. 



XL. 
LARGE INGATHERINGS IN INDIA. 

In some parts of India large numbers have become obedient to 
the faith. The workers in other missions have been as faithful and 
diligent in holding forth the word of life, but the results that 
rewarded their labors and cheered their hearts have not been so 
great. The large ingatherings have been, without exception, in 
missions that have long been established. A bountiful sowing has 
preceded a bountiful reaping. Bishop Thoburn says that it requires 
a generation to get laborers settled and fairly at work. Distrust 
and dislike must be lived down, and confidence and good will 
secured, before the people will listen attentively to the Gospel. In 
several instances the relief given in time of famine contributed to 
the large results. I propose to give brief accounts of some suc- 
cessful missions in India. 

The Gossner mission in Chota Nagpur has recently celebrated 
its Jubilee. This mission works among the Kols, an aboriginal 
tribe. Their religion consists in the worship of evil spirits. They 
think they please the gods best by feasting, drinking and dancing. 
All diseases are attributed to demons or to witches. The reports 
show that the converts, from the first, number 52,246. In fifty 
years many have died, or have gone back, or have gone to Assam or 
elsewhere. Of the whole number of converts, 40,000 are living and 
known. The missionaries met with much opposition. The con- 
verts were plundered by armed bands. Their rice, their money, 
their ornaments and the roofs of their houses were seized and 
carried away. 

The Arcot mission is inseparably connected with the name of 
Scudder. Dr. John Scudder was one of the first physicians of New 
York City. He read a paper on " The Conversion of the World; 
or, The Claims of Six Hundred Millions, and the Ability and Duty 
of the Churches Respecting Them." He offered himself to the 
American Board and was accepted. In 1819 he sailed from Boston 
for Ceylon. He decided to work among the Tamils and to make 
Madras the center of his work. Dr. Scudder was a versatile man. 
He served the people as preacher, teacher, physician, translater 

249 



250 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and editor. He was instant in season and out of season, lie 
realized his own desire to be one of " the inner circle about Jesus." 
His children and children's children to the fourth generation have 
walked in his steps. For his eldest son Silas his prayer was that 
God would make him a Christian and a missionary. Silas wanted 
to make a fortune as a physician in New York. He founded the 
Women's Hospital in that city and was making money. But God 
touched his heart and he went to India as a medical missionary. 
Dr. Henry M. Scudder selected Arcot as his field. There are now 
in the mission nine missionaries, eight native pastors, sixteen cate- 
chists, seventy-five readers and teachers, 124 congregations, a 
Christian community of 6,504 souls, and 122 schools with 4,517 
pupils. Since the mission was opened, railways, bridges, macadam- 
ized roads, houses of brick and tile, have been built; electric 
wires have been strung; streets have been cleaned and walls white- 
washed. In all these improvements the missionaries have been in 
the lead. 

The Methodist Episcopal Society opened its first station in India 
in 1857. In recent years its success has been marvelous. Not less 
than one thousand a month renounce idolatry and put themselves 
under Christian instruction. Dr. E. W. Parker, of Lucknow, gave 
me an account of the work. Some low caste Sikhs came to the 
missionary in Bareilly and told him that they had heard the Gospel 
on the banks of the Ganges at one of their feasts, and they wanted 
to hear more. Some were led to confess their faith in Christ. 
These were sent back to their own people with the message of 
salvation. In course of time the whole caste, consisting of about 
10,000, was won. From these converts, preachers, catechists, 
railway clerks and civil servants have come. The work among the 
Chamars began in this way : A religious teacher was led to Christ in. 
the Church mission. He wanted to go home and preach to his own 
kindred. That mission had no work in that part of the country. 
He went to the Methodist mission and told his history. He was SO' 
revered by his pupils that they would wash his feet and drink the 
water. He felt confident that many of these would listen to his 
words. He wanted to preach. Dr. Parker took him with him on 
his tours among the towns and cities. He was able and eloquent, 
and so spoke that many believed. One day he said, " This is not 
the work I want to do. Do you see these villages ? I have disci- 
ples in them all. They will believe what I say." Dr. Parker said 
to him, "Go." Soon after a delegation returned with him and 
said, " We want this man to live with us. We will feed, and 



LARGE INGATHERINGS IN INDIA 251 

clothe, and house, and protect him." He went with them that 
very day. Many thousands have avowed their faith in Jesus 
Christ. This particular caste numbers 500,000; there is reason to 
believe that the whole caste will be brought over. The largest 
ingathering has been from the sweepers, the lowest of all castes. 
Some boys asked to be taught. The teachers did not stop to 
inquire as to their caste. Schools were opened in their villages 
and myriads have believed. Caste is not recognized in the 
churches. But the work, in the main, has been along caste lines. 
One family has been used to reach other families. Converts find it 
easier to work among their own kindred than among strangers. 
Bishop Thoburn told me that the converts connected with the 
Methodist Society exceed 55,000. Dr. Parker thinks that at least 
90,000 have broken away from idolatry. 

The Madura mission of the American Board was established in 
1836. Two men came from Ceylon to occupy a field as large as 
Massachusetts. These two were soon joined by several others. 
The present staff consists of thirteen missionaries, sixteen assistant 
missionaries, 543 native agents. Schools have been opened for 
girls and boys. Teachers and preachers are trained for service. 
Hospitals and dispensaries have been provided for the sick. 
Twenty-eight Bible women are employed. They meet with many 
rebuffs. The people whom they seek to help and bless say, "It is 
not our custom to learn to read; it is not our custom to sing." 
Custom in India is law. Miss Swift gives an account of what these 
women meet. One enters a house and her pupil says, " O, I can't 
study to-day ! We are in such distress, we haven't eaten anything 
to-day ! Early this morning a cat jumped in at one window and 
out at the other ! We are quite sure it must have been a demon, 
and something terrible is going to happen." Some hill people said 
to a missionary, "We die like beasts, and are buried like dogs; 
ought you neglect us?" That is not the mental attitude of the 
majority of the people in India. Of almost every convert it can be 
said, "Is this not a brand plucked from the fire?" When we 
remember the obstinate opposition to Christianity it will be seen 
that the Madura mission has been eminently successful. The 
adherents number 14,810; tEe youths in school, 6,873. 

The work in Tinnevelly began more than a century ago. 
Schwartz sent his agents to preach the Gospel throughout all 
Southern India. In 1816 Chaplain Hough found three thousand 
Christians in Tinnevelly. He did what he could for them himself 
and applied to the Church Missionary Society for evangelists. 



252 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Two were sent out. Whole villages expressed a desire to be 
taught. As the years went on, the workers were reinforced. 
Schools of all kinds were opened. Workers were trained. The 
Gospel was preached far and wide. After a severe famine multi- 
tudes turned to the Lord. They were impressed and led to 
examine the claims of the Gospel by the kindness shown them in 
distress. The greatest success was in one caste, that of the pal- 
myra climbers. These people have been wonderfully improved 
since they accepted Jesus as their Savior and Lord. The Christian 
community connected with this society now numbers 55,571; the 
youth under instructions, 19,564. The Society for the Propaga- 
tion of the Gospel represents the same religious body and has 
worked in one part of this district since 1825. The success of this 
society has been almost as large as that of the Church Missionary 
Society. It reports 42,170 adherents, and 15,764 scholars. The 
converts of the two societies aggregate nearly one hundred thou- 
sand souls. The London Missionary Society has been at work 
among the same people and among their neighbors in Travancore. 
The place last named is the stronghold of Brahmanism in Southern 
India. At one festival the Maharajah officiates for a short time as 
one of the bearers of the palanquin of the chief Brahman. After 
doing so, he washes his feet and drinks some of the water. The 
London Society has 41,000 converts under its care, and 17,240 
pupils in its schools. 

Perhaps the work of the American Baptists among the Telugus 
is more widely known than any other work in India. This work 
began in 1840. Four years later a church of eight members was 
organized in Nellore. At the meeting of the Board in 1848, the 
question was, Shall the Telugu mission be continued or abandoned ? 
The decision was in its favor. Five years later the same question 
was discussed. The results had been discouragingly small. Some 
one proposed that Dr. Jewett be instructed to close the mission 
and remove to Burma. The Corresponding Secretary asked, 
" And who will write the letter ? And who will write the letter ? " 
His tone indicated that whoever would do so, he would not. One 
speaker referred to the mission as the one mission east of the Bay 
of Bengal. He spoke of it as the Lone Star Mission. The decision 
went over to the next day. That night Dr. S. F. Smith wrote the 
famous lines : 

" Shine on, Lone Star ! thy radiance bright 
Shall spread o'er all the Eastern sky ; 
Morn breaks apace from gloom and night ; 
Shine on and bless the pilgrim's eye. 




?j/v0e/qs-c°. $r-^'. 



G. W. Coffman, Damoh. 

Dr. A. C. and Dr. Lillian B. Miller, Bilaspur. 

WORKERS IN INDIA. 



LARGE INGATHERINGS IN INDIA 255 

" Shine on, Lone Star I I would not dim 
The light that shines with dubious ray ; 
The lonely Star of Bethlehem 
Led on a bright and glorious day. 

" Shine on, Lone Star ! in grief and tears 
And sad reverses oft baptized ; 
Shine .on amid thy sister spheres ; 
Lone Stars in heaven are not despised. 

"Shine on, Lone Star ! Who lifts his hand 
To dash to earth so bright a gem, 
A new ' lost Pleiad ' from the band 
That sparkles in night's diadem ? 

" Shine on, Lone Star ! The day draws near 
When none will shine more fair than thou ; 
Thou born and nursed in doubt and fear 
Wilt glitter on Immanuel's brow. 

" Shine on, Lone Star, till earth redeemed 
In dust shall bid its idols fall ; 
And thousands whom thy radiance beamed 
Shall crown the Savior Lord of all. " 

The poem saved the mission. It was unanimously resolved to 
reinforce the workers. Several years later, owing to a lack of suc- 
cess, the old question recurred. Dr. Jewett said that even if the 
Board declined to aid him, he would go back to live and die among 
the Telugus. Some said, "If that is your feeling, we must send 
some one back with you to give you Christian burial." John E. 
Clough was appointed to go with him. When the great famine 
came in 1876, relief works were opened. The missionaries did 
what they could to save the people alive. Mr. Clough was an 
engineer. He was asked to superintend the cutting of one section 
of the Buckingham Canal. While the men were eating and resting 
the native evangelists preached to them. For fifteen months there 
were no baptisms. It was not till the famine was over and no 
further pecuniary favors were expected that Mr. Clough consented 
to baptize any. He was afraid of unworthy motives. Again and 
again he told the people to go home and wait a few months longer. 
The time came when they would not hear his request for delay. 
They demanded baptism as their right. He and his associates 
began to examine them. - In six months 9,606 were baptized. 
There were 2,222 baptisms in one day. The work began at six in 
the morning. After prayer, two native evangelists took their place 
in the water. When they grew weary, two others relieved them. 
They rested from eleven till two, and at five they were done. Two 
men in eight hours baptized over two thousand. Had six officiated 



254 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

they could have completed the task in less than three hours. The 
people of one village asked for baptism. The missionaries tried to 
send them away. They said, "We don't want any money; we 
will not ask for any, either directly or indirectly, either now or 
hereafter. As we have lived thus far by our work, — by the blisters 
on our hands we can prove this to you, — so we will continue to live, 
or if we die we shall die, but we want you to baptize us." The 
result was that in three days there were 3,536 baptisms. In another 
field Dr. Clough visited ninety-eight villages and baptized 1,068. 
In the mission there are ninety-eight missionaries; 266 native 
preachers; eighty-three churches; 56,683 native Christians; 577 
schools, and 8,112 pupils in them. 

These large ingatherings are cheering, but we must not be cast 
down because there are not many of them. In most missions the 
results are quite as great as we have any reason to expect. If 
societies have reaped sparingly, it is because they sowed sparingly. 
If we will strengthen the staff of workers and supply their needs, 
we shall see most gratifying returns. Nothing can be truer than 
the words of Carey, " We are sure to take the fortress, if we can 
but persuade ourselves to sit down long enough before it. We 
shall reap if we faint not." 



XLI. 
THINGS INDIAN. 

One is surprised to find the skin of the people so dark. For- 
eigners speak of them as if they were negroes. This is a mistake. 
They are black, or nearly so, but their features are unlike those of 
the negro. They belong to the Aryan race. They are of the same 
stock as the nations of Europe. Some are darker than others. 
The aborigines are, as a rule, the darkest; the Brahmans are the 
fairest. The color of these people is due to the climate. The 
aborigines live more in the open air than the Brahmans, and conse- 
quently are darker. The Jews in India are much swarthier than in 
Europe or America. Most of the sheep -are black. 

Children wear little or no clothing. Boys and girls go about the 
streets and attend Sunda} 7 -school as naked as when they were born. 
They may have on a bracelet or anklet or ear-ring or nose-ring, but 
nothing in the way of clothing. Like our first parents, they are 
naked and not ashamed. Working people wear scant covering. A 
loin-cloth costs not over three cents. Nothing more is needed for a 
man. He needs neither hat nor shoes. Working women wear 
more than men, but not much. Ten cents would pay for an aver- 
age outfit. As for changes of style to accord with the season, that 
is something of which they have never heard. The poor sleep at 
night in the clothes they wore during the day. Servants sleep at the 
doors in the halls and on the verandas, or wherever they can find 
room to stretch their wearied bodies. Rich people spend more 
thought and money on dress. They delight in bright colors. In 
Calcutta and elsewhere one sees men dressed in green, or blue, or 
white, or red, or yellow, or crimson. Men go about in the heat of 
the day with no covering on their heads. This would be fatal to an 
American. The natives are used to the sun and do not mind its 
fiercest rays. The climate -of India is warm, and clothing is not 
needed as a protection, as it is in the north. 

The common people live in clay or stone buildings. They spend 
most of their time in the open air. The cooking is done out of 
doors. In the rains the family sleep in the house, the rest of the 
year they sleep outside. In winter they sit in front of the house to 

255 



256 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

keep warm. The heat comes from the sun. The houses have 
no furniture. A bed is a luxury. It costs fifteen cents. There are 
no tables or chairs. There is no carpet on the floor and no paper or 
pictures on the wall. Knives and forks and spoons are not con- 
sidered among the necessaries. The rich keep their women indoors. 
Those who wish to be fashionable do the same. I was in the house 
of one man of wealth and social position. I cannot say that I 
envied him his home. Americans study comfort and conveniences 
as no other people on the globe. One of our mechanics has more 
of both in his house than an Indian Maharajah has or than Solo- 
mon in all his glory had. 

Mechanics sit at their work. This is true of the blacksmith, the 
carpenter, the stonecutter, and the carriage-maker. Bricklayers sit 
on the wall as they build. Those that carry mortar and brick stand, 
but no workmen do this if they can possibly sit. The barber sits 
and his victim sits opposite him. They look like a pair of fighting 
cocks. People sit in the bazars and in the stores to sell goods. 
Neighbors sit and gossip. They never seem to grow weary or change 
their positions. When they talk they sit on their heels; they do not 
sit on chairs or on the ground. They might work to better advan- 
tage and accomplish more if they stood on their feet, but they are 
never in a hurry. Time is nothing. What cannot be done to-day 
can be done to-morrow. It is a matter of no consequence if it is 
never done. 

The tools used are of the most primitive character. The plow 
only tickles the ground. Their animals are not strong enough to 
go down deep. They cut with a sickle. In one field I counted sixty 
persons. The threshing is done with oxen. They spin with the 
rudest kind of a wheel. They never heard of the spinning-jenny. 
If they have they have no desire to adopt it. They prefer that to 
which they and their ancestors have been accustomed for ages. 
They do not use as simple a thing as a wheelbarrow. Instead they 
use a basket and carry it on their heads. They use a long hoe 
instead of a shovel. Water is drawn by hand, and not by pumps. 
The people are conservative and reject our Western inventions. 
They admit that these things may be very good for us, but they do 
not want them. Labor is abundant and cheap. They have no 
capital to invest in machinery. 

The people of India delight in jewels. Long before children 
begin to wear any clothing, they wear necklaces. Women wear 
rings on their ankles and toes and arms and in their ears and noses. 
The girls that cut grass in the jungles and sell it wear a dozen rings 



THINGS INDIAN 257 

on their arms. Their anklets are often large and cumbersome. 
Men wear ear-rings and nose-rings so large that they will go over 
their heads. You will find bells on horses and bullocks. Most of 
these jewels are glass or iron or some other cheap metal. Yet the 
people are as pro ad of them as if they were children. India has 
more goldsmiths than blacksmiths. Much of the wealth of a pros- 
perous family is put into jewels. These can be easily hid or sold in 
case of need. These are the last things that the family will sell. 
One officer in the famine district was telling me that the people 
could not be very poor as they had been sending considerable 
amounts of gold to London. A missionary said that that meant 
that they were in the last ditch. It was an indication, not of wealth, 
but of extreme need. 

They wash their clothing in a peculiar way. They have no steam 
laundries. There is one caste that does all the washing. Wherever 
you see a river or lake or pond you will find some men of this caste 
at work. They stand in the stream while they pursue their calling. 
They do not use hot water. They have a flat stone and they beat 
the clothing on this stone. They have a kind of soap or some sub- 
stitute for soap. In this process the clothes are washed clean. At 
the same time they are cut worse than in a hotel laundry. 

Women work on buildings and in the fields as men do. They 
draw water, mix and carry mortar and brick and stone. They help 
to make the roadbeds for railways. They go into the jungles and 
collect fuel and bear it on their heads to the bazars. They reap in 
time of harvest. They are paid less than men. Not being so strong, 
perhaps they do not do so much. 

The number of servants in a European household surprises a 
stranger. This is an old custom and it cannot be changed. One 
servant cooks, another sweeps, another carries water, another cuts 
grass for the bullocks, another washes, another sews, another waits 
on the table, another looks after the children. An ordinary family 
needs ten servants and cannot get along with less. One will do one 
thing and on no account will he do anything else. These are paid 
from ten to five rupees a month. A rupee is worth less than thirty 
cents. On this small sum they support themselves and families. 
One good servant in America will do as much as the ten and give 
better satisfaction, and will cost about as much. The foreigners can 
not do differently. They take things as they find them. Some 
have tried to get on with one or two servants and found it impos- 
sible. It is not strange that the people are poor. If ten men, in 
order to observe caste regulations, do the work of one, they must 

17 



258 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

divide the wages of one among themselves. They are only playing 
at work. There is little manufacturing done in India. The people 
hold to the old methods, foolishly thinking that machinery would 
make havoc of all their social arrangements and throw multitudes 
out of work. It might do this for a time, but after a little it would 
increase their wealth at a rate that would astonish their political 
economists. 

The hours of eating are unlike ours. In the hotels in Calcutta 
and Bombay you can have tea and toast and fruit in bed at any 
hour. Breakfast is served at half-past eight, tiffin at half-past 
one, tea at four, and dinner at eight. The missionaries have the 
small breakfast of tea and toast about seven. They work till nearly 
noon and then have breakfast. In the heat of the day they relig- 
iously keep out of the sun. They have dinner at six, and may have 
tea in the afternoon. The people of India eat twice in the day. 
They have one full meal and one luncheon. Their main article of 
food is rice. In addition they eat bread and sweets. Most of them 
lie down and rise up hungry. They are better off than ever before, 
but their condition is pitiable. There is always famine somewhere. 
The government opens relief works and remits taxes. Men are 
paid less than four cents a day and women less than three. This is 
all they have to keep their families on. 

India is the paradise of idolatry. In Athens it was easier 
to find a god than a man. The same is true here. India has 
a population of 287,000,000 and 330,000,000 objects of worship. 
There are sacred plants and trees. The people hang rags and 
bits of paper on the branches. Under the trees there are stones 
painted red. They pour water or scatter leaves and flowers 
over the symbols of deity. Much of their worship is inde- 
cent. Most of it is unworthy of human beings. They worship 
birds and beasts and creeping things. The monkey is a god. In 
Benares there is a temple set apart to monkeys. The cow is spe- 
cially sacred. One of their grievances against the English is that 
they kill the cow and eat her flesh. There is a society whose aim is 
the protection of the cow. Its agents preach in the bazars and 
carry on their propaganda everywhere. The purpose of this wor- 
ship is, not to make the worshipers pure' and perfect, but to ward off 
some peril or evil, or to secure some coveted good. Of India it can 
be said that darkness covers the land, and gross darkness the people. 
The Hindus are wholly given to idolatry. The men on the streets 
have marks on their foreheads or breasts or arms. These marks 
are made of red or white clay or paint. Some are parallel lines, 



THINGS INDIAN 259 

others are in the form of a trident. They have been to the river 
and bathed and worshiped, and the marks are to certify to this fact. 
An expert can tell the god they worship by looking at these marks. 

The roads are very good. The English built them. They will 
last for ages. All through India, in the towns and along the roads, 
there are government bungalows. In these there are places where 
you can spread your bed and sleep. Food can be had at moderate 
prices. The Hindus do not want people to enter their homes. The 
shadow of a stranger would defile their meat and drink. They have 
■serais in which their own people can sleep, but they make no pro- 
vision for other travelers. At all the railway stations one can get 
food and a place to sleep. In India, as in Japan and China, every 
traveler carries his own bedding. The government provides a cot 
and he finds the rest. These bungalows are a great convenience. 
The railways are not managed like ours. The conductor does not see 
that you get on or get off at the right station. He does not collect 
the tickets. His business is to see that the train runs on time. As 
you get off the station-master collects the tickets. The door is 
locked while the train is in motion. One can be fined for getting 
off before it stops. Ice-water is sold to passengers. In the first 
and second-class coaches one can sleep on the seats. There is no 
extra charge for this. There are no sleeping cars. 

Every native carries a brass vessel when he travels. This is 
called a "lota." In it he carries water to drink or to wash in. 
Water men with pigskins go up and down the platform with water 
for passengers. The natives get what they want from them or from 
a pump on the grounds. In the morning they go out and wash. 
They use sand instead of soap. No Hindu goes anywhere without 
his lota. He takes it with him to the Ganges and carries home 
water to drink. 

The country is poor. In no city, aside from Calcutta, Bombay 
and Madras, did I see any signs of wealth. There is famine all the 
time in some parts. The people are not provident. They spend much 
on silly customs. Marriages are a great tax. Feasts must be given 
and presents must be made. The people bury money. They are 
afraid to trust the banks or to loan it at interest. Agriculture is the 
main source of wealth. There is little mining or manufacturing. 

The women of India are degraded. The caste women are shut 
up and know nothing of what is going on in the world. The out- 
caste women have more freedom, but they are just as ignorant and 
superstitious. On two things all Hindus are agreed, namely, " The 
-cow is a sacred animal: woman is an unclean animal." In ancient 



260 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

times it was not so. Then she was not married in infancy and with- 
out any choice in the selection of a husband. She was married at a 
reasonable age, and it was her privilege to choose the man to whom 
she was to be joined in wedlock. If her husband died she could 
marry again. One of the poets said, 

e 'A wife is half the man, his truest friend — 
A loving wife is a perpetual spring 
Of virtue, pleasure, wealth ; — a faithful wife 
Is his best aid in seeking heavenly bliss, 
A sweetly-speaking wife is a companion 
In solitude ; a father in advice ; 
A mother in all seasons of distress, 
A rest in passing through life's wilderness." 

Since then her lot has been changed for the worse. She is mar- 
ried in infancy. She has no voice in the selection. No matter how 
debauched and unfaithful a husband may be, his wife is taught to 
revere him as a god. Until recently if he died she was burned alive 
with his body. She was taught that she would have 45,000,000 years 
of bliss with her husband after being burned with him. Even now 
she may not marry. Being a widow, her jewels are stripped off, her 
delicate clothing is taken away. She must eat one meal a day only, 
and twice a month she must fast. She is made a drudge and regard- 
ed as a harlot. She regrets that she can not be burned and escape a 
world of misery and disgrace. 

The most peculiar thing in India is caste. Many centuries ago 
the people were divided into four classes. The priests, or Brahmans, 
sprang from the head of Brahm, the soldiers from his shoulders, the 
cultivators of the soil from his thighs, and the Sudras or servants 
from his feet. The priests became the dominant class. They 
taught the others that they existed by their permission and to min- 
ister to their needs. The three highest castes wear the sacred thread, 
and are known as the twice-born. There are many sub-divisions 
of each caste. The Sudras now rank pretty high. Beneath them 
are the out-castes. The Brahmans still hold that they are to be 
regarded as supreme divinities. The people delight to honor them. 
A low caste man will go up to a Brahman with a basin of water. 
The Brahman will thrust his foot into the water, and the low caste 
man will go away and drink it. A Hindu may believe anything and 
do anything; he may be an atheist, a pantheist, a polytheist; he 
may be guilty of lying, theft, uncleanness, or murder, provided he 
holds fast to caste and worships the Brahmans. Let him have all 
the virtues and yet go to England, or eat beef, or dine with a person 
of another caste, or marry a widow, or even take a glass of water 




LEPERS IN HURDA, INDIA. 




PREPARING To BI'KX THE DEM). 



THINGS INDIAN 261 

from the hand of a Christian, and he is put out of caste at once. 
He may be restored by taking penitential pills made from the five 
products of the cow and paying the Brahmans handsomely. Caste 
is a curse. It prevents any aspiration. One can never rise out of 
the sphere into which he was born. It stifles compassion. Men 
going along a road may find a man smitten with disease and dying; 
he may -ask for a drink of water; they pay no more attention than 
if he was a dog. He may be an out-caste; if so his presence is 
a pollution, and they will not play the part of the good Samaritan. 
This evil system is doomed. God is smiting it with both hands and 
it cannot long survive. As one of her own sons has said, *' India 
belongs to Christ, and he alone shall have it." Everything in India 
"that is bad in custom, false in creed, and all that makes the boor 
and mars the man, shall pass away forever." 



XLIL 
FEOM CEYLON TO AUSTRALIA. 

Ceylon has been called a pearl-drop on the brow of the Indian 
Continent. Its greatest length is from north to south, and meas- 
ures 270 miles. Its greatest breadth is 140. Its area is 25,000 
square miles. Four-fifths of the island are comparatively level; 
one-fifth is mountainous. Lying wholly within the tropics, Ceylon 
is clothed with perennial green. The verdure extends from the 
tops of the mountains to the sea. Rice is the principal grain. 
Among the fruits are oranges, bananas, guavas, mangoes, cocoa- 
nuts. It is said that the cocoanut trees number 30,000,000. There 
are a hundred uses to which this tree may be put. The leaves, 
stems of the leaves, sap, nuts, oil, shell of the nut, fibre and trunk, 
are all utilized. The palmyra is scarcely less useful. From it the 
natives draw their toddy, make their oil, kindle their fire, carry 
their water, store, cook, and sweeten their food. From this tree 
they build entire houses. Cinnamon was once the leading article of 
commerce: it is now the fifth on the list. At one time coffee was 
by far the most valuable of all the exports; it is so no longer. 
Tea is now the chief product. The crop of one year is worth 
25,000,000 rupees. The cinchona tree, from whose bark quinine is 
made, is also grown extensively and yields a handsome profit. The 
population numbers 3,007,789. Of these two-thirds are Singha- 
lese, 750,000 are Tamils, or Malabars, 200,000 are Arabs, 18,000 are 
Berbers, 10,000 Malays and 5,000 are Europeans. The last- 
named class, though the smallest numerically, is incomparably the 
most influential and the most useful. 

The Portuguese discovered Ceylon in 1505. Thirteen years 
later they settled on the island and built forts to protect their inter- 
ests. The natives deemed it prudent to maintain friendship with a 
people armed with guns that could send balls for leagues and then 
break castles of marble or iron. It was not long till the principal 
king became a vassal of Portugal and agreed to pay an annual 
tribute of cinnamon, rubies, sapphires and elephants. Within 
eighty years after their first visit, the Portuguese were the undis- 
puted masters of all the maritime provinces. Meanwhile, the 

262 



FROM CEYLON TO AUSTRALIA 263 

followers of Xavier were busily engaged seeking to win the people 
to the Catholic faith. In a few years almost the whole population 
professedly gave up idolatry and were baptized. One of the local 
kings called in the Dutch to aid in conquering and expelling the 
Portuguese. In return for their assistance, the Dutch were to have 
the sole trade in pepper and cinnamon. The Dutch drove out the 
Portuguese ; not content with that, they made themselves masters of 
the people whom they came to deliver. Being Protestants, they 
undertook to bring all the people to the acceptance of their faith. 
No native could hold office or rent land who was not a member of 
some Protestant church. As a result, several hundred thousand 
people became nominal Christians. Even Brahmans made a pro- 
fession of conversion. The English appeared on the scene in 1589. 
When war broke out between England and Holland, in 1705, the 
Dutch lost their hold on Ceylon. It was not until 1815 that the 
whole island became a British possession. It is now a crown 
colony. Since the advent of the English, roads and railways have 
been built, schools have been established, and many other improve- 
ments have been introduced. The English attitude toward religion 
is that of absolute neutrality. The spread of the Gospel has been 
left to private enterprise. The Baptists began work in 1812; the 
Wesleyans in 1814; the American Board in 1816; the Church 
Missionary Society in 1818; the Society for the Propagation of the 
Gospel in 1840. At the present time the Catholics number 215,000; 
Protestants, 68,000. The missionaries and ministers number 422. 
Notwithstanding all that has been done, one-half the population 
are Buddhists; 500,000 are Hindus, and 200,000 are Mohammedans. 
The Buddhist priests number 6,279. Most of the people are 
demon-worshipers. They suppose that they are surrounded by 
evil spirits, who lurk behind rocks and trees seeking to do them 
harm. They believe that by flattery or force they can compel the 
gods to obey them. 

At Colombo we took the Himalaya for Australia. This ship 
belongs to the P. and O. Line. She is one of the largest and 
altogether the swiftest boat in the fleet. The first cabin is more 
stylish than the second, but is not any more comfortable. In the 
first the passengers are called to their meals with a bugle ; in the 
second with a bell. The food is the same. Some of the richest 
men on board are in the second cabin; some of the poorest are in 
the first. There are three bars, so that no one need go thirsty. I 
venture that the profit on liquor exceeds that on freight or on the 
passenger list. Concerts and sports help to break up the monotony 
and to pass the time. 



264 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Among the passengers is J. R. Mott, the General Secretary of 
the World's Student Christian Federation. He states that there 
are organizations for Christian work in five hundred of the leading 
colleges and universities in the United States and Canada. Over 
thirty-three thousand students and professors are united in this 
movement. More than thirty thousand young men have been led 
to accept Jesus Christ as Lord. The study of the Bible has been 
promoted. Not only so, but seventy thousand have been trained to 
work as Christian laymen, four thousand have been led to enter 
the ministry, and an equal number have been led to volunteer for 
work in the foreign field. This movement has extended to Great 
Britain, Germany, Scandinavia, Turkey, Syria, Egypt, South 
America, South Africa, Ceylon, India, China and Japan. He is 
going to Australasia to enlist the schools there. Mr. and Mrs. 
Bowie, of Aberdeen, are on the way to the New Hebrides to carry 
on the work of Paton and Geddie. Some are going to the gold 
fields of West Australia. Others are going out seeking fame or 
fortune in the great Southland. We have on board some of the 
best and a few of the worst people I have ever met. Two men and 
two women are drunk most of the time. One man was threatened 
with being put in irons if he did not conduct himself properly. 

While we were in the neighborhood of the equator the days 
were insufferably hot. The heavy awnings were some protection, 
but not much. As we steamed on we found the polestar getting 
lower, till it disappeared altogether. We were under a new sky. 
The sun was in the north. The farther south we went, the cooler 
was the atmosphere. The Southern Cross is a disappointment. It 
is neither so large nor so brilliant as I expected. The albatross 
followed us for days. What a graceful bird it is ! It seems to put 
forth no effort whatever. Its wings are motionless ; yet it ascends 
and descends, goes ahead or comes behind the swift ship. I have 
read on the voyage Coleridge's "Rime of the Ancient Mariner," 
and after seeing the albatross can understand his feeling that it 
was " a hellish deed " to shoot such a bird. It was fitting that his 
victim should be hung about his neck for days. The lesson of the 
poem is one that all would do well to take to heart. 

" He prayeth well, who loveth well 
Both man and bird and beast. 
He prayeth best, who loveth best 
All things both great and small ; 
For the dear God who loveth us, 
He made and loveth all." 




BENARES. INDIA. 




THE GREAT MOSQUE. DELHI, INDIA. 



FROM CEYLON TO A USTBALIA 265 

Ten days after leaving Colombo we entered King George's 
Sound and called at Albany to set down passengers and take on the 
mails. It is at Albany that men going to the gold fields of Coolgar- 
die leave the ship. They go the rest of the way by rail. Three 
days after leaving Albany we came to Adelaide. As we drew near, 
I was wondering if anyone would be on the dock to receive me. I 
had sent no positive promise that I would visit Australia. I had 
made up my mind to go to some hotel, and go to church the 
next morning and make myself known. Before we dropped anchor 
a boat came out to meet the ship. On the deck were T. J. Gore, 
D. A. Ewers, H. D. Smith, and A. C. Rankine. They were waving 
their hats and welcoming me to Australia. On the pier J. C. Dick- 
son and M. W. Green were waiting to repeat the welcome. Mr. 
Gore took me to his own house and made it my home while in 
Adelaide, and a most delightful and restful home it is. 



XLIII. 
ADELAIDE. 

Adelaide is a beautiful city. The streets are wide and straight, 
and well paved. Provision has been made for numerous parks. 
The government buildings, the university, and the business houses 
are worthy of the capital of a large and flourishing colony like 
South Australia. The homes remind one of the stately and happy 
homes of England, of which Mrs. Hemans sang so beautifully. 
Schools and churches abound. No one need grow here in ignor- 
ance, or be without religious privileges. On one side of the city is 
a high range of hills, on the other side is the sea. All the fruits and 
flowers that grow in Palestine grow here. Adelaide has no winter. 
The population is given as one hundred and thirty-four thousand. 

We arrived on Saturday. My first Sunday service was with 
the Unley Church. M. W. Green is the evangelist. He will be 
remembered by many in America. He visited many of our 
churches in the interest of a Bible College in Australia. His elo- 
quent addresses will not soon be forgotten. He was born in Man- 
chester, and emigrated to New Zealand. He was a builder and 
preacher for years. Because of his gifts as a public speaker, he 
was urged to give himself to the ministry of the Word and to 
prayer. He served the people of that colony in the pulpit and on 
the platform as a lecturer on temperance, and in Parliament. He 
was spoken of as " Green with a conscience." He met in debate 
and vanquished many a doughty champion of error. The church 
that morning was full. The singing was led by a trained choir, 
and was admirable. In the afternoon the Sunday-school, under 
the accomplished leadership of Mr. Ernest Green, gave a cantata, 
which was so much enjoyed that its repetition was called for. 

That evening I spoke in Grote Street. This is the oldest of the 
South Australian churches. The membership is about five hun^ 
dred. The buildings are large and convenient. T. J. Gore, the 
pastor, was born and raised in Kentucky. He came out here 
twenty-nine years ago. He has all the virtues of his native land 
and of the land of his adoption, and, so far as I could see, the 
vices of neither. His praises are heard on all sides. I found only 

266 



ADELAIDE 267 

one fault — he spends too much money on his guests. He is so 
obstinate in this that all appeals are in vain. Mrs. Gore is a 
daughter of the lamented Philip Santo. She is as good and as 
wise and as efficient as her husband, and that is saying much. The 
singing of the great audience was like the sound of many waters. 
It seemed to me that everybody sang. No one slept or manifested 
any sign of weariness. Young men and old men were present in 
force. Australia is the first place I have seen where the males out- 
number the females in the churches. Nothing could exceed the 
cordiality of the people. Hundreds came up to shake hands and 
to bid me welcome. My arm was wearied, but my spirit was 
refreshed. Their greeting was like that *of a Texas or a Missouri 
convention. 

On Monday evening we had a meeting in Norwood. A. C. 
Rankine is in charge there. He is an Australian, but was educated 
in Lexington. Many of the students of the Bible College will 
remember him and will be glad to hear of his good work. He began 
in Norwood seven years ago with twenty ; the church now has three 
hundred and fifty members. The building has been enlarged once 
or twice. It will have to be enlarged very soon, or the church 
must swarm. Though it was a week night, every seat was full. The 
people caught the enthusiasm of their leader. Because of his rep- 
resentations, they gladly came to hear of the work in the regions 
beyond. 

The next evening the Unley Church had its annual tea-meeting. 
This is an English institution, I believe. The people have tea at 
six. As soon as the tables are cleared the speaking begins. Mr. 
Green read the reports of the year. Addresses were made by J. 
Colbourne, J. C. Dickson, A. C. Rankine and William Burford. 
Mr. Burford had been the Sunday-school superintendent. The 
programme was so arranged that I should have all the time I 
wished. At all such meetings I have had the " right of way." The 
evening passed pleasantly. The congregation and members of 
other congregations and friends came together to renew or to form 
acquaintances and to rejoice over the progress of the work. It was 
a time for sociability and for instruction and worship. 

On Wednesday we had^ a service at Hindmarsh. This is the 
second largest church in Adelaide. Its register contains the names 
of over four hundred members. H. D. Smith is the preacher. He 
is the Secretary of the Foreign Committee, and is the friend and 
advocate of every good work. The night I was there he was absent 
at a wedding. Here, as elsewhere, people marry and give in mar- 



268 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

riage, no matter who speaks or what the subject of his speech. 
The large audience was a proof of the fact that the pastor's heart 
is in the cause of world-wide evangelism. Mr. Gore went with me 
and presided. At the close, the usual vote of thanks was proposed 
and carried. An Australian audience would think itself lacking in 
courtesy and kindness if this part of a service was omitted. 

One morning we went to Glenelg to call on William Burford. 
He is a friend of preachers, and is a liberal contributor to every 
worthy enterprise. He is the main support of the work in Glenelg. 
He supports Nathoo Lai in India, and one of the workers of the 
China Inland Mission. He and his family were preparing to start on 
a European tour. They expect to be gone a year or two. He goes 
in search of health. It is hoped by thousands that he will find it. 
He talks of visiting America. I trust he will do so. J. Colbourne 
has just taken the work at Glenelg. The church meets in a hall. 
Before long it will have a building of its own. Mr. Colbourne was 
born in England. He was a Baptist when he reached New Zealand. 
Here he fell in with M. W. Green and was led by him to unite with 
the Disciples of Christ. He studied under T. J. Gore and H. S. 
Earl. He says he owes more to Mr. Gore for the gentle and Christ- 
like spirit which he manifested and for his instruction, than to any 
other living man. He has preached around Adelaide, in Victoria, 
and in Sydney. 

Part of the day was spent in the home of A. T. Magarey on 
Mount Lofty. The name of his father, Thomas Magarey, is famil- 
iar to many in Europe and America. He is a man of mark. In 
any assembly he would be picked out as a man of exceptional abil- 
ity. He did much to plant and establish the cause in the Col- 
onies. In recent years he has left us and joined another com- 
munion, much to the regret of those who know his moral worth 
and his valuable services. He has two sons who are useful Chris- 
tian men. Dr. S. J. Magarey is a leading physician in Adelaide. 
He is a member of Parliament, and might have been a member of 
the Cabinet. He is an elder in Grote Street, and is faithful and 
diligent in that high office. A. T. Magarey is a business man, an 
antiquarian, a promoter of exploring expeditions, a preacher, and I 
know not what besides. His week days are full of work and care. 
He has charge of two churches, and preaches twice every Sunday. 
He is one of the best-informed and most entertaining men I have 
met. As was said of Burke, no one could be with him five minutes 
without learning that he was no ordinary man. Mrs. Magarey is a 




— - 



: 












i 



I 



A 










TBS •■'' « 

- 







ADELAIDE 269 

daughter of Col. Campbell, of Bethany. I knew her when a 
student, and was very pleased to meet her in her own home. 

It was not possible to speak for J. C. Dickson. I met him sev- 
eral times, and heard much about the work the Lord is doing 
through him. He and Dr. Verco carry on the work in North Ade- 
laide and in Prospect Street. Dr. Verco is the most distinguished 
physician in South Australia. Not only so, but he is one of the 
most active Christians in the colony. He manages his work so that 
he can attend church three times on Sunday, and preach once or 
twice, or oftener. He built the chapel in North Adelaide, and 
rents it to the church. He has paid for a chapel and a home for 
John Thompson, who is at work among the Kanakas in Queensland. 
I asked him how he was able to do so much Christian work. He 
said he saw his patients on Saturday and on Monday. They knew 
that he wanted Sunday for other duties. 

H. D. Smith informed me that we have twenty-seven churches 
in South Australia. In these there is a total membership of two 
thousand six hundred and twenty-one. There are seventeen Sun- 
day-schools, with one hundred and ninety teachers, and two thou- 
sand one hundred and forty-one scholars. Most of the churches 
have Endeavor Societies. There are eight of these churches north 
of Adelaide. G. D. Nesi is the evangelist in that district. Six are 
south of Adelaide. R. G. Cameron is the evangelist in charge. 
The churches in South Australia contribute to the work at home, 
to John Thompson, and to Mary Thompson, in Hurda. They give 
$1,200 for Foreign Missions. They are talking of sending another 
worker to India. Hindmarsh sent H. H. Strutton to Poona to 
work in an undenominational mission. Among the pioneers spoken 
of are J. C. Verco, W. H. Burford, Philip Santo, Dr. S. Kidner, 
John Chambers and Henry Warren. 

At the close of one service several came to me and thanked me 
for what I had said. Among those was one who said, " Do you 
know what I was thinking about all the time you were speaking?" 
Several thoughts passed through my mind. Perhaps he was think- 
ing of making a handsome offering to the work. Or perhaps some 
lofty sentiment stirred his soul. At the very least he was thinking 
of something complimentary to say about the address. Judge of 
my surprise when he said, " / was wondering whether you were 
chewing gum all the time you were speaking." He had heard that 
Americans chewed gum, and supposed that I was no exception. I 
left Adelaide for Sydney. On my return I am to deliver several 
addresses more. My visit will last only one month. I return on 
the ship on which I came. 



XLIV. 

FROM ADELAIDE TO SYDNEY. 

Australia is a place of magnificent distances. Sydney is over a 
thousand miles from Adelaide. Going by rail, one must needs pass 
through Melbourne. The train service is so arranged that passen- 
gers must rest in that city for seven hours. On my arrival at the 
station I was surprised beyond belief to find a committee waiting 
for me. The committee consisted of D. A. Ewers, Malcolm 
McLellan, A. B. Maston, F. G. Dunn, Isaac Selby, F. M. Lud- 
brook, Joseph Pittman, W. C. Thurgood and J. A. Davies. They 
took me to the Coffee Palace for breakfast. About forty men and 
women sat down and partook of the smoking and savory viands. 
After doing ample justice to the meat and drink the speeches began. 
D. A. Ewers, President of the Missionary Conference, presided. 
He called upon A. B. Maston to speak as an American; upon F. 
G. Dunn, as the representative of the press ; upon Isaac Selby, as 
the representative of the preachers; upon Mrs. Joseph Pittman, as 
the President of the Women's Conference; upon F. M. Ludbrook, 
as the representative of the Foreign Missionary Committee; 
upon James Tully, as President of the Sunday-school Union, 
and upon F. McClean, as Superintendent of the Chinese Mission, 
and upon Joseph Pittman to lead in prayer. Mr. Maston expressed 
a wish, in which all concurred, that more men from America would 
visit the colonies. He mentioned J. W. McGarvey as one of a 
class that would be particularly welcome, and that would do much 
good. Mr. Selby spoke of the Americans that had spent some time 
in Melbourne, and of the debt of gratitude which the churches owe 
them. These good men are held in loving remembrance. At the 
close, I was asked to say a few words. Being weary from traveling 
all night without sleep, and being taken unawares, and being 
bewildered by the reception accorded m,e, I tried to speak, but 
could only utter a few words in response. Out of the abundance of 
the heart the mouth speaks. Out of its superabundance the tongue 
stammers. After this performance was over, I was hurried off to 
be photographed for the public good. Then J. A. Davies took me 
home with him. He and Mrs. Davies had compassion on me, and 

270 



FROM ADELAIDE TO SYDNEY 271 

put me to bed for two hours. That evening I took the train for 
Sydney. I left Melbourne with the understanding that I was to 
return for the Victorian Conference, beginning on Good Friday and 
closing on Easter Monday. The conference is held at this time 
because it is a holiday season. 

It was nearly noon on Saturday when I reached Sydney. Here a 
dozen men and women were on the platform to take charge of me. 
Among the number was C. F. Forscutt. I knew him years ago 
when he was a student in the College of the Bible. He is now 
Principal and proprietor of the Rockdale College. He opened this 
school five years ago. He prepares young men for business careers 
and for the university. Mrs. Forscutt looks after the table and the 
beds and teaches music and some other branches. The school is 
flourishing. The Principal preaches on Sundays, but gives his time 
and strength to the college. His home was mine most of the 
time I was in Sydney. The first afternoon he took me in his car- 
riage to see Botany Bay. He pointed out the spot where Captain 
Cook landed when he discovered that part of the continent. 
Botany Bay- is a fine body of water, but Sydney Harbor is so much 
larger and better as a port that all ships go that way. 

On Sunday morning Mr. Forscutt took me to the Enmore 
church. This is the largest church in the colony. It has on its 
muster-rolls the names of three hundred and fifty members. The 
venerable and revered Dr. Joseph Kingsbury presided at the Lord's 
table. I was told that he had given two or three fortunes to the 
Lord's work. He is hale and hearty, an eloquent speaker, marvel- 
ously gifted in prayer, and manifestly a deeply religious man. On 
his snowy hair and beautiful character, the splendors of eternity 
are falling thick and fast. The Enmore church has been without a 
pastor for some time, consequently the audience was not large. 
There were about one hundred and fifty present. After the Lord's 
Supper I spoke for thirty minutes. We went home with John 
Bardsley to dinner. He is the Timothy Coop of New South 
Wales. He is a prosperous wholesale grocer. He has a large 
home and a large heart. Mrs. Bardsley was born in Scotland, and 
has the hospitality characteristic of her race. On Sunday their 
home is open to all comers. Food is provided in abundance and 
served without stint. These two good people are unspeakably 
happy when their long table has no vacant chair. In the afternoon 
we went out to the Public Domain. This is a favorite resort for 
speakers of every kind. The first speaker we heard was a woman 
belonging to the Church of England. She was preaching to a large 



272 A CIBCVIT OF THE GLOBE 

crowd. Her topic was the Words of Jesus on the Cross. Her spir- 
itual face and clear and tender voice added emphasis and charm to 
her words. Preachers representing nearly all the denominations 
were speaking. Advocates of temperance, politicians of different 
schools, Socialists and Anarchists, promoters of fads of every 
variety had their rostrums and their sympathizers or opponents. 
Preaching on the streets and in the parks is very common. That 
evening I spoke in the building just purchased by the church in the 
city. It was built by the Free Thought people, but they were not 
able to pay for it. The church bought it for less than half what it 
cost. It is a fine building. The auditorium will seat about 800. 
There is a large basement that can be used in many ways. There 
are all the separate rooms needed for Sunday-school and other 
purposes. The building is new, and has all modern comforts and 
conveniences. This church, like the church in Enmore, was with- 
out a pastor when I was there. I learned that George T. Walden 
was on his way from London to take the work at Enmore, and that 
P. A. Dickson was coming from Brisbane, in Queensland, to 
Sydney. Both these men are known by many in America. Under 
their ministry these churches are certain to enter upon careers of 
renewed prosperity. 

On Monday the women of New South Wales held their annual 
conference. They are not organized into auxiliaries as are the 
women at home. But they have an organization to whose funds 
the members are asked to contribute a penny a week. They do 
something for home missions. They do temperance and charitable 
work as well. Mrs. Clapham presided and did her duty gracefully 
and acceptably. Reports were read showing what progress had 
been made in the different departments. Business was transacted, 
papers were read, and appropriate songs were sung. At night the 
house was well filled. I was asked to tell something about the way 
the women in America did so much. I did so, and urged them to 
send some one of their own number to India or China. In no other 
way can they do so much to help the work at home. I think they 
will do this. 

The next morning Mrs. Forscutt and her sister took me to see 
Sydney Harbor. William Clapham and Robert Gilmore went with 
us. They are two faithful preachers. They know the place and 
the history of the work in the colonies, and were therefore intelli- 
gent and agreeable companions. Sydney Harbor is said to be the 
largest and grandest harbor on the globe. The fleets and navies of 
all nations could find room and shelter in its ample waters. The 



FROM ADELAIDE TO SYDNEY 273 

heads are high and bold, and are a mile apart. If one should 
undertake to walk round the bay he would have to travel two 
hundred miles. All the way down the guides pointed out the 
palatial homes of the city magnates. On the highest point is the 
Catholic College and the palace of Cardinal Moran. This harbor 
is one of the wonders of the world. It is as well worth seeing as 
Niagara or Mt. Everest. We steamed down for about seven miles. 
When we came to the swell of the ocean we turned aside to Manly 
Beach. We crossed the narrow neck of land and came to the 
ocean. Mrs. Forscutt had brought luncheon along. We sat down 
under the shade of a tree and partook of a bounteous repast. 
Towards evening we started towards home. We saw the magnifi- 
cent harbor again. It grew on us as we studied it. This day will 
ever stand out in my mind as a mountain peak stands out from a 
plain. We parted from Mrs. Forscutt with many expressions of 
sincere gratitude for the picnic she gave us. We took tea with 
Mr. and Mrs. Gole. He is the Secretary of the Foreign Mission 
Committee, and a very genial and intelligent man. At night there 
was a union service in the Enmore Church in the interest of world- 
wide evangelism. The audience was not so large as I had expected, 
but those that did come seemed deeply interested. The next morn- 
ing my friends of the day before took me to see the Botanical Gar- 
dens. There is an endless variety of tropical trees and flowers. 
The site slopes down to the bay. This is one source of their great 
charm. Sydney is a century old. It is laid out like a European 
city. The streets are narrow and crooked. This is especially true 
of the oldest part. It is a substantial city, and has a population 
of four hundred and twenty-one thousand and thirty. That even- 
ing I took the train for Melbourne. 

The first church established by the Disciples of Christ in New 
South Wales dates back to 1851. The leading men at that time 
were Albert Griffin, George Taylor, Henry Mitchell, Joseph Kings- 
bury and Edward and David Lewis. Dr. Kingsbury told me of his 
conversion. He heard a man preaching in the Park. He did not 
know his name, but he presented the truth so clearly that all 
doubts were removed. He went home in rapture and kissed his 
wife, and said: "Darling, Haave found that for which I have been 
seeking for ten years." He began to preach as soon as he was bap- 
tized. The church was spoken of as "Kingsbury's Mob." There 
are now twenty churches in the colony, with a total membership 
of two thousand and forty-two. There are seventeen Sunday- 
schools. In these there are eighty-eight teachers and eight 
18 



274 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

hundred and ninety-four scholars. The number of preachers is 
given as three. The churches are not growing as one could wish. 
In the absence of a sufficient number of able and educated men to 
give themselves wholly to the ministry, it is difficult to see how 
they can grow in numbers and in spiritual power. Our churches 
in America learned this lesson fifty years ago. 



XLV. 
THE VICTORIA MISSIONARY CONFERENCE. 

The first day of the Victoria Missionary Conference was occu- 
pied by the women. They met on Wednesday in Swanston Street 
Chapel to transact business and to render a very interesting pro- 
gramme. They are organized in the same way, and for the same 
purposes, as the women of New South Wales. They assist the cause 
of temperance ; do relief work such as is done by Dorcas societies ; 
visit prisons and hospitals, and contribute to the support of the 
evangelists in the home field. The young ladies are organized into 
bands. Last year the women gave $380 to Home Missions. In ten 
years they collected and disbursed $3,225. Mrs. Joseph Pittman is 
the Acting President and Miss Emma Hill is the Secretary. They 
are enthusiastic and efficient workers. Mrs. Antoinette K. Thur- 
good, of Pittsburg, is the perpetual Honorary President. She was 
the first to move in the matter of an organization, and keeps in 
touch with the society, though so far away. She is held in the very 
highest esteem by all for her worth and work. 

Thursday was devoted to temperance. By all accounts it was a 
field day for this most worthy cause. The large auditorium was 
comfortably filled during the day; at night it was packed. John 
Barnacle and W. J. Phillips were the leading spirits. At the even- 
ing service an address was made by a man who has been on the plat- 
form as a temperance advocate for over half a century. He is yet 
hale and hearty. The children gave an exercise that was greatly 
enjoyed. The principal address was given by A. R. Edgar, a Wes- 
leyan minister engaged in rescue work. He and his remarks called 
forth unbounded applause. In most of the churches in Melbourne 
and round about there are Bands of Hope. 

The Conference proper began its sittings on Good Friday. The 
address of the President, JD. A. Ewers, was brief and pithy, and 
was well received. He reviewed the work of the year, and called 
upon the churches to raise the standard of giving, and to do more 
in every direction. Though times are hard, he urged that all should 
take heart and hope, and make greater sacrifices, and put forth 
greater efforts. I caught two of his ringing sentences: "Any 

275 



276 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

so-called Restoration of Primitive Christianity which does not prom- 
inently develop the spirit of missionary self-sacrifice is deficient in 
its most vital element, however sound and orthodox it may be oth- 
erwise." "The avowed and supreme reason for our existence as 
a Conference is the extension of missionary work in order to the 
salvation of souls." The Secretary, Malcolm McLellan, had the 
Annual Report printed and distributed in advance. It was not read 
as a whole and referred to committees, as at home. Each para- 
graph was read and discussed separately. Most of the speakers 
were not evangelists. The discussions were more protracted than 
in our conventions in America. Three men had been kept in the 
field throughout the year. Their names are : W. D. Little, Thomas 
Hager, and G. H. Browne. They were present and supplemented 
the report with verbal statements. The whole amount raised by the 
churches for Home Missions was $2,483. The year closed with a 
deficit, but it was so small that no one was distressed by it. One 
evening there were several addresses on Home Missions. D. M. 
McCrackett spoke on " The Author of the Gospel; " W. D. Little, 
on "The Definition of the Gospel; " Isaac Selby on "The Object 
and Power of the Gospel; " and Joseph Pittman on " The Condi- 
tions and Promises of the Gospel." The Conference has under 
consideration the establishment of a Church Extension Fund. A. 
B. Maston offered to visit all the churches in Victoria during the 
year in the interest of missions on condition that his traveling 
expenses were paid. He is the manager of the Austral Publishing 
Company, and preaches on Sundays. He is not a millionaire, and 
if he did not have a great soul and a good wife, he could not make 
such a generous tender of service. 

The report of the Victoria Biblical Institute was discussed at 
considerable length. The Principal, J. K. Henshelwood, stated that 
there were thirty-two young men enrolled; of these only one is pre- 
paring for the ministry. He made an eloquent appeal on* behalf of 
the Institute. The discussion was somewhat acrimonious. Unfor- 
tunately, the Principal does not command the undivided confidence 
and support of the brethren. It is clear that the Colonies should 
be preparing a larger number of consecrated young men to preach 
the Gospel. Several religious bodies have built schools near the 
University, and so get the advantage of that great institution. The 
reports bearing upon the hymn-book, on temperance, and on Sun- 
day-school work, were read and emphasized. 

The election of officers occupied a whole afternoon. Nomina- 
tions were made in open Conference. When the ticket was com- 




1. T. J. Gore, Adelaide. 

4. Mrs. J. A. Davies, Melbourne. 

5. Isaac Selby, Melbourne. 

AUSTRALIAN FRIENDS 



2. A. C. Rankin, Adelaide. 

3. J. A. Davies, Melbourne. 
6. Dr. Joseph Verco, Adelaide. 



THE VICTORIA MISSIONARY CONFERENCE. 277 

plete the balloting began. They are familiar with our method of 
having a special committee to nominate officers, but they prefer 
their own, and desire no change. To many this is the most inter- 
esting part of the programme. Nevertheless, it is a trifle monoto- 
nous and wearisome to one accustomed to see a ticket elected in as 
many minutes as here it requires hours. As business increases, and 
time becomes more precious, some more expeditious way will be 
adopted. 

One sitting was devoted to foreign missions. Miss Mary Thomp- 
son sent a report and a letter to be read. G. L. Wharton sent an 
address. Miss Thompson went from Melbourne. She was a mem- 
ber of the Collingwood Church. Milner 'Black was the preacher in 
charge at the time. It was largely through him that she was led to 
volunteer. John Thompson sent an account of his work among the 
Kanakas in Queensland. The Kanakas are natives of the islands in 
the South Seas. They have been brought to Australia to work on 
the sugar plantations. Mr. Thompson has been engaged in this 
work for eight years. Half of the time he has worked at his own 
expense. He has led seventy-three to Christ. He reports thirty- 
three meetings in the district each week. Recently four have gone 
out as missionaries. One was sent to the New Hebrides and three 
to the Solomon Group. Ferdinand Pittman gave a racy account of 
his experience as a worker among these people. He spoke in high 
praise of the faith and zeal of the converts. The Chinese Mission 
School gave an exercise. This school is under the superintendence 
of F. McClean. Sam Ah Wong gave an address. It fairly bristled 
with good points. No other address was more vigorously applauded. 
The Conference raised $1,214 for Foreign Missions in the year. 

The Conference Essay was written and read by F. G. Dunn. His 
theme was "Our Position and Mission." He set forth the things 
that are most surely believed amongst us. He alluded to the com- 
munion and money questions, taking the ground held by many in 
the Colonies. He filed his objections against the Endeavor Society. 
He found fault with the pledge, and with associate membership. 
In the discussion that followed some favored the essay throughout, 
and expressed a wish that it might be published as an authoritative 
statement of what the Disciples of Christ believe and teach. Oth- 
ers declared that the essay, as a whole, did not embody their con- 
victions. The Endeavor cause had its champions. All agreed that 
the essay was an able production. The author is the editor of the 
Australian Christian Standard. He is a man of scholarly tastes 
and wields a trenchant pen. Whoever crosses swords with him will 



278 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

find a foeman worthy of his steel. The Conference Sermon was 
preached by Isaac Selby. He spoke on " The Kingdom of God." 
He took the position that the kingdom of God was historically man- 
ifested in three forms: As the kingdom of Israel, as the Church of 
Christ on earth, and as the Church triumphant. Mr. Selby is the 
pastor of the Lygon Street Church. He is a speaker of marvelous 
fluency. He spent several years on the Free Thought platform. He 
has been with us seven years. He knows why he is where he is. 
He talks of visiting America. If he comes he will be warmly 
received. Mrs. Selby was reared a Catholic. She, too, has been on 
the platform as an advocate of Free Thought principles, and as an 
opponent of the faith in which she was born. She has the wit of 
the Irish race. A visit to their home is an event, and is sure to be 
followed by many sunny memories. 

Monday was wisely given up to a picnic. But even at the annual 
picnic the Anglo-Saxon love of religious discussion was manifested. 
A wagon was used as a platform. A chairman was appointed and 
rules adopted. The Essay and Sermon were discussed in all their 
bearings. After the brethren had exhausted these subjects, one or 
two men came forward to exploit their pet fads. I listened for a 
time, and then turned aside to see some girls skip. The graceful 
skipping of the girls was more edifying than the advocacy of some 
novel and inconsequential negations. Bodily exercise profits little, 
but some religious controversies profit nothing. 

I blush to think of the number of speeches I made in the Con- 
ference. Every sitting some one wanted to hear from me. The 
audience was pleased to listen to all I had to say. I do not suppose 
that every soul present believed every word I said; in fact, one or 
two told me that they did not. But I am convinced that on the 
points of difference the majority of the people were with me. In 
any event, I can bear witness that at no convention anywhere have 
I been listened to more sympathetically or with more demonstra- 
tions of approval. I was told that in Australia there is no opposi- 
tion to missions or to missionary societies. The most conservative 
believe in both as heartily as any others. The conservatism that 
exists here operates in other directions. As most that 1 had to say 
related to the evangelization of the world, I had the moral support 
of all. But there were those who wanted to know what the breth- 
ren in America held on the points that are in dispute here. After 
hearing all I had to say, the Swanston Street Church, the most con- 
servative church in the colony, gave me a call. When the ortho- 



THE VICTORIA MISSIONARY CONFERENCE. 279 

doxy of the American brethren was challenged, I pointed to this 
call as the most triumphant refutation imaginable. 

On Tuesday evening the cantata, entitled "Jacob and Esau," 
was rendered by three hundred voices, under the leadership of Fer- 
dinand Pittman. The audience filled the large building, and hun- 
dreds were turned away. The cantata closed the Conference. 



XL VI. 

A BEIEF CAMPAIGN IN MELBOURNE AND VICINITY. 

A special committee arranged a series of meetings for me in 
and about Melbourne. On Tuesday evening I went to Doncaster. 
This is the home of D. A. Ewers. He is the minister of the church, 
editor of the Pioneer, and the friend and champion of every 
worthy enterprise. His friends think he is doing too much. That 
evening the Mission Band invited the officers of the church to take 
tea with me in the vestry. After tea we had a service in the chapel. 
Doncaster Mission Band supports Jeremiah in Hurda. Some of 
them wish he had a more cheerful name. But if they saw his bright 
face and heard his hopeful words, they would be satisfied. The 
next evening there was a meeting at Cheltenham. This is another 
suburb with a prosperous church of one hundred and fifty mem- 
bers. G. B. Moysey is the evangelist. He is a man of ability and a 
diligent student. The meeting was well advertised. The people 
came out to hear what I had to say about world-wide evangelism. 
On Thursday night it was arranged that I should visit the Chinese 
Mission School. F. McClean is the superintendent. The register 
contains thirty-five names ; of these five are Christians. There is 
a teacher for each pupil. The class meets three times a week. The 
superintendent read a brief and cordial address of welcome. Short 
addresses were made by Thomas Hager, F. M. Ludbrook and Isaac 
Selby. There was a Bible lesson, and then a lesson in English. The 
boys prepared refreshments for the large company present. This 
school is one of the most Christlike and encouraging things I have 
seen in Australia. The boys write home and tell their parents and 
friends of what the church is doing for them. The people at home 
will get a better conception of the spirit of Christianity than they 
would otherwise. The missionaries will find that their lives and 
property are more secure, and their work more fruitful, because of 
the work done in this upper room in Lygon Street. 

The next day there were two services. The women met in 
Swanston Street and wanted an address. I spoke to them about 
the way the sisters in America are organized for missionary work, 
and told them of what they have done and are doing. 1 urged 

280 



A BRIEF CAMPAIGN IN MELBOURNE AND VICINITY. 281 

them to effect a similar organization in the colonies. That night 
there was a service in North Fitzroy. The audience, the singing 
and the attention were all that could be desired. Saturday was 
observed as a holiday. John A. Davies took Messrs. Maston, Selby, 
McLellan and myself to Ferntree Gully and Black Spur. He 
wished me to see something of the Australian bush and ferns and 
big trees. After a ride of four hours in the train we took a wagon 
and rode for twenty miles through the primeval forest. The trees 
are tall but not as large as those in Gippsland or as those in 
California, but they are large enough. The fern-trees are exceed- 
ingly beautiful. We saw tens of thousands of them. The day was 
delightfully spent. Our host insisted on paying all expenses. On 
the way home we passed a hearty vote of thanks to him for his 
kindness. As opportunity afforded I saw the public institutions of 
the city. Mr. Selby took me to see the Zoological Gardens and the 
University. We saw the kangaroo, the emu, the wild dog, and 
many of the birds belonging to this continent. He showed me the 
ornithorhynchus. This is one of the missing links in the Darwinian 
system. It lays eggs and suckles its young. It is partly bird and 
partly mammal and party reptile. Mr. Davies took me to see the 
Library, the Art Gallery, the Exposition Buildings and the Aqua- 
rium. From the main tower of the Exposition Buildings we saw 
the city in all its magnitude and glory, and the fertile country round 
about, and Port Philip in the distance. Mr. Dunn took me to see 
the Botanical Gardens. These institutions are worthy of " won- 
derful Melbourne." 

Sunday morning Mrs. Davies drove me to Collingwood. This is 
the home of Mary Thompson. Ferdinand Pittman is in charge of 
the work. Collingwood has the finest building in the city, but it is 
heavily burdened with debt. A. B. Maston was present and pre- 
sided, and, after service, took a number of us home to dinner. In 
the afternoon I spoke at North Carlton, and in the evening at 
Swanston Street. Sunday was a good day. At all the services I 
had "liberty" in speaking. The right words to express my 
thoughts came at my call. The eager and rapt attention was an 
inspiration. The next morning I called to see T. H. Jennings. He 
was in Bethany College in my time. He and Mrs. Jennings and 
their daughter made my short stay very pleasant. He attended all 
the meetings and helped me much by his presence and interest. 
That night I went to New Market. John Morris and his good wife 
are from Dundee. He manufactures shoes on a large scale, and 
preaches for the church. The singing was excellent, even for Aus- 



282 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

tralia, and that is saying much. On Tuesday morning I visited the 
mission training-school of Dr. and Mrs. Warren. They have ten 
young ladies in the class, and thirteen have gone out. They are in 
China, Japan and India. This work is a work of faith and love. 
The motto is, " My God shall supply all your needs according to 
his riches of glory." From the first there has been no debt and 
no lack of any good thing. Mrs. Warren and her pupils know how 
to sing and how to pray. They pray for the workers by name. They 
correspond with them, and so keep in touch with them and their 
work. In the evening I went out to Brighton with Dr. Ludbrook 
to tea. The large parlor was full of church people. They came to 
meet and talk with me, as I could not speak in that suburb. Dr. 
Ludbrook is a cousin of Sydney and Milner Black. His mother is 
a daughter of the sainted Mr. Wallis, of Nottingham, England. 
After tea we went to North Melbourne. D. M. McCrackett is the 
minister here. As a result of his enthusiasm and efforts we had a 
good audience and one of the best meetings in the series. On 
Wednesday night all the churches came together for a grand fare- 
well. An hour before this service those especially interested in 
the evangelization of the world met for a conference. Many ques- 
tions were asked and answered. At eight o'clock W. C. Craigie, 
the new President of the Conference, took the chair. After sing- 
ing and reading of the Scriptures, Joseph Pittman led in prayer. 
The chairman made a short talk, and then called on Brethren Dunn, 
Ewers, Moysey, Selby, Maston, Davies, Martin and Ludbrook. 
Mrs. Maston and Mrs. Ludbrook spoke for the women. Miss Nel- 
lie McClelland and Mrs. William Wilson sang solos, and added 
greatly to the joy of the feast. The speeches were kind and com- 
plimentary. One of the speakers said they did not all subscribe to 
everything I said, but the points of difference were few and of 
small moment when compared with those on which we were all 
agreed. A vote of thanks to the brethren in America, for enabling 
me to make this visit, was passed. Nor was this all. A generous 
sum of money was handed me toward the expense of the trip. The 
next morning I left Melbourne for Ballarat. A number of brethren 
came down to the train. I recall the names of C. G. Lawson, T. 
S. and Robert Lyall, A. B. Maston, F. G.'Dunn, Isaac Selby, W. J. 
Phillips, W. C. Thurgood, T. H. Jennings, M. McLellan, John 
Morris, D. M. McCrackett, W. C. Craigie, and Mr. and Mrs. J. A. 
Davies. Mr. Dunn gave me enough books to read till I should 
reach London. 

All the time I was in Melbourne, the home of Mr. and Mrs. 






A BRIEF CAMPAIGN IN MELBOURNE AND VICINITY 283 

Davies was mine. No weary pilgrim could wish to fall into better 
hands. Mr. Davies was born in Wales. He was a member of the 
church in New York when U. C. Brewer was pastor. He is now a 
prosperous merchant miller. Mrs. Davies was born in the colonies 
and educated in Scotland. Their home was to me like rivers of 
water in a dry place, as the shadow of a great rock in a weary land. 
They went with me to all the meetings and paid all expenses. Not 
a day passed that they did not present me with a book or some 
other object of value. Their generosity reminded me of the 
words, " All that I have is thine." The Lord bless them and keep 
them. The Lord make his face to shine upon them and be gra- 
cious to them. The Lord lift up the light of his countenance upon 
them and give them peace. The hospitality of the people was 
boundless. My limits will not permit me to mention the names of 
those who fed me and ministered to my needs. But if I forget 
their kindness, may my right hand forget its cunning. 

The work in Melbourne began in 1853. John Ingram, T. S. 
Lyall and H., G. Picton and their wives met to break bread. After 
six months they moved to Prahran. Here they worshiped in a tent 
and in a brickyard. The next year they returned to Melbourne. 
They met in a building down a narrow passage. The preachers 
announced the meeting, and sat down to wait for an audience. One 
evening the hour passed and no one came. Suddenly many foot- 
steps were heard approaching. The preachers waited anxiously for 
their hearers, when in marched two goats. They looked up and 
said: "Ma, ma." The preachers laughed heartily, and decided 
not to preach. There are now twenty-seven churches in and about 
Melbourne, with 3,309 members. There are fifty-nine country 
churches with an aggregate membership of 1,816. Eobert Service 
was a pillar in the church for twenty-five years. One of his sons 
has been Premier of Victoria. 



XL VII. 

FROM MELBOURNE TO THE SHIP. 

Ballarat is a prosperous city with a population of forty thou- 
sand. It was here that gold was discovered in 1851. The output 
of gold in Victoria since that time considerably exceeds a billion 
dollars; the output of all Australasia exceeds two billions. Bal- 
larat has had many public-spirited citizens. The monuments of 
their liberality are seen on all sides. They made their money easily 
and spent it generously. Charles Martin met me at the train. He 
was born in England, and has been in Ballarat since 1857. He has 
been a teacher in the public schools. His pupils are in all parts of 
the world. He is now on the retired list and receives a pension. 
He preaches for one of the churches in the city. As he advances 
in life, he thinks more and more of the lines of Trench: 

"I say to thee, do thou repeat 
To the first man thou mayest meet, 
In lane, highway, or open street, 
That he, and we, and all men move 
Under a canopy of love, 
As broad as the blue sky above. 
And ere thou leave him, say thou this, 
Yet one word more : They only miss 
The winning of that perfect bliss 
Who will not count it true that love- 
Blessing, not cursing — rules above." 

As I arrived early, my guide took me to the Art Museum and to 
several of the mines. The ground under Ballarat is honeycombed. 
The mining proceeds and the supply of gold is as great as ever. In 
the evening we had a service in the Dawson Street Chapel. After 
an hour's address many said they were surprised when I stopped; 
they wished I had talked for another hour. There are two 
churches in Ballarat; both are weak. It would be well if they 
could unite. I made the acquaintance of George Morris, a leading 
merchant and an elder in the church. He shares in the preaching. 
The next morning we visited the School of Mines. The principal 
spared neither time nor pains to explain everything. He took us 
through a mine and showed us how the quartz was obtained. 
Then he showed us how it was crushed and how the gold was col- 

284 



FROM MELBOURNE TO TEE SHIP 285 

lected. He took us through the Museum and showed us its con- 
tents. There are under a glass case models of the great nuggets 
that have been found at different times. He told us that some 
burglar had broken in and carried off similar models, thinking that 
they were pure gold. In the afternoon we visited the Public Gar- 
dens. The gardener is a genius; his work is of a very high order. 
That evening Professor Martin and Mr. Morris went away to 
attend a tea meeting. A. E. Lilburne, the clerk of the church and 
a pleasant and well-informed gentleman, took charge of me and 
placed me on board the train for Adelaide. 

The next day about noon I reached my destination, and found 
T. J. Gore waiting for me with a carriage. The Australian trains 
are not the most comfortable in the world. Every half hour an 
inspector comes in to examine tickets. Sleep is murdered. In 
consequence of this pernicious system I was weary. After lunch- 
eon, my good host and hostess sent me to bed to rest and recu- 
perate. On Sunday morning I spoke at North Adelaide. Dr. 
Verco presided. When he speaks, no one would think that he is a 
busy physician. He talks as if he did nothing but preach. Dr. 
Verco is a many-sided man. He does several things, and does 
them all well. On Sunday afternoon the Grote Street Sunday- 
school and the mission connected with that church met to hear an 
address on the condition of children in the heathen world. The 
children voted to observe Children's Day, and to help in sending 
the Gospel to the Christless nations. That night I spoke to a great 
throng in Grote Street. On Monday evening this church had its 
annual tea. The preachers in Adelaide and vicinity were present 
in force. Many friends of the church attended and manifested 
their interest in its welfare. Grote Street is first, and last, and 
always a missionary church. The Mission Band has supported a 
young man in Hurda who is preparing for the ministry. The 
Sunday-school room is adorned with photographs of our mission- 
aries. One or two young people are ready to go out. Anything 
relating to missions is heard with unusual eagerness. Several 
addresses were made after the tea. The pastor read the annual 
report. This showed substantial gains in all departments. On 
Tuesday night there was a farewell meeting in the hall of the 
i'oung Men's Christian Association. Dr. Morton was asked to 
preside. He is at the head of a school in which candidates for the 
mission field are trained. He brought his whole class to the 
service. Mr. Gore wanted me to see everything and to get as much 
work out of me as possible. The people are hungry to hear about 



286 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the work. They want to know how they can most effectively con- 
tribute to its support and enlargement. One afternoon was devoted 
to a conference. Men and women belonging to all the churches 
came together to inquire about the missionaries and their methods 
and difficulties and needs. One morning I was taken to the Botan- 
ical and Zoological Gardens and to the Academy of Fine Arts. 
One evening we went down to Glenelg and dined with Dr. Magarey. 
On the way we called to see Pastor Abbott. He has been in Ade- 
laide from the beginning. There are seven congregations in South 
Australia known as Christian churches. They are very much like 
our people. They baptize as we do, on a confession of faith in 
Jesus as the Christ, the Son of God. They break bread every 
week. The points of difference are these: They are Calvinists; 
they lay special emphasis on the pre-millennial coming of Christ ; 
and some of them hold to the theory of conditional immortality. 
They are friendly to us ; their pastors and our evangelists exchange 
services ; but they do not unite in any association or in any work. 
Pastor Abbott belongs to these people. Henry Hussey is another 
of their pastors. He jocularly boasts that he is more orthodox 
than any of our people, as he went all the way from Australia to 
Bethany to be baptized by Alexander Campbell. 

The next morning a number of men and women came down with 
me to the ship. Mrs. Gore had a box of choice fruit placed in my 
cabin. The Australians know how to welcome the coming and how 
to speed the parting guest. They omit nothing that has a tendency 
to make him feel grateful that he has been able to visit them and 
to make him desirous of visiting them again. They pay all expenses 
and load him with costly gifts and slip into his hand a goodly num- 
ber of guineas to help meet the cost of the trip. The only discom- 
fort is in the thought that they do too much; they do far more 
than one could wish. I met some men and women in Australia 
who raised my estimate of the race as a whole. I took leave of 
them with a fervent prayer that they, being rooted and grounded in 
love, may be strong to apprehend, with all the saints, what is the 
breadth, and length, and height, and depth, and to know the love of 
Christ which passeth knowledge, that they be filled unto all the 
fullness of God. 

Before leaving there H. D. Smith gave me the names of the 
Americans who have preached for the churches in the colonies. 
These are: H. S. Earl, T. J. Gore, G. L. Surber, H. L. Geeslin, 
O. A. Carr, W. H. Martin, J. F. Floyd, J. J. Haley, A. B. Maston, 
J. H. Edwards, W. S. Houchins and J. W. Shepherd. In Adelaide 



FROM MELBOURNE TO THE SHIP 287 

they still tell how the papers advised all the preachers in the place 
to go to hear Mr. Earl as a study in pulpit eloquence. In Mel- 
bourne they talk of the great sermons preached in the Music Hall 
by Mr. Haley to the thousands that nocked to hear. All these men 
did good work, and left a good name behind them. Speaking of 
different ones, the people say, "He led me to Christ." Of the men 
that came from the colonies and preached, or now preach in 
America, the names are: Mark Collis, T. H. Capp, C. A. Moore, J. 
W. Webb, A. M. Growden, M. Gunn, T. H. Bates, C. L. Thurgood, 
Hugh McLellan, B. C. Black, E. T. Edmonds, G. M. Anderson, J. 
J. Irvine, G. T. Walden, and H. Goodacre. Of those that went to 
America to be educated and returned, the. names are: P. A. Dick- 
son, J. C. Dickson, F. W. Greenwood, A. C. Eankine, C. T. Fors- 
cutt and T. H. Jennings. There are about a dozen men in 
America now preparing for the ministry. The day should come, 
and come soon, when the colonies will establish a school of their 
own and train their own men. 



XL VIII. 
CONCERNING THE AUSTRALIAN CHURCHES. 

The Australian Christians have some admirable traits. All 
bring their Bibles and hymn-books to church. They follow when 
the Scriptures are read, and turn to the text and other passages as 
they are announced. All join in the singing. They sing with the 
spirit and with the understanding. All contribute toward the 
expenses of the church. I tried to find out the methods employed 
to secure a consummation so devoutly to be wished, but failed. All 
say that this is the fact, but no one is able to account for it. The 
converts are expected to give, and this expectation is not disap- 
pointed. In America a minority bear all the financial burdens. 
There are exceptions, but this is the rule. In Australia no one 
would be regarded as being in good standing and full fellowship 
unless he bore his part of the current expenses. A large number of 
business men can exhort and preach and pray acceptably. There 
are men who are engaged all the week in secular pursuits who con- 
duct the public services on Sunday. The churches feel that their 
existence does not depend upon having a preacher; in his absence 
the work can go on. Congregations listen most intently. There is 
no sleep or slumber or weariness. No one consults his watch. 
They are quick to see a good point and to respond. Some audi- 
ences are cold and sluggish; they would quench a seraph's fire. If 
one had the tongues of men and angels, he could not speak effect- 
ively in their presence. Others inspire a speaker, and call out the 
best that is in him. If one can speak at all, he can speak well to 
an Australian audience. 

Wherever I went people said, "I suppose you find things here 
different from what they are in America." In most things, and in 
the most essential things, there is no difference. An Australian 
would find himself very much at home in any American church, 
and an American would find the same in Australia. I detected some 
differences that are verbal only. The preacher is called the " evan- 
gelist." The term is more classical than the one we use. I detected 
some real differences. The Sunday morning service is for the mem- 
bers only. No effort is made to secure the attendance of non- 
288 




1. John Bardsley, Sydney. 2. Mrs. John Bardsley, Sydney. 

3. J. Colbourne, Adelaide. 
4. D. A. Ewers, Melbourne. 5. William Burford, Adelaide. 

G. A. B. Maston, Melbourne. 7. P. G. Dunn, Melbourne, 



AUSTRALIAN FRIENDS. 



CONCERNING THE AUSTRALIAN CHURCHES 289 

believers. They are not debarred, but they are not expected, and 
they do not come. The Lord's Supper is the main feature of this 
service. This usually occupies an hour. There is an unwritten law 
that the entire service must not exceed an hour and a half in length. 
The speaker has from twenty to twenty-five minutes for an exhorta- 
tion. Sometimes the evangelist speaks ; more frequently some one 
else. At one time any one who wished could speak; now the offi- 
cers determine who shall occupy the time. The Sunday morning 
service is very like a mid-week prayer-meeting at home. 

One of the Melbourne elders asked me how we conducted our 
meetings. When I told him, he said, "Perhaps that accounts for 
your rapid growth in America." I think it does. The Sunday 
morning service is the best service in the week for preaching the 
Gospel. It is easier to get strangers to attend in the morning than 
in the evening. In the churches of which I have knowledge there 
are more confessions in the morning services than at any other. In 
Australia the pressure of the Gospel upon the world is reduced one- 
half. In my opinion, they would do far better if they would seek to fill 
their houses and preach the Gospel at every service. They could give 
saint and sinner a portion in due season. I think the results would 
be more gratifying. Last year there was a net loss of five churches 
and thirty-six members in Victoria; the year before there was a loss 
of two hundred and eighteen members. New South Wales had a 
gain of only one in the year. These losses are explained by saying 
that some have removed to West Australia, and that several church 
rolls have been revised. The explanation accounts for a part of the 
losses, but not for all. Christianity is a conquering faith. If in any 
field it does not run and is not glorified, there must be some reason 
for it. It is for those in charge to inquire what the reason is. I 
believe the Melbourne elder laid his finger on the weak spot. I am 
sure that the churches in America would lose immensely if they were 
to adopt the Australian system. Our churches magnify the Lord's 
Supper, but they do not lose sight of the unsaved. At every 
service people are urged to believe on the Lord Jesus Christ and to 
confess him publicly. 

In the Conference one or two speakers were constantly talking 

against taking money from the unimmersed. Their remarks always 

called out some applause. One man said that some Sunday-schools 

had made offerings to the work. He spoke of this as a violation 

of a principle of the Church of Christ. The President explained 

that a resolution had been adopted three years ago providing that 

all such offerings should be used for benevolent, and not for evan- 
19 



290 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

gelistic, purposes. I was asked if it was true that the American 
churches took money from " all and sundries." I told them that in 
America money for the Lord's work came from the Lord's people. 
The world loves its own and spends its money on its own. If any 
money came from the outside it was so infinitesimal that it was not 
worth talking or contending about. We are in no danger from this 
source in America, and do not need to put up any safeguards. 
John Bright used to tell of a mountebank who sold pills to prevent 
earthquakes. We are in as little peril from one source as from the 
other, and do not need to take any preventive. We make our 
appeal to the churches and we get our money from the churches. I 
learned that the churches in Australia are not a unit in their oppo- 
sition to taking money from the unimmersed. Some take any that 
is offered and make no remark. They call to mind the words: 
"The silver is mine, and the gold is mine, saith the Lord," and if 
any one wishes to pay to the Lord that which he owes, they do not 
object. Others can see no difference between taking money for 
evangelistic and for benevolent purposes. They think this is a dis- 
tinction without a difference. 

No unimmersed person is invited to the Lord's table. I was 
asked more than once as to the views and practice of the churches 
in America. Here again it seems to me that this matter is dwelt 
upon with undue insistence. The fact is, that people of other com- 
munions are not pressing in and claiming the right of sitting down 
with them at the Lord's table. There is no need of fencing the 
tables, as there is no one seeking to obtrude himself where he knows 
he is not welcome. Even if their position was scriptural, this is 
not a practical issue, and all that is said about it is a waste of 
breath. On the question of instrumental music there is as much 
diversity as at home. Some use the organ at all the services ; some 
at the evening services only; two or three that I visited do not use 
it at all. Some speak of the morning service as for worship, the 
evening service as for preaching the Gospel. I think, speaking 
broadly, the churches in New South Wales are the most conserva- 
tive in Australia; those in South Australia the least so, and those 
in Victoria are between the two. 

There are 12,850 Disciples of Christ in Australasia. Of these 
150 are in West Australia; 2,621 in South Australia; 5,150 in Vic- 
toria; 2,129 in New South Wales; 300 in Tasmania; 2,500 in New 
Zealand. This number should be doubled in ten years. To do this, 
more preachers are needed to give their whole time to the work. 
At one time any form of paid labor smacked of ecclesiasticism and 



CONCERNING THE AUSTRALIAN CHURCHES 291 

was supposed to have the mark of the beast. That feeling has 
largely died out. These churches are learning what other churches 
had to learn, namely, that they must have an able and educated 
ministry, and that those who preach the Gospel must live of the 
Gospel. It is well to have business men capable of preaching on 
Sunday, but that is .a small part of the work. With every pulpit 
supplied and every pew filled on Sunday morning and evening, we 
may confidently expect the churches of Australasia to enter upon 
careers of unexampled prosperity. 



XLIX. 
FROM ADELAIDE TO ISMAILIA. 

We left Adelaide on the twenty-second day of April. Commis- 
sioner Coombs and family and Colonel and Mrs. Dowdle, of the 
Salvation Army, were among the passengers. The Salvationists 
were out in force to see them off. About a hundred men and 
women accompanied them to the ship. They sang and prayed on 
board, and listened to some parting counsels from the Commis- 
sioner. He had been in charge of the work in Australia for six 
years. Under his wise management the Army grew and flourished. 
He goes to take charge of the work in England. Herbert Booth 
takes his place in the Colonies. 

The cabins and tables were full. The passengers proved quiet 
and orderly. Most of them are Christian people. There was no 
gambling, and little drinking to excess. In this respect the passen- 
gers are widely different from those on the ship on the voyage 
out. I found the Colonials very friendly. Some of these had been 
in the Colonies for fifty years, and are wealthy. They are going 
back to visit the land of their birth. They still speak of England 
as "home," but they have no thought of remaining there. Their 
homes and their interests are under the Southern Cross, and they 
mean to return after seeing their friends and kinsmen. 

There are twenty-nine children on board. Some of these are 
not at all backward in coming forward; none of them are angels; 
but they add not a little to the amusement and enjoyment of their 
associates. They go everywhere, ask all sorts of questions, and 
laugh and play in calm and storm. The voyage would be dull 
and dreary without them. Blessings on you, little folks ! 

"You are better than all the ballads 
That ever were sung or said ; 
For you are the living poems, 
And all the rest are dead.", 

One passenger is a dog. His mistress washes and combs his 
shaggy hair, feeds him, and kisses and caresses him. His master 
carries him about when he needs air, and walks the deck with him 
when he needs exercise. This poodle is a lucky dog. Few children 
are cared for so tenderly. 

292 



FROM ADELAIDE TO ISMAILIA 293 

Soon after starting, the usual committee on entertainment was 
appointed. The committee sought to please all classes. Accord- 
ingly, they arranged for debates, lectures, concerts, cricket and field 
sports of all kinds, chess, cards, draughts, moot courts, and dances. 
A weekly paper was published. This gave all the home news and 
contained imaginary cablegrams from all parts of the world. The 
Colonials nearly all play whist, euchre and cribbage. Cricket is 
the great English game. It is much less violent than base ball- 
Saturday night was reserved for dancing. No one looked upon 
this as disqualifying the participants for worship the next day. 
The captain danced with young and mature girls till midnight, and 
read the service on Sunday with the solemnity of a bishop. Neither 
card-playing nor dancing is regarded as unbecoming in a Christian. 
One aged lady wanted some one to help her dance the Highland 
Fling. Usually I feel impelled to assist persons of this class when 
I find them traveling alone. But as I do not know the Highland 
Fling from a waltz, or a waltz from a hornpipe, I was obliged to 
remain silent. The young fellows who could dance were not gal- 
lant enough to volunteer. Had she been young and beautiful, there 
would have been no dearth of partners. 

There being no English clergyman on board, we had no sermon 
in the morning. The Captain read the service of the English 
Church and dismissed the audience. It seemed to me that he was 
going through with a disagreeable duty, and was glad when he came 
to the end. The service is wondrously beautiful. Its charmed 
words fell on the ear and heart like music. But I missed the 
sermon and the Lord's Supper. We were dismissed before we 
came to the true conclusion. We went away as from the first 
course at a feast. The soul's thirst was unslaked, its hunger unfed. 
The evening services were conducted in the second saloon. The 
people gathered on the deck and sang and listened. The Salva- 
tionists spoke twice. The first address was somewhat of a surprise. 
I did not suppose that such antiquated theology was preached any- 
where. I had many talks with these godly men, and found much 
pleasure and profit in their society. They explained to me the man- 
agement and work of the Army. Each division is self-supporting. 
The officers receive a certain amount, provided they raise it. Col- 
lections are called for at all the services. A part of the money 
raised in this way is sent to London for general expenses. One 
week in the year is set apart for self-denial. The soldiers in Aus- 
tralia gave $70,000 in this week. The whole Army gave $200,000. 
General Booth has never drawn a dollar of salary. Some wealthy 



294 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

friends supply his needs and pay all his traveling expenses. In 
starting a work in India or Japan, grants are made, and the officers 
in charge are expected to use these as economically as possible. I 
talked with them about the ordinances. The Army observes 
neither baptism nor the Lord's Supper. The explanation given 
was, that these are symbols, and that, if they have the realities 
symbolized, the symbols can be dispensed with. One of their mot- 
toes is, "Don't argue." I regard their treatment of the ordinances 
as an error and as a weak point. Our Lord understood human 
nature, and he gave no ordinance that does not have its place and 
use. Consequently it can not be set aside without loss. No one 
denies the zeal and devotion of the Salvation Army. Their motto 
is, "Blood and Fire." The army was organized, so it is said, to 
save sinners, to save the worst sinners, and to save the largest num- 
ber of the worst sinners. The soldiers go everywhere, and bear 
testimony wherever they go. The joy of the Lord is their strength. 
General Booth is not afraid to tackle any evil. He has attacked 
sin in its strongholds; he has undertaken to deal with poverty in 
the great cities; to rescue fallen men and fallen women; to assist 
discharged convicts; in short, to hasten the coming of the new 
heavens and the new earth wherein dwells righteousness. 

At the request of the passengers I spoke on two Sunday even- 
ings. I gave two lectures besides. I spoke once on my travels and 
once on America. In a public address, the speaker spoke slight- 
ingly of Americans. He said that in America human life was 
lightly esteemed. He did not know that there was an American on 
the ship. After the service I challenged his statements. Others 
joined in the conversation. They talked of the bad way in which 
Americans usually acted. One man blandly said, "Everybody 
knows that your officials from the President down are corrupt."" 
Judges, Congressmen and customs officers were all included in this 
sweeping condemnation. As a result of the evening's talk I was 
asked to give a lecture on America, with a view to remove existing 
misapprehensions. The people in the East and South know almost 
nothing about America. I searched the book-stores of Colombo for 
an American history or for any book on America, but found none. 
The most popular works at home are unknown by name here. 
When the time came, I gave the audience some idea of the extent 
of our territory, the character of our people and their contribution 
to the welfare of humanity, of the stability of our government, of 
the incorruptibility of our public men, and of the problems we are 



FROM ADELAIDE TO ISMAILIA 295 

trying to solve. I spoke for an hour and a half. Some were so 
interested that they said they could have listened all night. 

We were three days crossing the Great Australian Bight. Our 
first stop was made at Albany in West Australia. We set down and 
took on some passengers at this point. Our next stop was at 
Colombo. Some of the natives claim that this was the site of 
Eden. It is a veritable paradise. One may travel over the world 
and not find another spot so beautiful. The people have not yet 
forgiven Heber for speaking of Ceylon as the place " where every 
prospect pleases, and only man is vile." He was not far wrong. 
The place swarms with beggars. Children are taught to beg and to 
lie as soon as they are born. They all have the same story: " Me 
no fader; me no moder; me no broder; me two sisters to feed; good 
papa, give me something to buy rice and curry." Bearded men and 
young children follow strangers for miles repeating this story. 
When one has heard it ten thousand times, he wonders if all the 
youth of Ceylon are really orphans; and if so, what epidemic car- 
ried off all the parents and spared all the children. 

The next land we saw after leaving Colombo was the large island 
of Socotra. To us it appeared a barren rock. We saw no signs of 
life of any kind. We learned, however, that there are ten thou- 
sand people on the island, and that they cultivate spices of differ- 
ent kinds. Socotra is a British possession. Our next call was at 
Aden. This is the Indian Gibraltar. The British own thirty-five 
square miles of Arabia. They have here a military establishment 
and a coaling station for the navy. The population, excluding the 
garrison, numbers thirty thousand. The town and fort are in the 
crater of an extinct volcano. The feature that interests strangers 
most is the system of tanks made to catch and hold water. Some- 
times it does not rain for years. Long ago these tanks were 
begun. They hold in all thirty million gallons. One sees almost 
no vegetation. The beggars here are as numerous as in Colombo, 
and they have the identical story. Ostrich feathers, tapestries, 
boxes and baskets of various kinds are pressed on the passenger 
for sale. If a seller gets a third of the first price, he gets as much 
as he ought. The British and Foreign Bible Society has a depot 
here. The Church Missionary Society has a chaplain. The Roman 
Catholics have a strong staff. In the English graveyard rests all 
that was mortal of Ion Keith-Falconer. He was a son of the Earl 
of Kintore. At Cambridge, where he was educated, and where he 
taught Arabic, he was neither a prig nor a Pharisee. He delighted 
in all athletic sports. He was the best amateur cyclist in England. 



296 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

He was a helper in mission work at home. He heard General Haig 
plead for some one to work in Aden. Thousands came from all parts 
of Arabia to Aden, and they could but contrast the peace and order 
and liberty of the place with the misrule and despotism of their own 
homes. Here was a great opening for a good work. This young man, 
living in a pleasant home with a happy bride, in the midst of the cul- 
ture and refinement of an ancient university, with a splendid career 
opening before him, left all at the call of God to work in Arabia at 
his own expense. He took the Aden fever and died. Behind his 
grave are the gloomy hills of darkness, to whose people he came 
with the message of Gospel light; before it the white Arabian 
shore, with the ocean stretching away into the limitless distance. 
The Free Church of Scotland has taken up his work and has 
resolved to prosecute it vigorously. 

The da}^ before we reached Aden one of the passengers died. 
She was sick when she boarded the ship in Melbourne. Sixteen 
years ago she left Scotland to marry a prosperous colonist. She 
was then one of the happiest girls that ever breathed. Her life 
since has not been without sorrow. She and her husband parted. 
Feeling that her end was drawing nigh, she started for Scotland. 
She wanted to put her little daughter under the care of some rela- 
tives. Her prayer was that she might reach the home of her youth. 
This prayer was not answered. Most of the way she was in the hos- 
pital. Some of the passengers took care of her and supplied her 
needs. One of them took charge of her daughter. I have always 
noticed that where God sends sorrow or sickness, he also sends some 
good woman to comfort and to nurse. Her body was placed in a 
coffin heavily loaded with iron. As the sun was setting, the coffin, 
draped with a flag, was placed on a platform. The captain read the 
burial service. When he came to the words, " We therefore com- 
mit her body to the deep," the seamen raised one end of the plat- 
form. The coffin slid down and sank like a stone. The engines, 
which had been stopped, were started again, and the ship continued 
her course as if nothing had happened. 

Ninety miles west of Aden we entered the Red Sea. This sea is 
not red, but blue. The entrance is known as the Straits of Babul 
Mandib, or "The Gate of Tears," so named from the number of 
ships that have been wrecked in this region. Soon after we passed 
the Island of Perim. The English flag flies over it, and a small gar- 
rison is stationed there. This island commands the entrance to the 
sea, somewhat as Gibraltar commands the entrance to the Mediterra- 
nean. We were three days on this sea. Much of the time we could 




THE PYRAMIDS. 




SUEZ CANAL. 



FROM ADELAIDE TO ISMAILIA 297 

see no land on either side. We saw many ships. The Red Sea is 
now one of the great highways of the nations. All ships bound for 
the East pass through the Suez Canal and the Red Sea. As we 
entered the Gulf of Suez we saw the mountains of Arabia and 
Africa. In the far distance is Sinai, where the law was given to 
Moses, but we could, not see it. The days and nights were cool and 
refreshing. Usually on the Eed Sea the heat is suggestive of 
Tophet. We had nothing to complain of in this respect. People 
sat on deck with their wraps about them, and slept at night under 
covers. We had heard much of the hot blasts from the Sahara, but 
we felt none. In fact, we had no oppressive heat at any time in the 
voyage. The tropics behaved beautifully. There was no time when 
we could not work or play, according to our mood. When we 
crossed the equator we saw the polestar and the Great Bear. In 
the Red Sea we lost sight of the Southern Cross. 

After a brief stay at "Suez we entered the canal. This ditch is 
eighty-seven miles long and is deep enough for the largest ships. It 
cost nearly $100,000,000. One wonders why English engineers 
declared that a canal here was impossible. The Isthmus is level. 
The Bitter Lakes lessened the cutting. One of these is fifteen miles 
long; another is seven. There is an enormous amount of digging, 
but that is all. There are no triumphs of engineering genius. The 
cutting of the Suez Canal is child's play compared with the build- 
ing of the Southern Pacific or the Denver and Rio Grande Railway. 
I left the ship at Ismailia. The passengers gathered- about me and 
expressed their regret that I was not going with them to London. 
No one could wish to travel with a nicer company of people. I 
shall always cherish pleasant memories of these colonials. The cap- 
tain is a little snob. He did not wish to be intimate with any one 
who was not distinguished by a title or wealth or genius. One good 
woman, an invalid too, wished to be introduced to him that she 
might thank him for some privilege accorded her. He said, "No; 
if I consent to be introduced to her, I shall have to be introduced 
to others." Perhaps he has a drop of blue blood in his veins or 
some blue milk in his stomach. The company to which the ship 
belongs is rich and pays large dividends. At the same time its 
treatment of its men is simply scandalous. The stewards get no 
butter; they eat standing about; they sleep like cattle down in the 
hold; some of them are on duty for twenty-four hours without 
intermission. Such shameful treatment of men should be impos- 
sible under great England's flag and on a ship receiving large 
subsidies from the British government. 



L. 

FROM ISMAILIA TO ALEXANDRIA. 

Ismailia is on the Isthmus of Suez, about midway between the 
Red Sea and the Mediterranean. This neck of land connects Asia 
and Africa, and has associations of the greatest historic interest. 
Over it Abraham and his family passed when they went down into 
Egypt in the time of famine. Over it Joseph was carried when he 
was sold by his brethren to a company of Ishmaelites. They came 
from Gilead, with their camels bearing spicery, and balm, and 
myrrh, going to carry it down to Egypt. Over it Jacob and his 
household passed when at Joseph's invitation they went to sojourn 
in Goshen during the years of famine. Over it the Assyrian, the 
Chaldean, the Persian and the Arab passed on their way to conquer 
Egypt, and over it the Egyptian armies marched on their way to 
invade western Asia. 

At some point in our course through the Red Sea and the canal r 
we must have crossed the path of the Hebrews on the Exodus. 
One place on the Gulf of Suez was pointed out as the actual spot. 
There are high hills on either side of a plain large enough to accom- 
modate the host of Israel. The sea there is seven miles wide. Sir 
William Dawson and others are of the opinion that, at that time, 
the Red Sea extended as far inland as the Bitter Lakes, and that the 
crossing took place not far from the present Ismailia. But as we 
scanned every inch of the way for two hundred miles, we must have 
seen the place where the people at the commaud of God went 
forward, and where the seas parted and gave them an easy and safe 
passage, and where the Egyptians, undertaking to capture them and 
bring them back to their cruel bondage, were drowned. It was easy 
in imagination to call up the great scene and the actors. 

The enemy said, "I will pursue, I will overtake, I will divide 
the spoil; my lust shall be satisfied upon them; I will draw my 
sword, my hand shall destroy them." God blew, the sea covered 
them; they sank as lead in the mighty waters. In the psalm of 
victory, the people said, "Who is like unto thee, O Lord, among 
the gods? Who is like unto thee, glorious in holiness, fearful in 
praises, doing wonders? " Miriam and all the women took timbrels 

298 



FROM ISMAILIA TO ALEXANDRIA 29£ 

and danced and said, " Sing ye to the Lord, for he hath triumphed 
gloriously; the horse and his rider hath he thrown into the sea." 

At Ismailia two other passengers left the boat for a brief stay 
in Egypt. In the morning we walked out to see the town. The 
donkey boys discovered us and insisted that we should have a ride 
on their animals. One was named " Yankee Doodle; " one, " Mrs. 
Langtry," and one the " Grand Old Man." These lads are shrewd, 
and understand human nature better than many philosophers. By 
wit and flattery and importunity they seek to worm a few extra 
piasters out of their patrons, and seldom fail. They are civil and 
attentive and point out everything that has any historic interest. 
Ismailia is a dull place. It originated when the canal was in process 
of construction. It depends wholly upon the canal for support. 
All around is desert. From Suez, we saw scarcely any green thing. 
Where springs are found or where sweet-water canals have been 
cut, one sees feathery palms, grain, fruits and flowers, but these are 
scarce. In the afternoon we took the train for Cairo. For miles 
we saw only a sea of sand. One station is named Tel-el-Kebir. It 
was here that General Wolseley smashed the power of Arabi, and 
saved the Egyptians from a great evil and the foreigners from a 
grave peril. After Tel-el-Kebir the verdure increased till the 
whole country became a garden. Central Illinois is not more fer- 
tile. We passed through the ancient Goshen. Pharaoh said to 
Joseph, "The land of Egypt is before thee; in the best of the 
land make thy father and brethren to dwell." The king added, 
"Ye shall eat of the fat of the land." This district answers to the 
description. Though the country is naturally fertile, and yields 
several crops a year, the people are indescribably poor. They herd 
together in mud huts, and are destitute of almost every comfort. 
The whole family live in one room. The same apartment is shared 
with the dogs and goats and fleas. England is in Egypt, and there 
is a sense of unwonted peace and security. I trust that England 
will abide in Egypt, and so preclude a return of the misgovernment 
of the Khedive. In case she does so, the inhabitants of this " gar- 
den of Jehovah " will enter upon a period of unprecedented pros- 
perity. The railway leaves Zoan and Rameses on the right. Zoan 
was founded seven years before Hebron. It was a town of some 
importance before the migration of Abraham. Zoan was once the 
capital. It was to this place that Moses and Aaron went to demand 
of Pharaoh that he let the children of Israel go. Rameses was the 
place of the first encampment. It was here that they rendezvoused 



300 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and kept the Passover with their feet shod and loins girded. Every 
foot of this journey was absorbingly interesting. 

We reached Cairo two hours before dark, and were surprised to 
find it such a fine city. In modern Cairo the buildings are large and 
substantial. The streets, though not wide, are well paved and 
lighted. There is an old Cairo. This is the Arab quarter. There 
the streets are narrow and crooked and foul. There the cholera 
microbes breed and spread. But much of Cairo is clean and whole- 
some. The hotels are as good as those in Bombay or Melbourne. 
The city is well supplied with mosques. There are two hundred 
and sixty-four of these places of prayer. From any elevation one 
sees minarets in all directions. At intervals the shrill cry of the 
muezzin is heard calling "the faithful" to prayer and reminding 
them that there is no god but God, and that Mohammed is the 
prophet of God. The Mohammedans founded this city in honor of 
their conquest of the land, and named it " The Victorious." Most 
of the people are Mohammedans; the other faiths are represented 
by two hundred and twenty-five chapels. 

Being a semi-tropical climate the people live much in the open 
air. They need little clothing and little shelter. It was a common 
thing to see men sleeping on the streets or in the parks or wherever 
they could find room to stretch their bodies. In the morning and 
evening tables and chairs were placed out on the sidewalks, and 
hundreds sat down and played games and drank coffee or whiskj r , 
according to their taste and religion. The bright colors worn by the 
people attract the attention of strangers. Men dress in all sorts of 
styles, but more and more the European style is becoming preva- 
lent. Nearly all wear the red fez. We saw many women walking 
the streets, but never in the company of men. The men go together, 
each holding the hand of the other; the women do the same. The 
wives and daughters of Mohammedans and Copts in good circum- 
stances are always veiled; only the eyes are seen. Black women 
are as careful on this point as white. The veil protects them 
against insult. Rich women always dress in black. Poor women 
and the wives and daughters of Europeans go uncovered. They 
have not been born to blush unseen. We made long excursions 
into the city by night and by day. The people everywhere were 
invariably quiet. We saw no drunkenness and no disposition to do 
ns any violence. We were unarmed, and felt as secure as we could 
liave have felt in Boston or London. 

Securing a dragoman and a carriage we drove out to see the 
Pyramids. On the way we got our first view of the Nile. The 



FROM ISMAILIA TO ALEXANDRIA 301 

bridge across it is guarded by British lions at both ends. The guide 
pointed out an island in the river, and told us that tradition says 
that it was there that Pharaoh's daughter found Moses in the ark of 
bulrushes. A ride of seven miles brought us to the Pyramids — one 
of the seven wonders of the world. They are built on a rock of 
considerable height on the edge of the Great Desert. The largest 
covers thirteen acres, and is four hundred and sixty feet high. The 
next largest is on higher ground, and appears to be the higher of 
the two, though it is much smaller. The others are insignificant in 
comparison. They were once covered with smooth stones. These 
smooth stones were taken away by the Arabs and used in building 
mosques. The surface now resembles a -staircase. The Bedouins 
took us in charge at once. With one holding each hand the ascent 
was easily and speedily made. Several times we stopped to take 
breath and to study these great works. From the top we got a view 
of the whole country adjacent. The longer we gazed at the Pyra- 
mids the more wonderful they appeared. They grew on our thought 
and assumed colossal proportions. On our descent we went in and 
explored the different chambers. We saw some empty coffins, but 
nothing else. We felt relieved when we got out. Evidently, the 
Pyramids were built as royal sepulchres. There are other tombs on 
the same platform. These are above the flood of the Nile, and not 
far from Memphis, one of the ancient capitals. The Bedouins were 
clamorous for pay and for backsheesh. Those who rendered no 
service wished to be paid for their good intentions. Every man 
thought we ought to satisfy him before leaving. They see the 
stranger but once, and they think that it behooves them to make 
the most of that one opportunity. From the Pyramids we walked 
over to see the Sphinx. This great figure has the head of a woman, 
and the body of a lion. Once the head was adorned with a helmet 
and a beard. Near by we saw the foundations of a temple. The 
size of the stones that are still in place give one some conception of 
the grandeur of the building. These huge blocks of granite were 
brought down the Nile from Assouan. On our return to Cairo we 
learned that the Syrian ports kept all passengers from Egypt in 
quarantine ten days. This is on account of the cholera in Cairo and 
Alexandria. I did not know this till I was in the trap. The prob- 
lem now is how to get out. I must go up to Jerusalem, but I do 
not like to remain in quarantine on board a ship, or in a lazaretto 
in Beirut for ten days. 

I visited more than once the missions of the United Presby- 
terians of America. I met all the workers. I attended their mid- 



302 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

week prayer-meeting, visited their school for boys, and saw the 
chapel. Like all such buildings in the East, the men sit on one side 
and the women on the other. There is a screen between. Drs. 
Harvey and Watson and their associates gave me many facts about 
the mission. Some of these I add: The mission began forty-two 
years ago. Since that time the workers have been increased, sta- 
tions occupied, schools opened, Scriptures distributed, preachers 
trained, and churches organized. In all the principal cities of the 
Delta missionaries are stationed, and the smaller places are visited 
by evangelists and colporteurs. In the Upper Country the work is 
in a nourishing condition. The missionaries number forty-one; the 
native ordained pastors, nineteen; the whole number of workers, 
three hundred and sixty-seven; the communicants five thousand and 
four; churches, thirty-seven; other preaching places, one hundred 
and fifty-three. Of the converts seventy were Moslems. In one 
hundred and twenty-five Sunday-schools there were six thousand 
six hundred and twenty-two pupils. There are one hundred and 
sixty-one day schools — one hundred and thirty-six for boys, and 
twenty-five for girls. These schools have ten thousand eight hun- 
dred and seventy-four pupils enrolled. There are three high 
schools for boys, with seven hundred and eighty pupils, and five for 
girls, with one thousand and fifty-seven pupils. One-fifth of the 
scholars are Mohammedans. In ten years the attendance has 
doubled. The mission has a college at Assiout. This college began 
in 1865 in a stable; the donkeys were at one end and the boys 
at the other. Now it has substantial buildings and four hun- 
dred and twenty students. This school has trained pastors, 
teachers, doctors, lawyers, journalists, authors, newspaper cor- 
respondents, interpreters, merchants, farmers, mechanics; it has 
prepared men for the postal, railway, telegraph, police, justice, 
finance, and war departments. The Theological Seminary is in 
Cairo; it has a three years' course. The mission was not content 
with educating boys; it desired to raise up a generation of educated 
Christian women, who should build up Christian homes in Egypt. 
In addition to the primary schools, there are two advanced board- 
ing schools for girls with two hundred and fifty enrolled. The larg- 
est school of this kind in Egypt is in Cairo. It has seventy-nine 
boarders, and two hundred and fifty-three day pupils. In these 
schools many wives have been trained. The hearts of their hus- 
bands do safely trust in them. In 1854 there was scarcely a woman 
in the land able to read; now there are two thousand three hundred 
and thirty-two girls attending school. The mission employs twent} r - 



FROM ISM AIM A TO ALEXANDRIA 303 

seven colporteurs. These sold last year sixty-two thousand one 
hundred and thirty volumes. These serve as pioneer evangelists as 
well. There are forty-nine special workers among the women in 
their homes. They have one thousand seven hundred and seventy- 
two regular pupils. They reach Mohammedans, Copts, Jews and 
Greek Catholics. In the hospitals, fifteen thousand are annually 
treated. The patients are brought under Christian influences while 
in the hospitals. Papers are printed and scattered far and near. 
The mission received last year from the people of Egypt for the 
support of the work, $38,468. The native church pays about one- 
half the entire expense of the mission. Ninety schools are self- 
supporting. The gain in converts and in liberality is constant. I 
rejoiced with these saintly workers, and came away feeling increas- 
ingly confident of the regeneration of Egypt. 

It was in Cairo that Miss Whately did her great work. She 
went there expecting to remain a few months. Seeing the degra- 
dation of the women she opened a school for poor girls. Until the 
work outgrew her means she bore all the expense. She began with 
nine girls. On their first appearance they were not very attractive. 
Cleanliness is not an Arab virtue. Mothers think that plenty of 
dirt protects the child against the evil eye. For a time work was 
carried on in the face of great disadvantages and discouragements. 
It is hard to teach people who are utterly ignorant and who do not 
prize knowledge. Besides she could not then speak fluently in 
Arabic, and she had no efficient helpers. But God sent her two 
qualified teachers. It was not long till a school for boys was opened. 
By practicing the most rigid self-denial she was able to pay the rent 
and teachers. Her assistants preached the Gospel in the surround- 
ing country and in the towns along the Nile. She hired a boat, and 
with her sister engaged in the same work. On one of her tours the 
people were so impressed with her message that they said, " Bring 
out the aged, that they may hear the word of God before they die." 
A hospital was opened and several thousand patients were treated 
annually. She pleaded with the Bedouins to accept Christ; she 
went into the streets and slums and told the people of the love of 
God ; she induced story-tellers to read and repeat the Gospel mes- 
sage. The work grew in Jier hands. God sent her friends and 
helpers and means. When the Prince and Princess of Wales visited 
Egypt, the Khedive gave her some ground. On this suitable build- 
ings have been erected. She became widely known and profoundly 
respected. In streets where once she was pelted with dirt and 
reviled as the "cursed Nazarene," she was met by the salutation, 



304 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

" Blessed be thy hands and feet, O lady." Some people said of her 
and her associates, "These women will surely go to Paradise, even 
though they are Christians." Her death was mourned by all who 
knew her. Miss Whately did good work, and " the day shall declare 
it." She spent thirty years in that delightful service. She was 
one of the first to labor among Mohammedan women in Egypt. 
She died, but her work lives and grows. In addition to the missions 
already alluded to, the Church Missionary Society is at work in 
Cairo. I saw a German and an English Church. These are for the 
people of these nations living here. 

Two other places were immensely interesting, namely, the 
Museum of Gizeh and the Mohammedan university. The museum 
is stored with Egyptian antiquities. One sees innumerable mum- 
mies. The Egyptians embalmed not only human beings, but sacred 
bulls, and crocodiles, and goats, and fish, and birds. In the tombs 
they placed jewels, grain, clothing, money, gods and other things. 
This museum is worth many visits. One feels curious as one looks 
on the face of the king who oppressed the Hebrews and upon the 
representations of men who lived at the same time as Joseph, and 
perhaps long before. I saw the Rosetta Stone. It was by the study 
of the trilingual inscription on this stone that the hieroglyphics 
were deciphered. The university was founded by the Caliphs in 
the day of their power, and has changed little in spirit or form 
since. It is the principal Mohammedan school in the world. The 
pupils come from all Moslem countries except Persia, and number 
12,000. At the door we met with men who put slippers over our 
shoes lest they should touch the sacred floor. We listened to sev- 
eral lectures and recitations. Teachers and scholars sit on mats. 
There is no furniture whatever. Children of all ages were writing 
on tin slates or telling what they knew. The Koran is the one text- 
book. It is supposed to contain all knowledge and wisdom. All 
laws are taken from it. We saw some of "the faithful" engaged 
in prayer. Others were chatting in an undertone. In one place 
barbers were plying their vocation. Some were eating bread and 
onions or curd. Hundreds spread their mats on the floor of the 
mosque, which is the home of the university, and sleep. This 
institution is, without doubt, one of the most remarkable sights in 
Egypt. We also saw the Citadel, the Alabaster Mosque, Joseph's 
Well, the Tombs of the Caliphs, and the Tombs of the Mamelukes. 
I wanted to visit Memphis, Luxor, Karnac, and Thebes, but could 
not afford the time. 

From Cairo I went to Alexandria. There I met John Johnson, 




MOHAMMEDAN UNIVERSITY, CAIRO. 




DANCING DERVISHES. 



FROM ISMAILIA TO ALEXANDRIA 305 

of England. He is now working with the North African Mission. 
This mission has stations in Egypt, Tunis, Algeria, and Morocco. 
There are, in all, about a hundred workers. The mission is inter- 
denominational, and is on the same lines as the China Inland Mis- 
sion. The support is meager, but the workers live simple and joy- 
ous lives. They have schools and hospitals, and preach Christ in 
season. and out of season. On Sunday we went to the Church of 
Scotland. The minister prayed for the great American republic, 
for the officials and the people. He preached on the Galatians, 
taking Professor Ramsey's view, that the Gralatians were the 
churches of Derbe, Lystra, Iconium and Antioch in Pisidia. He 
urged his hearers to guard against legalism, and to stand fast in the 
liberty wherewith Christ had made them free. In the evening I 
went to the Church of England. The rector has a weak voice. I 
heard a word now and then. Like Tennyson's " Northern Farmer," 
I thought he said what he should have said and came away. On 
Monday Mr. Johnson and Mr. Somers went with me to see the city. 
We went to the top of the light-house and got a bird's-eye view of 
Alexandria and the country round about. We passed the site of 
the ancient Pharos. The light-house was one of the wonders of the 
ancient world. It was built for the guidance of those who travel by 
sea. We saw Pompey's Pillar. This is a shaft of granite seventy- 
three feet high and thirty feet in circumference. It must have been 
floated down the Nile from Assouan. We examined the catacombs 
at the base of the pillar, but saw nothing remarkable. 

Alexandria was founded in 333 B. C, and was for a long time 
the greatest city on the globe. Nineveh and Babylon had fallen 
and Rome had not risen to be the mistress of the world. For two 
hundred years it was the residence of the kings of Egypt. Under 
the Ptolemies it was a city with five hundred thousand inhabitants, 
and was adorned with the wealth of Egypt and the arts of Greece. 
Omar described it as a place with four thousand palaces and a like 
number of baths, four hundred places of amusement, twelve thou- 
sand gardens, and a Jewish quarter occupied by forty thousand peo- 
ple. Its schools were the best in existence. They inherited the 
fame of the schools of philosophy in Heliopolis, the city that had 
been the resort of Greek sages and students. Alexandria became 
the seat of learning and the repository of all the wisdom of the 
Egyptians. It was the home of Pantaenus, Hipparchus, Theon, 
Hypatia, Clement, Origen, Athanasius, Cyril, Dionysius, and others 
famous for all time. Here was the great library, having on its ample 

shelves seven hundred thousand volumes, and whose loss is still 
20 



306 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

deplored. Here the Old Testament was translated into Greek. 
From this place the eloquent Apollos went to build up the church 
in other regions. But the glory has departed. The rise of Cairo 
and the discovery of the passage around the Cape and the Suez 
Canal have taken business and wealth from Alexandria. The popu- 
lation now does not exceed three hundred thousand; at one time it 
was only six thousand. Owing to its situation it will never sink 
into insignificance. The United Presbyterians and the British and 
Foreign Society have workers there. 

For the student of history Egypt has a strange fascination. It 
is the oldest kingdom of which we have any record. It has been 
called a land of wonders and monuments, a land of ruined cities, 
palaces, temples, pyramids, obelisks and hieroglyphics. Once it 
was the granary of the world. All Egypt has an area of 382,523 
square miles, but by far the greater part of this is desert. Egypt 
proper, consisting of the Delta and the Valley of the Nile as far as 
the First Cataract and the oases in the Libyan Desert, " the islands 
of the blessed," has an area of about 14,000 square miles. From 
Cairo to the First Cataract the valley is about ten miles wide; from 
Cairo to the sea it spreads out like a triangle. The base on the 
Mediterranean is one hundred and sixty miles long and is five hun- 
dred and fifty miles from the First Cataract as the crow flies. The 
cultivable part of Egypt is, as Herodotus said, "the gift of the 
Nile." This river was once honored as a god. The being and the 
well-being of the nation depended upon it. There was an inscruta- 
ble mystery as to its source and the cause of its annual rising and 
falling. Any impossible enterprise was spoken of as an attempt to 
seek the source of the Nile. Now all mystery has been cleared 
away. Its source has been discovered and the cause of its rising 
ascertained. None the less is it a noble stream, and the source of 
life and wealth to the people. The Nile is nearly as long as the 
Mississippi. At Khartoum the blue and the white streams unite. 
From that point to the sea it receives only one tributary; for a 
thousand miles it receives none. All through Egypt its waters are 
trained off into canals and irrigating ditches. The most common 
sight along its banks is the shadoof, the rude instrument used for 
raising the water into the ditches. 

The population numbers 6,821,413. The Arabs represent the 
conquerors of the seventh century. The Bedouins live in tents and 
despise civilization. The Copts represent the ancient Egyptians, 
and constitute one-tenth of the population. Beside these there are 
Berbers, Soudanese, Turks, Levantines, Jews, Gypsies, Greeks, 



FROM ISMAILIA TO ALEXANDRIA 307 

Italians, French, Austrians, English, Germans. It is said that six 
million two hundred thousand are Mohammedans and six hundred 
thousand Christians. The Copts are Christians, but like the Abys- 
sinians, Greeks, Maronites, Druses, Jacobites, Nestorians, Arme- 
mians and Bulgarians, they have lost their first love. They hold 
some essential truths, but they are mixed with much error. Egypt 
has most of these sects, and perhaps many more. They cling to 
their errors as a limpet to a rock, and are not willing to be aroused 
out of their lethargy. The Roman Catholics are here in force. 
Whatever we may think of some of their tenets, we must admire 
their zeal. Women are held in slight esteem. The Koran allows a 
man four wives and as many slaves as his right hand possesses. A 
recent Viceroy had five hundred women in his harem. There is no 
discrimination on account of color. One Bedouin asked me if I 
was married. When I told him, he said, " I have two wives and 
will sell you one for twenty pounds." I was afraid to offer him 
twenty piasters lest he should accept. From what I have seen of 
the veiled houris they are not distressingly adorable. The women 
are married in childhood, and live and die in ignorance. 

The Biblical student finds much said about this land in the 
Scriptures. It was here that God molded his chosen people into a 
nation. Here Moses was trained for the great task to which he was 
afterwards called. Here God wrought signs and wonders, and 
delivered his people with a mighty arm. Here the child Jesus found 
shelter when Herod sought to destroy him. The world owes much 
to Egypt. Here, according to Dawson, it learned its first lessons 
in geometry, chemistry, medicine, architecture, and sculpture. Yet 
for some reason, Egypt was " the basest of kingdoms," " a servant 
of servants," and was trodden under foot by many, by the Assyrian, 
the Chaldean, the Persian, the Greek, the Roman, the, Arab, the 
Frank, the Briton. She has now the best government she has ever 
had, and all signs indicate the dawn of a better day. With the advan- 
tages of good government, with schools in every town and village, 
with the Gospel preached everywhere, the words of Jehovah will 
have a new application and a new significance, " Blessed be Egypt, 
my people." 



LI. 
FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA.* 

1 left Alexandria thankful that 1 had been kept from the pesti- 
lence that walks in darkness and from the destruction that wastes 
at noonday. Our small ship was crowded with people rushing away 
from the cholera. The cabins were full and the decks covered. On 
a boat with a carrying capacity of seventy-five, we had 267 passen- 
gers. The officers had never seen anything like it. There was a 
fresh breeze and the sea ran high. Most of the people were sick in 
consequence. For a time they were afraid that they w T ould die; 
then they became afraid that death would not come to their relief. 
On occasion the Mediterranean can be as rough as the Atlantic. 

We called at Port Said and spent a day there. This place has a 
bad name. It is said to be worse than Sodom. Some captains do 
not allow women to land. I saw little wickedness. I went about 
the streets for hours. The place is quiet, even to dullness. I fancy 
the young bloods who see so much wickedness in Port Said take 
pains to look for it. A salesman said to my cabin-mate that he had 
some pictures that he would show him if he would go into a back 
room, and asked him if he wished to see them. He said " no," with 
such indignant emphasis that the fellow looked at him in amaze- 
ment and sneered, "missionary." He is a commercial traveler, an 
agent for a wholesale liquor house; he is not a missionary, but he 
has no relish for nastiness. This sneering epithet was the highest 
compliment he could have paid this class of Christian workers. 

We visited the British and Foreign Bible Society and the Sea- 
man's Rest. In the Rest we met a Miss Van Zandt, of California. 
She and a Miss Shaw, from the same State, came out here to do 
missionary work. Miss Van Zandt feels that she has been definitely 
called of God to Port Said. She is in the very place where he 
wants her, and she is unspeakably happy. She said she is like a tree 
planted by the rivers of waters, that bringeth forth fruit in its sea- 
son; its leaf also shall not wither; and whatsoever she does shall 
prosper. She has had so many unmistakable evidences of God's 
favor that she can not doubt that she is in the right place. She is 
learning Arabic, that she may be able to work among the natives. 
There is no other mission work here. There is an English church, 

*The Joppa of tne Bible. 308 




AN ARAB SCHOOL. 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 309 

but it is for the English; it does nothing for the Egyptians. Port 
Said is at the entrance to the Suez Canal. It is a commercial port, 
and is destined to grow in numbers, in business and in wealth. It 
is a strategic point, and should be occupied by a strong staff. 

Instead of going to Jaffa directly, we went to Beirut, in Syria, 
to spend ten days in quarantine. Jaffa has a bad harbor and no 
quarantine accommodations. We spent a' night and a day on the 
Mediterranean. We saw few ships. Yet we were sailing in front of 
the most interesting of all lands and in front of what was once the 
commercial center of the globe. The first land we saw was Mt. 
Carmel. We were reminded of Elijah's contest with the priests of 
Baal, and of the cloud no larger than a' man's hand, seen by the 
servant of the prophet. Toward evening we dropped anchor in St. 
George's Bay. Here, according to tradition, St. George killed the 
dragon. Before us lies Beirut. The buildings belonging to the 
American Mission occupy a conspicuous position and can be seen 
from afar. In the background is " grand old Lebanon with a dia 
dem of stars, around his snowy turban, looking for all the world like 
some august monarch of the universe, with his head in heaven and 
his feet on the sea." In Beirut, it is said, Christianity early gained 
a foothold, and became the seat of a bishopric. An earthquake 
shook the place and ruined the city, overthrowing colleges, 
churches, theaters, palaces, and burying many hundreds of all 
classes under the debris. Many villages are seen on the sides and 
crest of Lebanon. Sixty miles distant is Damascus, and near 
Damascus are Baalbeck and Palmyra. It would be a pleasing 
experience to visit these places, but we are in quarantine, and can 
not go ashore for any purpose. For several days the sea was rough. 
The eating saloon is fitted up with berths, and the men and women 
and children that occupied them were in all stages of sea-sickness. 
They were groaning and vomiting all the time. The sights and 
sounds and smells were not conducive to comfort or appetite. A 
strong stomach and philosophic mind are worth more to a traveler 
than rubies. The food was abundant, and not bad; the cooking 
suited those to the manner born better than strangers; but the 
toothpicks were the best I have seen since leaving home. In fact, I 
do not see how they coulcTbe better. One bottle of wine is served 
to each passenger at luncheon, another at dinner, and rum and cog- 
nac at tea. The rules say that if anyone wishes a greater quantity, 
or at different times, he must pay extra for it. The supply would 
seem to be ample. The rules amused me. One states that passen- 
gers, as persons of education, are expected to treat each other with 



310 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

respect and to pay due regard to the fair sex. When women smoke 
and drink as much as men, which sex is fair? And which is foul? 
I wish to know. We have on this ship a most unique collection of 
fat women. There is nothing like it on the planet. On what meat 
do they feed that they have grown so great? The men cannot com- 
pare with their affectionate spouses. 

To spend ten days on a ship in quarantine is not the most 
delightful experience imaginable. We had the consolation of know- 
ing that the thousands in the lazaretto on the shore are immeas- 
urably more uncomfortable. Some read and write, and read and 
sleep. Others play cards, sing, talk, and long for the close of the 
tenth day. The words of the hymn have new meaning, " Fly 
swifter round, ye wheels of time." The experience is all the 
harder because we know that there is no need of any quarantine. 
Neither England, nor Austria, nor Italy feels any danger. Cholera 
microbes could not live in this atmosphere ten seconds. The 
stenches would poison them in an instant. One day we were taken 
ashore to be fumigated. As the ship had no bath-room and no 
soap, it would seem that something of the kind was necessary. We 
were taken to some rickety sheds and were obliged to wait there for 
hours. There was no bench or chair on which we could rest. The 
bedding and clothing of the deck passengers were steamed. The 
sailors were asked to put on some clothes belonging to the station 
while theirs were being cleansed. The clothes offered them were so 
foul with vermin and filth that they refused to put them on. This 
resulted in a dead-lock which lasted for an hour. The first and 
second-class people were taken into a room and sprayed. One man 
held the nozzle and the other turned the crank. In ten seconds the 
work was done. The quarantine officers themselves needed to be 
soaked and scraped. They were filthier than any on the ship. The 
whole performance was a roaring farce. We were pronounced 
"clean," but we were no cleaner than before. Those who pro- 
nounced the word ought to have placed their hands on their mouths, 
and their mouths in the dust and cried, " unclean, unclean." When, 
on the last day, officers came on board to collect twelve francs from 
each passenger, we understood why we were kept in quarantine. 
The government is bankrupt, and here was a chance to get some 
readj r money. The nation loses more than it gains; the policy is 
short-sighted and opposed to all good sense. No matter for that. 
It yields some money to-day; to-morrow can take care of itself. 
The night before our release we had an illumination. The passen- 
gers and crew bought fireworks, and turned night into day. When 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 311 

the yellow flag was hauled down and we were free to go ashore, our 
joy was boundless. 

I called to see the Presbyterian missionaries. Americans have 
been at work in Syria for seventy years. There are now sixteen 
men and twenty-three women on the staff. Some of the best 
known men are: Drs. Bliss, Porter, Van Dyck, Post, Jessup, and 
Schauffler. Others equally noted have been connected with the 
mission in former years. There are five central stations : Beirut; 
Tripoli, with twenty-seven out-stations, and reaching to Aleppo; 
Abeih, in Mt. Lebanon, with twenty-eight out-stations; Zaleh in 
Coele-Syria, with nineteen out-stations; Sidon, with twenty-four 
out-stations, and reaching nearly to Galilee and Nazareth. The 
methods of work are : Preaching, teaching, publishing, and healing 
the sick. The Gospel is preached at ninety-one places. In the 
127 primary schools there are 6,384 pupils, while hundreds are being 
trained in the high schools, seminaries and academies. The Syrian 
Protestant College has 292 students in the Preparatory, Collegiate, 
and Medical departments. The Theological Seminary has a strong 
corps of teachers. The large hospital belonging to the Knights of 
St. John is under the control of the medical men in the mission. 
Last year 10,314 patients were treated in the polyclinic. An indus- 
trial school and an orphanage for boys have been organized in Sidon. 
The Mission Press prints 25,000,000 pages a year. The Bibles circu- 
lated by the Levant Agency in sixty years number 1,550,000. The 
Church of Scotland has a mission to the Jews in Beirut. The 
Society for the support of British Syrian Schools has seven schools 
and a training institution; the Kaiserwerth Deaconesses have an 
orphanage and a boarding school for girls, there are schools for 
blind men and women. Miss Taylor has a school for Moslem girls. 
The United Presbyterians are at work in Latakia, and the Irish 
Presbyterians in Damascus. I visited the college in Beirut. The 
buildings are large and suitable. The hospital is all that could be 
desired. This mission has been greatly blessed in its workers and 
in its work. The Syrians speak in high praise of the American 
mission. 

It was hoped by many, years ago, that the missionaries could 
reform the churches of the-East from within. These churches were 
not willing to be reformed. When Bird and Goodell came to Beirut, 
the Patriarch of the Maronites launched his curse on the man that 
rented them a house. The whole family was excommunicated. 
" Let the curse envelop them as a robe, and spread through all 
their members like oil, and break them in pieces like a potter's ves- 



312 A CIECVIT OF THE GLOBE 

sel, and wither them like the fig-tree cursed by our Lord himself. 
And let evil angels rule over them, to torment them day and night, 
asleep or awake, and in whatever circumstances they may be found. 
We permit no one to visit them, or employ them, or do them a 
favor, or give them salutation, or converse with them in any form, 
but let them be avoided as a putrid member and as hellish dragons." 
When the Friends began work in Palestine and Syria the priests 
said, " Cursed be you if you look at this English missionary, because 
he is not sent from God, but by the devil." When they bought a 
plot of ground on Mt. Lebanon for a training house they said, 
"Cursed be this place! Let no grass grow upon it, nor flower 
bloom upon it; let no tree grow upon this cursed place; cursed to 
eternity, because it belongs to the English people." The place 
flourished, nevertheless. But those priestly anathemas reveal the 
mental attitude of these churches toward all who may seek to arouse 
them out of the slumber of ages. 

I found T. E. Gibson, the American Consul, a very genial fellow. 
While I was in quarantine he wrote me a kind letter and sent me a 
bundle of papers. Mr. Gibson is from Augusta, Georgia, and knows 
the Lamars, and the Pcndletons, and George Darsie, and Z. T. 
Sweeney, and C. S. Lucas. He has the hospitality of the Southland. 
I spent several pleasant hours with him and Dr. Schauffler in the 
consulate. I shall remember their kindness many a long day. 

As the sun was setting, we weighed anchor, and steered away 
toward Jaffa, reaching our destination at daybreak. Though Jaffa 
has a bad harbor, it is the best on the coast of Palestine. Here 
Hiram sent the timber for Solomon's temple. From Jaffa, Jonah 
started on his memorable voyage. Here all pilgrims going to Jeru- 
salem land. 




'---^Lfeli..:^ 













'-11 las 



JERUSALEM. 




ST. PETER'S, ROME. 



LII. 

FROM JAFFA TO JEEUSALEM AND RETURN. 

It was in Jaffa that the Lord taught Peter that he was to call no 
man common or unclean. He was on the housetop of Simon, a 
tanner, at the time. This house is still pointed out. On the roof I 
read the account of Peter's vision. The guide took me to the site 
of the home of Dorcas. It was in this city that she did her good 
works and alms-deeds. Her return to life caused many to believe 
in the Lord. The influence of this woman has been felt in every 
part of Christendom. J. E. Hanauer, an agent of the London 
Jews' Society, is stationed here. He preaches to those who will 
listen, meets inquirers in the Book Depot, visits the people in their 
homes, and goes out to the Jewish colonies near Jaffa. He has 
Jewish blood in his veins, was born in Palestine, speaks several 
languages, and, as far as I could judge, is a capital man for the 
place. I found him an intelligent and agreeable gentleman. The 
Church Missionary Society is at work among the Moslems and 
others. Mr. Wolters is at the head of the mission. In the boys' 
school there are one hundred and thirty pupils and four teachers. 
Miss Arnott, a Scotch lady of means, has undertaken to educate the 
girls at Jaffa. She has a large boarding school and five day schools. 
The Church Society has several deaconesses here. I met Miss 
Armstrong and Miss Newton only. They visit the women in the 
city and in the district. The British Hospital is the principal relig- 
ious institution in Jaffa. It was built by Miss Bessie Mangan, the 
daughter of an Irish clergyman. She had a small fortune, and 
came to Palestine to work at her own charges. Within a year 
after her arrival she started a medical work. She learned dressing, 
bandaging and dispensing. She opened the hospital with twenty 
patients. The new building has forty-five beds. The in-patients 
number four hundred ancL seventy-eight; the out-patients nearly 
thirteen thousand. The staff consists of one physician, six deacon- 
esses, one dispenser, and two ward attendants. In the chapel there 
is a service before every clinic. Most of the patients are Moslems. 
A few are Jews, Druses, Roman Catholics, Protestants and Maron- 
ites. The walls are adorned with texts in different languages. The 

313 



314 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

New Testament is within the reach of all. Miss Watson took me 
all over the premises. The wards are clean and neat and cheerful. 
The faces of the nurses are bright and joyous. The patients mani- 
fest their gratitude in many ways. They kiss the hands and feet of 
those who care for them. Some are hard to manage. They swal- 
low a box of pills or powders in the papers and eat forbidden fruit. 
The deaconesses go out into the villages near Jaffa. Men and 
women gather about them and ask to hear something from the 
Book. They conduct mothers' meetings, a school for Moslem girls, 
and night schools, and a Bible-class for young men. Thousands of 
Moslems hear the Gospel every year. The light and love and life 
seen in this hospital must tell on the surrounding darkness. Miss 
Mangan, on one Christmas eve, made a feast for beggars. The 
blind, lame, diseased, people without hands or feet, cancerous, epi- 
leptic, in rags and dirt and loathsomeness unspeakable, assembled 
around her Christmas tree to hear the truth and to be warmed and 
filled. Years ago this saintly woman went to her reward. Miss 
Newton succeeded her as superintendent of the work. 

In the afternoon I took the train for Jerusalem. Some think 
this was what Isaiah had in mind when he spoke of " a highway and 
a way " over which the ransomed of the Lord shall return and come 
to Zion with songs and everlasting joy upon their heads. This can 
hardly be so, for the prophet said, "The unclean shall not pass over 
it." The train took us through the fertile plain of Sharon. In one 
field I saw a reaper at work; in all the others the harvesters used 
the sickle. The first stop was at Lydda. It was here that .ZEneas 
had been sick of the palsy for eight years. To him Peter said, 
"iEneas, Jesus Christ maketh thee whole; arise, and make thy 
bed." This miracle led all that dwelt at Lydda and Sharon to turn 
to the Lord. From this place Peter went to Joppa at the urgent 
call of the disciples, when Dorcas died. Our next stop was at Kam- 
leh. Tradition says this was the Arimathea of the Gospels. The 
guide pointed out the valley of Ajalon and said that it was over it 
Joshua commanded the moon to stand still. Far up the mountain 
he called attention to a place which is said to be Beth-horon. We 
passed through Samson's country, and saw the place where he 
caught the three hundred foxes whose tails he tied together with 
firebrands between them before sending them into the standing corn 
of the Philistines. We passed near Beth-Shemesh. It was in 
Ekron that the Philistines laid the ark on a new cart drawn by two 
milch kine whose calves were kept at home. The kine followed the 
highway till they came to the border of Beth-Shemesh. We saw 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM AND RETURN 31$ 

the ancient Bether. It was here that the Jewish nation, as such, 
ceased to exist. After a war with the Romans, lasting three years 
and a half , under Bar-Cochba, a false Messiah, eight hundred thou- 
sand Jews were put to death. Our train reached the Jerusalem 
station before sunset. 

Once Jerusalem was beautiful for situation, the joy of the 
whole earth. "Glorious things are spoken of thee, Zion, city of 
our God." The Psalmist said, "Walk about Zion, and go round 
about her; tell the towers thereof, mark ye well her bulwarks, con- 
sider her palaces." In Solomon's time silver was as plentiful as 
stones. It is not now. The streets are narrow and crooked and 
filthy. They are badly paved, and are neither lighted nor sewered. 
The water brought in from Solomon's Pools has been cut off. The 
people are extremely poor. Beggars are everywhere. I saw no 
palace and no home that looked as if it was occupied by a family 
possessed of wealth and culture. I was told that out of the forty 
thousand Jews in the city not more than four are rich. The govern- 
ment is the, worst on the globe. There is no incentive to industry 
and economy. If a man is successful he deems it prudent to hide 
his wealth. Nevertheless, Jerusalem is a place to which foreigners 
from all parts of the world come. It is sacred to the Christian, to 
the Jew and to the Moslem. Here the most stupendous events in 
the history of our race took place. Six miles away the Son of the 
Highest was born. In this city he preached and wrought miracles. 
Here he was tried and condemned. Without its walls he was cruci- 
fied and buried. He rose and brought life and immortality to light, 
and charged his disciples to go into all the world and preach the 
Gospel to the whole creation. Near by he ascended to the Father. 
Here the apostles tarried till the Spirit was poured out, and here on 
the day of Pentecost the first Gospel sermon was preached, and 
three thousand souls were added. To the Jews Jerusalem was the 
city of the great King. To it the tribes went up to give thanks to 
the name of the Lord. Jerusalem was the center of all their hopes 
and joys and aspirations. " Out of Zion, the perfection of beauty, 
God hath shined." To the Moslems the city is second to Mecca 
only. 

There is no lack of religious institutions. The Greeks have sev- 
enteen monasteries, and convents, and churches; the Latins have 
fifteen, while the Copts, Armenians, Syrians, and Abyssinians have 
buildings of their own. In the Church of the Holy Sepulchre there 
are between thirty and forty chapels and places of devotion. All 
the Eastern bodies have places of their own. These sects hate each 



316 A CIECUIT OF THE GLOBE 

other with a perfect hatred, and are so ready to fly at each other's 
throats that Turkish soldiers are kept on guard all the time to keep 
the peace. Bishops and priests and monks and nuns swarm on the 
streets. I was informed that while they are ready to compass sea 
and land to make proselytes, they do nothing whatever for the con- 
version of Jews and Moslems. If a Jew went near the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, he would be roughly handled, if not torn to 
pieces. Missions in Jerusalem are carried on by three societies and 
by some independent workers. Fisk and Parsons, agents of the 
American Board, were the first missionaries in modern times. The 
American Board, after some years, abandoned the field. 

Dr. Barclay spent three and a half years here. His great book 
is still regarded as one of the best on Jerusalem. The London Jews' 
Society has a church, schools for boys and girls, a house for inquir- 
ers, in which they are taught trades, a book depot, and a hospital. 
I went through all the buildings and saw all the work. Dr. Wheeler 
and his associates are busy early and late. The in-patients in one 
year number 900; the prescriptions 45,575; and the patients visited 
in their own homes, 5,676. I went with him part of one day. It is 
impossible to describe the destitution and misery of these poor Jews. 
At the same time they are as proud as Lucifer, and are insolent, 
unmanageable, and unthankful. Because of God's oath to Abra- 
ham they are going to be saved in any event; the coming of Christ 
is a mere detail. The Church Missionary Society works among the 
Moslems and among the decayed churches of the East. This 
Society has agents in Jerusalem, Jaffa, Nazareth, Salt, Nablous, 
Eamalleh, Gaza, Haifa, Acca, Ramleh, Kefer Yasif, and Bir Zeit. 
It has eleven clerical, four lay, twenty-five female, and ten native 
workers. It has forty-five schools, with 1,873 pupils; 544 commu- 
nicants; 232 in-patients, and 37,263 out-patients. Its policy is to 
have a church, a hospital, and a school at each station. The work- 
ers are expected to go into the towns and villages in the neighbor- 
hood, and publish the good tidings. 1 met most of the workers in 
the city. In Miss Welch's school there are 135 girls and twelve pre- 
paring to teach. I visited the famous school on Mt. Zion, founded 
by Bishop Gobat. There are fifty-four boys in the collegiate 
department and seventeen in the theological. When this school 
was started it was the only school in Palestine. Now there are a 
dozen of such schools conducted by the Latins and Greeks. Not 
only so, but the Turks have opened schools in every central town 
and in every village, and have prohibited Moslem children from 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM AND RETURN 317 

attending Christian schools. The school on Mt. Zion has more 
applicants than it can take. 

The Germans are doing a good work. Pastor Schneller has an 
orphanage with one hundred and fifty boys and twenty girls. He is 
enlarging the premises, and hopes to have a thousand in a year or 
two. The orphans are fed, clothed, educated, and taught trades. 
The cheerful old man took me through the establishment and 
showed me budding carpenters, blacksmiths, potters, turners, shoe- 
makers, tailors, printers, binders, and teachers and evangelists. He 
has been in this delightful work thirty-six years. From the orphan- 
age I went to the Talitha Kumi. This is a school for girls under the 
control of the Kaiserwerth Deaconesses. - There are one hundred 
and seventeen boarders, and some day pupils. The girls are taught 
the common branches and housekeeping, and some other things. 
This school has been in operation for fifty years. Across the way is 
a large hospital under the same management. On the way home I 
called at the Moravian Leper Asylum. The buildings are spacious 
and attractive. Scriptural texts cover the walls. Some of the 
inmates have no hands or eyes. The building will hold fifty. It is 
not more than half full. The superintendent told me that lepers 
prefer to marry and beg rather than submit to the discipline of 
the asylum. The Germans have a church in the city. 

Mr. Ben-Oliel and family are independent workers. He was 
born in Tangier of Jewish parents. He claims to be of the tribe of 
Judah and of David's line. The family motto is, "Arise, shine! " 
He was led to Christ in his youth, was educated for the ministry, 
and has spent forty years in the service. He has labored in Spain, 
in Rome, in North Africa, in Asia Minor, and in Palestine. He 
speaks eight or ten different languages. In his own hired house he 
meets Jews and Greeks and Moslems, and preaches the kingdom of 
God and teaches those things that pertain to the Lord Jesus. In 
the touring season he conducts services in an upper room. Mrs. 
Ben-Oliel has a class for mothers; Miss Evangeline has a girls' 
school, Miss Voltz has an industrial class. Two sons are in school 
in England, one is in Canada, Miss Florence is at work in the 
United States in the. interest of the mission. I visited this family 
three or four times. Mr. Ben-Oliel took me to the top of the house 
and showed me the city and its surroundings. He pointed out 
Gordon's Calvary, the Mosque of Omar, the Tower of David, the 
Mount of Olives, the mountains of Moab beyond the Valley of the 
Jordan and the Dead Sea, and the new part of Jerusalem without 
the walls. He went with me to several places of interest and 



318 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

explained, as only an intelligent enthusiast can, many things that 
were obscure to me. This family showed me no little kindness. 

Missionary work in Palestine is carried on in the face of many 
difficulties. The government is openly and actively hostile. Since 
England's recent humiliation it is more so than ever. There are 
decrees that accord religious liberty to all Turkish subjects. Pro- 
fessedly, all are equal before the law. But practically it is not so. 
If a Moslem should confess his faith in Christ, he would be drafted 
into the army, and in a few days he would die from poison or the 
sword. Confession means death. Among the Jews a convert is 
met with the scorn, contempt, and hatred of his people. He must 
renounce all hope of help which otherwise he would receive. Most 
of the people are entirely dependent on outside support. Their 
extreme poverty holds them back from avowing the truth* The 
priests warned their people not to attend the school conducted by 
Miss Ben-Oliel. The warning run thus: " If sons are born to those 
who disobey, there will be no one to circumcise them ; if any get 
married, there will be no one to give them the nuptial blessings; if 
any die, they will not be buried with the Jews." In the Eastern 
churches a convert is denounced and persecuted. Bishop Gobat 
hoped to reform these churches from within, but he found it impos- 
sible to do this. Those who called for reforms were driven out. 
When one was found reading the Bible he was required to kiss a pict- 
ure or kneel before it, or invoke the Virgin or some other saint, or else 
promise not to read the Bible any more. In spite of all these hin- 
drances the missionaries' work goes on. They are assured that God 
reigns, and that no power will be able to prevail against him. They 
are permeating society with Gospel truths and with new ideas ; they 
are making the people restive under despotism and eager for a 
change ; they are preparing them to come out and confess Christ when 
the day of freedom comes. They are driving the government to do 
what it never dreamed of doing before. Thus in Nazareth it has a 
girls' school with 700 enrolled; in Jerusalem it has another with 200 
pupils and a strong staff. Inquirers come to the missionaries and 
then go back to the priests for answer. They do this again and 
again, and compel their former teachers to meet their arguments or 
confess that they cannot. So the truth spreads and the kingdom is 
advanced. 

I visited the churches, convents and hospitals. I saw formal- 
ism, ritualism, ceremonialism, but few signs of spiritual life and 
power. The worshipers kiss, bow and pray, and go away as they 
came. Candles are burning everywhere, but the people walk in 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM AND RETURN 319 

darkness, though the true light is shining. In the company of a 
soldier, a messenger from the Consulate, and a sheikh, I visited the 
Mosque of Omar and the other mosque on the temple area. It was 
on this mount that Abraham offered Isaac. Here was the threshing 
floor of Oman, the Jebusite, where the plague was stayed. Here 
Solomon and Nehemiah and Herod each built a temple. The 
mosquejs a handsome building. Its dome is the most conspicuous 
object in Jerusalem. The other mosque was built by Justinian as a 
church. One cannot help being thrilled while standing on ground 
trod by prophets and kings and apostles and by the Son of God. 
Leaving the sacred inclosure, we came to the Jews' Place of Wail- 
ing. Men and women were kissing the stones that formed part of 
the wall around the temple, and weeping. They say in their sorrow, 
" The holy cities are a wilderness. Zion is a wilderness, Jerusalem 
a desolationo Our holy and beautiful house, where our fathers 
praised thee, is burned up with fire ; and all our pleasant things are 
laid waste." From the Psalms and Prophecies and Talmud they 
select appropriate passages to express their grief. 

I found a community known as "The Americans," though most 
of them are from other nations. They number about one hundred. 
I tried to learn their principles and practices. I found them more 
ready to argue than to explain. They do not believe in preaching, 
and hold no public services. They quote, " The life was the light 
of men." They have no schools, save one in which their own chil- 
dren are taught. Some of them teach in three Jewish schools. 
They teach German, French, music and drawing. If any one is sick 
they offer their services as nurses. If any come to them in need, 
they do what they can to afford relief. I asked one of the leading 
men what they were doing. He said: " We are waiting on God. He 
said, ' Thou shalt love the Lord thy God with all thine heart, and 
with all thy mind, and with all thy soul, and with all thy strength, 
and thy neighbor as thyself.' Is that not enough? " He went on 
to tell me that Christ waited for thirty years before he began his 
ministry. So they are waiting. They hear a voice behind them 
saying, "This is the way; walk ye in it." They are waiting for 
further guidance. They require wives and husbands to separate, 
and to be sisters and brothers. The leader has the seven eyes of 
God, and can discern thoughts and motives. Some of them have 
been here fifteen years. Some are growing old. For them the 
night is coming, and if they are going to do anything, it is high 
time they were setting about it. There is nothing in the Prophecies 
they do not understand. One woman began to talk about the tower 



320 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

of Hananeel and what the prophet had said about it, and many other 
things, till I was bewildered. I attended one of the services they 
hold for themselves. Each one took part just as he pleased. The 
comments were crude, and the repetitions a weariness to the flesh. 
The leader told me they were all poor; that they had no friends 
upon whom they could rely for support; that they published no 
reports; that, while they had seen very hard times, they were now 
out of debt; and that more had left all, as they had done, and 
were on their way to join them. I thought of the Frenchman's 
criticism of the charge of the Light Brigade: " This is magnificent; 
but it is not war." Thirty years ago, one hundred and fifty-five 
Americans came to Palestine to introduce the arts of civilization. 
They understood that the Jews were about to return, and the Mil- 
lennium was about to begin. Two are left. They still hold fast to 
their interpretation of the Prophecies, but are engaged in pursuits 
other than those contemplated when leaving America. 

I went several times to see the place that is now supposed by 
many to be Golgotha. It is outside the walls, not far from the 
Damascus Gate. Mr. Ben-Oliel pointed out the spot where he 
thinks the crosses stood. We went together to the garden of Geth- 
semane. There are olive trees of a great age, but it is not certain 
that they were there the night of the betrayal, or that the walls now 
standing inclose the real garden. But somewhere on that hillside 
the Savior prayed that the cup might pass without his drinking it. 
The valley of the Kedron lies between the garden and the city. 
Farther up the Mount of Olives he wept over Jerusalem. Over the 
ridge is Bethany. There he went for sympathy and rest at the close 
of busy days in the temple. The site of Bethphage was pointed 
out. From this village the young colt came on which he made his 
triumphal entry into the city. Somewhere near Bethany he said to 
the apostles: "But you shall receive power, after that the Holy 
Spirit is come upon you; and you shall be my witnesses both in Jeru- 
salem, and in all Judaea and Samaria, and unto the uttermost part of 
the earth." Here he ascended and sat down with the Father on his 
throne. As we were walking about the city we came to the tents of 
Dr. Bliss. He is now in charge of the Palestine Exploration Fund 
work. He showed us what discoveries- have been made and what 
they signify. Evidently the walls at one time inclosed a much 
larger area than they do now. He has discovered sections of a 
former wall and a gate on the edge of the valley of Jehoshaphat. It 
must be borne in mind that the walls have been broken down several 
times. The Romans plowed Zion like a field and sowed it with salt. 




ST. SOPHIA, CONSTANTINOPLE. 




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ARMENIAN SCHOOL IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM AND RETURN 321 

The debris in places inside the walls is not less than fifty feet deep. 
We passed the Pool of Siloam and some monuments of considerable 
antiquity, and followed the valley of the Kedron till we struck the 
road leading to our hotel. I could not help thinking of the strange 
fortunes of this city. David took it from the Jebusites. In after 
years it was taken by the Egyptian, the Babylonian, the Macedo- 
nian, the Asmonean, the Roman, the Persian, the Arabian, the 
Frank, and the Turk. The names of Peter the Hermit, of St. Ber- 
nard, of Godfrey, of the Baldwins, of Richard Cceur de Lion, of 
Saladin, of Philip Augustus, and others are inseparably connected 
with this city. 

In company with a friend I went down to the Jordan and the 
Dead Sea. On the way we passed through Bethany. There are 
some forty buildings, mostly in ruins. They show where the home 
of Mary and Martha stood, the grave of Lazarus, and the site of 
the house of Simon. Miss Crawford has built a mission house at 
the edge of the village. The government has scared away her girls, 
but they will return in a few weeks. The Dead Sea is a beautiful 
sheet of wafer. It is so salt that nothing can live in it. Six million 
tons of fresh water fall into it every day, but it is not sweetened. 
The Jordan is about thirty yards wide. It is a swift and muddy 
stream. We spent one night in Jericho. The village that bears 
this name is said to be built on the site of Gilgal. We were shown 
the ruins of ancient Jericho, the spring that Elisha healed, the 
scene of our Lord's temptation, the place where the Israelites 
crossed the Jordan, and Nebo and Pisgah beyond. On the way we 
rested for an hour at the Khan of the Good Samaritan. For some 
distance our road was in sight of the brook Cherith. It was here 
that Elijah was fed by the ravens. We made a second excursion to 
Hebron. We passed the tomb of Rachel, the place where Elijah 
slept one night and left the print of his body in the rock, the Pools 
of Solomon and the sealed fountain that supplied them. An 
English woman offered $100,000 to repair the pools and the pipes, 
but the government would not consent to have the work done except 
on conditions to which she could not accede. Hebron is in the Val- 
ley of Eshcol. It was here that the spies got the cluster of grapes 
which they carried back as a sample of the fruits of the land. It 
was in Mamre that Abraham dwelt. There God appeared to him 
and told him of his purpose to destroy Sodom. In the cave of 
Machpelah Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebekah and Jacob and 
Leah are buried. The Mohammedans have built a mosque over the 

cave. The Prince of Wales and several other persons have been 
21 



322 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

permitted to enter the cave, but all others are rigidly excluded. 
Here David reigned for seven years. Hebron is one of the strong- 
holds of Mohammedanism. The people are intensely fanatical. 
Mr. and Mrs. Murray, agents of the Missionary Alliance, have been 
conducting a school here for girls. They had seventy pupils. Four 
times has it been broken up. For three months no one has dared 
to come. Parents have been threatened with a ruinous fine and 
imprisonment in case they sent their children. Mr. Murray is lame, 
Mrs. Murray is blind, but they see the Invisible, and walk in his 
ways. They feel that they are doing the Lord's work, and they 
have entered into his joy. The Mildway Mission has four agents 
here and a large dispensary. Dr. Patterson is a cheery Scotchman; 
his helpers are as brave and as hopeful as he is. The authorities 
say, "We like your medicine, but not your preaching." They have 
tried to break down the work. A decree said that if any woman 
went to this place she would lose her veil, and her husband would 
be driven through the streets with this veil about his neck. The 
people are scared away for a time, and then return. The day I was 
there the patients numbered seventj^-two. Some days there are as 
many as one hundred and twenty. The workers in Hebron are, in 
my opinion, "friends of God" as truly as was Abraham. On the 
way home we visited Bethlehem, and saw the place where it is said 
Jesus was born of the Virgin, and where the manger in which he was 
cradled stood, and the field where the shepherds kept their flocks 
when the angels sang the first Christmas carol. This was the home 
of Ruth and Boaz, of Jesse and David. The women and children 
are cleaner and better looking than any others that I have seen in 
Palestine. There are churches without number in this place. The 
Germans have schools for boys and girls. At the close of a busy 
week in and about the Holy City, I took the train and returned to 
Jaffa. 



Lin. 

THINGS PALESTINIAN. 

In" Palestine the Monks and Moslems have located the scene of 
every important event. In most cases they have built a convent or 
chapel or mosque over it. The religious feeling and the desire for 
revenue are at the bottom of this. The" place from which the dust 
was taken to make man, the grave in which Adam was buried, the 
dunghill on which Job sat and scraped his boils with a potsherd, the 
olive tree in which Abraham found the ram caught by his horns, 
the cistern into which Joseph was thrown, the spot on which Eli- 
jah slept on the way to Horeb, the stones that would have cried out 
if the children would hold their peace, the place where the cock 
crew when Peter denied his Lord, the ground on which the tree 
from which the cross was made grew, the way our Savior was led 
from Pilate's judgment hall to be crucified, the place where he 
spoke to his mother, the point where Simon was compelled to bear 
the cross, the hole in which the cross stood, the rock that was rent 
during the earthquake, the stone on which he was anointed, the 
tomb in which he slept, the exact spot from which he ascended to 
the Father — these and many other places have been identified. Pil- 
grims follow the traditional route and stoop down and kiss the 
stones and wash them with their tears. They do not stop to think 
that the streets our Lord walked are fifty feet below those over 
which they walk. 

The claims of the Monks and Moslems are nearly all disputed. 
As accurate surveys are made it becomes clear that most of the 
places shown as the scenes of great events cannot be the true places. 
There is no event connected with our Lord's passion and death and 
triumph of which we can say with assurance that it took place on 
this precise spot. The Latins and Greeks have built the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre over " the alleged site of the crucifixion and 
burial, but competent judges hold that they were mistaken, and give 
such cogent reasons for their convictions that, to say the least, it is 
an open question. On the Mount of Olives the Mohammedans have 
a stone with a footprint in it, and they say that here our Lord stood 
just before he ascended. But the place does not fit the narrative. 

323 



324 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Luke sa3 7 s that he led them out until they were over against Beth- 
any; and he lifted up his hands, and blessed them. While he 
blessed them, he parted from them, and was carried up into heaven. 
But the stone of the Moslems is about two miles from Bethany. 
Speaking with Dr. Bliss about the uncertainty of the different 
places connected with interesting events, he said, "What does it 
matter? It is best so." Instead of thinking about places and wor- 
shiping them, we should rather think of the Christ and worship 
him. There is no room for doubt as to the site of Jerusalem and 
the temple, of the Valley of the Kedron and the Mount of Olives,, 
of Bethlehem and Bethany, of the Jordan and the Dead Sea and the 
Sea of Galilee. We can be certain as to the main features of the 
land, but not of the very places where great deeds were done or 
where great events took place. 

Most of the people in Jerusalem are supported by Baron Roths- 
child and other rich Jews. Sir Moses Montefiore, in his day, did 
much for his countrymen. I once heard Dr. Jessup make a remark 
to the effect that the early churches did a thing of doubtful propriety 
when they took up collections for the poor saints in Jerusalem, for 
they have been expecting collections ever since. There are no 
manufacturing concerns in or near Jerusalem aside from the indus- 
trial schools connected with the different missions. The country 
round about is a desert. The city is kept up by tourists and pil- 
grims and the gifts of people everywhere. It would be far better if 
such gifts were cut off and the people thrown on their own 
resources. The present system pauperizes them and robs them of 
their manhood. 

"Backsheesh" is the commonest word in Palestine and in the 
whole East. It is the first word you hear on your arrival and the 
last on your departure. It signifies a gift. Rich people give simply 
because people ask. Americans- are sinners above all others in this 
respect. Begging is a profession. It is as natural for these people 
to hold out their hands to a stranger as to breathe. Children are 
taught to do this as soon as they are born. I have heard little 
things that could scarcely walk or speak lisp " 'sheesh." Here, as 
elsewhere, money is power. Give a Customs official some back- 
sheesh and you can go through without a word. There is no door 
that will not open to the liberal hand. If you want attention at 
table or in your rooms or on the road, you can have it if you will pa} 
the price. Churches, forts, mosques demand backsheesh in some 
form. The Consul's servant brings you a letter and insists on back- 
sheesh. The donkey boy at the close of the day does the same. 



\ 



THINGS PALESTINIAN 325 

No matter how much you give, the recipient is not satisfied. Some 
millionaire gave more. Precedent is equivalent to a statute. One 
does it; hence all must do it. This is an ancient custom. Solomon 
gave Hiram some cities in return for help afforded him in building 
the temple. He was not satisfied, and sneered at the gift as if it 
was beneath his dignity to receive. A donkey boy uses the same 
language to-day. The whole business of giving gifts, whether we 
call them backsheesh or tips, is a nuisance. For every service there 
should be a fixed price. When that is paid the obligation should be 
discharged. In Palestine and in Pullman palace cars and in hotels, 
the demand for gifts in any shape is provoking. The system is 
un-American, and should be abolished. . 

People are more demonstrative than at home. When they get 
on or off a boat there is the greatest possible noise, and the least 
possible system or speed. Pandemonium is a Sunday-school in 
comparison. Passengers and boatmen engage in fierce altercations. 
A stranger expects to see blood flow in torrents, and wonders what 
disposition will be made of the dead. He is surprised to find that 
no blows are struck and no blood shed. After the storm there is a 
great calm, and all depart in peace and harmony. At weddings the 
mirth is boisterous. At funerals hired mourners tear their hair and 
scratch their faces and scream as if their sorrow was boundless. 
Men kiss each other and women kiss each other on all occasions. 
When one lovely woman kisses another lovely woman the perform- 
ance is stale, flat and unprofitable. The game is not worth the can- 
dle. When one big-bearded man kisses another big-bearded man on 
both cheeks and on the mouth, the performance is little less than 
scandalous. Not that kissing is to be always and everywhere and 
by all tabooed. The true view would seem to be expressed in the 
words, "A kiss in season, how good it is! " 

Many races and languages are represented in Palestine. In Jeru- 
salem there are between twenty and thirty languages spoken. On 
the day of Pentecost there were seventeen nations represented; 
there are more than that number now. One sees all kinds of dresses 
and people of all colors. A curious thing is this. The blacks do 
not envy the whites or feel any sense of social inferiority. Color 
counts for nothing. The- blackest Soudanese and the brownest 
Bedouin feels as contented with his complexion as the whitest 
tourist from the North. The Moslem is catholic in his tastes. He 
takes black and brown and white beauties into his harem. The 
children are all equal. 

Women are the inferior sex. Few can read. Little concern is 



326 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

felt for their education. Marriage is the great goal of every girl's 
life. She is married at ten or twelve. Dr. Post tells of a grand- 
mother aged twenty. Mothers' meetings are often made up of mere 
children in age, and babes in intelligence. Early marriage is an 
obstacle in the way of a thorough training. In Palestine Moslem 
women cover the whole face. In Egypt the eyes are visible. 
Divorce is easy and common. A Moslem says of his divorced wife, 
" She was my slipper, but I kicked her off." The marriage bond is 
as slight as that between the slipper and the foot. Owing to her 
degradation, she is not expected to have anything to do with relig- 
ion. Thomson says, "Women never join in the prayers in the 
mosque." There is a place where they can hear, but that is sepa- 
rated from the auditorium by a screen. Spanish Jewesses are 
expected to go to the synagogue only once a year. Woman occu- 
pies a higher place in China than in Moslem lands. 

In Palestine one sees the effects of bad government. In Solo- 
mon's time the population must have been 5,000,000; now it is 
about 650,000. In a trip to the Dead Sea we saw very few people. 
We met some Bedouins from Ramoth-gilead and the Jordan valley 
going to market. Every man had a long musket on his back and a 
sword or a knife in his belt. Their goods were on camels or asses. 
Tourists are required to take a military escort. If England or 
America was in Palestine there would be peace and safety. We 
saw some black tents occupied by nomads, but very few houses. 
The country is rocky and sterile. It is difficult to see how such a 
land could support a teeming and prosperous population. Pales- 
tine was called a land of wheat and barley, a land of fountains and 
depths, a land whose stones were iron, and out of whose hills the 
people could dig brass. It is not so now. One sees no vine-clad 
hills and no fertile valleys. Bad government causes the land not to 
yield her fruit. Trees are cut down to escape ruinous taxation. 
Flocks and herds are slaughtered for the same reason. There is no 
legal limit to the taxes imposed: If a farmer has one-tenth left for 
himself he is fortunate. If he refuses to pay the amount asked, it 
is doubled, and soldiers are quartered in his house. Before they 
will leave the last farthing must be paid, and every soldier must 
have a gift. With a good government the valleys would be covered 
with corn and the hills would bear grapes and figs and olives and 
pomegranates. Instead of the parched ground there would be a 
pool and grass with reeds and rushes. Gladstone has said that the 
function of government is to make it easy to do right and hard to 
do wrong. That is not the Turkish conception, but to tax the peo- 



THINGS PALESTINIAN 327 

pie. The Turkish power is not a government in any true sense of 
the word, but an instrument of oppression. The people are poor; 
under Turkish misrule they can never be rich. The worst elements 
of human nature are brought to the surface. Under an absolutism 
the subject races are compelled to resort to lying and subterfuge. 
Truth would result in spoliation and death. The government is 
opposed to Christian education. It fears schools more than any 
thing else. 

I was in Palestine in June. The tourists were all gone. On 
this account the expenses were not more than half as much as in 
the season. The sun was not oppressively hot. In Jerusalem I 
slept under warm covers every night. The fleas and mosquitoes did 
not trouble'me. I had heard much of these pests, and expected to 
be devoured by them. I thought of pennyroyal and insecticide and 
nets and screens. But I did not suffer. If there were any of these 
noxious creatures about they left me alone. It is said that the king 
of the fleas holds his court in Tiberias. It may be that his subjects 
were there in attendance upon his majesty. In any event I was 
thankful to be relieved of their presence and attention. 

What of the future of this land hallowed for all time by the life 
and death and resurrection of the Son of God? Some are looking 
for the return of the Jews precedent to the coming of the Christ in 
power to carry on to completion the redemption of the world. 
Meanwhile other nations covet Palestine. Russia wants it. She 
has large buildings in Jerusalem and elsewhere. She has erected 
high towers for military purposes. From these one can look over 
the whole land. France wants it and Syria as well. The govern- 
ment could not be worse ; it would be better under any other power. 
Palestine is still the Holy Land. To it pilgrims come from all parts 
of the earth and read the Divine Book on the ground where it was 
written with such sidelights as they can get from the geography and 
climate. 



LIV. 

FROM JAFFA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Leaving Jaffa, the first place of importance passed was Csesarea. 
This was the home of Cornelius. Here Peter preached and opened 
the door of faith to the Gentiles. Here Philip the evangelist and 
his four daughters that prophesied lived. Before the fall of Jeru- 
salem Csesarea was the chief political city in Palestine. It was the 
residence of the Roman procurators. Here Paul was kept in prison 
for two years. Here he reasoned with Felix of righteousness, tem- 
perance and the judgment to come. Here he spoke before Festus 
and Agrippa and Bernice. Csesarea is now in ruins. Our first call 
was made at Haifa, at the base of Carmel. Leaving Haifa, we pro- 
ceeded to Beirut, and spent part of the day there. Between these 
points are Acre and Tyre and Sidon. Before Acre three hundred 
thousand Crusaders perished. Tyre was mistress of the sea. This 
was once the crowning city, whose merchants were princes, whose, 
traffickers were the honorable of the earth. Tyre said of herself, 
*' I am a God, and sit in the seat of God, in the midst of the seas; I 
am of perfect beauty." By her wisdom and understanding she got 
riches, and because of her riches she lifted up her heart and forgot 
God. We are told that from Arabia and Abyssinia on the south to 
Armenia and Georgia on the north, and from the frontiers of India 
to the utmost isles of Greece, and far beyond, caravans by land and 
ships by sea carried a commerce rarely excelled in extent or variety 
by any city of any age or country. To this proud and voluptuous 
city God said, " I will make thee like the top of a rock; thou shalt 
be a place to spread nets upon." Tyre was destroyed by Nebuchad- 
nezzar, by Alexander and by the Saracens. 

" Dim is her glory, gone her fame, 
Her boasted wealth has fled ; 
On her proud rock, alas! her shame, 
The fisher's net is spread. 

" The Tyrian harp has slumbered 'long, 
And Tyria's mirth is low ; 
The timbrel, dulcimer and song 
Are hushed, or wake to woe." 

At one time great nations were found around the Mediterranean. 
From all these the glory has departed. This is true of Syria, Phce- 

328 



FROM JAFFA TO CONSTANTINOPLE 329 

nicia, Palestine, Philistia, Egypt, Carthage, Rome, and Greece. 
The commercial supremacy enjoyed by Tyre, Alexandria, and 
Venice has passed to London and Liverpool, to New York, Chicago, 
and San Francisco. Only the sea remains as it was. "Time writes 
no wrinkles on thy azure brow; such as creation's dawn beheld, 
thou rollest now." Its beauty remains, but its relative importance 
is much less now than it was two thousand years ago. 

From Beirut we went on to Tripoli and spent several hours 
there, taking on and putting off cargo and passengers. From there 
we steamed on to Latakia and Alexandretta. This last place is the 
port of Aleppo. On the way we passed Selucia and Antioch with- 
out calling. At one time Antioch was jthe third city on the globe. 
It was " The Eye of the East." In the history of the church it is 
second only to Jerusalem. Some men from Cyprus and Cyrene 
preached in this city to the Greeks. The hand of the Lord was with 
them, and a great number that believed turned to the Lord. Barna- 
bas was sent to Antioch by the mother church. He found the work 
so great that he needed an associate, and went to Tarsus and brought 
Saul back with him. They labored here a whole year. In Antioch 
trie disciples were first called Christians. Here the Holy Spirit said, 
" Separate me Barnabas and Saul for the work where unto I have 
called them." From this point they started on their first mission- 
ary tour. From Selucia they sailed to Cyprus. As we crossed their 
course I read the account given in the Acts. Though Antioch has 
fallen, and though Mohammedanism has displaced Christianity as 
the dominant faith, it is pleasant to know that a little group of 
Disciples of Christ meet there week by week to break bread and to 
exhort one another to cleave to the Lord with purpose of heart. 
Our next stop was at Mersina, the port of Tarsus in Cilicia, the 
birthplace of Paul, the grandest man of the ages. Mersina is a 
flourishing place. The Reformed Presbyterians are at work here. 
We left in the evening. The next morning we were in Larnaka, 
Cyprus. I went ashore and called at the Presbyterian mission. The 
man in charge can speak a little English. He explained that an 
American was coming to take charge of the work. Paul and Bar- 
nabas and John landed at Salamis, and went through the whole 
island to Paphos. There J;hey met Elymas, the sorcerer, and Ser- 
gius Paulus, the proconsul. Because of his opposition the sorcerer 
was smitten with blindness. The proconsul, seeing what was done, 
believed, being astonished at the teaching of the Lord. Cyprus is 
now a British colony, and is increasing in wealth and in population. 
Missionaries are free to enter and preach and teach Christ. From 



330 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Cyprus we proceeded to Ehodes. After a few hours we continued 
our voyage. We saw land all day. The isles of Greece were on 
the left and Asia Minor on the right. One of the seamen pointed 
out Patmos, the scene of John's splendid visions. Our last call 
before reaching Smyrna was at Chios, the birthplace of Homer. 

Every Turkish village and city has its mosques. From the min- 
aret the muezzin calls the people to prayer five times a day. Once 
all Asia Minor was Christian soil. Paul reasoned and persuaded as 
to the things concerning the kingdom of God. "And this continued 
for a space of two years; so that all they who dwelt in Asia heard 
the word of the Lord, both Jews and Greeks." The apostasy fore- 
told took place. The people became engrossed in the discussions 
about dogmas and pictures, and the enemy came in like a flood and 
swept them all away. 

On going ashore at Smyrna I got a guide and started to find the 
Isaac Errett Memorial Chapel. On the way we met one of the 
brethren. He could speak a few words of English. The building 
is in a good part of the city, and is well suited to the purpose. For 
five years there has been no pastoral oversight. As a result, some 
have gone back to the world. Those that remain are anxious that 
some one should be sent to aid them. Smyrna is a thriving city. 
The population numbers two hundred and fifty thousand. The 
American Board has a large work here. Besides preaching, it has a 
number of schools. In those schools English, Arabic, Turkish and 
Armenian are taught. All these languages are needed in this city. 
Mr. McLachlan, formerly of Toronto, explained to me the nature 
and extent of the work. The German Baptists have one man here. 
He was born in the East, and speaks many tongues. He came from 
America a year or two ago. I was told that there are no Turks in 
business in Smyrna. The Turks cannot compete with Greeks, Syri- 
ans and Armenians. In every case they go to the wall. This is one 
reason why the Turks hate the Christians. Their daily prayer is 
that the lives and possessions of the " infidels " should be given to 
the "faithful." Col. Madden, of Danville, 111., is the American 
Consul in Smyrna. He is proud of the fact that he is an American, 
and is pleased to see Americans. In the touring season he goes out 
in a boat with the American flag flying to meet his countrymen, and 
to render them any assistance in his power. The Customs officer 
searched my pockets and felt me all over from head to foot. I 
asked him if that was right. He got his hat and cane and went 
with me to the Customs house. He spoke to the official in a way 
that alarmed him. He confessed his fault, apologized, and pledged 



FROM JAFFA TO CONSTANTINOPLE 331 

himself not to do so again. This was not the first time that an 
American citizen had been subjected to this indignity, but the Con- 
sul is determined that it shall be the last. Praise God for such 
consuls as T. R. Gibson, of Beirut, and Col. Madden, of Smyrna. 
The Turks have not dined and wined and flattered their American- 
ism out of them. They are Americans first and last and always, 
and they take delight in assisting and protecting Americans when- 
ever they can do so. Smyrna was the seat of one of the seven 
churches of Asia. The others were in Ephesus, Pergamos, Thya- 
tira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea. None of the seven now 
exists. When the Turks took possession of Asia Minor their only 
conception of land was that it could be only profitably used as pas- 
ture. Cities were destroyed that their sites might be used to raise 
grass to feed flocks and herds. Smyrna was the home of Polycarp. 
When he was called upon to deny his Lord he said : " Eighty-six 
years have I served him, and he has done me good and not evil; 
how then can I deny him? " He did not renounce his Lord. 

Our first call after leaving Smyrna was made at Mitylene. After 
a little we' rounded the cape of the Troad and caught our first 
glimpse of Europe. We saw the plain where the long duel between 
the Greeks and the Trojans was fought. Homer has immortalized 
the place and the contestants. We know Achilles and Agamemnon 
and Ajax and Diomede and Ulysses and Nestor and Hector and Paris 
and Priam as well as we know the heroes of the Revolution. We 
saw Mt. Ida and the Scamander. Here it was that Paul "saw in a 
vision a man of Macedonia," and heard him say, "Come over into 
Macedonia and help us." In answer to that call he carried the 
Gospel to Europe. We were obliged to stop at the Dardanelles 
and show our papers. Here are strong forts armed with Krupp 
guns. A little further on we came to the place where Xerxes built 
his bridges. The sea swept away his work. In anger he scourged 
the sea and threw fetters into it. Here the Ottoman Turks crossed 
and set up their standard in Europe. Here Leander and Byron 
swam across the stream. Further on still is Gallipoli, the first 
European town taken by the Turks. This is at the entrance to the 
Sea of Marmora. The Hellespont is thirty-three miles long; the 
Marmora is one hundred .and ten miles. We fell asleep soon after 
entering the Marmora. The next morning we dropped anchor in 
the Golden Horn. 



LV. 
CONSTANTINOPLE, GIOL DAGH AND BARDEZAG. 

We had scarcely dropped anchor when G. N. Shishmanian 
and his son John came to the boat to help me through the 
Customs Office and to take me to their own home. Enter- 
ing a civilized country is a simple matter; but Turkey is not 
that. Turkey is the only country that required me to show my 
passport before allowing me to land. The guide books say that 
if one will give the official a franc, one's baggage will be exam- 
ined at once and very slightly. I was in favor of doing this, but 
Mr. Shishmanian is opposed on principle to bribing officials. He 
has lost thousands of pounds because he would not bribe Turkish 
officers to do their duty. For this reason the bulk of his patrimony 
has been tied up in the courts for years, and is likely to remain 
there for all time. I could not but admire his conscience, though 
it cost me four times as much in the end as if I had followed the 
guide books. Because I did not hand the official a franc, my bag- 
gage was detained, that my books and papers might be scrutinized. 
Only one objectionable paper was found. The Turks are very care- 
ful as to the books and papers they admit. An Englishman had his 
copy of Milton seized. The reason assigned was that Milton had 
spoken disrespectfully of Adam. They consider Adam a distant 
relative, and they will brook no reflections upon him. Leaving the 
baggage in the Customs Office we went to the Mission House. The 
whole family united in giving me a genuine Kentucky welcome. I 
was at home in the twinkling of an eye. 

The Mission home is in the Armenian quarter. The services are 
held in a part of the house. I spoke twice through Mr. Shish- 
manian. These were seasons of refreshing from the presence of 
the Lord. The day school has eighty-five pupils; it could have 
three hundred if there was room. For five years Mr. Shishmanian 
has been trying to get a permit to carry on this work. He has sub- 
mitted the text-books used and the certificates of the teachers and 
the programme of the school. He has been promised a permit, but 
has not received it. When we called at the Legation the interpre- 
ter said that the Minister of Education told him the permit was 

332 



CONSTANTINOPLE, GIOL, BAGS AND BABBEZAG 333 

ready, and to ask Mr. Shishmanian to call and get it. We called 
that very day. The Minister was delighted to see us, and treated 
us to cigarettes, and asked what he could do for us. The business 
was explained in a few words. He said that the clerk that had the 
matter in hand was not in, but he would attend to it and let him. 
know when he could call and get it. He will hear no more until it 
is necessary to harass him again. As the case stands, the police 
can close the school at any time. When the property was damaged 
with the earthquake he asked for a permit to make repairs. He 
was put. off from time to time with plausible excuses. Then he 
employed men and put them to work. The police called and for- 
bade him to proceed. He locked the .doors and went on. The 
police called to the workers through the key-hole to stop, but they 
were as deaf as adders, and kept right on till the work was done. 

The second morning after my arrival we started to visit the 
brethren at Griol Dagh and Bardezag. We left home before day 
and reached the railway terminus in the evening. The next day we 
took horses, and, after a ride of six hours, reached Giol Dagh. 
There are no roads most of the way. Our guide had never been to 
the place, and we got lost. After wandering about like babes in 
the woods, we found the trail and soon reached the village. The 
people poured out to see us, and made every provision for our com- 
fort. They gave us the best rooms, and killed and cooked their 
tenderest chickens. We had two public services. In the evening 
they filled the house, and we had singing, Scripture reading and 
prayer. One woman was pointed out to me. Her husband used to 
threaten to kill her if she did not cease coming to these meetings. 
She manifested the wisdom of the serpent and the harmlessness of 
the dove and the amiable obstinacy of her delightful sex, and gained 
her husband. Now he is as devoted as she is. One man threat- 
ened to kill Mr. Shishmanian. Now he is one of the most active 
men in the place. There are thirty-five believers in all. Eleven of 
these have been added recently. They need a house which they 
can use as a school and a chapel. They have a lot and the timber 
and the stones; they need $125 to pay the carpenters and masons 
for their work. The people are very poor. They live in the sim- 
plest style. Their raiment and homes are of the most primitive 
character. They are far from markets and are heavily taxed. 
They are afraid to raise fruits for themselves. If they did the 
Turks would rob them. They are so situated that they cannot 
prosper. Children are as plentiful as blackberries. If the saying, 
"Happy is the man whose quiver is full of them," applies here, 



334 A CIBCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

these people must be unspeakably happy. The village is sur- 
rounded with Turks. In the past winter men were on guard every 
night. One night was fixed upon for an attack. That evening the 
Turks heard that the Armenians were rising, and that it behooved 
them to be on their guard. Because of this rumor there was no 
massacre. Giol Dagh is high up on the mountain side. The 
believers meet to sing and pray and to celebrate the Lord's death 
and to exhort one another to hold fast the beginning of their confi- 
dence steadfast unto the end. 

Leaving Giol Dagh and coming down into the valley, we took a 
train for Nicoinedia. At this point we left the railway, crossed the 
bay, and took a carriage for Bardezag. We found the people busy 
with their silk worms. Most of the men were away at work in the 
mountains. Those that were at home were pleased to see us, and 
gathered in the evening for a service. Their joy and gratitude were 
very touching. Here, as everywhere, the people are extremely 
poor. One family connected with the church is in fairly good 
circumstances, but they are preparing to migrate to America. 
There are about thirty disciples in Bardezag. They need a teacher 
and preacher and a house of their own. We returned to Nicome- 
dia the next day, and saw the brethren there. There are only three 
in all. We comforted and exhorted them and departed. Nicome- 
dia was once the capital of the Roman Empire. Here Diocletian 
bad his palace and throne. Here he originated and superintended 
one of the " ten persecutions," and at its close wrote on the coins 
of the Empire, "The Christian religion has been destroyed." 
Here, after his abdication, he cultivated cabbages and turnips. 
Nicomedia is now a place of no consequence. That afternoon we 
took a train and returned to Constantinople. 

One is not in Turkey long before one gets some practical knowl- 
edge of Turkish officials and Turkish misrule. When we came to 
the end of our journey we asked the Chief of Police to register our 
passports. He said that was not necessary, and handed them back. 
No sooner had we reached Nicomedia than the police asked to see 
our passports. They said that they had not been registered as they 
should have been at the end of the journey, and that we must pay a 
fine of twenty-five piasters each. Mr. Shishmanian told him what 
the Chief of Police had said, but no explanation would avail; we 
must pay the fine. There was no alternative. On our way down 
from Giol Dagh our guide led us up to the front of the station, 
instead of making a long circuit and coming up from the rear. 
The ticket agent would not sell any tickets till we paid a fine of two 



CONSTANTINOPLE, GIOL, DAGR AND BARDEZAG 335 

hundred piasters. We had no choice. We could not ride on the 
train without tickets, and we could not get the tickets without 
paying the fine. 

Mr. Shishnianian's history and work are full of interest. He 
was born in Asia Minor, and took a course in Dr. Hamlin's 
Academy on the Bosporus. He spent some time in Egypt as an 
interpreter, and then went to America. At that time he hated the 
Disciples with a perfect hatred. He made the acquaintance of John 
Tomline Walsh, but when he heard that he was a Disciple he would 
neither visit nor eat with him. In Dallas, Texas, a quiet business 
man asked him to go to church with him, without saying anything 
to him about the church. Kirk Baxter was the preacher. He 
presented some truths in a new light. The hearer was interested 
and went again. It was not long till he was baptized. Soon after 
he was in Lexington preparing himself for the work of the minis- 
try. God led him back to Turkey, and has protected and guided 
him ever since. He can eat anything and sleep anywhere. He 
sings and talks all day. He enters into all the trials and sorrows of 
his flock. They come to him for counsel and assistance. He is a 
father to the poor. His house is a castle. American flags hang on 
the wall. The people feel secure under his roof. . I was reminded 
constantly of the words, " The name of the Lord is a strong tower; 
the righteous run into it and are safe." No wonder the people 
love him and confide in him. No wonder there are faces that watch 
for his coming, and, look brighter when he comes. Mrs. Shish- 
manian was born in Lexington. She has the pluck of her race. 
Should the Sultan order a massacre in Constantinople, she will give 
a good account of herself. Of her it can be said that she has 
labored much in the Lord, and " has been a succorer of many, and 
of mine own self." John is a young man nearly grown. He is a 
fine lad, and will make his mark. He is a student in Robert Col- 
lege. His mind inclines to architecture. I feel sure he will yet 
find his way into the ministry. He and his sister, Orienta, aid in 
the music and in many other ways. They sing and play well. 
Lucy is the youngest, and is the pride and joy of the family. May 
the blessings of the Most High God be upon her and all dear to her. 
One cannot be in that family very long without feeling, "Surely 
the Lord is in this place; this is none other than a house of God 
and a gate of heaven." 



LVI. 
MISSIONS IN TUKKEY. 

Mr. and Mrs. Shishmanian reached Constantinople and began, 
work in 1879. The Gospel was preached publicly and from house 
to house. Schools were opened and children taught. Tracts were 
published. These were carried far and near. The converts were 
scattered throughout the Empire. Dr. Kevorkian joined the mis- 
sion later. He made Marsivan the center of his operations. 
Besides preaching and teaching he carries on a medical work. 
Hohannes Karagiozian was employed for a time in Marash. Other 
helpers have been raised up from time to time. As a result of this 
diversified activity, many heard, believed, and were baptized. The 
converts from the first, so far as they are known, number about one 
thousand. 

Owing to sickness, the missionary family moved to Bardezag and 
lived there for a season. Mrs. Shishmanian gave me a graphic 
account of the first baptism. The house was full, and hundreds 
were without. They were eager to see and hear. They crowded 
about the door and tried to force an entrance. The wife of the 
owner of the building seized a club and stood at the door and said, 
"I am not a Baptist, but if any man comes in here he will get his 
head smashed." One lad hid himself in the ladies' robing room 
and watched the proceedings and listened to the preaching through 
a hole in the floor. The women discovered him and squealed as 
usual, and called for help. Mr. Shishmanian came to the rescue, 
and led the lad out by the ear. About midnight many left and the 
others became so quiet that the baptisms could proceed. Seventeen 
were buried with Christ on a confession of their faith in him. The 
woman that stood guard at the door was baptized subsequently, and 
is one of the most faithful of the flock. 

Those who read the tracts sent out by Mr. Shishmanian wanted 
fuller information concerning the matters treated in the tracts. 
They sent him urgent invitations to visit them. He has visited 
Smyrna, Adana, Biridjik on the Euphrates, Zarah, Sevas, Erzeroum, 
Bitlis on the Lake of Van, and many other places. When he was 
in Adana, Cilicia, a young man named Leon Filian came from Tar- 

336 




JJgi- ..**) 



MISSIONS IN TURKEY 337 

sus, bringing a letter from Moses Filian, his father, asking him to 
visit Tarsus, if possible, on his way to Marsivan. He had read 
some of the tracts, and desired an interview. Two days later he 
visited Tarsus. They talked till midnight, and spent all the follow- 
ing day discussing and searching the Scriptures. Late in the even- 
ing father and son were fully convinced of the truth, and expressed 
a desire to be baptized. The next morning they were baptized in 
the River Cydnus. The father returned to Antioch and preached 
the Gospel there. There is now a church of thirty souls in that 
place. In June last, Mr. Shishmanian received a letter from a man 
who said: " Six years ago one of your tracts came into my hands 
and became the means of the salvation of my soul." He did not 
know the writer or the place of his abode. The letter went on to 
say that when he made known his convictions, the church of which 
he was a member thrust him out. He remained aloof from them 
for two years. When he heard of Azariah Paul he sent for him and 
was baptized. Since then he has preached to the best of his ability, 
and has baptized quite a number. At his preaching there are some- 
times twenty-five, and sometimes more, present. Malkhas Melco- 
nian, a blind beggar, preached in Russia. He knew the Bible by 
heart. On his travels he fell in with one of the brethren and was 
baptized. He preached in Nachtiven and Shushee, and baptized 
seventeen. The Russian authorities arrested him and kept him in 
prison for three months, and took away his blind books. After he 
was let go he preached in Russia and in Turkey. Dr. Kevorkian 
lives in Marsivan, but he has opened a number of stations in that 
part of the country. 

The work is carried on in the face of many difficulties and dis- 
couragements. Nothing can be done among the Moslems. They 
will not permit any book or paper attacking Mohammedanism to be 
published. No new school can be opened without the consent of 
the Sultan. That means that it cannot be opened at all. No per- 
mit to erect a school or a church can be obtained. Old laws are 
stringently enforced, and new laws, more severe than the old, are 
enacted. Officials are suspicious, and scent mischief where no mis- 
chief exists. Mr. Shishmanian took me to see a brother who had 
been in exile for seven years-. He had been a school teacher in Sevas, 
and was respected by all who knew him. One day a brother asked 
him to write some words for him in Armenian and Turkish. These 
words were stuck on a board and carried through the streets. The 
words ran thus: "O men and brethren, perhaps this is our last 
day, and who knows whether we shall be alive to-morrow ! There- 

22 



338 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

fore let us repent and leave off all our sins, and pray to God that 
he may teach us the way of truth, for the fearful day of judgment 
is at hand." This man preached some, and wanted to get an audi- 
ence. For this act they were arrested and sent to Africa. After 
reaching the coast they were supplied with a camel and some bread, 
and given to some Arabs to escort them to Fezzan. The Arabs 
would not let them ride the camel or eat the bread. With some 
money they bought a kid. The Arabs used to say, "Pigs, become 
Mohammedans, or we will cut your throats." They drew their 
swords across their necks to give emphasis to their threats. They 
took them by force and circumcised them. They were allowed 
three loaves a day, and nothing else. They sold one and got some 
fuel to warm their drinking water or to get some vegetables. 
One died soon after reaching Fezzan, the other is in Constanti- 
nople, but he is afraid to go to church lest he should be arrested on 
the way. Last winter some fifteen or twenty of the brethren were 
massacred. Among the number was the blind beggar who had 
preached in Russia. He was asked to become a Mohammedan. He 
refused, and was murdered. 

The Armenians are living in such . dread that they do not dare 
to attend the services. Not only so, but they are afraid to sleep at 
night. In the morning they say, " Would God it were evening; " 
and in the evening they say, "Would God it were morning." There 
are rumors of all kinds in the air; it is impossible to verify them. 
If the Sultan orders a massacre, all who can are to make a bee-line 
for the mission premises. As many as can get in will be safe. 
There they will be under the protection of the American flag. But 
what of the thousands that cannot get in? They will fare as Arme- 
nians fared elsewhere. We know what their fate was. In one 
place the eyes of four hundred men were gouged out and strung 
like beads on a string. Three hundred girls and women were 
stripped and made to parade the streets. A hundred choice Arme- 
nian youths were bound like sheep for the slaughter. Sheikhs, 
reciting verses from the Koran, went along and cut their throats. 
In one place the people took refuge in the cathedral, expecting to 
find it a sanctuary. Soldiers went into the pulpit, and after the 
doors were locked began to shoot. This process being too slow they 
used the sword. Their arms growing weary, they saturated the 
building and people with coal oil and applied the torch. Mrs. 
Shishmanian told me how the son of her washerwoman was treated. 
He was arrested and asked what he knew about some secret society. 
He was a simple lad, and carried the clothes his mother washed 



MISSIONS IN TURKEY 339 

backward and forward. He knew nothing and could tell nothing. 
They tortured him by rolling him in hot ashes, and then asked him 
to tell what he knew. He could tell nothing. Then they poured 
alcohol on the back of his hands and set the alcohol on fire and 
burned off the cords. The poor boy is a cripple for life. Old 
women were stripped to the waist, and boiling water poured over 
them, to extort confessions. We hear of the meekness of Moses 
and the patience of Job, but these ancient worthies lived in better 
times and among civilized people. The Pharaohs were very decent 
fellows compared with the Sultan and his underlings. And as for 
dear old Job sitting on a dung-hill and scraping his boils with a 
potsherd, that was positive recreation compared with what mis- 
sionaries in Turkey undergo every day. In the midst of it all our 
missionaries never forget that they are Christian gentlemen, and 
never cease to exhibit the gentleness and patience of Christ. Talk 
of heroism! This is the genuine article in a concrete form and 
of the purest and highest type. In no part of the world, not in 
Africa or China, is mission work so perilous and discouraging as 
in Turkey.' 

We called on the workers of the American Board. This Board 
has been in Turkey for many years, and has done a great work. It 
has twenty-six central stations and over three hundred out-stations. 
In these are one hundred and seventy-six American missionaries. 
The Board has property worth $650,000. The work has five depart- 
ments, namely, the Publication, the Educational, the Evangelistic, 
the Medical, and the Relief. In times of famine, pestilence, or per- 
secution, the last is the most important. There are fifty-one col- 
leges and high schools, and four theological seminaries, and many 
common schools. The whole number of schools is 20,496; the 
whole number of native teachers, 564. Medical work is carried 
on in Aintab, Csesarea, Mardin and Van. The evangelistic work 
is considered of supreme importance. The present number of 
churches is 125; of members, 12,787. The places for stated 
preaching are 327 ; average congregations, 34,370; ordained native 
preachers, 100; unordained preachers, 128. 

In the recent massacres the American Board suffered greatly. 
The property destroyed is^estimated at $125,000. Twenty preachers 
and teachers were murdered. One teacher was sent to prison for 
ten years. His offense was this: A copy of the London Times 
containing Lord Salisbury's speech was found in his house. The 
prisons are full of people. They are not brought to trial; no 
charge is made against them ; their crime is this : They are Chris- 



340 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

tians. The missionaries have acted a noble part, they have stood 
by their flocks and rendered such assistance as they could. There 
is no doubt that their presence awed the Turks and kept them from 
doing many things that they had it in their hearts to do. In Har- 
poot the American missionaries and three hundred Christians were 
in one building. A committee of Mollahs came and called Dr. Bar- 
num out and said, "Your only hope is in becoming Moham- 
medans." Dr. Barnum said that that was impossible. The Mollahs 
went back to the others. The people within sang a hymn, prayed 
and pledged each other to die rather than deny the faith. The 
building was set on fire, but the Mollahs did not wish to kill so 
many Americans and drew off. Some boys went down and put out 
the fire. At one point the friends of the missionaries used their 
rifles and saved the girls' school from outrages worse than death. 
The Board was able to forward thousands of dollars, and to success- 
fully intervene when all other help failed. Hundreds of thousands 
of destitute persons were fed and clothed, and, while overwhelmed 
by unexampled and immeasurable calamity, were pointed to the 
consolations of the Gospel. The work done by the agents of the 
Board during the past year is deserving of world-wide recognition 
and honor. They shall have their recompense at the resurrection 
of the just. 

Those who know most about the condition of the country urged 
me not to go to Marsivan to see Dr. Kevorkian. Brigands of all 
kinds abound. Eecently two women connected with the legations 
were seized and carried off to the mountains. The government 
paid $50,000 for their release. I reluctantly gave up all thought of 
going to Marsivan. Dr. Kevorkian is there alone. In the time of 
the massacres his school was closed for a little while. The wife 
of the Governor was very sick. He was called in, and by the bless- 
ing of God healed her. The Governor said to him, "You are a 
good man; go on with your school; no one shall molest you." 
This promise has been kept. Last year, when he was in Constan- 
tinople, his papers were seized and he was detained there for 
months. The American Minister said to him, "You are a fool to 
go back. The Turks will surely kill you." He said, "Get my 
papers, and I will go back at once; they can kill me if they wish." 

Lew Wallace said: "I have often been asked, 'What of the 
missionaries of the East? Are they true, and do they serve their 
Master? ' And I have always been a swift witness to say, and I say 
it solemnly and emphatically, that if anywhere on the face of the 
earth there exists a band of devout Christian men and women, it is 




-=-.> 



1. Greek Patriarch. 



2. Armenian Catholicos. 3. Armenian Patriarch. 

EASTERN PATRIARCHS. 



MISSIONS IN TURKEY 341 

these. They live and die in their work; their work is of that kind 
which will be productive of the greatest good." This evidence is 
all the stronger when it is remembered that its author is a Turko- 
phile. Lord Shaftsbury spoke of the American missionaries as a 
happy combination of piety and common sense. And we know that 
this testimony is true. 



LVII. 
CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS. 

Constantinople is situated at the junction of the Bosporus and 
the Sea of Marmora. It consists of three divisions : Stambul and 
Pera-Galata in Europe, and Scutari in Asia. The European divi- 
sions are separated by an arm of the sea called the Golden Horn. 
It was so named because it resembled a stag's horn and because it 
supplied the people with an inexhaustible quantity of fish. The 
Golden Horn is about a thousand yards wide at its mouth and about 
four miles long. There is room in it for twelve hundred ships. 
Its waters are so deep that the largest war ships can moor close to 
the shore. More than six hundred years before Christ a colony of 
Greeks settled on what is now called Stambul. They called their 
city Byzantium. Constantine took this city, doubled its size, built 
a wall around it, made it the capital of the world, and called it 
Constantinople. He invited ancient and wealthy families from 
Rome to make it their home. Artists, and scholars, and merchants 
were drawn thither by the hope of gain. 

A glance at the map of the Roman Empire will show that Con- 
stantinople occupies an unrivaled position. It is in Europe, but 
within easy reach of Asia. It lies between the Black Sea and the 
Mediterranean. All ships going and coming paid her tribute. The 
provinces adjacent were populous and opulent.. Under Constan- 
tine and his successors the New Rome became the center and source 
of good government and the teacher of law and civilization. Gib- 
bon tells us that whatever was manufactured by the skill of Europe 
or Asia, the commerce of Egypt, and the gems and spices of 
farthest India, were brought to her for many ages. There was a 
prospect of security for life and property and increase in wealth. 

Constantinople has a great history. The part she has played 
entitles her to be regarded with feelings akin to those we cherish 
towards Jerusalem, Athens, and Rome. In the year 668 the Arabs 
made their first attack. They were beaten back, but they were not- 
dismayed. Mohammedanism never gave up the hope of ultimate 
conquest. One writer says that there is nothing in the history of 
the West to compare with the tenacity and continuity of the strug- 

342 



CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS 343 

gle in the East. In the West two or three great battles were 
fought. Charles Martel at Tours, and John Sobieski under the 
walls of Vienna, broke and beat back the armies of the Prophet of 
Arabia; but in the East there were ceaseless struggles for centu- 
ries. Constantinople was assailed by the Huns and other savages 
from the north of the Black Sea, and by the Arabs and Turks from 
the south. Army after army was annihilated, but others took their 
place, and the work had to be done over again. Constantinople 
spent her strength fighting the battle of Europe against Asia, of 
Christianity against Mohammedanism. And though she fell at last, 
time was gained in which the West grew strong enough to drive 
back the invader in 1683, and to say, "Here shall thy proud waves 
be stayed." Constantinople was the citadel against which the 
hitherto irresistible wave of Moslem invasion had beaten and had 
been broken. Had it not been for the perfidy and ambition of 
Venice it is very probable that this great city would never have 
fallen into the hands of the Turk. Venice prevailed on the leaders 
of the Fourth Crusade to turn aside from the mission in which they 
were engaged to conquer and punish their great commercial rival. 
The city was taken and sacked. It is a sad and shameful story. 
Never, we are told, was there a more barbarous sack of a city than 
that perpetrated by those soldiers of Christ, sworn to chastity, 
pledged before God not to shed innocent blood, and having on them 
the emblems of the Prince of Peace. The lust of the army spared 
neither the maiden nor the virgin dedicated to God. Violence and 
debauchery were everywhere. Pillage was unrestrained, lust 
unbridled. Soldiers acted as if they had been trained to commit 
every crime. They made the chief church in the city the scene of 
their profanity. A prostitute was seated in the Patriarchal chair, 
who danced and sang ribald songs for the amusement of the specta- 
tors. Because of this the Balkan Peninsula has been in the hands 
of barbarians for four centuries and a half, and all attempts to 
expel the Turks from Asia Minor have failed. 

One historian says: "Under the Emperors of the East, Constan- 
tinople preserved the treasures of ancient thought and learning, 
whilst the rest of Europe was plunged in barbarism, and became 
the greatest commercial ^\ty in the world. She sent missionaries 
who gave to the Sclavs their alphabets, and imparted to them some 
rudiments of civilization, and most of the Greek manuscripts we 
possess were at one time stored in her libraries. The capture by 
the Turks scattered Greek learning among the Latin and Teutonic 
races; and Greek manuscripts of the Bible conveyed to Western 



344 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Europe were one of the principal causes of the revival of learning." 
Out of the revival of learning came the German Reformation. In 
this city Justinian's legal reforms were made. The Code, the 
Institutes and Pandects were prepared by his agents. 

Mohammed II. took Constantinople in 1453. Since that time it 
has been the seat of Turkish Government, religious and secular. 
Saint Sophia has been changed into a mosque. This great church 
was built by Justinian. Columns were taken from the temple of 
Diana in Ephesus, from Aurelian's temple of the Sun, and from 
Egypt. When the building was completed, the Emperor said : 
"Glory to God, who hath thought me worthy to accomplish so 
great a work ! I have vanquished thee, O Solomon ! " A good 
judge pronounces it the fairest and noblest church in the world. 
The Greeks said to the Russian envoys: " What ! do you not know 
that the angels come down from heaven to mingle in our services? " 
This noble structure was defaced and defiled. Minarets were 
erected and other additions made to adapt it to Mohammedan wor- 
ship. But Saint Sophia was a church, and, please God, it shall be 
a church again. Mosques have been built in all parts of the city. 
They are by far the most conspicuous objects in the whole land- 
scape. There can be no doubt as to the dominant faith in Constan- 
tinople. The city of Constantine and Theodosius and Justinian 
and Chrysostom is the most thoroughly Mohammedan city in 
Europe or Asia, with the exception of Mecca. The Sultan is not 
only an absolute monarch, but Khaliff as well. The whole Moham- 
medan world, with the single exception of Persia, look to him as 
their spiritual guide. Not only so, but the Greek and Armenian 
Patriarchs and the chief Rabbi of the Jews live there. 

While I was in Constantinople, I could not but deplore that the 
feuds of Christian people enabled the Turk to enter Europe. For 
the Turk in Europe is as much out of place as a pig in a parlor. 
The Turks were converted to Islam while they were savages. 
Islam arrests development; consequently the Turks are where they 
were a thousand years ago. They have a thin veneer of civilization, 
and by courtesy they are called civilized, but they are not. In 
policy and in practice the Turk is a savage. He is not a builder; 
he is a destroyer. Asia Minor has been desolated. Ephesus is a 
ruin. Nicea is a village. Hundreds of towns and cities have dis- 
appeared; mines have been deserted. People do not raise more 
than enough to support life. The nerve of endeavor has been cut. 
All incentives to enterprise and economy have been done away. 
The countries under Turkish control are capable of supporting ten 




Mrs. Shishmanian. G. N. Shishmanian. Dr. Garabed Kevorkian. 

MISSIONARIES IN TURKEY. 



CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS 345 

times their present population. Mesopotamia is naturally one of 
the most fertile countries on the globe; Mesopotamia is occupied 
by nomads. Turkey ought to be as prosperous as the United States 
or England. There is there the natural basis of a populous and 
wealthy empire. But the people are indescribably poor. There 
are almost no roads. Agriculture is in a very backward state. 
Labor-saving machinery is all but unknown. The women spin and 
weave as their ancestors did three thousand years ago. 

I was told by several that the Turkish government is not a gov- 
ernment in any true sense of the word. It is a machine to tax and 
oppress and exterminate the people These are words of truth and 
soberness. The first duty of a government is to maintain peace, 
and to protect the lives and property of the people, and to foster 
industry. A great statesman has said: "What we wish is that 
where there has been despondency there shall be hope; where there 
has been mistrust there shall be confidence; where there has been 
alienation and hate there shall be woven the ties of a strong attach- 
ment between man and man." Nothing could be more foreign to 
the Turkish mind. There is no sense of security. The safeguards 
that Christian nations place around the individual, so that he can 
not be deprived of life, or liberty, or property, except for cause and 
by due process of law, are unknown in this empire. In former 
times the Armenians were the bankers of Constantinople. It is so 
no longer. They were accused, imprisoned, and their property 
confiscated. There are only a few left; soon there will be none. 
If the Turks covet the lands or homes of the subject races, nothing 
is easier than to get possession. The owner is arrested and tortured 
till he is willing to assign all his rights to his accuser. The streets 
swarm with police and soldiers. They parade the streets mounted 
and afoot. Spies are abroad in all sorts of disguises. Innocent 
men are sent to prison, or into exile, or to the gallows. They have 
no trial in which reliable witnesses are called to testify. The 
courts afford the accused no protection and no redress. Justice is 
bought and sold like any other commodity. If the Palace demands 
a man's condemnation he may as well abandon hope. I heard a 
court official tell of a man who was brought to trial. His inno- 
cence was demonstrated^ One judge refused to condemn him. 
Another was called in, and the man was sentenced to fifteen years 
of hard labor. The Palace demanded that he be condemned. Men 
are hung on the streets, not because they have done any wrong, but 
to warn others. 

Improvements are prohibited or discouraged. The telephone 



346 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and the electric light are forbidden. There is no local post in Con- 
stantinople. There is no such thing as rapid transit. These things 
might enable the people to concoct a revolution. An officer is in 
every newspaper office to see that no obnoxious words or senti- 
ments appear. He reads the articles before they are printed. No 
criticism of any officer or of any action is allowed. Whatever is 
done must be praised. If any additional proof was needed that the 
Turk is a savage, the recent massacres supply it. Every intelligent 
man in Turkey believes that the Sultan planned and superintended 
these atrocities. The people did not rise of their own accord and 
kill and ravish; they acted under orders. The Sultan is responsi- 
ble for the massacres and their attendant outrages. One proof is 
this: JVo foreigner was killed. Mobs do not discriminate so care- 
fully. Not less than eighty thousand Armenians perished, and 
thousands of others were subjected to unspeakable outrages. This 
massacre was a blunder as well as a crime. The Turk does not 
work; he is a leech on the body politic; he expects to fill an office 
or serve in the army. The people put to death were among the 
most industrious in the nation. They created the wealth and paid 
the taxes. They supported the Turks. To kill them was to kill 
the goose that laid the golden egg. What is the result ? The 
nation is on the verge of bankruptcy. No business is done. The 
custom house does not take in enough to pay the officials. Money 
has to be sent to the Asiatic provinces to support the Government. 
Police and soldiers and other officers are unpaid. The army is 
ready to mutiny. The interest on the public debt can not be paid. 
The Armenians have been decimated, bankers and traders -have 
been plundered — but to what purpose ? The savage has over- 
reached himself. There is nothing in history to be compared with 
the Armenian massacres. Herod, and Nero, and Domitian, and 
Jack the Ripper were mere tyros in butchery when their deeds are 
placed beside those of the present Sultan. The Turk would not 
allow the name of Armenia to appear on the maps or to occur in 
any school book or to be published in any paper. He would blot 
the name from the records and minds of men. Meanwhile the 
world was ringing with "Armenia" and "Armenian atrocities." 
And if the Sultan shall find any place in history it will be as the 
destroyer of the Armenians. 

Speaking to Mr. Shishmanian about those who had turned 
Mohammedans through fear, he said, "I wonder they do not all go 
over in a body. If a man says, ' I am a Mohammedan,' all persecu- 



CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TUBES 347 

tion ceases. He is protected, provided for, and promoted to 
honor." But tens of thousands preferred death to apostasy. 

We paid a visit to Robert College. Dr. Hamlin founded an 
academy; that grew into the present institution. Its property is 
worth $450,000. The pupils for the current year number two hun- 
dred and twenty-two. There are eight professors and fifteen other 
instructors. The pupils are from the Greeks, Armenians, Bulga- 
rians, Protestants, Maronites and Nestorians. Robert College is 
built on one of the most beautiful spots in the world, and one of the 
most interesting in Turkey. It overlooks the Bosporus. From its 
tower one can see the Black Sea and Constantinople and the Mar- 
mora. It stands near the fortress built* by the Turks before taking 
Constantinople. On the same place Darius crossed on his way to 
fight the Scythians. The Turks hate this school, and would be glad 
to buy and close it. They do all they can to hinder its progress. 
It took three years to get a permit to build a house for the Presi- 
dent. They have difficulty in getting books and maps through the 
customs. Turkish boys are taken away from the school. Robert 
College helped to make Bulgaria. It trained its Prime Minister 
and other leading men. It has profoundly influenced Turkish 
politics. One Professor spoke hopefully of the future. He has 
seen the Turkish dominion curtailed. Persia, Hungary, Georgia, 
Greece, Algeria, Tunis, Cyprus, Egypt, Thessaly, Roumania, Ser- 
via, Montenegro, Bulgaria, Eastern Rumelia, Bosnia and Herzego- 
vinia, and the strip of Eastern Anatolia containing Batoum and 
Kars: all these are either wholly or partly free from Turkish con- 
trol. Because God reigns and his purposes can not be defeated, 
the day of Turkey's dissolution can not be very far distant. The 
Turk entered Europe because Christians did not keep the unity of 
the Spirit; the Turk is in Europe because of international jeal- 
ousies. If these could be adjusted, he would leave Europe, bag 
, and baggage, never to return. May God hasten his departure ! 

Mr. Shishmanian took me to see the Great Church and the Hip- 
podrome. The Green and Blue factions used to contend there for 
the mastery. The seats have been used in building mosques. Half 
the site has been occupied by a mosque, the remainder is used as a 
parade ground. We went to see the old walls and the Seven 
Towers and the Golden Gate. Through this Belisarius and other 
successful generals marched in triumph. John took me to the top 
of one of the fire towers. The city has no fire engines or adequate 
fire department. There are two fire towers, and watchmen are 
there day and night. If a fire is seen, runners are sent to warn the 



348 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

people. Some firemen carry a machine on their shoulders and save 
the buildings of such as pay them for their services. Sometimes as 
many as two thousand buildings perish in a few hours. Mr. Shish- 
manian and John came with me to the ship. I had to show my 
passport to leave the country. A detective told the boatman that 
took us out to the ship that he took out two men without passports 
and he would hold him responsible for their return. I felt safer 
and breathed more freely after our ship got outside of Turkish 
waters. Turkey was the only country in my trip in which I felt any 
concern about safety. The first thing I did when I awoke in the 
morning was to feel whether my head was on or off. Then I looked 
around to see if the building had been burned during the night. 
Then I looked under the bed and searched the closets to>see if any 
detectives were concealed there. I left with the highest admiration 
of those who remain and carry on the Lord's work in the face of 
manifold discouragements and dangers. 



LVIII. 
FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO COPENHAGEN. 

We left Constantinople as the sun was setting. As our ship 
steamed out of the Golden Horn and entered the Sea of Marmora 
we got our last view of this illustrious and picturesque city. The 
next morning we passed out through the.Hellespont into the iEgean. 
During the day we saw the coast of Asia and Europe and many of 
the isles of Greece. We crossed Paul's course as he went from 
Troas to Samothrace, Neapolis and Philippi, bearing the Gospel to 
Europe. The second morning we dropped anchor in the Pirseus. 
Going ashore, we took a carriage and drove to Athens. We felt at 
once that we were in a different atmosphere. Greece is as unlike 
Turkey as the sweet air of heaven is unlike a dungeon. Before one 
is through the custom house he feels that he is in a civilized land 
again. 

After breakfast I went out to see the city. The center of inter- 
est to me was Mars' Hill. Standing where the High Court of 
Athens used to sit, I read Paul's address. Rejected at Philippi, he 
came to Thessalonica and Berea, and thence to Athens. In the 
synagogue he reasoned with the Jews and devout persons, and in 
the market-place every day with them that met him. Certain of 
the Epicurean and Stoic philosophers encountered him. They took 
him to the Areopagus, saying, " May we know what this new teach- 
ing is?" Athens then was the chief seat of Greek learning and 
civilization. She was, what Milton called her, " the eye of Greece, 
mother of arts and eloquence." No other city on the globe has 
produced so many great men. On all sides of Paul were master- 
pieces of genius. On the Acropolis were the Parthenon and the 
Temple of Victory. Over the most perfect building in the world 
stood the colossal statue of Minerva. Her shield and spear glitter- 
ing in the sun, were seen by the sailors far out at sea, and served to 
guide them into port. The Agora was the center of a glorious pub- 
lic life. Here orators, poets, statesmen, philosophers, and artists 
found incentives of their noblest enthusiasms. Here the populace 
came together to hear or tell of some new thing. The place was 
adorned with temples, altars and other sacred buildings. 

349 



350 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

It is very different now. Athens is a modern city; there is little 
of the city of Pericles and Paul left. The Apostle's soul was pro- 
voked when he saw the whole city given to idolatry. It was easier 
to find a god than a man. They worshiped all the gods they knew 
and erected an altar to the unknown God. It is not so at the present 
time. These temples and altars have for the most part disappeared. 
The Temple of Theseus has escaped the hand of the vandal. Some 
columns of the great temple of Jupiter still stand. The Parthenon 
has been a church and a mosque; it is now a ruin. The Turks used 
it as a powder magazine. The Venetians bombarded it and fired 
the magazine and destroyed the building. Lord Elgin carried away 
most of the treasures that remained and gave them to the British 
Museum. The theater of Dionysos, the cradle of dramatic art 
in Greece, the place where the masterpieces of iEschylus, Sopho- 
cles, Euripides, and Aristophanes first excited admiration and 
delight, are silent and tenantless. The Pnyx was the place where 
the political assemblies were held. Here Demosthenes and others 
almost as eloquent were heard. This hill is deserted by all save 
tourists. The Athens of to-day has street cars, electric light, sew- 
ers, a palace for the king, schools, a university and a museum. It 
is now a crime to carry away any antiquities. I ran a race through 
the museum. Hurried as my visit was, it was sufficient to give a 
conception of its treasures. A month could be profitably spent 
within its walls. Some public-spirited men are endeavoring to 
reproduce as much of the old life and spirit as possible. The 
Olympic games are revived. A magnificent amphitheater of white 
marble is being erected. A new day has dawned on Greece. 

One afternoon we drove out to Marathon. It was a long drive. 
The plain where the battle was fought is bounded by the sea and by 
a chain of high hills. Here ten thousand Greeks under Miltiades 
vanquished a Persian army twelve times as numerous. The Per- 
sians thought they were mad to attempt such an impossible enter- 
prise. While they were musing the Greeks swept down upon them 
with incredible velocity and power and swept them into the sea. A 
large mound was built over the fallen Athenians ; there is no other 
monument. As one stands on this plain he feels that " 'tis haunted, 
holy ground." At Thermopylae, Leonidas* and his three hundred 
held the whole Persian army in check till he was betrayed and his 
force annihilated. Soon after, at Salamis and Platea, the Persians 
were crushed and driven back from Greece forever. 

As I walked through the streets of Athens, and as I met the peo- 
ple, I could not but ask: "What of the future? Is the golden age 



FROM COXSTAXTIXOPLE TO COPEXRAGEN 351 

of this beautiful land in the past? Shall the race that gave to the 
world such men as Pericles, Themistocles, Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, 
Zeno, Phidias, Apelles, Praxiteles, not give many more of equal or 
greater ability? It should be so. In any case the past is secure. 
The whole world is thinking Greek thoughts and using Greek 
methods. The great names of Greece can never die. 

"Their spirits wrap the dusky mountain, 
Their memory sparkles o'er the fountain ; 
The meanest rill, the mightiest river, 
Goes murmuring with their fame forever." 

We crossed Greece from Athens to Patras by train. On the way 
we passed through many places; the most important of these is 
Corinth. In the New Testament time this city was noted for its 
wealth, its luxury and its profligacy. Aphrodite was its patron. 
In her temple a thousand priestesses ministered. In this city Paul 
came, after his apparent failure in Athens. Here he lived and 
worked with Aquila and Priscilla. Every Sabbath he reasoned in 
the synagogue and persuaded Jews and Greeks. When the Jews 
opposed and blasphemed he shook out his raiment and said, " I am 
clean; from henceforth I will go unto the Gentiles." He went 
into the house of Titus Justus. Crispus, the ruler of the syna- 
gogue, believed, and many Corinthians hearing, believed, and were 
baptized. The Lord appeared to him in a vision and said, " Be not 
afraid, but speak, and hold not thy peace; for I am with thee, and 
no man shall set on thee to harm thee ; for I have much people in 
this city." Here he spent a year and six months. Here he reaped 
"the largest and noblest harvest ever given to ministerial toil." 
Corinth now is a small place. Most of the houses I saw are of mud, 
and are occupied by poor people. I met no missionary and heard 
of none. In Athens the American Minister told me that the Chris- 
tians of the West evidently think the Greeks as good as them- 
selves. Perhaps this remark applies to Corinth as well. 

At Patras we boarded the ship which we left at Athens, and 
started towards Brindisi. Our course was through the Ionian and 
Adriatic Seas. We touched at Corfu and another small place. A 
ride of fourteen hours took us from Brindisi to Rome. The coun- 
try is level much of the way. The fields are covered with vines and 
grain. The houses are small and poor. The people are meanly 
clad. The grain is cut and threshed in the most primitive way. 
Women work in the fields with the men. There are no signs of 
enterprise or prosperity. Towards evening we reached and crossed 
the Apennines. There are villages on the tops or far up the sides. 



352 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

They were built there for defense. The peasants are grouped in 
villages, and seldom live on their farms. Long before reaching the 
city we saw the arches on which aqueducts rested for ages. Far 
against the sky we saw the mighty dome of St. Peter's. 

Most of the buildings in Rome are modern. At the same time 
there are more buildings and ruins belonging to antiquity than in 
any city I visited. I saw the ruins of the palace of Caligula, the 
wall built by Romulus, the house of Germanicus, the church which 
Michael Angelo made out of the baths of Diocletian, the Coliseum, 
the church of St. John Lateran, the church of the Chains, the 
Forum, the Baths of Caracalla, the Pantheon, St. Peter's, the 
Forum and Pillar of Trajan, the Catacombs, the Vatican Museum 
and Gallery, the Tiber, the Cloaca Maxima, and St. Paul's Outside 
the Walls. The Coliseum is the most impressive ruin in the 
world. It held one hundred thousand spectators. On the arena 
gladiators fought, and Christians fought with wild beasts. The 
sports of that time were bloody and barbarous. Tho walls are 
standing; the seats and fixtures are gone or are broken down. The 
church of St. John Lateran claims to be the mother of all the 
churches in the city and in the world. It is the Pope's church. He 
lived in the palace adjoining before removing to the Vatican. St. 
Peter's cost fifty millions, and is the largest church in existence. 
It is built on the site of Nero's circus. Here Christians were clad 
in coats of pitch and burned like candles, while the Emperor acted 
as a charioteer. In the Vatican I saw the Laocoon, the Apollo 
Belvidere, the torso Michael Angelo so much admired, and all the 
other great works in that marvelous collection. In the Sistine 
Chapel I saw the celebrated frescoes representing the Creation and 
the Judgment. In Raphael's room I saw the Transfiguration and 
his other famous paintings. The earliest pictures of Christ made 
him as ugly as possible. The prophet had said, "His visage was so 
marred more than any man." Raphael and the latest painters 
represent him as the perfection of beauty. St. Paul's Outside the 
Walls has portraits of all the Popes, beginning with Peter and com- 
ing down to Leo XIII. This building claims to have the body of 
Paul under its altar. The Pantheon is the most perfect of all tho 
buildings of antiquity. It is now a church. In it Raphael and 
Victor Immanuel are buried. 

I called on the Methodist missionaries in their fine building. 
They gave me an account of their work in Rome and Italy. 
They have twenty-seven churches, property worth $160,000, 
twenty-four ministers, 1,083 members, 583 scholars in their Sun- 




THE PARTHENON. 




THE COLISEUM. 



FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO COPENHAGEN 353 

day-schools, ten boys in their Theological Seminary, while their 
publishing house sends out a million pages a year. The Wal- 
denses, the Baptists, and several other bodies are operating in this 
field. In all, • about 250 missionaries, pastors and evangelists 
are at work. The Congregation for the Propagation of the Faith 
has its home here. Its aim is to propagate the religion of Rome 
in all. parts of the world. Its funds are adequate to the most 
expensive and magnificent undertakings. By it a vast number of 
missionaries are sent to the remotest corners of the globe, books of 
various kinds are published to facilitate the study of foreign and 
barbarous languages, houses are erected for the instruction and 
support of youths from pagan lands who are being prepared to 
return and work among their own people. It maintains charitable 
institutions for the relief of those who have suffered banishment or 
other calamities on account of their faith. Its revenues are vast, 
and its exploits incredible. Near by is the Seminary for the Propa- 
gation of the Faith. This institution is set apart for the education 
of those designed for the foreign field. Here they are brought up 
with the greatest care, in the knowledge of the languages and sci- 
ences that are necessary to prepare them for the most effective 
service. I called at the American Catholic College. The rector 
told me that sixty young men are there under instruction. The 
course is as high as that of the Catholic University in Washington. 
Rome is full of churches; the buildings are vast, and costly, and 
superb. At the same time they are of little value. The people 
are ignorant, and superstitious, and poor. It is with a sad heart 
one contemplates all this material grandeur and the condition of the 
bulk of the population. 

Leaving Rome I passed through Pisa, Milan, Zurich, Schaff- 
hausen, Heidelberg, and in due time came to Hamburg. In Switz- 
erland I saw the Alps and several 2akes, the St. Gothard Tunnel, 
and the Falls of the Rhine. North of the mountains the country 
appears more prosperous. Most of the workers in the field are 
women; the men are in the army keeping the peace. From Ham- 
burg I went to Kiel. There we took a ship and crossed an arm of 
the Baltic to Korsor. From Korsor I went to Copenhagen by rail. 

23 



LIX. 
IN SCANDINAVIA. 

On reaching Copenhagen I found O. C. Mikkelsen and Julius 
Cramer waiting for me at the station. They took me to the pleas- 
ant home of Dr. Hoick. I was surprised to learn that Mrs. Hoick 
is an American. She was born and reared and married near Pitts- 
burg. She has a good cook and a soft bed. The stranger within 
her gates feels thankful that he is alive to partake of such hospi- 
tality. Winsome little Maggie and John make the joy of the family 
complete. An American flag flies from a tall pole in front of the 
house. While I was their guest I slept under the shining folds of 
this banner of glory and of beauty. 

It was on Saturday evening that I arrived. The next day I 
spoke twice to the church. Dr. Hoick interpreted for me. The 
house was full. The people could not have been more cordial. 
They shook my hand till my arm was lame. The congregations 
were made up of intelligent and neatly dressed people. They are 
all poor; no member is worth as much as one thousand dollars. In 
view of their limited incomes they are very liberal. Persons earn- 
ing four crowns a week give half a crown to the church. The build- 
ing is the best Dissenting house in the city. It is well located and 
well arranged. It cost $22,000, and is worth more to-day than it 
cost. The work here began in 1876. Dr. Hoick, the pioneer, was 
born and educated in Jutland. He came to America and practiced 
medicine. After uniting with the Central Church in Cincinnati, he 
was asked to go to Denmark as a missionary. He gave up a growing 
and lucrative practice and went. He has built a good church in 
Copenhagen, and has done a fine work in Norway. He has had to 
face much bitter and persistent opposition. Denmark has a state 
church. Dissenters have some difficulties relating to marriage, 
funerals, and baptisms. The people regard rebaptism as the sin 
against the Holy Spirit. For this sin there is no forgiveness, either 
in the present or coming age. If children are not christened, they 
are heathen; in case they die, they are damned. His own mother 
said to Dr. Hoick: " If you had a child I would steal it and have it 
christened. I could not sleep till this was done." According to 

354 



IN SCANDINAVIA 355 

their views, people are regenerated in baptism, and are kept in a 
saved state by the sacraments. Dr. Hoick was taken before the 
courts for baptizing a minor. Some rough fellows threatened to 
throw him out of the window. The court decided in his favor. 
Some years ago his health began to fail. Knowing that he would 
not be able to preach much longer, he began to publish a paper for 
children. This venture has succeeded far beyond his most sanguine 
expectations. For ten years he has had no salary from the Society. 
Not only so, but he has given a thousand dollars a year to carry on 
the work. His presence in any church is a joy and an inspiration. 
He has preached in Denmark and in Norway, and wishes to enter 
Sweden. He regards Sweden as the most fruitful field of the three. 
With ten thousand dollars a year, he could take the whole of Scan- 
dinavia. This is less than the annual grant of the Methodist Epis- 
copal Society for thirty years. In addition to his other good works, 
Dr. Hoick supports a young man in college who is preparing to 
enter the ministry. 

O. C. Mikkelsen and Julius Cramer are at work in Copenhagen. 
They are directed aud assisted by Dr. Hoick as Timothy and Titus 
were by Paul. One preaches at the church, the other preaches at 
the mission. Besides preaching they conduct a little church paper. 
Mr. Mikkelsen is a Dane. He was led to Christ by his sister and 
baptized by his brother. In 1878 he removed to Copenhagen. Here 
he met Dr. Hoick and united with the Disciples. Two years later 
he came to America. He attended Oskaloosa College for two terms 
and the College of the Bible for two years, returned to Denmark in 
1885, and has aided in the mission ever since. He has a wife and 
three children. Mr. Cramer was born in Schleswig, went through 
the schools of Denmark, learned photography, and worked on a 
newspaper for three years. At the age of twenty-one he became a 
Christian and soon began to preach. In 1891 he came to America 
and attended Drake University. He was graduated from the 
English Bible Course, and returned to Copenhagen to preach the 
Gospel to his kindred and countrymen. They are both good and 
faithful servants. 

On Monday morning Dr. Hoick and I left to visit the churches 
in Norway. Before taking the train we drove around Copenhagen, 
and saw the principal buildings and places of general interest. We 
saw the royal palace, the museum of Thorwaldsen, many schools 
and churches, factories and stores, the docks and shipping. After 
an hour's ride on the train we crossed over on a boat to Sweden. 
On the way we saw the castle in which Hamlet lived, and near 



356 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

which he was buried. In Sweden we took a train for Freclericks- 
hald. All day we saw signs that the people are religious. The 
churches are numerous. Lutheranism is the predominant faith, 
but the Catholics, Methodists, Baptists and Presbyterians are also 
represented. The country most of the way is poor. We were in 
sight of the sea all the time. We spent a night at Gothenburg. 
This city has given its name to one method of dealing with the 
liquor traffic. In the evening we went out into the park to hear the 
music and to see the people. We saw much drinking, but the peo- 
ple were quiet and orderly. Men had their wives and children with 
them. They drank deliberately. We saw no drunkenness and no 
rowdyism. In England and Scotland, so travelers say, there is far 
more drunkenness than in Norway. The public houses are closed on 
Sunday. The topers get gloriously drunk on Saturday. They take 
enough to last them till Monday. The next afternoon we reached 
Frederickshald. That evening we had a service in the church. 
The building seats four hundred. Though they had short notice 
they had a fine audience. Dr. Hoick gave them an address on his 
own account and then interpreted my thoughts. Frederickshald 
has a population of ten thousand. The church has two hundred 
and twenty members. A. Johnson is the preacher. He spent some 
time in Drake University, and will be remembered by many in 
America. The next day I went to Christiana, the capital of Nor- 
way. Niels Devoid and Harald Wester went with me. A good 
beginning has been made in Christiana. The people propose to buy 
a building and repair it. They propose to rent the lower floors, and 
use the top story as a place of meeting. The service lasted two 
hours. No one was weary or in a hurry to get home. All seemed 
pleased. The "Amens " were frequent and fervent. The Norwe- 
gians are peerless listeners. I was told that if six men would speak 
in succession, each speaking an hour, the people would be as fresh 
at the end as at the beginning. Here an address an hour long is a 
weariness to the flesh; there an hour's address is only an appetizer. 
There are twenty of our churches in Norway. They are at the fol- 
lowing places: Frederickshald, Christiana, Frederickstad, Horten, 
Moss, Holmsbo, Sande, Berger, Svelvig Naersnaes, Eidsvold, Risor, 
Kragero, Gjeithus, Naesodden, Onso, Thorsnaes, Sarpsburg, Skibt- 
vedt, Aremark, Lillestrom, Vaaler, Holmestrand, Bogen. Ten of 
these churches have houses of worship. These houses are not large 
nor splendid, but they are sufficient for all purposes. The names 
of the preachers are as follows: Edvard Neilsen, Niels Devoid, 
Harald Wester, A. Johnson, Henrik Nevland. The people are lib- 




1. H. N. Wester. 2. Niels Devoid. 

4. K. Larsen. 3. Edw. Nilseu. 5. A. Johnson. 



WORKERS IN SCANDINAVIA. 



IN SCANDINAVIA 357 

eral. Most of them do not earn over four or five dollars a week. 
When they give a thousand crowns for Christian work it means con- 
siderable self-sacrifice. The membership is intelligent. They sup- 
port three papers. One is called The Bible Friend, one Things 
New and Old, and one The Sword and Trowel. 

The Norwegians are very much like the Scotch, as Norway and 
Scotland are very much alike. Both are mountainous. The lakes 
of the one correspond to the fiords of the other. The Norwegians 
are serious and deeply religious. The Danes live in a level country, 
and are a light-hearted people. Norway is a much more hopeful 
field than Denmark. The Danes are addicted to pleasure. With 
them Sunday is a day of recreation. The Gospel is making its way 
in Norway. Every Christian carries his New Testament in his 
pocket, and is ready to give a reason for his hope and faith. There 
is no opposition from the State church. At the first baptism thou- 
sands came out to see. They got boats, and climbed upon every 
"coigne of vantage." They sang hallelujahs and praised God. 
The Norwegians are a polite people. They salute men whether 
they are acquainted or not. Men take off their hats to each other 
on the street. I was told that in Germany men take off their hats 
to men, but not to women. 

The Norwegi'ans are an amphibious race now as their fathers 
were. They live as much on sea as on land. They catch cod, 
mackerel, salmon and flounders. They fish in winter as well as in 
summer. They are true descendants of the old Vikings. These 
men issued from their bays and creeks and pillaged every part of 
Europe. They were found as far east as the Black Sea and as far 
west as Labrador and Rhode Island. Charlemagne shortly before 
his death saw their strange boats and burst into passionate tears. 
His courtiers said, " These ships must be from the coast of Africa, 
or Jewish merchantmen, or British traders." The great king said, 
*' No; these are not the ships of commerce; I know by their light- 
ness of movement, they are the galleys of the Norsemen; and 
though I know such miserable pirates can do me no harm, I cannot 
help weeping when I think of the miseries they will inflict on my 
descendants and the lands they shall rule." They became the 
scourge of every land and the terror of every sea. 

After speaking in Christiana we took the train for Gothenburg 
and Copenhagen. Mrs. Hoick and the children, Mr. and Mrs. S. 
Von Leimback, Messrs. Mikkelsen and Cramer and several others 
met us at the train. We had supper in the station. Then I took 
the train for Hamburg and Paris and London. Before leaving, Dr. 



358 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

and Mrs. Hoick supplied me with such things as I needed on the 
journey, and some things that will serve me well for years to come. 
On our trip to Norway Dr. Hoick insisted on paying all bills. He 
did far more for me than I wished. He is a princely soul, and I 
had no choice but to submit. After such delightful comradeship, 
my ride that night was inexpressibly dreary, and made me realize 
anew that it is not good for man to be alone. 



LX. 
FROM COPENHAGEN TO LONDON. 

We left Copenhagen in the evening and reached Hamburg the 
next morning. This city on the Elbe is interesting to the student 
of missions, for it was from here that the Gospel was carried into 
Scandinavia. Charlemagne undertook to Christianize all the tribes 
about the Baltic, and failed. Louis the Pious founded a bishopric 
at Hamburg and secured the appointment of Anskar as bishop and 
apostolic vicar over all the North. Anskar built a cathedral and 
monastery; he bought Danish boys and trained them for the priest- 
hood, and sent many laborers into Sweden. When Louis died the 
Danish king apostatized, the Swedish missionaries were driven out, 
the Norse swept down on Hamburg and utterly destroyed the city 
and church and monastery and library. Anskar was reduced to the 
verge of starvation. Coveting the martyr's crown, he would not 
give up the task to which he felt called of God. In course of time 
Hamburg was rebuilt and elevated into a metropolitan see, and 
Anskar was made archbishop. He sent out new men into Sweden, 
and the work proceeded without further hindrance. Canute the 
Great and Olaf the Saint materially assisted the evangelization of 
Denmark. Norway was won to the faith by workers from Nor- 
mandy and England. In the tenth century Hamburg was an out- 
post of civilization and was surrounded by savage tribes. Hamburg 
is now a great seaport. From this city ships go to all parts of the 
world. 

At this point I took a train for Cologne. The principal object 
of interest in this city on the Rhine is the cathedral. This great 
building was seven hundred years in course of erection. As we had 
to spend three hours in Cologne, I walked about the cathedral and 
studied it from every side. I attended a vesper service. There 
were thousands present. ._ Incense filled the house. The priests and 
acolytes went through their parts with precision, but I went away as 
hungry as I came. Better five words in a known tongue than ten 
thousand in an unknown. The rumbling echoes kept me from 
understanding a word that was said or sung. The priests were as 
barbarians to me, and I was as a barbarian to them. It was in 

359 



360 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

Cologne that Coleridge said he "counted two and seventy stenches, 
all well denned, and several stinks." Since that time this city has 
been cleansed, and now is as free from bad odors as any other place 
in Europe. 

The next stop was made in Paris. As my stay was necessarily 
brief every hour was precious. Securing a guide, I went to the 
Eiffel Tower, the Luxembourg Palace, the Hotel des Invalides and 
Tomb of Napoleon, the Gardens of the Tuileries, the Pantheon, 
the Arch of Triumph, the Place of Concord, the Column Vendome, 
the Champs Elysees, the site of the Bastile, Notre Dame Cathedral, 
the Madeline Church, and the Louvre. Paris has in the Louvre the 
most extensive and valuable art collection on the Continent. There 
are works of such masters as Leonardo da Vinci, Correggio, 
Raphael, Holbein, Fra Bartolommeo, Titian, Murillo, Durer, Rem- 
brandt, Van Dyck, Rubens, and Teniers, not to mention many oth- 
ers almost equally renowned. The most famous piece of statuary 
is the Venus of Milo. Paris is the gayest and most beautiful city 
in the Old World. The French people have taste and genius, and 
they have spared neither money nor labor in making their capital 
attractive. 

While in Paris I called at the Bible House and at the headquar- 
ters of the McAll Mission. There are one hundred and thirty-six 
halls in which services are held. There are one hundred and eighty- 
two meetings a year in each hall. The Gospel is preached about 
twenty-two thousand times a year. In all the large cities of France 
there are agents of this mission at work. A map of the mission is 
a map of France. The Gospel has been carried into Corsica, Algiers 
and Tunis. Mr. McAll was past middle life when he went to Paris. 
The passions of the people, excited by the German Siege and the 
Commune, had not subsided. People regarded each other with dis- 
trust. The church was identified with an oppressive social order. 
Clericalism was the foe of the Republic. Priests had been mur- 
dered. Dr. McAll came from without. He belonged to no party. 
He came to preach a religion of freedom and reality. The French 
pastors assisted him in every way possible. Dr. McAll was pecu- 
liarly qualified for such a work. He had private means. He did 
not ask for anything for himself. He fancied that he was the hap- 
piest man on earth. His was a wonderful wealth of joy. He found 
that complete consecration of every energy to do what the Master 
requires is the secret of a quiet, unmingled and perennial joy of 
heart. He had that priceless gift, a sense of humor. The owner of 
a shop went to him and told him her terms. She had heard of the 







DR. nOLCK A XT) FAMILY, COPEXTIAGEX, DEXMARK. 



FROM COPENHAGEN TO LONDON 361 

meetings and inquired about them. Being told that they were not 
Jewish nor Catholic, she seemed puzzle'd. Then light dawned on 
her, and she told him that he was like herself, " a person of no 
religion whatever." As the staff of workers increased the munici- 
pal authorities reduced the police force. The government honored 
itself in making him a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. The 
illustrious founder of the mission is dead, but God carries on his 
own work. 

I left Paris for London by way of Rouen and Dieppe. I had 
heard so much about the Channel that I expected to be sick, but I 
was disappointed. I fell asleep before the boat started, and did not 
know that we were on the way till we reached England. I was glad 
to be among people who speak the English language. From there 
on I had no need of guides or interpreters. England is the chief 
missionary country on the globe. Her people give more money to 
evangelize the non-Christian nations than all other peoples com- 
bined. England is the great world power. Her colonies and ships 
are everywhere. Her colonial expansion has fostered the mission- 
ary spirit. The English people not only give liberally, but they go 
out to preach Christ to those who never heard the joyful sound. 
Many go at their own charges or are supported by their family. 
Some have gone from castle and palace and hall to take part in 
this the greatest of all enterprises. England is unquestionably the 
greatest country of the Old World. The average Englishman is a 
higher type of man than the average man of any other European 
nation. Well did her great bard speak of England as 

" This royal throne of kings, this sceptei*ed isle, 
This earth of majesty, this seat of Mars, 
This other Eden, demi-paradise ; 
This fortress built by nature for herself, 
Against infection, and the hand of war ; 
This happy breed of men, this little world, 
This precious stone set in a silver sea, 
This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England." 

Reaching London, I drove to the home of Dr. J. A. Brooks. The 
Doctor and Mrs. Brooks received me gladly. I was expected, and 
announced to preach at the Tabernacle. From this church mission- 
aries have gone out to China, India and Jamaica. The people were 
deeply interested in all that I had to say. There is a debt of ten 
thousand dollars on the property. The congregation is far from 
wealthy. They are doing well, but they cannot meet their expenses 
and carry on all departments of the work without aid. In time the 
debt will be paid. Then the Tabernacle will be self-supporting. 



362 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

This church has been served by Henry Varley, W. T. Moore and (jr. 
T. Walden. At the home of Dr. Brooks I met W. J. Hunnex, of 
China. He has spent seventeen years in that field and knows our 
men there. He took me to Hornsey Chapel. This is where 
William Durban preaches. The house was packed with eager and 
magnetic listeners. Mr. Durban was born in London and brought 
up in the Church of England. He studied in King's College, and 
was graduated from the London University. While reading Spur- 
geon's sermons his views of baptism were revolutionized. He 
taught in Hereford and in Spurgeon's College. Afterwards he 
preached on the Isle of Wight and in Chester. In Chester he met 
M. D. Todd and accepted the principles of the Disciples of Christ. 
After returning to London and serving as Secretary of the Monthly 
Tract Society, he was engaged by the Foreign Christian Missionary 
Society. He has preached at Tasso and at Hornsey. Meanwhile he 
has helped to edit the Christian Commonwealth. I am under many 
obligations to him and Mrs. Durban for hospitality and for many 
other kindnesses. On the way to the Commonwealth office he took 
me to see the grave of John Wesley. We went into the church and 
stood in Wesley's pulpit. Across the street is the Bunhill grave- 
yard. Here Susanna Wesley, the mother of Methodism, John Bun- 
yan, Daniel Defoe, and many other worthies, sleep. 

In the Commonwealth office we found Paul Moore, R. Gr. Porter 
and C. C. Hetherington. Paul Moore is the managing editor. He 
is a worthy son of his parents. Though possessed of unusual lit- 
erary ability, he rarely refers to himself. He puts his life into the 
paper, and allows that to speak for him. Dr. Porter has been help- 
ing in the office all summer. With him this has been a labor of 
love. Mr. Hetherington is the business manager of the Common- 
ivealth. He has been with the paper from the beginning, and is a 
trusted friend and adviser of the proprietors. The Commonwealth 
was founded sixteen years ago by W. T. Moore and Timothy Coop. 
It is one of the few really able papers published in London. It is 
read by Baptists, Episcopalians, Congregationalists, and by believ- 
ers of all names and creeds. It has exerted, and is exerting, a 
mighty influence. Many of the strongest and best men in England 
are among its contributors. 

Jesse Stockford is in charge of the work at Fulham. He was 
born among the Primitive Methodists. When he came to years of 
discretion he was associated with Henry Varley at the West London 
Tabernacle. He served as deacon and elder for twenty and as the 
pastor for two years. Then he was called to succeed Mr. Durban. 



FROM COPENHAGEN TO LONDON 363 

In four years, between seventy and eighty have been brought into 
the Church. In addition to those already mentioned, I met in Lon- 
don George Rapkin and L. H. Gow. Mr. Rapkin was born a 
Eoman Catholic. While yet a youth he united with the Baptists, 
and entered the Salvation Army. He traveled all over the British 
Islands and in seventeen other countries. He was on the staff. 
General Booth told him that if he was baptized he would have to 
get out. He fell in with G. T. Walden and was baptized, and left 
the army. Thirteen months ago he opened a work in Margate. 
For two seasons he preached every night on the beach. He baptized 
twenty-one and received six others. Mr. Gow labored in Jamaica 
for some time. After his return he took charge of the work in 
Southampton. This is the church that H. S. Earl organized. Mr. 
Gow reports good audiences and frequent additions. The church is 
preparing to erect a building for the Sunday-school. On a previous 
visit, I saw Parliament Buildings, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's, 
the British Museum, and Spurgeon's Tabernacle. 



LXI. 
FROM LONDON TO CINCINNATI. 

From London I went to Gloucester. E. H. Spring, the minister 
in charge, met me at the station. The people were excited. Glou- 
cester had an epidemic of smallpox. Vaccination was on trial. 
Out of fifty-two that had been vaccinated twice, fifty died. A new 
method was tried and success reported. The physicians were said 
to be determined to maintain their creed and practice at any cost. 
Mr. Spring was the foremost champion of the new treatment. He 
and the church did what they could to aid the poor. He was fined 
ten pounds for some technical violation of the law. The citizens 
felt that he was persecuted and paid the fine. Mr. Spring is a most 
energetic man. He has gotten himself and his work before the 
public as never before, and expects to reap a great harvest. We 
had a service in the Tabernacle, at which I spoke. I spent the 
evening with Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Mitchell. He is a telegraph 
operator and a preacher of the Gospel. 

T. H. Bates came down from Cheltenham to the meeting. He 
gave a good account of the work at that point. Mr. Bates is an 
Australian, and is known to many in America. He was educated in 
Lexington, being graduated in 1872, in the same class as C. P. 
Williamson and J. Z. Tyler. He has preached in Australia and 
New Zealand. When the panic struck Melbourne he walked four 
hundred miles to Coolgardie and spent four months there in the 
gold mines. Then he sailed for England. Some time after his 
arrival he took the work at Cheltenham. He reports frequent 
additions. The church needs a building of its own. 

Gloucester has quite a history. Here Robert Raikes opened the 
first Sunday-school in a small building still standing. Here the elo- 
quent George Whitfield was a bell-boy in a tavern. Dr. Jenner 
lived in this county and his statue is in the cathedral. Here Bishop 
Hooper was burned. John Long, a blind solicitor, and a remark- 
ably intelligent man, took me in his carriage to see the places of 
renown. He is a charming conversationalist. It is a delight to 
listen to his glowing descriptions of things that interest him. He is 
a genuine Disciple, and is acquainted with our history and work. 

364 




1. Jesse Stockford, London. 2. H. L. Gow, Southampton. 

3. J. A. Brooks, London. 4. T. H. Bates, Cheltenham. 5. E. M. Todd, Chester. 
7. George Rapkin, Margate. 6. H. M. Black, Liverpool. 

AN ENGLISH GROUP. 



FROM LONDON TO CINCINNATI 365 

He is collecting all the versions of the Bible that he can find. He 
has some rare and valuable works, and some curious ones on his 
shelves. In one version a familiar passage runs thus: "Peter said 
to them, repent with unfeigned contrition, and let every one of you 
be baptized into the profession that Jesus is the true Messiah. If 
you do this your former sins will be expunged, and you also will be 
favored with the gifts of the Holy Spirit. For this supernatural 
donation which you now see conferred upon us is also to extend to 
you and yours, and to all persons in the remotest parts of the world 
who shall comply with this divine invitation." What a mercy that 
the Bible was not always translated in this stilted style! Mr. Long 
gave me a copy of Erasmus' Greek New Testament, and an armful 
of other books to read on the voyage. 

From Gloucester I went by way of Birmingham, Wolverhamp- 
ton, Crewe and Liverpool to Southport. Here the sainted Timothy 
Coop lived for many years, and here his two sons, Joe and Frank, 
have their homes. Timothy Coop was the first man among the Dis- 
ciples of Christ to give on a large scale. His sons follow in his 
steps. They give as much time to the work of the church as to 
their own business. Joe is Treasurer of the English Committee. 
Since Geo. T. Walden left for Australia, Frank has been serving as 
Secretary. Their wives are as deeply interested and as active in 
church and missionary work as their husbands. Here I met W. T. 
Moore. He was rejoicing over the success of the Bible College in 
Columbia. J. H. Versey and E. M. Todd happened to be in South- 
port at that time. They came to attend a meeting of the Commit- 
tee. The church here has been enlarged and refurnished. Alfred 
Johnson is the preacher in charge. The evening I spoke the house 
was comfortably filled. 

After a day spent in Southport I ran down to Birkenhead. Eli 
Brearley and wife are in charge of the work here. Mr. Brearley 
has spent some time in India as a missionary. Since he came to 
Birkenhead the church has taken on new life. The audiences are 
large and conversions are frequent. We had a fine service in this 
church. Mrs. Brearley preaches, and preaches as well as her hus- 
band, and is most active and efficient in all departments of the 
work. Mr. Versey accompanied me to Birkenhead. He preaches 
in Lancaster and Ingleton. The work at these points is not with- 
out its difficulties and perplexities, but he works right on in the 
assurance that his labor is not in vain in the Lord. He spent some 
time in Jamaica, and told me some amusing incidents illustrating 



366 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

the way the humble people there get the Scriptures confused in 
their minds. One prayed for the pastor in charge, and added, " He 
is young in years, but old in sin, and desperately wicked." Another 
prayed for " our pastor, as he walks to and fro in the earth seeking 
whom he may devour." Another still referred " to Moses in the 
whale's belly, crying out, 'Almost thou persuadest me to be a 
Christian.' " 

My next appointment was with the church at Chester. This is 
one of the oldest cities in England, and one of the most pictur- 
esque. Here Julius Caesar had his camp before Christ was born. 
The many friends of Earl M. Todd will be glad to know that he is 
doing a good work here. He believes that wise, patient, and persist- 
ent effort will win the day. He is studious, prudent, and consecrated. 
He is a man of God, and his influence is telling on Chester. He is 
held in as high esteem as was his sainted father in his day. Mrs. M. 
D. Todd is editor of the Gleaner; she is a valuable helper in the 
work. Flora is the sunshine of the home, and gives promise of a 
life of great usefulness and nobleness. England is nothing if not 
conservative. Caste obtains here as in India. The lines are not so 
clearly drawn, but they are clear enough. The upper classes have 
their church connections, and will not listen to any new thing. Dis- 
sent is odious and vulgar. Even among the Dissenters there are 
strong prejudices. Earl Todd was not admitted to the Ministerial 
Fraternal. There is some talk now of admitting him. As long as 
there was any chance of his failing, he was heterodox; now that 
success is assured, he is becoming orthodox. A preacher must live 
in a certain way to be respected. If his wife should wash her own 
windows or scrub her own floors or answer the door-bell, she and 
her husband would exert no influence. Snobbery is still a power in 
the land, whatever may be said about the nobility of service. 

My last visit in England was made with H. M. Black. He was 
in charge of the church in Liverpool. He preached in Australia 
and in Kansas before taking this work in England. His father and 
brothers are all preachers. Mr. Black has spoken to the Y. M. C. 
A. on the missionary work of the Disciples of Christ. On the 
streets' he has spoken on the sin of sectism, the need of union, and 
kindred topics. He is a chemist, and goes back to his profession. 
He expects to preach nearly as much as ever. I met his brother 
Arthur. He is a successful dentist and an effective preacher. 

Having seen the brethren in England, I left Liverpool on one of 
the largest and fastest ships afloat. We had a quick and safe trip 



FROM LONDON TO CINCINNATI 367 

across the Atlantic. Had it not been for a dense fog the last night 
we would have broken all records. Among the passengers were two 
ferocious Americans of Celtic birth. A concert was given for the 
benefit of the sailors' orphans. One of the two paid six pence for 
a ticket. When he saw on the programme that the last number was 
" God Save the Queen," he went and demanded his six pence back. 
The other was a woman. When the audience rose to sing the 
national anthem, she kept her seat as if she had been glued to it. 
She would not rise in honor of any " furrin queen." Such oddities 
add to the enjoyment of an ocean voyage. They supply something 
to smile at. Anyone who causes two persons to laugh where only 
one laughed before is a public benefactor. The great ship is ele- 
gant in all its appointments, but eighty-six stewards sleep in one 
room. When they get up in the morning they sometimes faint. 
Some bleed at the lungs, and others suffer from blood poisoning. 
It is the duty of the Board of Trade to prevent this abuse. When 
the inspector comes on board he is invited to a royal feast, and 
supplied with champagne, and forgets the business on which he 
came. Once in a while one steward will sacrifice himself in the 
interest of the others. He is dismissed, and in a few days things go 
on as usual. 

One is not on American soil ten seconds before he feels that he 
is in a new world. The atmosphere is different: there is more 
ozone in it; the people are different: there is more life and push in 
them. New York is the greatest city I saw on my trip. London is 
larger, but London is an agglomeration of villages. London does 
not have an electric or cable car within her borders. The omnibus 
moves along at the rate of four or five miles an hour. No one in 
London is in a hurry. The waiters in the restaurants are delight- 
fully deliberate ; one course is eaten and digested before the next 
appears. You leave about as hungry as jo\i entered. In New York 
every one is alive and active ; steam and electricity are the principal 
moving causes. The train brought me to Cincinnati in twenty-four 
hours. On the platform were F. M. Rains, C. W. Paris, J. M. 
Hoffner, A. L. Chapman, S. M. Cooper, N. P. Eunyan, John and 
Edward Dorman, and the preachers in and about Cincinnati in a 
body. It was pleasant to see their friendly faces and to grasp their 
friendly hands. That evening I went to Mt. Healthy and slept in 
my own room. In my absence, the good woman who cared for me 
so many years entered into rest. She and several other members of 
the congregation which I served were not at the reception held in 



368 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

honor of my return. They have joined the choir invisible whose 
music is the gladness of the world. 

So ended my circuit of the globe. I was gone a year and two 
weeks, and traveled about forty thousand miles. In all that time I 
met no accident and missed no connection or appointment. The 
prayers of many thousands went up to God in my behalf, and he 
brought me back home in health and safety. 




J/Mtpem 



E. E. Faris. Dr. H. N. Biddle. 

MISSIONARIES TO AFRICA. 



LXII. 

SOME IMPKESSIONS— CONCLUSION. 

A tour of the world increases one's respect for the peoples of 
all lands. God has made of one blood every nation of men. The 
most backward people have all the elements possessed by the most 
advanced. Let them have the Gospel for a reasonable time, and we 
Will not be ashamed to call them brethren. 

"Children, we are all 
Of one great Father, in whatever clime 
His providence hath cast the seed of life ; 
All tongues, all colors." 

All nations need the Gospel. Many think of non-Christian peo- 
ple as objects of pity, and feel that they should be evangelized on 
that account. These peoples are not conscious of need; they, are 
not calling for help; it should be borne in mind that they need the 
Gospel apart from all considerations of poverty and misery. They 
would need it if they were clothed in purple and fine linen and 
fared sumptuously every day. The Brahman and Mandarin need 
the Gospel as much as the pariah and leper. The old faiths are 
not sufficient. God made the soul for himself, and it can find no 
rest till it rests in him. All peoples are capable of receiving the 
Gospel. I have seen Hawaiians, Japanese, Chinese, Malays, Tamils, 
Hindus, Singhalese, Eurasians and Arabs whose faces were made 
bright and beautiful by the truth and by the Spirit of God. 

The Gospel has taken a firm hold of the non-Christian nations. 
In the nature of the case it could hardly be otherwise. The work- 
ers have opened chapels, schools, hospitals and orphanages. Every 
day in the year the truth is pressed home to the hearts and con- 
sciences of the people. In times of famine and pestilence the 
afflicted are relieved. The Scriptures have been translated, and 
Christian literature has been scattered far and near. The great 
inventions that are the glory of our civilization have been intro- 
duced. If the continual dropping of water wears the rock, the 
perpetual and varied efforts of the missionaries must accomplish 
much. If all the foreigners were driven out the native Christians, 
would take up and carry on the work to completion. 

(24) ' 369 



370 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

The work of missions is now more widespread than most people 
know. It is not confined, as is sometimes said, to treaty ports and 
foreign concessions and well-known lines of travel. In all the 
Provinces of China, save one, there are missionaries at work. Not 
only so, they are in Mongolia and Manchuria, and are waiting for 
the doors of Thibet to open. They are in all parts of Japan. In 
India they are as far south as Ceylon and as far north as the Hima- 
layas. If one would visit every mission station he would have to 
visit every part of the globe. True, the fields are not fully occu- 
pied. Every mission is terribly undermanned. Now, as of old, the 
harvest is plenteous, and the laborers are few. But in every land 
and in most of the large centers of population there are some wit- 
nesses for Christ. It may be a single family in a great province or 
a solitary man or woman in a great city, but there is some one there 
preaching the GosjDel of salvation. 

The results are great, even greater than we have a right to 
expect. In view of the facts that the fields have been open for 
so short a time, that the churches have sent out such a small num- 
ber of workers and afforded them such a half-hearted support, and 
that the non-Christian nations are proverbially conceited and con- 
servative, the marvel is, not that there are so few converts, but that 
there are so many. A century ago India had no Christian com- 
munity, now the adherents number 600,000. Fifty years ago there 
were six Christians in all China, now the number is about 85,000. 
In 1872 the first church was organized in Japan; now the communi- 
cants exceed 40,000, and the churches number 364. Most of the 
converts walk worthily of that holy Name by which they have been 
called. Doubtless some are in the churches for the loaves and 
fishes. This need surprise no one. Of the majority it can be said 
that they have been born of God and know God. 

As a class the missionaries are possessed of ability, culture and 
consecration. The same men and women at home would fill high 
positions and would command much larger salaries than they now 
receive. They are diligent and earnest. If any lead easy-going 
lives, they are careful to conceal the fact. The tendency is to work 
beyond their strength. Heber was not the only one that died of 
overwork. With so many things to do and so small a staff, they 
could not avoid this even if they were so inclined. They live much 
as at home. One sees comfort, but no luxury. They need good 
food and comfortable homes and suitable clothing. They live in a 
hostile climate. The demands on their physical nature and on their 
sympathies are far greater than at home. By taking proper care of 



SOME IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION 371 

themselves they live longer and do more than if they stinted and 
starved themselves. It is claimed by some that missionaries get 
closer to the people when they eat the same food and dress in the 
same way and live in their houses. It may be that some Americans 
could do this and have good health and long life, but it is plain that 
most could not. .Missionaries must live in comfort if they are to do 
their best work. It is poor economy to send out a man and starve 
him, and so reduce his usefulness one-half. The poorest use a 
Society can make of a man is to allow him to die, when with a good 
home and wholesome food he might be in his glorious prime. If a 
living dog is better than a dead lion, much more is a living mis- 
sionary better than a dead one. 

One missionary said to me, ""We live very much as we do at 
home; our trials do not pertain to food and clothing." They are 
of another sort. What are some of these? They are exiles, and so 
-are deprived of the sunshine and strength they would find in the 
companionship of kindred spirits. I attended a farewell reception 
in Peking. The veteran in whose honor it was given said that it was 
a thousand days since his wife and daughter left for America. Iso- 
lation depresses the soul. Speaking to one man about the beauty 
of his surroundings he said: " There is no salubrity of climate, or 
beauty of scenery, or historical associations that can compensate in 
any degree for the loss of the intellectual and social and religious 
privileges one enjoys at home." He and others are where they are 
because God needs them there. The people are degraded. Lying 
and pilfering are almost universal. Cruelty abounds. Our workers 
found a living child in a coffin. Men die on the streets, and no one 
lays it to heart. China is unmistakably filthy. Stenches are omni- 
present. Before you are out of one you are into two more. One 
sees beggars and lepers everywhere. Thousands are brutalized so 
that the Gospel makes no impression upon them. The work is 
opposed by the priests, and the converts are persecuted. The per- 
plexities and annoyances are a thousandfold greater there than here. 
These all tell on the nerves and on the spirits. After a hard day's 
work it is right that the worker should have a comfortable chair 
and bed. Cut off as he is from friends at home, he should have the 
best books and periodicals. As a representative of Christendom, it 
is right that he should have a pleasant home. This is an object 
lesson to the natives. They see that the Gospel gives those who 
receive it something better than a mud hut paved with dirt and 
frescoed with cow dung. 

On the way out and in the hotels and in newspapers and maga- 



372 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

zines one can hear or read of the failure of missions ; that there are 
no genuine converts; and that the missionaries live in ease and 
affluence and accomplish nothing. Travelers visit the clubs and 
take up the gossip current in these places. If they were to visit the 
missions and see the work that is being done and know the spirit 
and service of the workers, they would tell a very different tale. 
The men that compose the clubs, for the most part, are men of 
unclean lives. The Gospel condemns them, and they resent its 
condemnation and revile its advocates. Men live in Shanghai and 
Tokio and Calcutta all their lives and know nothing at all about 
what the Lord is doing through his servants in these cities. The 
truth is, the lives of these men constitute the most serious obstacle 
to the spread and triumph of the Gospel. They drink, they curse, 
they have wives on the European plan, they abuse the natives and 
treat them like dogs, that they may know their place. A steamboat 
was going up the Yangtsze. A junk loaded with brick was crossing 
the river, and came in front of the steamboat. The pilot said to the 
captain, " Shall we turn aside?" He said, "No." The junk was- 
cut in twain, and all on board perished. No effort was made to 
save the crew. Opium was forced on the Chinese. When the 
Emperor protested, he was urged to tax it and make it a source of 
revenue. He said he would not use as a means of revenue t that 
which brought suffering and misery upon his people. There are 
notable exceptions. I met a missionary in Singapore: he left the 
Royal Engineers to engage in the work. I met another who had 
been a surgeon in the Army. Some of the most devout men in the 
East belong to the Military or Civil Service. The opposition of the 
others is complimentary to the missionaries. Whatever may be said 
to the contrary, the Gospel is making progress. There are converts, 
and many of them are of a high standard. It should be borne in 
mind that spiritual results, like spiritual truths, are spiritually dis- 
cerned. To the natural man they are foolishness, and he cannot 
know them. The missionaries are living lives of usefulness and 
nobleness and self-sacrifice. They represent the heroic element in 
modern Christianity. Praise God, from whom all blessings flow, 
for their lives and labors ! One could sail over the earth in a bal- 
loon and tell at once whether he was over a Christian or a non- 
Christian land by the sights and sounds and smells. He could tell 
in the same way whether he was over a Protestant or a Roman Cath- 
olic country. And one could go through China or India or Japan 
and pick out the Christians by their bright and joyous faces. 

The evangelization of the world is a tremendous enterprise. It 



SOME IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION 373 

is the most colossal task ever undertaken by men. More workers 
should be sent out and thoroughly furnished for the work. All the 
energies of the church should be devoted to it. Hundreds should 
go at their own charges. Nearly one-half the workers connected 
with the China Inland Mission are self-supporting. Some should 
undertake to support one or more workers. The task is great, but 
not- impossible. God has sworn by himself that the whole earth 
shall be filled with his glory. Every plant which he has not planted 
shall be rooted up. All the signs of the times point to the fulfill- 
ment of these promises. The Gospel is running and being glorified. 
People are forsaking dumb idols and evil practices and are serving 
the living God and are walking in his ways. Temples and shrines 
and altars are being deserted. The number of the saved is being 
increased daily. Those that have been longest on the field and 
know most of the power and methods of the forces arrayed against 
the faith of Christ, are most confident of the final victory. All that 
they have seen strengthens their confidence. They have no thought 
of leaving the field. They praise God that to them was this grace 
given, that they are permitted to preach among the nations the 
unsearchable riches of Christ. The non-Christian faiths feel that 
they are doomed. On every field they are making a last desperate 
stand. The effort is in vain; the Gospel will triumph and fill the 
earth as the waters fill the sea. 

Missions are drawing Christian people closer together. In 
Shanghai, Nankin, Peking and Tientsin the workers have union 
services every week. They feel the need of combining that they 
may present a solid front to the foe. They are closer to one another 
than at home, for their preaching is more scriptural and more sim- 
ple. Baptism is seen in its true relations on the mission field. 
People may believe anything and do anything, provided they are 
not baptized. That one act severs every tie that binds one to the 
old faith. It was so in the early church. 

One rejoices to see that the English language is so widely spread. 
In Japan English is taught in the public schools. The youth of 
China and India are anxious to speak and read English. This is a 
hopeful sign. The English language is full of great ideas respect- 
ing the worth of man as man, the dignity of woman, the sanctity of 
marriage, of liberty and progress. Wherever the English language 
goes these ideas go and bear fruit. One rejoices, too, to find the 
English power so widespread. This is no accident. Why is it that 
Portugal, or Spain, or France, or Holland, is not the world-power? 
Because English civilization is of a higher type, and because it is 



374 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

God's purpose that the fittest should survive. These other nations 
were in the field first, but they were all driven out. Wherever 
England goes there the Bible goes. There, too, you find roads and 
bridges and free schools and just laws and equal advantages for all. 
There you find peace and prosperity. 

The Gospel gives woman her rightful place in society. Heathen- 
ism degrades her with an infinite degradation. This is character- 
istic of all the non-Christian faiths. In all pagan and Moslem lands 
polygamy and concubinage obtain. In India a woman is taught 
that her husband, however worthless, must be worshiped as a god. 
Her chief business is to minister to his comfort. The Japanese 
think ignorant woman more easily managed. A Chinese poet ex- 
pressed the feeling of the nation — 

"The serpent's mouth in the green bamboo, 
The yellow hornet's caudal dart, 
Little the injury they can do ; 
More venomous far is a woman's heart." 

One thinks more of America after seeing other nations. A 
friend said, "If you would foster your patriotism, make a trip 
abroad." The average American is better fed and clothed and 
housed and taught than the average man of any other nation. I 
am persuaded that the typical American is a broader and a better 
man than the typical man of any other country. This is ImrnanuePs 
land in a very peculiar sense. Let it not be forgotten that where 
much has been given, there much shall be required. On a foreign 
tour one sees America from the standpoint of foreigners. This 
keeps him from being exalted above measure. One Oriental spent 
some years within our borders and wrote his experience. His idea 
of Christian America was lofty, religious, and Puritanic. He 
dreamed of its templed hills, and rocks that rang with hymns and 
praises. Hebraisms, he thought, to be the prevailing speech of the 
people, and cherub and cherubim, hallelujahs and amens, the com- 
mon language of the streets. He heard some Hebraisms, but they 
were more suggestive of the imprecatory Psalms than of the Beati- 
tudes. His pocket was picked and his umbrella stolen. He saw 
burglar-proof safes and cemented cellars, stone-cut vaults, watched 
by bulldogs and battalions of police. Every housewife had a bun- 
dle of keys at her girdle. At home the houses are open; things 
dropped in the street are safe. He thought Christendom a beastly 
land! We have the worst and the best. Christendom alone pro- 
duces such people as John Howard, Lord Shaftesbury, Abraham 
Lincoln, Chinese Gordon, David Livingstone, Florence Nightingale, 



SOME IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION 375 

Grace Darling, Frances E. Willard, and Clara Barton. Christen- 
dom needs to be Christianized. 

One word of testimony I must bear. On board ship and in 
hotels men urged me not to drink water, but to drink champagne, 
wine, beer, or brandy and soda. I did not like to abandon my prin- 
ciples and determined I would not. I drank water everywhere, and 
refused to taste brandy and soda, beer, wine, or champagne, and 
came home in perfect health. Water is the most wholesome of 
beverages. The idea that in Europe or Asia and Africa we must 
drink some alcoholic beverage is a delusion and a snare. One 
Scotchman said to another: "Whiskey is a bad thing." His friend 
cautiously replied: "Yes, bad whiskeyis." It's all bad, and always 
bad. 

It would be a good thing if some representatives were sent out 
every two or three years. They would do the workers good. They 
would cheer and bless the native helpers and converts. They would 
widen their own vision and stimulate the work at home. Many are 
able to go at their own charges. Yokohama is only two weeks from 
San Francisco. Bombay is only four weeks from New York. In a 
month or two one could visit all the stations. This would not cost 
any more than a summer in Europe, if so much. Europe is modern. 
One can see as good cities at home as there. In Asia one sees 
different races, religions, civilizations. He is in a different world. 
J. W. Foster says: " I advise a larger visitation of the missions and 
closer personal supervision. There should be one Secretary on the 
field every year." Dr. Blodgett, a veteran missionary, indorses this 
view. 

I was sent out partly to rest and partly to see the work. I saw 
the work; I trust I shall get the rest in the sweet by and by. Sev- 
eral men talked of going with me, but all decided to remain at 
home. The decision was a wise one for themselves. Seeing mis- 
sions is exhaustive work. Editing a paper, managing a loan agency, 
conducting a large medical practice, presiding over a college : all 
these are a picnic in comparison. If the men who talked of going 
had gone the visit would have been immeasurably more dignified 
and impressive. The people would have come out and worshiped 
us. They would have £aid: " The gods are come down in the like- 
ness of men." But when they saw one foreign devil wearing a 
Chinese petticoat they smiled and went back to their business. 

To those who made this trip possible and actual, and followed 
me all the way, I extend my heartfelt thanks. First and foremost 
among these is my associate, F. M. Kains. In my absence he did 



376 A CIRCUIT OF THE GLOBE 

double duty. The clerks in the office caught his spirit and went 
without their vacation that the work might not suffer. He and they 
had the supreme joy of being able to report a year of unprecedented 
prosperity. Above all are thanks and praise due to Him who put it 
into their hearts and power to do this, and who watched over me 
every step of the way and brought me back in peace and safety. 
"Blessed be the Lord God, the God of Israel, who only doeth 
wondrous things. And blessed be his glorious name for ever: and 
let the whole earth be filled with his glory." 



INDEX. 



Abbott, Pastor, 286. 

Adams, Dr., 150. 

Adams, Mr. and Mrs. M. D. ; 217. 

Adelaide, 266. 

Aden, 295. 

Adriatic, the, 351. 

^Egean, the, 349. 

Agora, the, 349. 

Agra, 238. 

Agra College, 240. 

Akbar, 204, 238. 

Akita, 69, 90, 91. 

Albatross, the, 264. 

Albrecht, Prof., 115. 

Alexandria, 301, 304, 305, 

Allen, Dr. Y. J., 161. 

All men brothers, 369. 

America, 17. 

America, evils in, 374. 

America: a new world, 367. 

America, talk on, 294. 

American Bible Society, 23. 

American Christian Missionary Society, 10. 

American Mission, 309. 

American Board in Turkey, 339. 

American Catholic College, 353. 

American preachers in Australia, 286. 

Americans, the, 319. 

Americans discounted, 248. 

Amoy, 162. 

Ancestor worship, 190 

Anecdote of Dr. Beebe, 142. 

Anglo-Chinese College, 128. 

Anskar, 359. 

Antioch, 329. 

Archibald, John, 151. 

Arcot Mission, the, 249. 

Archipelago, the, 195. 

Armenians, merchants and bankers, 345; 

living in dread, 338 ; 'decimated, 346 ; in 

exile, 337; outrages, 338, 339; Sultan 

responsible, 346. 
Arnold, T. J., 172, 176. 
Ashmore, Dr., 119. 
Asia Minor desolated, 344. 
Athens, 349. 
Athens, modern, 350. 
Australians in America, 287; Australian 

churches, 288; members all pay, 288; 

trains, 285. 
Azbill, W. K., 67, 76, 93, 94. 



Baby Guy, 63, 64. 

Backsheesh, 324. 

Bad government, 147. 

Ballarat, 284. 

Baptisms in Shanghai, 127. 

Baptist work among Telugus, 252. 

Barclay, Dr., 120, 316. 

Bardezag, 334. 

Bardsley, John, 271. 

Bates, T. H, 364. 

Bathing in Ganges, 230. 

Bay of Tokyo, 50. 

Bedouins, 301. 

Beebe, Dr. and Mrs., 141, 152. 

Beirut, 309. 

Believers in Peking, 157. 

Benares, 228. 

Ben-Oliel, Mr., 317. 

Bernard sisters, 244. 

" Beside the Bonnie Brier Bush," 47. 

Bentley, W. P., 127, 132, 176, 320. 

Bethany, 320. 

Bethlehem, 322. 

Bible, the, 47 ; among soldiers and sailors, 
121; best of missionaries, 216; classes, 
86; distribution, -87; houses, 113; in 
Japan, 96, 113; Readers' Union, 113; 
societies, 121. 

Bilaspur, 217. 

Bina, 222. 

Bingham, Hiram, 31, 39. 

Birkenhead, 365. 

Bishop, Mrs., 121. 

Bitter Lakes, 298. 

Black, H. M., 366. 

Bliss, Dr., 320. 

Black Hole, the, 208. 

Boating population, 164. 

Boardman, Mrs., 198. 

Bombay, 241. 

Boone, Dr., 129. 

Booth, General, 294. 

Borneo, 41. 

Boston and San Francisco, 14. 

Botany Bay, 271. 

Boyd, Miss, 217. 

Breakfast in Melbourne, 270 

Brearley, Eli, 365. 

Brigands, 340. 

Brindisi, 351. 

British and Foreign Bible Society, 308. 



378 



INDEX 



British rule, 193, 239. 
Brooks, Dr., 361. 
Buddha, the, 66, 112, 228. 
Buddhism, 89. 
Buddhism in China, 166. 
Buddhist orphanage, a, 114. 
Buildings in Bilaspur, 219. 
Buildings in Paris, 360. 
Burmese, 197. 

Butehart, Dr., 112, 131, 172, 174. 
Bungalows, 259. 
Burford, Mr., 267, 268. 
Burgess, Miss, 223. 
Burning the dead, 230. 

Cairo, 300. 

Calcutta, 200, 207. 

Cambridge Brotherhood, 237. 

Canton, 163. 

Carey, William, 208, 214, 215. 

Carrie Loos Williams' Memorial, 173. 

Cashmere Gate, 237. 

Caste, 260. 

Caste in England, 366. 

Catholics in South Seas, 38. 

Cawnpore, 232. 

Ceylon, 41, 262; British in, 263; Dutch 
and Portuguese. 262, 263 ; missions in, 
263. 

Chalmers, Dr., 163. 

Chandler, Mr., 247. 

Charity schools, 79, 85. 

Cheltenham, 280. 

Chester, 366. 

Chewing gum, 269. 

Chicago, 14. 

Children, 292. 

Children, desire for, 219. 

China, 186; age of, 187; Chinese, 19; 
age revered, 182; begging, 182; bind- 
ing feet, 179; books in, 184; Buddhism 
in, 190; Catholics, 165; climate of, 151; 
conceit, 169 ; conservatism, 191 ; Chris- 
tianity making progress, 171; Confu- 
cianism, 166; converts, 169; converts 
lose, 170; dirt, 183; disputes among 
Catholics, 167; dress hair peculiarly, 
179; dress, 180; economical, 189; given 
to lying, 191; fertilizers, 186; finger- 
nails, 179, 180; government, 187; hos- 
pitals in China, 170 ; ignorance of peo- 
ple, 139, 192; China Inland Mission, 
124; intellect located in stomach, 183; 
Jesuits in, 165; Chinese know all things, 
184; lay up merits, 181; literature pure, 
191; make no progress, 192; maps, 139; 
moves, 148; no national postal system, 
192 ; opposedto missions, 169 ; polygamy, 
191; poor, 134; prefer one another, 182 ; 
prize learning, 187 ; products, 186 ; peo- 
ple proud, 185; regard printed paper, 
180 ; religious, 189 ; rivers in, 186 ; peo- 
ple starve, 192; suicide in, 181; Chi- 



nese a superior race, 189 ; superstitions,, 
189; Taoism in, 183; women in, 171;, 
wronged, 171. 

Chinese learning, 188. 

Chinese mission school, 277. 

Cholera, 60. 

Christ as a pig, 151, 

Christian College, 245. 

Christian Commonwealth, 362. 

Christian-Evangelist, 11. 

Christian Standard, 10. 

Christianity in Japan, 61, 96. 

Chu Cheo, 143, 145, 173. 

Church Missionary Society, 316. 

Church, first in Japan, 97. 

Churches of Christ, 100. 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 315, 323. 

Churches in Norway, 356. 

Churches in South Australia, 269. 

Cincinnati, 9, 367. 

City of Peking, 12, 17, 18. 

Clay, B. F., 12. 

Cleveland, Captain, 30. 

Clive, 205. 

Clough, Dr., 253. 

Coan, Titus, 25, 26. 

Coleridge, quoted, 264. 

Coliseum, 352. 

Collingwood, 281. 

Cologne, 359. 

Competitive Examinations, 187, 188. 

Conference in Hurda, 226. 

Conference in Melbourne, 289. 

Conference in Nankin, 152. 

Conference Sermon, 278. 

Conference in Sydney, 272. 

Confucius, 84, 147. 154, 189. 

Confucianism, 89. 

Congregation of the Propagation of the 
Faith, 353. 

Constantinople, 342 ; has a great history, 
342, 343 ; improvements forbidden, 346 - T 
sacked, 343 ; taken by the Turks, 344. 

Consular Courts, 63. 

Cook, Captain, 30. 

Coop, Messrs., 365. 

Copenhagen, 354. 

Copts, the, 300. 

Corinth, 351. 

Course of Study in Girls' Home, 76. 

Cow-protector, 226/ 

Cow temple, 229. 

Curious things in China, 179. 

Curious things in Japan, 107. 

Cyprus, 329. ' 

Damoh, 220. 

Dana, R. H., 28. 

Danes, the, 213, 357. 

Dardanelles, the, 331. 

Davies, Mr. and Mrs., 270, 283. 

Dawson, Sir William, 307. 

Dead Sea, the, 321. 



INDEX 



37£ 



Death at Sea, 296. 

Delhi, 236; and the mutiny, 237; taken, 

237. 
Delta, the, 302. 
Denver, 11, 12. 

Departments of work in India, 217. 
Dialects in China, 127. 
Disciples of Christ in Australasia, 290 ; in 

India, 217 ; in Japan, 90 ; in New South 

Wales, 273. 
Discouragements in Turkey, 337. 
Doneaster, 280. 
Doshisha, the, 115, 116, 117. 
Drinking away from home, 375. 
Drinking on board ship, 45. 
Duff, Dr., 208. 
Dunn, H. G., 277. 
Durand, Dr., 225. , 
Durban, W., 362. 
Dutch Missionary Societies, 196. 
Dyer, Mr., 241. 

E^ar Monument, the, 115. 

East India Company, 205. 

Edkins, Dr., 126. 

Egypt, 306, 307. 

Egypt, population of, 306, 307. 

Emperor of China favorable to the Gospel, 
166. 

Empress of China, 119. 

Empress of Japan, 162. 

England, 361 ; the great missionary nation, 
361; English in Japan, 97; English 
roads, 163 ; language widespread, 373. 

Ephesus, 344. 

Errett, Isaac, 10. 

Eschol; 25. 

Eta, 72. 

"Evangelist," not "pastor," 288. 

Evangelization of the world a great un- 
dertaking, 373. 

Eurasians, 199. 

Ewers, D. A., 265, 275, 280. 

Exodus, the, 298. 

Faber, 49. 

Faber, Dr. E., 125. 

"Failure of Missions," 372. 

Fair Sex, the, 310. 

Famine, 222. 

Farewell, 285. 

Faris, E. E., 10. 

Farrar, Miss, 227. 

Ferguson, Mr., 153. 

Ferntree Gully, 281. 

Fishing with cormorants, 134.^ 

Fiji, 40. 

Filth in Nankin, 137. 

Forbidden City, the, 157. 

Foochow, 162. 

Food of Chinese, 20. 

Food on ship, 20. 

Foreign concessions, 63. 

Foreign devils, 134. 



Foreign Missions in Melbourne, 277. 

Formosa, 41, 120, 163. 

Forscutt, C. F., 271. 

Fort, the, 236. 

Foulk, Lieut., 117. 

Franklin, Miss Josepha, 221. 

Franklin, Miss Stella, 222. 

Frederickshald, 356. 

French in India, 205. 

Friendly Islands, 41. 

Frost, Miss, 227. 

Fujiyama, 113. 

Fulham, 362. 

Fumigating passengers, 310. 

Gambling, 19, 134. 

Ganesh, 229. 

Garvin, T. D., 29, 36. 

Garst, Mr. and Mrs., 74, 90, 112. 

Germans in the East, 77, 193. 

Gethsemane, 320. 

Gibson, T. R., 312, 331. 

Gilbert Islands, 26, 39. 

Giol Dagh, 333. 

Girls' Home, 75. 

Girls' School, 118. 

Gloucester, 364. 

Gobat, Bishop, 316. 

God of War, 112. 

Goddess of Mercy, 66, 112. 

Gold in Victoria, 284. 

Golden Gate, 12, 13. 

Golden Temple, 229. 

Golden Horn, 342. 

Gole, Mr. and Mrs., 273. 

Golgotha, 320. - 

Gordon' s Calvary, 317. 

Gordon, Dr., 87, 117. 

Gordon, E. M., 217, 220. 

Gore, Mr. and Mrs., 265, 266, 267, 286. 

Goshen, 299. 

Gospel, the, and progress, 162. 

Gospel, the, taking hold of the nations,, 

369. 
Gospel, the, in India, 216. 
Gospel Village, the, 154. 
Gossner Mission, the, 249. 
Gothenburg, 356. 
Gow, L. H., 363. 
Graves, Dr., 164. 
Graves everywhere in China, 131. 
Graybiel, Miss, 217, 227. 
Great Australian Bight, 295. 
Great Mosque, 236. 
Great Wall, 158. 
Greece, 349, 350. 
Greek Church, 99. 
Green, Dr., 77, 111. 
Green, M. W., 265. 
Griffis, Dr., 86. 
Grote St. Church, 266. 
Gulick family, the, 118. 
Guy, Mr. and Mrs., 50, 56, 63, 93. 



380 



INDEX 



Hamburg, 359. 

Hanehow, 162. 

Hankow, 148. 

Hanlin Academy, 157. 

Hanobuehi, 67. 

Hardy, Alpheus, 116. 

Harrison, Miss, 91. 

Haveloek, 233, 234. 

Hawaii: Bibles in Museum, 34; Bishop 
Museum, 32 ; building a house, 32 ; com- 
merce of, 35; Constitution of, 34; Evan- 
gelical Association, 36; evangelization 
of, 23; Ex-Queen, 34; flowers, 43; 
Japanese in, 43; Jubilee motto, 32; 
lepers, 35; legislature, 34; missiona- 
ries, 30, 31 ; people dying out, 27, 35 ; 
population of, 35; President Dole, 34; 
triumphs of the Gospel, 26, 28; vice in, 
27. 

Hawk, Jeu, 18. 

Hearnden, Mr. and Mrs., 144, 172. 

Heber, 209, 246. 

Hebron, 321. 

Hepburn, Dr., 97. 

Hideyoshi, 102. 

Hill, David, 149. 

Hilo, 25, 26. 

Himalaya, the, 263. 

Himalayas, the 201. 

Hindmarsh, 267. 

Hippodrome, 347. 

Hoick, Dr. and Mrs., 354, 357. 

Hong Kong, 41, 163. 

Honjo, 69, 92. 

Honolulu, 12, 22; cosmopolitan, 36; Dis- 
ciples of Christ in, 36 ; in 1820 and 1896, 
37. 

Hoogly, the, 207. 

Hopper, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 43. 

Hornsey, 362. 

Horses and oxen in Japan, 51. 

Hospital, the Memorial, 138. 

Hospital in Hong Kong, 163. 

Hospital in Singapore, 195. 

Hostetter, Miss, 79, 94. 

Hunt, John, 40. 

Hunt, Mabel, 146. 

Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 138, 144, 172, 175, 
177. 

Humayun, 204, 237. 

Hurda, 217, 224. 

Hyacinth, the, 36. 

Hykes, Dr., 127. 

Idols, 72. 

Idolatry overthrown, 24. 

Imperial Museum, 79. 

India, 201; and Christianity, 212; and 

commerce, 204; extent of, 201; is poor, 

259 ; outline of, 201 ; aborigines of, 202 ; 

Alexander in, 203; Aryans in, 202; 

British India Proper, 205; buildings, 



255; Catholics in, 212; children wear 
little clothing, 255; drinking in, 211; 
Feudatory States, 205 ; hours of eating, 
258 ; idols in, 258 ; languages, 202 ; Max 
Miiller on, 206; mechanics sit, 256; 
Methodist Missions in, 250 ; Mohamme- 
dans in, 203; Nestorians in, 212; Pan- 
tsenus in, 212; people delight in jewels, 
256 ; people dark in skin, 255 ; prize of 
the East, 203; roads are good, 259; 
servants, 257; tools, 256; washing, 257; 
women, 259, 260; work on buildings, 
257. 

Industrial Missions, 80. 

Infant baptism, 354. 

Ingle, Mr., 149. 

Inland Sea, 122. 

Innai, 68. 

Ion Keith-Falconer, 295, 296. 

Islands of the Sea, 38. 

Ismailia, 298. 

Isthmus of Suez, 298. 

Iwamoto, Pres., 76. 



Jackson, Mrs., 225. 

Jaffa, 308, 312. 

Japan, 52; audiences, 58; baby car- 
riages, 110; bath, 65; beds, 65; black 
teeth, 59; books, 110; bowing, 109; 
bright faces, 59; chopsticks, 64, 65; 
Christianity banned, 96; Church of 
Christ, 100 ; clogs, 109 ; destined to be- 
come Christian, 62; dress, 108; Dutch 
in, 105; earthquakes, 78; Embassies to 
America, 98; first convert, 80; food, 64; 
Fox-god, 170; government, 53; horses, 
107; hotels, 64; houses, 65, 71, 107; 
Imperial University, 77; jinrickshas, 
67 ; labor-saving machines, 107 ; live in 
villages, 71; money, 71; not yet Chris- 
tian, 61; opened, 54, 96; people, 52; 
persecution, 103, 104; police, 108; 
progress, 77 ; progress of Gospel, 71, 99, 
106; Catholics in, 99; shoes removed, 
110; sitting posture, 107; smoking, 64; 
Sunday in, 56; tea-drinking, 64; a 
Western nation, 111 ; women grow old 
young, 59; Y. M. C. A. in, 81. 

Java, 41. 

Jericho, 321. 

Jerusalem, 315, 321. 

Jesuits, 102, 158. 

Jewett, Dr.,, 252. 

Jewish opposition to the Gospel, 318. 

Jinricksha, 51. 

John, Dr., 148, 149. 

Johnson, John, 304, 305. 

Johnson, Miss Kate, 91. 

John of Mount Corvin, 167. 

Judson, Dr. and Mrs., 197. 

Judson, Miss Hattie L., 225. 



INDEX 



381 



Kiaiserwerth Deaconesses, 311, 317. 

Kali, 207, 228. 

Kamakura, 112. 

Kamehameha, 33. 

Kanakas, 277. 

Kedron, 320. 

Kerr, Dr., 120, 164. 

Kevorkian, Dr., 336, 340. 

Kiernander, 208. 

Kindness to missionaries, 130, 

Kingsbury, Dr., 271, 273. 

Kingsbury, Miss, 218. 

King's Daughters, 99. 

Kinsey, Miss, 223. 

Kissing, 325. 

Kobe, 112, 118. 

Kodak feared, 147. 

Korea, 115. 

Kozaki, Pres., 99, 117. 

Kublai Khan, 167. 

Kutub-Minar, 236. 

Kyoto, 98, 114. 

Large ingatherings, 249. 
Lawrence, Sir Henry, 234. 
Lawrence, Lord, 216. 
Life on a ship, 48. 
Lohr, Mrs., 218. 
Lone Star Mission, 252. 
Loomis, Mr., 90, 121. 
Lord's Supper, 289, 290. 
Louvre, the, 360. 
Love, the, 131. 
Losing a day, 45. 
Lowry, Dr., 155. 
Lucknow, 233. 
Ludbrook, Dr., 282. 
Lu Hoh, 143, 146. 
Luke, 40. 
Lyon, D. W., 120. 
Lyon, Miss, 141, 176. 



Macao, 163. 

Macklin, Dr. W. E., 91, 137, 144, 172. 

Madagascar, 41. 

Madden, Col., 330. 

Madras, 245. 

Madura, 247, 251. 

Magarey, A. T., 268. 

Magarey, Dr. S. J., 268. 

Magarey, Thomas, 268. 

Mahoba, 227. 

Main, Dr., 120, 162. 

Mandarins, 160, 161, 192. 

Mangan, Miss, 313. 

Mansell, Pres., 234. 

Marathon, 350. 

Martyn, Henry, 214. 

Mars' Hill, 349. 

Maston, A. B., 281. 

McAU, Dr.) 83, 360. 



McCaleb, J. M., 75, 93. 

McClean, F., 280. 

McDonald, Mr., 209, 

McGavran, Mr. and Mrs., 221. 

McGregor, Dr., 120. 

McKenzie, Dr., 159. 

Medical School in Agra, 239. 

Medical Missions in India, 215. 

Medical work in Nankin, 173. 

Medical work conciliates, 138. 

Mediterranean, the, 308. 

Meigs, Pres., 139, 172, 177. 

Meiji-Jo-Gakko, 94. 

Melbourne, 270, 283. 

Memorials in Cawnpore, 233. 

Memorial chapel, 69. 

Memorial hospital, 173. 

Mesopotamia, 345. 

Methodists in Italy, 352. 

Middle Kingdom, the, 161. 

Mikado, the. 53, 115. 

Mikkelsen, O. C, 354. 

Miller, Drs., 218. 

Miller, Miss Alice, 67, 76, 94. 

Miller, Principal, 245. 

Ming Tombs, 159. 

Ministry, an educated, 274, 291. 

Mission Press, 235, 311. 

Missionary Conference, 78, 79; mission- 
ary methods, 83. 

Missionaries: character of, 122, 178, 370; 
cursed, 311; in China, 169; joyous, 19; 
on all ships, 17; trials of, 371; way 
they live, 377. 

Missionary Review, 175. 

Missions drawing people together, 373. 

Missions in America/ 13. 

Missions in Benares, 231. 

Missions in Palestine difficult, 318. 

Mississippi, the, 13. 

Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., 222, 223. 

Mohammedan University, 304. 

Mahmud of Ghazni, 203. 

Moghuls, the, 204, 239. 

Molland, C. E., 152, 172, 176. 

Monkey Temple, 228. 

Moore, Paul, 362. 

Moore, W. T., 10, 365. 

Moravian Leper Asylum, 317. 

Morris, John, 281. 

Morrison, Robert, 163, 168. 

Moslem opposition to the Gospel, 318 

Mosque of Omar, 317, 319. 

Mott, J. R., 245, 264. 

Mount Healthy, 9, 367. 

Mount of Olives, 326. 

Mungeli, 220. 

Murdock, Dr., 245. 

Murray, William, 157. 

Museum in Gizeh, 304. 

Mutiny, the Sepoy, 205. 

"My Indian Bird," 199. 



382 



INDEX 



Nagasaki, 104. 

Nagasaki Bay, 123. 

Nana Sahib, 232. 

Nankin, 136, 172; College, 174; Treaty, 

169; University, 152. 
Nara, 118. 
Narbadda, 226. 

Nations about the Mediterranean, 328. 
Native feast in Bilaspur, a, 219. 
Need the Gospel: all do, 369. 
Neesima, 88, 115, 116. 
Nellore, 244. 

Nestorian Monument, 166. 
Nevius, Dr., 154. 
New Guinea, 41. 
New Hebrides, 40. 
Ni, Pastor, 127. 
Nicholson, Gen., 234. 
Nicomedia, 334. 
Night in a temple, 140. 
Nikko, 64, 65, 66. 
Nile, the, 301, 306. 
North African Mission, 305. 
North of Japan, 63. 
Norway, trip to, 355; Norwegians, 357; 

religion of, 356 ; peerless listeners, 356. 

Oldham, Miss, 93. 

Obookiah, 23, 26. 

"Oceana," 47. 

Opium, 132, 171. 

Orphanage in Damoh, 221. 

Osaka, 117. 

" Our Position and Mission," 277. 

Our Young Folks, 11. 

Outram, Gen., 234. 

F*aris, 360. 

Pacific Christian, 12. 

Palestine: all events located, 323; Expo- 
sition Fund, 320; Jews in poor, 324; 
many races in, 325; population of, 326. 

Pappenburg, 123. 

"Paradise of the Pacific," 37. 

Parker, E. W., 250. 

Parsees, 242. 

Parthenon, 350. 

Passports, 63, 67. 

Paton, Dr., 40. 

Patriarch of Maronites, 311. 

Patterson, Dr., 322. 

Peacock Throne, the, 204, 236. 

Pearl Mosque, 238. 

Peiho, the, 154. 

Peking, 157; University, 155. 

Penang, 196. 

Perry, Com., 50, 54. 

Persecution in China, 166. 

Pharaoh, 299. 

Fharos, the, 305. 

Place of Wailing, 319. 

Pnyx, the, 350. 



Poona, 242, 243. 

Pope and Emperor, 168. 

Population of the West, 14. 

Port Said, 308. 

Post, Dr., 311. 

Portugal, 205; Portuguese, the, 102, 196. 

Preaching, 83, 134. 

Preachers in Norway, 356. 

Presbyterian College, 78; missionaries, 

311; press, 128. 
Preussen, the, 193. 
Princess Ruth, 33. 
Prison, 117. 

Property destroyed in Turkey, 339. 
Protestants in Japan, 99. 
Public domain, 271. 
Pyramids, the, 300, 301. 

Quarantine, 310. 

Rajah of Tanjore, 213. 

Railways: in China, 154; in Japan, 51; 
in Palestine, 314. 

Ramabai, Pandita, 242. 

Rambo, W. E., 221. 

Rameses, 299. 

Rangoon, 197. 

Raphael's room, 352. 

Rapkin, Geo., 263. 

Rats eaten in Canton, 164. 

Reception in Shanghai, 128. 

Reciprocity, 189. 

Red Sea, the, 296. 

Reid College, 235. 

Reid, Gilbert, 156. 

Religious establishment in Jerusalem, 315. 

Republic of Formosa, 120. 

Residency, the, 234. 

Results of missions, 370 

Review of the Times, the, 161, 175. 

Ricci, Matteo, 167. 

Richard, Timothy, 154, 156. 

Rioch, Miss, 75, 93. 

Riot, a, 150, 151. 

Ritualism, 318. 

Road to Peking, 155. 

Robert College, 335, 347. 

Roberts, Dr., 160. 

Robinson, Miss Sue's grave, 226. 

Rome, mostly modern, 352; famous build- 
ings in, 352. 

Rosetta Stone, 304. 

Salt Lake,, 11, 14. 
Salvation Army, 292, 314. 
Sandwich Islands, 30. 
San Francisco, 14, 17. 
Santa Cruz, 12. 
Sargent, Bishop, 247. 
Savage Island, 40. 

Saw, Mr. and Mrs., 119, 140, 146, 147, 
172, 175. 



INDEX 



383 



St John's College, 129, 240. 

St. John Lateran, 352. 

St. Louis, 10, 11. 

St. Peter's, 352. 

St. Sophia, 344. 

Schools in Alexandria, 305. 

School in Peking for the blind, 157. 

Schools in Egypt, 382. 

Schools in India, 215. 

Schools in Japan, 85. 

School of Mines, 284. 

School in Nankin, 138. 

Schwartz, C. F., 246, 313. 

Scott, Miss, 79, 93. 

Seudder, Dr. H. M., 250. 

Scudder, Dr. John, 249. 

Sea of Japan, 69. 

Sea of Marmora, 331. 

Selby, Isaac, 278. 

Self-support in Egypt, 303. 

Sepoy Mutiny, 232. 

Serampore, 210. 

Services, aboard ship, 45, 293; in Bilas- 

pur, 219; in Delhi, 237. 
Shakespeare, quoted, 361. 
Shah Jehan, 239. 

Shanghai, 123, 172 ; influence of, 173. 
Shantung, 154. 
Sheffield, Dr., 159. 
Shinto temple, 67. 
Shintoism, 89. 

Shishmanian, Mr. and Mrs., 332, 335. 
Shiva, emblems of, 230 
Shogun, the, 53, 115. 
Shonai, 70, 92. 
Siam, 196. 
Sicawei, 129. 
Sikandra, 238. 
Sistine Chapel, 352. 
Singapore, 193. 
"Slowly, slowly go," 143. 
Smith, Mr. and Mrs. G. T., 69, 90. 
Smither, A. C, 12. 
Smith, A. D., 263, 267. 
Smith, Dr. S. F., 252. 
Smyrna, 330. 
Socotra, 295. 
Southport, 365. 
South Seas, societies in, 40. 
Southern Cross, 264. 
Sphinx, the, 301. 
Spies in Constantinople, 345. 
Spring, E. H., 364. 
Squeezing, 73. 
Stanley, Mr., 155. 
Statistics, of Catholics in China, 168; of 

work in India, 215. 
Stevens, Dr., 93. 
Stevens, E. S., 75, 93. 
Stileman, Lieut., 36. 
Suez Canal, 297. 
Sultan of Johore's palace, 195. 
Sunday, none in the pagan world, 59. 



Sunday-schools, in Japan, 57; and wo- 
man's meetings, 84. 

Superstitions in China, 135. 

Sydney, 270. 

Sydney Harbor, 272. 

Syrian Christians, 212; Protestant Col- 
lege, 311. 

Syria, stations in, 311. 

Swan, Dr. J. M., 120, 162, 164. 

Switzerland, 353. 

Taj Mahal, 204, 238. 

Talitha Kumi, 317. 

Talking with the people, 87. 

Tanjore, 246. 

Taoism, 166. 

Tartars, 186. 

Taylor, J. Hudson, 124. 

Tea, 184. 

Tea houses, 134. 

Tel-El-Kebir, 299. 

Temperance meeting, 275. 

Temple area, 319. 

Temples in Nankin, 141; in Southern 
India, 246. 

Thacldeits, 23. 

Thoburn, Bishop, 249. 

Thoburn, Miss, 235. 

Thomas, the Apostle, 166. 

Thompson, Miss, 225. 

Tibet, 153. 

Tientsin, 154, 159; treaty of, 169. 

Timour, 204. 

Tinnevelly, 247, 251. 

Todd, E. M., 366. 

Tokyo, 93, 112. 

Tombs of the Caliphs, 304. 

Trampling on the Cross, 101, 105. 

Trichinopoly, 246. 

Troas, 331. 

Tsungming, 131. 

Tungchau, 135. 

Tung-cho, 159. 

Turk, the, a leech, 346; a savage, 344; 
in Europe, 344. 

Turkish missions, 336 ; first baptism, 336 ; 
tracts in, 336. 

Turkish government, 326, 327. 

Turkish officials, 332; misrule, 334; oppo- 
sition to missions, 332. 

Tyre, 328. 

United Presbyterians, 301, 302, 311. 
Unley Church, 266. 
Utah, 12. 

"Valentine, Dr., 238. 
Vancouver, George, 30. 
Vatican, the, 352. 
Verbeek, Dr., 80, 97. 
Verco, Dr., 269, 287. 
Versey, J. H., 365. 



384 



INDEX 



Victoria Bible School, 276. 

Victoria Missionary Conference, 275. 

Visiting the fields expedient, 375. 

Waldenses, the, 353. 

Wallace, Lew, testimony of, 340. 

Ware, Mr. and Mrs., 123, 131, 172, 176. 

Warren, Dr. and Mrs., 282. 

Washburn, Dr., 247. 

Watchmen in China, 135. 

Watson, Dr., 302. 

Wedding feast, a, 141. 

Weedon, W. C, 29, 37, 43. 

Well of the Ear-ring, 229. 

Well of Knowledge, 229. 

West, the, 13. 

West London Tabernacle, 361. 

Western men in the East, 372. 

Whangpoo River, 123. 

Wharton, Mr., 224, 254. 

Whateley, Miss, 303. 

Wheelbarrows, 133. 

Wheeler, Dr., 316. 

Wheeler, Gen., 232. 

White, J. C, 209. 

Whittier quoted, 234. 



Wilder, E. P., 243. 

Williams, Mr. and Mrs. E. T., 139, 140, 

172, 175, 176. 
Williams', Carrie Loos, memorial, 172. 
Women and the Gospel, 374; in heathen 

lands, 374; in Egypt, 300; inferior, 

325 ; in Japan, 88. 
Woosung, 131. 
Workers needed, 373. 
World's Student Christian Federation,. 

264. 
Wu, Empress, 166. 
Wuchang, 148. 
Wuhu, 152, 173. 

Xavier, Francis, 101, 167, 196, 212, 213. 

"Yangtsze, the, 123. 
Yokohama, 49, 90, 113. 
Y. M. C. A., 99. 
Yu-Ho-Tsz, 144, 173, 175. 

Ziegenbalg, 213. 

Zoan, 299. 

Zoological Gardens, 281. 



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